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I've had to use a 40 inch 3/4 bar to undo filters before, granted they were on a semi truck but if you hand tighten them and lube the seal you should near enough be able to remove them by hand. And it had 3 of the fuckers.
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Dec 7, 2014 12:55
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PitViper posted:I have the same 3-jaw one posted above, and it has never failed. If you can get straight at the end of the filter, it'll crush the end to get a grip and then spin it right off. I've used the strap-and-handle type, and it's rare that there's space around the filter on most vehicles. Definitely not on anything I own, except the bike. Yep; the 3-jaw tool is definitely the way to go. I've had filters that screwdrivers ripped through and straps crushed. 3-jaw is lush  InitialDave posted:Because previous owner.
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Dec 7, 2014 13:06
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Semi-related, an old neighbour gave me a real forehead slapping moment when he told me to crack the filter loose before warming the engine up, then spin it back on by hand so it's piss-easy to remove with the engine hot and you don't burn your hand because somebody put the exhaust manifold <2cm from the filter.
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Dec 7, 2014 13:32
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pazrs posted:Why is everyone doing up their filters so tight? I can't remember the last time I couldn't undo one with my hand. I just did a filter that had tool marks on it. From installation.
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Dec 7, 2014 16:21
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Safety Dance posted:What's your favorite oil filter removal tool that's quickly available on Amazon? Whoever installed it on my jeep last made it his mission in life to make sure that oil filter never got removed. This thing owns pretty fuckin hard. Never had it not work and you can use it at weird angles. I'd put it at one of my best ROI tools. http://www.harborfreight.com/locking-oil-filter-wrench-66570.html
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Dec 7, 2014 20:24
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Not really a tool i guess but I ordered some of this stuff for the novas quarter window seals and door seals. http://www.amazon.com/einszett-9148...ber+rejuvenator I'll post back if it works like people say it does.
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Dec 7, 2014 23:09
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jammyozzy posted:Semi-related, an old neighbour gave me a real forehead slapping moment when he told me to crack the filter loose before warming the engine up, then spin it back on by hand so it's piss-easy to remove with the engine hot and you don't burn your hand because somebody put the exhaust manifold <2cm from the filter. You're supposed to do an oil change with the engine hot? 
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Dec 8, 2014 01:26
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InitialDave posted:Because previous owner. Also because OEM. I try every time but have never cracked a factory-installed Nissan filter (ie in for the first oil change).
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Dec 8, 2014 02:10
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QuarkMartial posted:You're supposed to do an oil change with the engine hot? Ideally a little warm so the oil flows out easily but not so hot that the oil is still all up in the head and such. I'm lazy and change my Jeep oil when it's cold though and it's not a big deal.
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Dec 8, 2014 02:15
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QuarkMartial posted:You're supposed to do an oil change with the engine hot? Only if you don't like having multiple layers of skin on the top of your hand. Otherwise waiting a few extra minutes for cold oil to drain is totally worth it.
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Dec 8, 2014 04:04
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I change mine when warm/hot. I give it about 10 minutes to cool off through as the oil pan threads tend to be a very very tight fit.
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Dec 8, 2014 04:44
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I've never understood that logic. Doesn't oil viscosity ratings and chemical magic mean the oil is thicker when hotter? 5 weight when cold, 30 weight when hot, for 5w30.
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Dec 8, 2014 05:45
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Hot oil is thinner, no matter what. The viscosity magic happens because straight 5w is thinner at whatever temperature than 30w. However, a 5w30 oil has the viscosity of a 5w when cold, but a 30w when hot. It doesn't magically get thicker when hot, but thins less when hot than a straight viscosity oil would. Cold and hot are specific temperatures, which should be available from the oil manufacturer and will be expressed as a viscosity measurement at whatever temperature °F/°C. Look up a viscosity chart for 5w, 30w, and a 5w30 from the same manufacturer, and it'll probably be clearer. edit: or see http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/viscosity-charts/ for a picture example. Or https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-super/mobil-super-synthetic#5W-20 has a comparison towards the bottom. For the Mobil oil, note that 0w20 and 5w20 have very similar viscosity measurements at 100°C (8.6 cSt vs 8.8 cSt) but the viscosity measurement at 40°C are quite different (44.9 cSt vs 49.6 cSt). The number before the W is the viscosity measured at 40°C, and the number after is the viscosity measured at 100°C PitViper fucked around with this message at 06:15 on Dec 8, 2014 |
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Dec 8, 2014 05:55
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I always do it hot because I figure more crap could be in solution and the very short dry start tolerances are better. No proof behind either but both make some sense.
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Dec 8, 2014 07:17
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Since the guy asking about filter tools mentioned a jeep, make sure you don't bash into the oil pressure sender with whatever tool you end up using, because they are tantalizingly close to the filter on some jeeps and break when touched with a filter wrench about like a pinto explodes when rearended by, oh, anything. Then you wonder why your oil pressure gauge doesn't work anymore and at some random point, what's left of the sender finishes breaking in half and unceremoniously paints the passenger side of your engine compartment in rust protectant while simultaneously lunching the entire bottom end because you no longer have an oil pressure gauge that works and don't realize you have zero oil pressure till some gets on the exhaust or it makes A Bad Noise.
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Dec 8, 2014 07:33
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Powershift posted:just about everything on the mack is either 10mm or 13mm, except for the stuff built to other standards like the oil lines and air lines and battery posts and stuff. Note for other US denizens : that would be because Facom is the french equivalent to Snap-On. Why those are on Aliexpress i don't know. Or why they are twice the price they should be.
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Dec 8, 2014 13:12
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kastein posted:Since the guy asking about filter tools mentioned a jeep, make sure you don't bash into the oil pressure sender with whatever tool you end up using, because they are tantalizingly close to the filter on some jeeps and break when touched with a filter wrench about like a pinto explodes when rearended by, oh, anything. My oil pressure slowly creeps up to 80 and doesn't respond to RPMs, so I need to get around to fixing the oil pressure sender anyway.
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Dec 8, 2014 15:45
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CarForumPoster posted:I always do it hot because I figure more crap could be in solution and the very short dry start tolerances are better. I do too, but this is kind of the biproduct of being in a mechanics' lineage, and the fact that I once had to chip Pennzoil out of a 4 banger in the late 80s. gently caress cold oil (and gently caress pennzoil).
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Dec 8, 2014 18:07
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SouthsideSaint posted:Only if you don't like having multiple layers of skin on the top of your hand. Otherwise waiting a few extra minutes for cold oil to drain is totally worth it. I now pull my oil drain plug wearing a Mechanix glove with a nitrile glove over top (its easier to put on than it sounds). The work glove keeps the heat away from my fingertips and the nitrile glove keeps the other glove from getting soaked with oil if I'm not quick enough. I started doing this after dropping the hot plug into an oil pan and having to fish it out bare handed, which was messy and uncomfortable but didn't injure me but I acknowledge that some engines (especially with turbochargers) can produce hotter oil. My high school auto shop teacher told us, among other reasons, that oil has detergents that keep crud in suspension but are designed to work best at operating temperature. Don't know if thats true but I've never changed cold oil because of it (and the better flow thing).
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Dec 8, 2014 22:00
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Cat Hatter posted:I now pull my oil drain plug wearing a Mechanix glove with a nitrile glove over top (its easier to put on than it sounds). The work glove keeps the heat away from my fingertips and the nitrile glove keeps the other glove from getting soaked with oil if I'm not quick enough. I started doing this after dropping the hot plug into an oil pan and having to fish it out bare handed, which was messy and uncomfortable but didn't injure me but I acknowledge that some engines (especially with turbochargers) can produce hotter oil. Yeah I wear nitrle gloves always and do it on a lift with a hot hot car. So I never do it any other way. But changing it cold isn't the most horrible thing to do to a car. Just imagine a 110degree day with a cavalier followed by a Subaru...you learn to not mind the burns...  true story before I got into fixing cars professionally I could feel it when someone touched the top of my right hand...not anymore Thanks Subaru...
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Dec 9, 2014 02:12
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SouthsideSaint posted:Yeah I wear nitrle gloves always and do it on a lift with a hot hot car. So I never do it any other way. But changing it cold isn't the most horrible thing to do to a car. Just imagine a 110degree day with a cavalier followed by a Subaru...you learn to not mind the burns... I dunno, that long thin filter (Valvoline VO23, dunno what other brands call it) on a ford windstar between the passenger frame rail and catcon is a nice touch. A nice, third degree, sizzling touch. It has been 12 years and that scar is still visible on my right wrist.
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Dec 9, 2014 03:31
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kastein posted:I dunno, that long thin filter (Valvoline VO23, dunno what other brands call it) on a ford windstar between the passenger frame rail and catcon is a nice touch. A nice, third degree, sizzling touch. yeah ive done that oil change on my parents winstar a few times and still have a nice burn across my knuckles from the last time....
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Dec 9, 2014 05:04
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Cat Hatter posted:I now pull my oil drain plug wearing a Mechanix glove with a nitrile glove over top (its easier to put on than it sounds). The work glove keeps the heat away from my fingertips and the nitrile glove keeps the other glove from getting soaked with oil if I'm not quick enough. I started doing this after dropping the hot plug into an oil pan and having to fish it out bare handed, which was messy and uncomfortable but didn't injure me but I acknowledge that some engines (especially with turbochargers) can produce hotter oil.
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Dec 9, 2014 18:19
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I don't use an extension on the ratchet, I just get it loose and then take it off by hand. I kind of like to get a little bit of warm oil on my hands every now and then. It makes me feel like a man.
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Dec 9, 2014 18:47
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InitialDave posted:Why on earth would you do it like this? Socket on an extension to remove the sump plug, fish it out the drain tub with a magnet if you drop it. No need to get your hands anywhere near it. Because its easier/faster to unscrew it with my fingers than with a socket, if my (ungloved at the time) fingers aren't overcome with heat at the exact moment I run out of threads then I'm less likely to drop it than having it on a socket, and I didn't have a magnet at the time (also, it sounds like Jeep Cherokees don't have as hot of oil as other cars). Now I do the double glove thing which keeps me from brushing against the exhaust that runs right behind the oil plug, insulates me from the plug itself, and keeps my hand cool when removing the nearly as hot oil filter. Also, I haven't used an open-top oil drain pan in over 5 years.
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Dec 9, 2014 19:55
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What Subaru are you burning your hands on? My 2001 Legacy is the easiest oil change I have ever done.
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Dec 9, 2014 20:05
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I have like, a million of these. Totally protects your finger tips, and lets you wash out the crap that will eventually soak into your gloves anyway.
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Dec 9, 2014 20:11
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thebigcow posted:What Subaru are you burning your hands on? My 2001 Legacy is the easiest oil change I have ever done. Probably the one where the oil filter requires snaking your arm through the exhaust system.
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Dec 10, 2014 00:51
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Safety Dance posted:What's your favorite oil filter removal tool that's quickly available on Amazon? Whoever installed it on my jeep last made it his mission in life to make sure that oil filter never got removed. I've had luck on smaller filters (up to Ford V8-size) with some bigass sort of Vise-Grips meant for pipe -- not the padded PVC/oil filter one I can find now, it has the same teeth as the regular pliers but with a big curved jaw. Though crushing it with a chain wrench is good too. Vise-Grip makes one of those, if you really want to gently caress it over. pazrs posted:Why is everyone doing up their filters so tight? I can't remember the last time I couldn't undo one with my hand. What's the opinion on those drain plug replacements that have a spring valve and a hose that connects? I liked the one I had on the Jeep, haven't bothered to get one for the car, because the Jeep was high enough to stand a gallon jug up under. The car, an open drain pan is less messy. I need to get some jackstands for oil changes. The cop car rides high enough that I can wriggle in under the driver's-side sill and do it without lifting it, but it's uncomfortable. I just realized that may have helped me when I had an MRI the other day -- I'm used to being in a confined space beating on things with a bigass hammer, the MRI's just somebody else doing the hammering. 
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Dec 10, 2014 02:25
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Delivery McGee posted:I need to get some jackstands for oil changes. The cop car rides high enough that I can wriggle in under the driver's-side sill and do it without lifting it, but it's uncomfortable. I just realized that may have helped me when I had an MRI the other day -- I'm used to being in a confined space beating on things with a bigass hammer, the MRI's just somebody else doing the hammering. Buy some ramps. Oil changes became a lot less of a pain in the rear end when I bought a pair of ramps.
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Dec 10, 2014 04:32
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Delivery McGee posted:What's the opinion on those drain plug replacements that have a spring valve and a hose that connects? I liked the one I had on the Jeep, haven't bothered to get one for the car, because the Jeep was high enough to stand a gallon jug up under. The car, an open drain pan is less messy. Don't lose the hose. I do oil changes on a million different types of equipment and trucks, and draining oil from a hose is by far easier and cleaner than doing it without. And the spring type is generally easier to deal with than, say, trying to balance two 7/8: wrenches to remove the cap from the stripped and rusted JIC fitting at the end of the hose (looking at you, Bobcat). Ideally I would like to see a drain cock with a ball valve (tee hee), and a hose. For filters it really depends on the layout of the engine. I have several different types of wrenches, and one that works great on one machine will have no leverage/won't even fit onto another.
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Dec 10, 2014 09:18
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InitialDave posted:Why on earth would you do it like this? Socket on an extension to remove the sump plug, fish it out the drain tub with a magnet if you drop it. No need to get your hands anywhere near it.  http://www.amazon.com/OTC-Drain-Plug-Magnetic-Remover/dp/B0054WI7CW You guys burning your wrists and arms need some Kevlar sleeves (ie the right tool for the job, all the majors like Matco etc sell them). They're ridiculously effective and under $50 usually. Cheap considering the absurd wounds they can prevent. They cover the front and back of your hands, too; fingers I can't help with.
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Dec 10, 2014 15:31
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Splizwarf posted:You guys burning your wrists and arms need some Kevlar sleeves (ie the right tool for the job, all the majors like Matco etc sell them). They're ridiculously effective and under $50 usually. Cheap considering the absurd wounds they can prevent. They cover the front and back of your hands, too; fingers I can't help with. I refuse to believe that Matco sells anything for under $50 
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Dec 10, 2014 16:27
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Buy some ramps. Oil changes became a lot less of a pain in the rear end when I bought a pair of ramps. Which ramps do people recommend? I looked at Rhino Ramps awhile back and it seems they changed the design for the worse recently, but the negative reviews was mostly people with bigass trucks. I'd be using these on a Subaru Impreza and Kia Sorento.
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Dec 10, 2014 17:06
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I had a set of Rhino Ramps (the big ones) break under the weight of the MS6 so they got returned.
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Dec 10, 2014 17:09
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I have a set of Rhino Ramps (older style without the big gaps everywhere) that I use regularly on my Mustang and my wife's CX-5. I've had no problems.
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Dec 10, 2014 18:31
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Rhyno posted:I had a set of Rhino Ramps (the big ones) break under the weight of the MS6 so they got returned. I had the same experience though with a heavier car.
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Dec 10, 2014 20:07
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Geoj posted:I refuse to believe that Matco sells anything for under $50 My last Matco tools cost $45 and $32. Brake spring prybar and hose pinchoff pliers.
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Dec 10, 2014 20:44
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Those sound like really made up names for tools. I'm watching you, Tommychu
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Dec 10, 2014 22:16
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I have an older set of Rhino Ramps I use and have had no problems with them. I do use a set of jackstands as safety, though, as I'd rather not end up crushed under my truck.
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Dec 11, 2014 01:40
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