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You're almost certainly limited by your own upstream bandwidth, so the service won't make a difference. 5GB a day is ~450 k/sec which is a pretty decent upload speed in America. 40 gigs is just a lot of data. Are you sure it is all worth backing up? A program like WinDirStat can help you figure out what's taking up so much room if you need help finding things to trim.
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Nov 23, 2014 04:21
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melon cat posted:A question about backing up my work in Adobe CS. I'm trying to use CrashPlan for backing up my work, but it's taking forever to upload my work to their cloud (there's ~40GB to backup). According to CrashPlan, it'll take 8 days to backup my files, most of which are work done in Adobe CS. Am I better off biting the bullet and just upgrading to Adobe Creative Cloud and using their cloud's backup service? In the meantime, could you just use a free service like Dropbox (2GB free) or OneDrive (15 GB free), and keep your active files there? Presuming that some of that 40GB is archived material, so maybe that isn't a workable suggestion. CrashPlan is great, but I'm working on a 1.1 TB initial backup, and yeah, it takes a while. If you want backups now and you're willing to spend a little money, I'd say maybe get an external hard drive. Finding something > 40GB for cheap ought to be easy.
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Nov 23, 2014 11:27
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melon cat posted:A question about backing up my work in Adobe CS. I'm trying to use CrashPlan for backing up my work, but it's taking forever to upload my work to their cloud (there's ~40GB to backup). According to CrashPlan, it'll take 8 days to backup my files, most of which are work done in Adobe CS. Am I better off biting the bullet and just upgrading to Adobe Creative Cloud and using their cloud's backup service? I use CrashPlan and love it. When I switched over, I elected to use their Seeded Backup option to offset the huge initial upload. I'd shy away from Creative Cloud, especially if it's your livelyhood; it's always best to own your own data and Creative Cloud isn't, um, the best example of a reliable cloud service out there.
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Nov 24, 2014 01:38
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I use Dropbox and it works pretty well.  You can get 1 TB of space for $10/mo, and it's pretty drat fast in my experience. If you leave your computer running over night it'll probably churn through the 40 gigs.Manky posted:If you want backups now and you're willing to spend a little money, I'd say maybe get an external hard drive. Finding something > 40GB for cheap ought to be easy. Agreed with this. I use Dropbox, but I also dump everything in my work folder onto an external drive once a month and toss it in my fire safe. Whatever you do, don't use Carbonite. We used it at my old job and it was the biggest piece of poo poo in the world.
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Nov 24, 2014 19:25
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Manky posted:In the meantime, could you just use a free service like Dropbox (2GB free) or OneDrive (15 GB free), and keep your active files there? Presuming that some of that 40GB is archived material, so maybe that isn't a workable suggestion. CrashPlan is great, but I'm working on a 1.1 TB initial backup, and yeah, it takes a while. Kedo- thanks for the warning about Carbonite. I was undecided about them, so it's nice to hear some firsthand experiences about them. melon cat fucked around with this message at 00:39 on Feb 5, 2024 |
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Nov 24, 2014 20:09
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melon cat posted:I thought of using Dropbox, but CrashPlan seems to have better reviews (feel free to prove me wrong, though). As for the external HDD option- I had two of them (Western Digital brand) die on me in less than 2 years. The 2nd one was even the replacement one WD sent out to me! I don't want to risk it a third time, unless there's an external HDD that's proven to be super-reliable. Well, I use a combination of Dropbox and Crashplan both personally and in the small business I'm doing work for. They have slightly different purposes in my mind. Dropbox I basically treat as a shared folder. There is some junk archived there, but the reason I'm in and out of it every day is either a) sharing files between computers / mobile devices or b) accessing work files. It's ideal for files you need to work on actively and have revisions saved right away. Crashplan is the best set it and forget it solution. Use it to backup to the cloud, a hard drive, and another computer on the network if you want. And it is way better than Carbonite. If I'm looking at the Crashplan application or website, that means something went wrong. If I'm in Dropbox, it means I'm working on something. That's some bad luck with HDDs. I hear good things about Seagates.
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Nov 25, 2014 01:00
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Manky posted:Well, I use a combination of Dropbox and Crashplan both personally and in the small business I'm doing work for. They have slightly different purposes in my mind. Dropbox I basically treat as a shared folder. This is the key thing-- Dropbox is a file-sharing service, and Crashplan is an automated set-and-forget backup service. Both can be used for the other, but they focus on & excel at different things.
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Nov 25, 2014 02:58
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OmanyteJackson posted:For any illustrators or designers, how much do you usually charge for cover art and how do you get that number? For what? For books, I charge 300-500$ but that's for self publishers and small press.
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Nov 25, 2014 13:08
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Travakian posted:This is the key thing-- Dropbox is a file-sharing service, and Crashplan is an automated set-and-forget backup service. Both can be used for the other, but they focus on & excel at different things. Yeah, this. I mean, if you wanna do backups The Best Way, have 3 backups: an onsite backup, another onsite backup of that backup in case the first one fucks up, and a third offsite, ideally versioned so you can restore from different points in time.
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Nov 25, 2014 15:38
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Would a Surface Pro 3 have enough pressure sensitivity to where I could use it to master digital painting? I own a Wacom Bamboo, but as much as I practice I still have a hell of a time not seeing where my pen falls. I'm thinking of buying a Cintiq, but money's a factor and my computer's just outdated enough to where I probably won't get the full effect of a Cintiq.
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Nov 30, 2014 21:38
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CloseFriend posted:Would a Surface Pro 3 have enough pressure sensitivity to where I could use it to master digital painting? I own a Wacom Bamboo, but as much as I practice I still have a hell of a time not seeing where my pen falls. I'm thinking of buying a Cintiq, but money's a factor and my computer's just outdated enough to where I probably won't get the full effect of a Cintiq. I've heard good things about the surface pro 2. Though I'm not sure it's going to beat out a reg PC + tablet. Someone in one of the art threads got a surface pro 3 and posted about their experiences it a few months ago if someone with search wants to pull that up. Though you have a few other options as well: Monoprice: http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=113&cp_id=11314&cs_id=1131401&p_id=10707&seq=1&format=2 Cost: $379.99 Yiynova: http://www.amazon.com/Yiynova-MSP19...ords=yiynova+19 Cost: $499.00 I use the 19" Yiynova myself and like it a great deal. It's pretty responsive (uc logic drivers are loving solid) and works great in Photoshop and Manga Studio 5. No promises for any other painting programs like Corel or ArtRage as I don't use those but I'm sure someone out there has. So see if you can find a review that pertains to the software you are planning on using. But note that any tablet is going to have pros and cons so before you sink any money in this do a lot of research. For instance, the 19" Yiynova is pretty great for the money but the 22 Yiynova was a piece of crap for almost twice the price of the smaller one on release. They have a V3 now so it might be better now but just keep in mind that even companies that make good products will sometimes also make bad ones. Only trust info about the specific model you are buying. Monoprice is cheapest and has the same drivers as the yiynova. I've heard it has some quirks, but nothing that can't be worked around. Also if your computer is old and you decide that you don't want to go with the surface pro, you can still get a good tablet + a new computer for under the price of a cintiq. Though I think if the most intensive thing you are doing is painting in Photoshop, what you got is probably going to be fine unless it's really ancient. I'd worry more about computer specs if you were planning to do stuff with Maya or any other 3D software. If you do want to upgrade your comp though (600-800 can get you a reasonable setup easy) there is a thread for building pcs here: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3671266 Only thing I'd be firm about, is that a Cintiq is probably not the most efficient use of money for you at this point. There are plenty of good enough alternatives, and that is something you can always buy later once you are making good money off your art. JuniperCake fucked around with this message at 03:43 on Dec 1, 2014 |
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Dec 1, 2014 02:56
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I posted this in the Business thread, but looking over it it seems kind of dead. Thought I'd try here: I was dumb and did freelance design work for a company for years with no contract. I know now with hindsight it was stupid, but at the time I was young and just thrilled to be getting money. Anyway, they eventually stopped using me and started using another designer (without telling me haha) Now they want me to send them native files of work I've done for them in the past. We never worked out who owned what, and I don't want to just hand over all the work I've done for them to reprint and make money off of. Am I in the right to basically say "gently caress you pay me" (in nicer terms, of course)? They'll probably raise a stink, but since I have all the working files I don't know what they can do about it. Unless there is some legal thing I'm not aware of.
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Dec 1, 2014 20:26
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Sure you can. The risk is: Is this a big enough company that they would try to take legal action against you, and are you comfortable possibly burning this bridge?
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Dec 1, 2014 20:35
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The Dave posted:Sure you can. The risk is: Is this a big enough company that they would try to take legal action against you, and are you comfortable possibly burning this bridge? Yeah that's what is giving me pause haha. They're certainly not some mom and pop shop, that's for sure. They could be assholes if they wanted to be. I'm just going to ask for money, but not be a jerk about it. They really should pay me, for my time digging files out of my archive and for my bandwidth uploading the stuff.
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Dec 1, 2014 22:00
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triplexpac posted:Yeah that's what is giving me pause haha. They're certainly not some mom and pop shop, that's for sure. They could be assholes if they wanted to be. Do you charge more per hour than a lawyer? Didn't think so. They're not going to sue.
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Dec 1, 2014 22:23
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CloseFriend posted:Would a Surface Pro 3 have enough pressure sensitivity to where I could use it to master digital painting? I own a Wacom Bamboo, but as much as I practice I still have a hell of a time not seeing where my pen falls. I'm thinking of buying a Cintiq, but money's a factor and my computer's just outdated enough to where I probably won't get the full effect of a Cintiq. Don't know about the Surface Pro, but I've never regretted my Cintiq. It's not even one of the new ones, I just got the 12 inch and it was the best thing I did. If you've got at least 4 GB of RAM on your PC, you should be fine for most things involving Photoshop.
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Dec 1, 2014 22:27
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CloseFriend posted:Would a Surface Pro 3 have enough pressure sensitivity to where I could use it to master digital painting? I own a Wacom Bamboo, but as much as I practice I still have a hell of a time not seeing where my pen falls. I'm thinking of buying a Cintiq, but money's a factor and my computer's just outdated enough to where I probably won't get the full effect of a Cintiq. 30 seconds of Google tells me Surface Pro 3 is made with Wacom technology and has 1024 levels of sensitivity, comparable to Wacom Intuos. Did you see different? Admittedly I didn't look real hard.
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Dec 1, 2014 22:29
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NancyPants posted:30 seconds of Google tells me Surface Pro 3 is made with Wacom technology and has 1024 levels of sensitivity, comparable to Wacom Intuos. Did you see different? Admittedly I didn't look real hard. It's not. It has an N-Trig based stylus, not Wacom. The Surface Pro 1 and 2 are Wacom-based.
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Dec 1, 2014 22:38
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Thanks for the info, fellas. At the moment, I'm leaning towards a Surface Pro 2, because as weird as it sounds, I really want to do plein air digital painting, so my preference is portability. For the price, though, I might just hit up Monoprice or Yiynova instead and just live with not traveling with it. Still, thanks, all of you! This really helps!NancyPants posted:30 seconds of Google tells me Surface Pro 3 is made with Wacom technology and has 1024 levels of sensitivity, comparable to Wacom Intuos. Did you see different? Admittedly I didn't look real hard.
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Dec 2, 2014 07:21
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He should have done more than 30 seconds of searching because that's not true, per neonnoodle's post.
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Dec 3, 2014 01:15
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Yip Yips posted:He should have done more than 30 seconds of searching because that's not true, per neonnoodle's post. Which is why I asked if anyone saw different
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Dec 3, 2014 13:37
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It's cool. I didn't mean for it to be a "what an idiot" thing. Just wanted to make sure he saw the post about it being ntrig. My b.
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Dec 4, 2014 01:53
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Does anybody know a good middle-range brand of watercolors that are fade resistant? I've been trying to find that info on the internet, but it's been like trying to pull teeth so far. Any suggestions/recommendations are well appreciated.
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Dec 9, 2014 18:23
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I want to be better at Lightroom. Is there a good website/video series/book that would help me with file management tricks and some light photo editing?
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Dec 9, 2014 18:31
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EagerSleeper posted:Does anybody know a good middle-range brand of watercolors that are fade resistant? I've been trying to find that info on the internet, but it's been like trying to pull teeth so far. Well there are two things to look for in good watercolor. You want artist grade, not student grade (more pigment, less filler), and you want a color with a high lightfastness rating (Listed as ASTM on the tube). The best ratings are I and II and you should avoid anything III or lower if you are concerned about fading. Lightfastness usually depends on the pigment more than brand and some pigments are notorious for being especially prone to fading. For instance Alizarin Crimson while pretty, tends to fade quickly, so does Cochineal (the traditional crushed up beetle shell red) and any kind of paint based on dyes. Heavy metals like cadmiums are almost eternal, but are also more expensive and probably wont fit your price requirements. So in my opinion, I think you are best off buying the cheaper but most lightfast options from the better quality brands like Daniel Smith or Winsor Newton. Some store artist grades can be pretty good too, I've had good luck with Utretcht brand. Ultramarine Blue for instance is a relatively inexpensive color now, is a beautiful blue, and is I in lightfastness. Quinacridone colors are also very good and often cheaper than Cadmiums for your red. Maybe you'll have to buy one or two of an expensive paint (to get a good purple possibly), but if you are careful and look at what you are buying you can get some good paint for 7-9 dollars a tube. Look for sales and abuse coupons too. Artstores like to give out those 40-60% coupons so use those if you have to buy an expensive color. Also try to look up pigments if you can because paint companies don't always use the same pigments (or mix of them) for the same colors. But this stuff is standardized and each paint tube should have the pigments listed on the back somewhere, like PR 209 or PY 43. If those numbers match between two tubes, its the same pigment, otherwise it's not regardless of what they name the thing. This'll save you any unpleasant surprises if you are switching brands and are searching for a particular color. JuniperCake fucked around with this message at 06:41 on Dec 10, 2014 |
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Dec 10, 2014 06:29
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JuniperCake posted:Well there are two things to look for in good watercolor. You want artist grade, not student grade (more pigment, less filler), and you want a color with a high lightfastness rating (Listed as ASTM on the tube). The best ratings are I and II and you should avoid anything III or lower if you are concerned about fading. Thank you! It's the red colors that I've had the most problems with, and I'll try and look into those brands and see what they offer. 
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Dec 10, 2014 17:12
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Adobe After Effects question. How do I improve a moving object's framerate? I'm creating a splash screen for a logo. Vector objects were imported from an Illustrator .AI file. And the objects simply slide in from the slides of the screen, but the output video seems so... choppy. It's just not smooth. How do you smooth out your animations in AE? And my objects appear to be slightly blurry, despite the fact that I've checked the 'Constantly Rasterize' option. As for the HDD back-up question I asked previously- I ended up going with CrashPlan. Their prices seem reasonable, and I'm pretty happy with the free trial, so far. Thanks to all of you who commented on that discussion. melon cat fucked around with this message at 23:14 on Dec 12, 2014 |
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Dec 12, 2014 22:51
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melon cat posted:Adobe After Effects question. Try enabling motion blur. Also, what framerate is the project you're working in? How long is the animation itself?
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Dec 12, 2014 23:14
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Travakian posted:Try enabling motion blur. Also, what framerate is the project you're working in? How long is the animation itself?
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Dec 13, 2014 08:20
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What's a great, pocket-sized, extremely durable sketchbook that will lie flat when open? I've traditionally done a lot of my sketching in Moleskines, but I wish I could just open the thing up on a table and the pages wouldn't keep trying to close on me. Spiral bound is about all that comes to mind, but spirals always get mangled after a few weeks of being shoved into pockets or tossed into a messy bag. Any ideas?
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Dec 15, 2014 22:59
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kedo posted:What's a great, pocket-sized, extremely durable sketchbook that will lie flat when open? I've traditionally done a lot of my sketching in Moleskines, but I wish I could just open the thing up on a table and the pages wouldn't keep trying to close on me. I haven't used them personally, but you might want something like Field Notes. The bindings look pretty flexible, so you may be able to repeatedly bend and unbend them as needed without much worry. I'm sure someone out there makes similar bindings for cheaper if you need it.
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Dec 15, 2014 23:03
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Anyone got any tips on how to organize fonts? Not necessarily software, but maybe some tips on how to look over your collection at a glance. I have far too many.
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Dec 15, 2014 23:40
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ravenkult posted:Anyone got any tips on how to organize fonts? Not necessarily software, but maybe some tips on how to look over your collection at a glance. I have far too many. I just use Font Book, the built in font management tool in OS X. I have a bunch of custom collections I've made for organizational purposes. I like to organize them by style (eg. sans serif, serif, handwriting, etc), source (Google Fonts, TypeKit, MyFonts, etc), and sometimes even by client so I can always find what I'm looking for easily in the future. When I download a new font I toss it into each applicable collection. It's a pain to get things organized the first time, but as long as you're careful every time you install a new font it's easy and quick to maintain.
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Dec 16, 2014 00:02
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I'm on Windows unfortunately.
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Dec 16, 2014 00:03
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kedo posted:What's a great, pocket-sized, extremely durable sketchbook that will lie flat when open? I've traditionally done a lot of my sketching in Moleskines, but I wish I could just open the thing up on a table and the pages wouldn't keep trying to close on me. Get yourself a Circa/Rollabind disc bound journal. They're cool because you can remove and reorder pages without damaging anything.
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Dec 16, 2014 01:42
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neonnoodle posted:Get yourself a Circa/Rollabind disc bound journal. They're cool because you can remove and reorder pages without damaging anything. Do these really hold up? It seems like the pages would eventually loosen and fall out, on top of having to buy the special paper or spend $$$ for a compatible hole punch. Even something more modest like Staple's Arc notebooks seems kinda pricey.
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Dec 16, 2014 02:12
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neonnoodle posted:Get yourself a Circa/Rollabind disc bound journal. They're cool because you can remove and reorder pages without damaging anything. Yeah, I appreciate this recommendation but I've used/designed stuff using disc bindings before and I'm not a huge fan. As soon as a page gets the smallest of creases where the disc meets the paper, it will no longer fit snuggly and the paper can fall out. Also you really can't toss something like this in your pocket/bag without ripping half the discs out. They do lay flat, though.  dupersaurus posted:I haven't used them personally, but you might want something like Field Notes. The bindings look pretty flexible, so you may be able to repeatedly bend and unbend them as needed without much worry. I'm sure someone out there makes similar bindings for cheaper if you need it. I was thinking about those actually. Have you used them before? I'm wondering how solid the cover stock is.
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Dec 16, 2014 02:17
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kedo posted:I was thinking about those actually. Have you used them before? I'm wondering how solid the cover stock is. No, but I heard of them from the tested.com guys. They kinda look like what you get from the sketchbook project
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Dec 16, 2014 04:32
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Silly question, but here goes… I do my digital painting with a Wacom Bamboo tablet, one of the small ones with a usable surface of about 6" × 9". I have to hold the pen like if I'm writing. I'd like to hold the pen overhand—like I "should" when I'm drawing as opposed to writing—and do those long, smooth, gestural arcs, but I have no precision whatsoever doing it that way, especially when I'm working from a photograph. Is it worth practicing the overhand style for a Wacom tablet? I feel like for a surface that small, there's no point, and the pen doesn't feel as reliable. I'm still drawing with my whole arm as much as possible either way, but still. Any advice? EDIT: If it helps, I'm trying to do Proko's muscle-tracing exercises, and I noticed that I just can't get those nice, smooth arcs to delineate the muscle fibers. I'm certainly not trying to compare myself to Proko, but I'm trying to figure out how I can get that smoothness for myself. CloseFriend fucked around with this message at 09:09 on Dec 26, 2014 |
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Dec 16, 2014 07:43
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Eh, I have a Staples Arc notebook (the 5x7 hardbound one) and it goes in and out of my bag without anything slipping out -- I do think that it makes a difference whether you have the hardbound or softbound one because the bending of the softcover ones makes it easier for the discs to slip out. The hardcover ones keep everything pretty stable. CloseFriend, I think you're out of luck because the Wacom pen doesn't register very well from the sides of the stylus nib. It sucks because I also draw with an overhand grip with a pencil and the Wacom stylus doesn't allow for a similar method. Drawing in general kind of sucks on a tablet.
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Dec 16, 2014 19:20
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