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Borachon posted:Yes, but I've looked both online and at the local stores, and both say there are no Fuji X cameras locally. On the other hand, CostCo also seems to have Fuji X-series cameras online; I can check there locally, as well. There's not much too look at. If you are in NY, I can show you mine. Basically the ergonomic is slightly worse than NEX cameras due to small grip. So a thumb grip will help a lot. Fit and finish wise the fujis are better than the usually entry level stuff, even for the XA1. As for control layout difference between XE1 and XA/XM1,, the XE1 is better. Its every easy to go into manual mode. However if you are the kind of guy who switch between P, aperture-priority and shutter priority modes alot but doesn't touch M mode, then XA/XM1 layouts are faster. whatever7 fucked around with this message at 23:35 on Dec 8, 2014 |
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Dec 8, 2014 23:27
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whatever7 posted:There's not much too look at. If you are in NY, I can show you mine. If I was in NY, I expect finding someone that carried Fuji or Olympus mirrorless wouldn't be much of a problem. Regardless, thanks for the information on ergonomics; a thumb grip is basically a must whatever I get, since my hands are on the larger side.
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Dec 8, 2014 23:59
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Amazon Warehouse has 20% discount now, you can get a mint XM1 body for 259 ish. And it has good return policy. edit: actually 10% off for Fuji stuff. But after discount the prices are still very close to goon prices. Too bad Amazon charge tax now. You can pay with Chase Freedom or Discover card to get 5% back. whatever7 fucked around with this message at 02:05 on Dec 9, 2014 |
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Dec 9, 2014 01:54
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Amazon charges tax if they have a warehouse in your state. Unless this has changed, everything in my checkout has no tax added though.
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Dec 9, 2014 02:10
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iSheep posted:Amazon charges tax if they have a warehouse in your state. Unless this has changed, everything in my checkout has no tax added though. I read something about this the other day (I'm in FL, where they recently opened a warehouse), I think they list the tax but don't charge it, it's up to you to get it to the state or something. In theory I think you owe sales tax on out of state/overseas purchases (at least in Florida), hell if anyone ever actually pays it though.
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Dec 9, 2014 02:15
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Use tax, and apparently a lot of state governments have been cracking down on people not paying it.
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Dec 9, 2014 02:18
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 comparison I got my generic M-E mount helicoid adapter in the mail today. Build quality feels pretty solid, and it definitely opens up substantially closer shooting on rangefinder lenses. This is a comparison in minimum focal distance with the Russian 85mm f/2 (wide open) on it. P. cool and makes me want to give shooting adapted glass another whirl.
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Dec 9, 2014 21:57
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Speaking of adapters, I've been wanting to put my EF glass on my NEX-5n, but with support for image stabilization and aperture control. So that leads me to smart adapters, which are 300-400 bucks and if I am spending that much then I would just buy something else honestly. So I found this - http://www.aliexpress.com/store/pro...1854496180.html The two lenses I want to use are Tamron (24-70 2.8 and 70-200 2.8), giant on a NEX I realize, but this is really just for around the house and bullshit, not gigs. The official metabones version supports them, so I guess I can assume that they will be ok with this adapter. Do you think it will work if you all were to guess? I don't want an adapter that doesn't give me stabilization.
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Dec 10, 2014 01:30
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why not just buy an actual lens that will work for sure also this is why you shoulda gone with the pentax/nikon/m43/a7ii combo instead. IBIS all the way.
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Dec 10, 2014 03:37
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Considering how EF works, you only want a smart adapter anyway. I don't know if any of them actually support the IS/VC, but that'll work for actually using the lens at anything other than max aperture. Consider buying that adapter than upgrading to an A7II for serious use, if you really need the stabilization. edit: To clarify, EF is fully electronic instead of aperture lever and screw drive like Nikon F or Sony/Minolta Alpha, so to actually use the lens you need an electronic adapter. Karasu Tengu fucked around with this message at 03:49 on Dec 10, 2014 |
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Dec 10, 2014 03:42
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What are some good cheapo lenses to adapt to m43? I am seeing some neat looking soviet ones on eBay, but maybe I'll just hit up places like goodwill and see if they have any old cameras laying around.
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Dec 10, 2014 04:16
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takumar 35/3.5 is great, a lot of old 50's make good portrait lenses.
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Dec 10, 2014 08:04
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So after looking at the Samsung NX1, Sony a7S, and Panasonic GH4 for travel video + shots (in the city, possibly when dark), I think I've eliminated the NX1 on the basis of lens availability, and broken the tie between a7S and GH4 in favor of Sony, due to the better low-light performance and telling myself that I have the option of an a7II down the line if I end up getting really into it. Is this a sensible choice? Anything else I can second-guess myself on before pulling the trigger?
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Dec 10, 2014 08:19
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I'd wait for the II to become available
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Dec 10, 2014 10:51
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Doctor w-rw-rw- posted:So after looking at the Samsung NX1, Sony a7S, and Panasonic GH4 for travel video + shots (in the city, possibly when dark), I think I've eliminated the NX1 on the basis of lens availability, and broken the tie between a7S and GH4 in favor of Sony, due to the better low-light performance and telling myself that I have the option of an a7II down the line if I end up getting really into it. Is this a sensible choice? Anything else I can second-guess myself on before pulling the trigger? The a7II should be shipping out by Thursday, might as well wait a week or so for some reviews. Better yet, if you have the budget for an a7s, wait for the a9 or a7sII to be announced.
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Dec 10, 2014 11:03
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JHVH-1 posted:What are some good cheapo lenses to adapt to m43? I am seeing some neat looking soviet ones on eBay, but maybe I'll just hit up places like goodwill and see if they have any old cameras laying around. I just got a Helios 44M (58mm f/2.0) for $20 or so, seems really great.
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Dec 10, 2014 13:25
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Elliotw2 posted:Considering how EF works, you only want a smart adapter anyway. I don't know if any of them actually support the IS/VC, but that'll work for actually using the lens at anything other than max aperture. IBIS ain't gonna work too hot with non-Sony zooms though.
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Dec 10, 2014 14:05
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Pompous Rhombus posted:IBIS ain't gonna work too hot with non-Sony zooms though. Why won't it? The ibis in my full size Sony DSLR works fine on zooms. Just make sure you remember to set the focal length, and the camera probably will auto set for any chipped lens or smart adapter.
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Dec 10, 2014 16:16
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Elliotw2 posted:Why won't it? The ibis in my full size Sony DSLR works fine on zooms. Just make sure you remember to set the focal length, and the camera probably will auto set for any chipped lens or smart adapter. Yeah, but as you zoom, will the IBIS not lose its effectiveness, unless you keep manually changing it?
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Dec 10, 2014 16:39
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Prob depends on whether it's adapted. Isn't the FE spec open.
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Dec 10, 2014 17:27
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Pompous Rhombus posted:Yeah, but as you zoom, will the IBIS not lose its effectiveness, unless you keep manually changing it? It'll still work, though it'll be overcompensating at 70mm if you manually configured it for 300mm. For the EF and A adapters it won't be an issue, since they pass lens information to the camera anyway.
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Dec 10, 2014 17:30
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Doctor w-rw-rw- posted:So after looking at the Samsung NX1, Sony a7S, and Panasonic GH4 for travel video + shots (in the city, possibly when dark), I think I've eliminated the NX1 on the basis of lens availability, and broken the tie between a7S and GH4 in favor of Sony, due to the better low-light performance and telling myself that I have the option of an a7II down the line if I end up getting really into it. Is this a sensible choice? Anything else I can second-guess myself on before pulling the trigger? A7S hands down. I would wait a month or two if you can though, there is a good chance they will announce A7SII and the A9 after new years which will drop the A7S prices.
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Dec 10, 2014 17:54
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Went to Tennessee last month. It was a bit late ride the foliage scenic train but there was still a lot of things to see. Went inside Ruby Fall, they only let you stay in the main cave for exactly 90 seconds. Here is a panorama, hand held with the XF14.  Another bonus shot from the XF56, this lens is banana. 
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Dec 10, 2014 18:41
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keyframe posted:A7S hands down. I would wait a month or two if you can though, there is a good chance they will announce A7SII and the A9 after new years which will drop the A7S prices. I know Sony is crazy and all, but you think they're going to announce a successor 9 months after the A7S was announced, and 5 months after it became generally available? I'd actually be impressed if they had the balls.
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Dec 10, 2014 18:49
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It's kinda their thing, they release a new wave every 9-10 months.
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Dec 10, 2014 19:10
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An A7SII won't be coming for quite a while. The A7S is the best of its class for low light, period. Why would they replace it so soon? Autofocus performance upgrades aren't a huge thing for video considering most video is shot in manual focus. While the A7S doesn't have the fastest focus, it is good at focusing in light that normally kills AF systems. The A9 will probably be the regular A7 with better autofocus and weather sealing.
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Dec 10, 2014 20:39
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I want an APS-C version of the A7S. Think there's any chance of that happening?
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Dec 10, 2014 21:15
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deck posted:I know Sony is crazy and all, but you think they're going to announce a successor 9 months after the A7S was announced, and 5 months after it became generally available? Somebody out there will buy it. They can add a single feature upgrade to an existing model, call it something new and charge double. Then a bunch of people will go out and buy it right away and people who don't yet own one will buy it at full price because it is the new hotness. It might be a crazy idea, but I have decided that I am just not going to worry what else comes out and focus (haw haw) more on taking pictures. No more "upgrade path" thought mentality, just put some money on things like cheap lenses and adapters. (Then a year from now I'll probably start lusting after whatever is released by then).
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Dec 10, 2014 21:22
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That's really the best approach to take. I bought a NEX-F3 2 years ago and I still don't really feel the need to upgrade since this camera does everything I want fine already.
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Dec 10, 2014 21:25
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deck posted:I want an APS-C version of the A7S. Think there's any chance of that happening? You mean like making an APSC 5MP body? If Sony has the ball to do it they can get me back on E mount.
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Dec 10, 2014 21:59
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whatever7 posted:You mean like making an APSC 5MP body? If Sony has the ball to do it they can get me back on E mount. Caution: aimless rambling The ability to record native 4K would be nice, so I can't see it going below 11MP. So I guess it'd end up being more pixel-dense, which might hurt sensitivity. Then again, there's way more to sensitivity (low noise) than pixel site size, otherwise the full frame low-MP cameras of yore would be low-light monsters, and they're obviously not. Anyway, they kinda need to move in this direction to compete with the NX1. Which reminds me, backside illumination would be a possible A7S2 killer-feature, if they can cost-effectively fab that at full frame.
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Dec 10, 2014 23:59
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I do not see Sony trying to compress the A7s into an APS-C body. I expect a theoretical A7s II would focus more on noise reduction and recording 4k/60fps in body than anything else. The A7s already has the edge over both the GH4 and the NX1 thanks to it's insane light sensitivity, as well as better HDMI output than the NX1.
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Dec 11, 2014 00:09
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deck posted:Caution: aimless rambling the full frame low-MP cameras you see are also old as gently caress at this point, and were low light monsters for their time.
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Dec 11, 2014 01:47
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What's a good lens (or two) to start out with on an a7S? Should I just follow Wirecutter's suggestions? Any other good accessories that might help?
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Dec 11, 2014 04:33
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The 55-210 is poo poo garbage, I think the FE powerzoom is better though. Do consider just grabbing random-rear end MF/Nikon/Pentax lenses from KEH or a yard sale and an adapter for extra fun.
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Dec 11, 2014 04:38
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My friend has an A7S with the Zeiss 55mm f/1.8 and I thought it was pretty solid.
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Dec 11, 2014 05:34
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Okay, homing in on a couple of lens. I get that lower f numbers means a bigger aperture and thus more light, but since I haven't started shooting (I will soon), I don't have an intuitive understanding of what these will mean for my shots. How does the lower f-stop affect bokeh? Does the a7S's good performance at high ISO negate the benefits of lower f-stops? I've been very confused about f-stops, ISO, and focal length until very recently (I think I'm almost (?) grasping the basics) For a 35mm sensor, why would I want a 55mm lens? Doesn't that mean that everything would be slightly zoomed in (is that why I'd get it)? Here are the lenses I'm looking at (with the goal of getting one, or two if there's good reason to), along with the kind of pictures I'd want to be taking: Sony 55mm F1.8 Sonnar T* FE ZA Full Frame Prime Lens Amazon - $1000 example photo (with a7R) example photo (with a7R) Sony 35mm F2.8 Sonnar T* FE ZA Full Frame Prime Lens Amazon - $800 example photo (with a7S) example photo (with ?) Voigtlander Nokton 35mm f/1.2 II Aspherical Wide Angle Leica M Mount Lens - Black Amazon - $1200 without adapter example photo (with Fujifilm X-E1) Voigtlander Nokton 35mm f/1.4 Wide Angle Leica M Mount Lens - Black Amazon - $630 (normally $1000?) without adapter example photo (with a7S) example photo (with a7S, but 40mm f/1.4 --- Not sure if I should consider Sony SEL35F18 35mm f/1.8 Prime Fixed Lens (Amazon) - $400 ... is this even compatible with an a7S? No, right? Sony 35mm f/1.4G Wide Angle Prime Lens (Amazon) - $1100 - example photo (with a99 DSLR) - not compatible either, right? Sony FE 28-70mm F3.5-5.6 OSS Full-frame E-mount Zoom Lens (Sony) for starters? --- EDIT: Elliotw2 posted:The 55-210 is poo poo garbage, I think the FE powerzoom is better though. Do consider just grabbing random-rear end MF/Nikon/Pentax lenses from KEH or a yard sale and an adapter for extra fun. EDIT again: this? Doctor w-rw-rw- fucked around with this message at 10:27 on Dec 11, 2014 |
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Dec 11, 2014 10:04
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Doctor w-rw-rw- posted:How does the lower f-stop affect bokeh? Does the a7S's good performance at high ISO negate the benefits of lower f-stops? I've been very confused about f-stops, ISO, and focal length until very recently (I think I'm almost (?) grasping the basics) I'd skip the Voightlanders unless you are happy to lose autofocus. For Full Frame cameras, 50mm was considered the lens that matches your eye's field of view, hence its desireability as your only lens. (It was also the cheapest to manufacture and the easiest to get very sharp). It works very well as a walk around, all purpose lens .Some people prefer 35mm lenses as they can squeeze a bit more in Roughly speaking, you can say that an extra stop of good, high ISO is equivalent to a wider f-stop on a lens. The difference is that a higher ISO is never as good as a lower one (i.e. ISO 1600 may be pretty good on a spiffy new body, but I'd always prefer to shoot at ISO400 or lower, if I had the option). given the choice (i.e. the money), I would always get a faster lens.
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Dec 11, 2014 10:40
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A bigger aperture (a smaller f-stop number) lets in more light will give you a smaller depth of field and hence more of a blurred background (bokeh). That's not always something you want, there are photos where you may want more in the background in focus and in that case you'd want to use a smaller aperture. High ISO allows you to use smaller apertures and higher shutter speeds in low light but the tradeoff is more noise and less detail. It doesn't "negate" the benefit of large apertures, because you would turn the ISO down to compensate. Read Understanding Exposure because not to be rude, but it doesn't really sound like you quite understand the relationship between ISO, shutter speed and aperture and what they all affect. For focal length, the higher the number, the more "zoomed in" the field of view is. There is not really any correlation between focal length and the size of the sensor in terms of a "correct" one, but the size of the sensor does have an effect called the crop factor but that's not something you need to know just quite yet. The human eye is equivalent to about a 50mm focal length on a full-frame sensor, but that shouldn't really matter because it's more about the pictures you want to take.
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Dec 11, 2014 10:42
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Doctor w-rw-rw- posted:Okay, homing in on a couple of lens... I'm sure someone else can give you more detail, but put simply, a lower f number (or faster aperture) means a more shallow depth of field. And a more shallow depth of field means more of the background is thrown out of focus. The aesthetically pleasing out of focus area is bokeh. So by those pictures you posted, your main interests will be landscape and portraiture? Well for the skyline/cityscape photography you've linked, depth of field is less important, because you're focusing to infinity - there is no out of focus area. For portraits, 50mm or 55mm are popular because they're close to what the eye naturally sees, and they put you at a comfortable distance from your subject, longer and you get the ability to flatten more of the background elements into the image. Standing at the same distance, a wider lens would bring in more of the surroundings and provide context. It's a matter of personal taste. The A7 line's good ISO performance means you will get less noisey shots at high ISO. This will be useful to you if you're taking portraits at night because you won't have to slow your shutter down as much. Sharper images etc. You can google diagrams of depth of field, and there are also various lens simulators that will give you an idea of the same shot with different focal lengths. Hocus Pocus fucked around with this message at 11:03 on Dec 11, 2014 |
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Dec 11, 2014 11:01
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