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Jekub posted:I picked up an HPI Wheely King for my youngest for Christmas, found it for a very good price on ebay. Does anyone have any experience with them? Specifically what is liable to break first in the hands of a five year old? Might as well stock up on the spare parts now so he doesn't have to wait around for it. I went out bashing/crawling with some guys a few weeks back, and someone's kid had a Wheely King. He must've driven it straight into every single tree in the place, and the only thing that broke was a headlight. I was honestly surprised at how well it held up.
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Dec 11, 2014 17:54
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Jekub posted:I picked up an HPI Wheely King for my youngest for Christmas, found it for a very good price on ebay. Does anyone have any experience with them? Specifically what is liable to break first in the hands of a five year old? Might as well stock up on the spare parts now so he doesn't have to wait around for it. I gave my nephew a 4x4 wheely king for Christmas the year it came out. He hasn't driven it a ton but that thing is indestructible. The plastic links are really flexy and they aren't terribly fast out of the box so with a standard battery you will get gobs of run times and won't break anything. If you want to throw money at it for the sake of doing something then you can get a better metal geared steering servo and a Kimbrough servo saver. That will make the steering a bit more responsive. Have you looked at your Traxxas car at all or did you hear gears stripping and called it a day? Money is on just the spur gear stripping out. That is the primary drive gear that matches the pinion gear from the motor. Take the little gear cover off of the side of the trans. Traxxas has really beefed up the Magnum272 transmission a lot with steel gears on the inside and running a yoke pin for the little joints that come out of the trans. The only thing that is stripping on that truck with stock power is your spur gear, or maybe a wheel if the nut comes loose. You probably got a spare spur gear included with the truck when you bought it. Content! I decided to sell my old TREX helicopter that I have zero interest in since getting my DJI Phantom 2 and I bought something I have always wanted since driving one years ago. A Kyosho Blizzard DF-300  This one is special compared to the current "Blizzard SR" because it uses a standard 540 motor that has a single gear reduction before being fed into a 1/8 diff. On the output shafts of the diff are fitted a disc brake. A single servo will squeeze the one side of brakes to "turn" while the other side diffs out. I put a 4600Kv waterproof Sidewinder system in and put the receiver into a Traxxas Rally waterproof box. The power on 2S is ridiculous, just put "Kyosho Blizzard Brushless" into YouTube to see how hilarious these things are. The paint is a Tamiya Red Mica for use on their Ferarri models. The color really pops in the sun.  there are a metric shitton of stickers that take a lot of time and patience to put on. Plenty of molded plastic details for added realism. I frosted the windows with Tamiya Flat Clear and masked off where the "wiper" would clear the windshield for scale detail which I think turned out pretty good. I am ordering an RC4WD Light Bar and will be adding some scale accessories to complete the look. I am also considering their option metal tracks but want to see how it performs with the stock plastic ones first.  We are experiencing an unusual warm winter in Utah and haven't even had a decent snowfall to stick on the ground yet  Hopefully I will be able to get some action shots/video soon!
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Dec 11, 2014 19:02
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drat. I've always wondered how quick those things are. Looks like it could be a bit of fun in the right conditions. We got a light dusting here last night, just enough to warrant taking out the Wraith and ripping around the backyard a bit. In other news, it's also very hard to balance an 80-200 lens in one hand and an RC controller in the other. 
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Dec 11, 2014 19:45
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Somewhat Heroic posted:Have you looked at your Traxxas car at all or did you hear gears stripping and called it a day? We had a look when we got home, three teeth from the idler gear gone, the planetary is mostly OK but the teeth are scored, half a tooth gone from the top drive gear and the spur gear is actually mostly OK. Two of the bearings were completely seized which probably didn't help. Still my son helped me strip down the car and has been learning all about it as we go, the parts should be with me tomorrow to put it all back together for the weekend. As for the King I'll pick up a Kimbrough servo saver, I've read elsewhere that if anything is going to break it will be the stock one. It's a good looking truck though I'm very happy with it for the price I paid. I have a spare 5000mah lipo to go in it which should give him loads of run time. I've been looking for a Traxxas Monster Jam shell for it but they are incredibly hard to find over here now.
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Dec 11, 2014 22:48
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Wheely Kings rule. I've gotten really deep into scale monster truck racing over the last 6 months and 2 months ago we added a 1/12 mini class for primarily stock WK's (Tamiya Lunchbox/Pumpkins are also legal). It's been a huge hit. We race them heads up and freestyle them like the bigger 1/10 trucks. You can see some highlights from our race last weekend right here - http://youtu.be/yZKmkBLFDPQ. Our winter track is actually in the showroom at Bigfoot 4x4. Makes for nice ambiance  The trucks are super durable and thanks to a combination of being lightweight and made out of super flexy plastic you can beat the poo poo out of them and they are fine. When we freestyle the 1/10 trucks though....yeah, that gets expensive really fast. I am very jealous of that Kyosho Blizzard! I'm actually wanting one to turn into a monster tank truck for racing our retro class. Do you think you could lightly jump those things?
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Dec 16, 2014 16:44
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Sorry to double post but here is another video. I edited together a quick 3 minute "best of" of our Retro Monster Truck racing from our past season of it. Every track that we ran emulated something that real late 80's monsters ran somewhere in the US. Keep in mind that the suspension of most of these trucks is nonexistant. Our poor, poor Clodbusters. http://youtu.be/hmZWhogUDLw
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Dec 19, 2014 20:57
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Somewhat Heroic posted:A Kyosho Blizzard DF-300 Wow, that thing is awesome. There is a serious lack of Blizzard mud action on Youtube, maybe you can rectify this...
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Dec 26, 2014 19:07
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ColonelJohnMatrix posted:Keep in mind that the suspension of most of these trucks is nonexistant. Just like in real life.
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Dec 27, 2014 02:05
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Are the scx10 rtr series a decent unit for someone getting their feet wet in RC 4x4s? Looking at a 90022 Honcho
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Dec 28, 2014 07:56
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slidebite posted:Are the scx10 rtr series a decent unit for someone getting their feet wet in RC 4x4s? Looking at a 90022 Honcho Yes. I'm not completely familiar with the latest versions but I assume they're waterproof, etc., etc.
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Dec 29, 2014 21:38
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I went to buy the RTR SCX10 Honcho and it was sold out. I took the time to do some more research and decided I might want something a little faster anyhow. A big crawler does appeal to me but something that can boogie along at 20MPH+ does too. Any recommendations? I was looking at this Team Associated Prolite 4x4 http://www.teamassociated.com/cars_and_trucks/ProLite_4x4/RTR/ I'd like something I can tear around in the backyard with, the SCX10 certainly has an appeal still but I'm not 100% sold on anything at this point. I'd like 1/10 scale ideally. slidebite fucked around with this message at 03:22 on Dec 31, 2014 |
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Dec 31, 2014 01:38
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Hey guys, got a quick question. I'm kinda looking to pick up a cheap, 2wd electric basher to play with when my new heli is down for repairs. Any of you guys know much about ARRMA stuff? I'm eyeballing their Vorteks Mega Stadium truck since it's dirt cheap and I don't need much, just something fun to play with in the local park and the rock quarry. Are they solid, reliable, etc.? And if they're poo poo, what's something cheap you guys would recommend? I'm shooting for either a 2wd stadium truck or buggy, electric, and preferably under $250. I've done the nitro thing when I had my old Revo 3.3, and while it was an absolute blast, I got sick of fiddling with the jets for the fuel, trying to solve issues when it wouldn't start, etc. I was also thinking of maybe snagging a Traxxas Rustler, but it's really hard to beat a stadium truck for $150.
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Jan 1, 2015 01:07
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I think I settled on a Traxxas Slash. Just deciding if I want to go RTR basic, RTR ulitimate, or get the Platinum kit and build it. Right now, I am leaning towards the Platinum but it might be overkill since I don't race. Just want a good tough truck.
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Jan 1, 2015 21:39
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T1g4h posted:ARRMA STUFF I was pretty skeptical of the ARRMA stuff when it first was released but they seem to have some staying power. The positives of the brand is that they finally brought their prices down to a more realistic level, the guy that started the company was employed by HPI for a number of years (also worked with the Team Durango stuff) and knows what makes a decent product for the market. They have been around enough years that I think they will stick it out for the long haul. If you are looking for a budget ride to sling around occasionally then I think any of their offerings would be nice. If you have a local shop that stocks parts then that would be even more ideal. slidebite posted:I think I settled on a Traxxas Slash. Just deciding if I want to go RTR basic, RTR ulitimate, or get the Platinum kit and build it. I wanted to reply to your earlier posts but was just phone-posting. The Axial SCX10 trucks are some of the most popular RC cars on the market. I have had a Honcho since it came out like 4 or 5 years ago. I have driven it more than any of my other RC cars (which number about 15 total). I can drive it anywhere, and give it to my nieces/nephews/neighborhood kids and don't worry about a thing. They are slow enough that nothing really breaks. Maybe I am a little weird or have been in the hobby too long but everything from Traxxas just bores me to death. There are so many more options for vehicles that are more fun or do what a Traxxas car does only better. They somehow became the toyota-standard of the RC world. If you want something faster and 1/10 electric get the Axial Yeti. That thing is AWESOME! Needs a few upgrades, but from a driving standpoint it is much more entertaining and different to make it cool.
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Jan 1, 2015 23:44
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Well stock vxl traxxas like the rustler or slash are extremely fast and very durable (maybe not the rustler but if you don't crash head on it's tough) so when you take them out of the box you have a very good vehicle and most people will not need to upgrade them, also replacement parts are available everywhere and pretty cheap, even for me in EU. By the way I'm looking to sell my slash 4x4 vxl and rustler vxl (both have the TQI remote and one have the iphone dock thing) because I moved in the city center and have nowhere to use them so if anyone is interested let me know, EU only please
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Jan 2, 2015 04:55
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I'm looking to buy a toy for myself, specifically a Tamiya TT01ED based BMW M3 EVO (link for reference only), mostly just for playing around in the common driveway/parking area (until one of my annoying neighbours likely complains at least) and probably within my office since we have nice open areas that would be suitable. I'm looking at the RTR version, since I'm a little over putting things together at the moment. So I have a list of queries, which I'm hoping someone can help with: 1) Am I making a mistake in buying this unit? Is there a better product out there? (This assumes that Tamiya doesnt have an exclusive license for the body at least) 2) Its listed as a drift spec chassis, is there more to it than just low(er) grip tyres? I'm not really into the whole drifting thing, so its kinda lost on me 3) I'm kinda tempted to get the Tamiya Light Control unit to go with, just to actually have it nicely lit up - is it actually worth the extra cost? 4) By default these come with the RS-540 sport-tuned motor, I'm assuming that these are brushed and will likely have a limited life - should I stay with this or go to another motor? 5) Any good way to calculate run time on the batteries? (looking at 7.2v 5000mAh battery packs as part of the purchase) I haven't actually had an RC (unless you're counting Parrot AR Drones, in which case I have 2) for at least 10+ years, and even then it wasn't really mine - a friend was into it and I used to borrow his spare gear from time to time. I know I'm a little out of my depth here, so I'm just trying to do all my research and ask my questions before committing to it. [edit] I think I kinda answered point #2 on my own - apparently it has some suspension tuning to enable it. Wonder if I can change that. KingPave fucked around with this message at 07:25 on Jan 2, 2015 |
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Jan 2, 2015 07:20
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KingPave posted:I'm looking to buy a toy for myself, specifically a Tamiya TT01ED based BMW M3 EVO (link for reference only), mostly just for playing around in the common driveway/parking area (until one of my annoying neighbours likely complains at least) and probably within my office since we have nice open areas that would be suitable. I'm looking at the RTR version, since I'm a little over putting things together at the moment. 1) Tamiya make some of the best quality RC products out in the marketplace. 2) You can get grippier tyres from any hobby shop. Some come preglued on rims. Much More or Ride are two brands I recommend. 3) Not sure, never used it 4) Those motors last for ages. I used silver can RS motors and they are dirt cheap to replace. Only go for brushless if you have the cash 5) What type of battery is it, LiPo or NIMH? If it is LiPo, some speed controllers can cut off once the battery hits a certain voltage.
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Jan 2, 2015 07:56
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You Am I posted:1) Tamiya make some of the best quality RC products out in the marketplace. I should have qualified, I know that Tamiya are good but the TT01 platform still the best for a beginner like me? Then again, I've spent this arvo looking around and cant find anything else with the BMW E30 shell that I want. Guess I dont have a choice. Good to know about the motors etc. Regarding the batteries, I believe they're NiMH - though the LiPo batteries are intriguing, so I'll need to do more research on that. As for the light kit, if it comes out of the box with the lights working like this, then maybe a light controller wont be immediately necessary. Unrelated, most of the youtube videos for the Tamiya E30 M3's are filled with horrible music. Why do they need to do that. [edit] So, digging around, the RTR car I want is not in production any more so I have some concerns over the vehicle I'd be sold. If its been sitting on a shelf somewhere, I'd be curious to know why. Also, the TT01ED features "drift tires, special suspension tuning, full ball bearings, sport-tuned motor, aluminium heat sink, CVA mini shock dampers and short springs." Overall recommendations are to go for the TT01ED over the TT01ES, as apparently the ES is the entry level car with far more plastic pieces that aren't as durable as the counterparts on the ED. I may end up having to build an ED chassis and get the shell to go with it. I really loving suck at painting, so that could be a fun task. KingPave fucked around with this message at 11:30 on Jan 2, 2015 |
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Jan 2, 2015 10:20
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Somewhat Heroic posted:Maybe I am a little weird or have been in the hobby too long but everything from Traxxas just bores me to death. There are so many more options for vehicles that are more fun or do what a Traxxas car does only better. They somehow became the toyota-standard of the RC world. If you want something faster and 1/10 electric get the Axial Yeti. That thing is AWESOME! Needs a few upgrades, but from a driving standpoint it is much more entertaining and different to make it cool. Sh4 posted:Well stock vxl traxxas like the rustler or slash are extremely fast and very durable (maybe not the rustler but if you don't crash head on it's tough) so when you take them out of the box you have a very good vehicle and most people will not need to upgrade them, also replacement parts are available everywhere and pretty cheap, even for me in EU. I've been spending the last few days looking at reviews of 4x4 trucks and the Slash seems to be pretty highly regarded with no real negatives other than the basic model out of the box probably isn't suitable for racing, but that's fine by me. Still haven't plunked down my $$ yet, but that's the way I am presently leaning.
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Jan 2, 2015 19:37
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KingPave posted:I'm looking to buy a toy for myself, specifically a Tamiya TT01ED based BMW M3 EVO (link for reference only), mostly just for playing around in the common driveway/parking area (until one of my annoying neighbours likely complains at least) and probably within my office since we have nice open areas that would be suitable. I'm looking at the RTR version, since I'm a little over putting things together at the moment. The Tamiya TT01 chassis is their base electric chassis for 1/10. It was made to replace the older TL01 chassis (which I kind of liked for beginners). The great thing about this specific model you are looking at is that it includes full ball bearings. Tamiya kits used to include nylon/plastic bushings that would inevitably melt within a few runs. They are very easy to work on and maintain. Tamiya does offer some rather overpriced upgrade parts when you consider that you are putting them on a $100 chassis that will never be competitive. Their finish and quality is unmatched though. RC Mart actually has been making a few decent priced upgrades through their proprietary Yeah Racing brand for the TT01. The drift spec car simply has the drift compound tires and some adjustable camber links. The Tamiya light control unit works perfectly as can be expected. There are other light controllers for less cost that will do similar things (see Yeah Racing for example). The RS540 Sport Tuned is a brushed motor. They will run for a very long time without much notable performance. Run time will be good though. It is a nice balance for the capability of the TT01 chassis. You could go a little faster but then the chassis/driveline would likely be entering explodesville. A 5000 mah NiMH battery would leave me expecting ~20+ minute run times. If it was a LiPo battery then I would look for 30 minutes or so. Specifically what I would say is this; the TT01 is a base level car that can handle some upgrades, but throwing a ton of them at the car is ultimately not worth it. That chassis is more for those who are interested in having a highly detailed scale model that can drive, but isn't expecting a ton of performance. If you are looking to have something faster that still looks great then you have a whole multitude of options. Those bodies can be fit to any 1/10 electric car with a 190mm width (it is a standard size in the industry). Tamiya offers some pricier mid-level kits that you assemble that offer good performance and can handle a good brushless motor. For a shaft driven car the TBxx platform will be great, for belt drive the TA05/TA06 are great mid level cars. If you are looking specifically for an E30 M3 then you should take a look at this body from HPI: http://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/17540 The too are fully licensed. While the Tamiya does obsess over perfection the HPI is still a very scale and realistic body. This is a 200mm width which can still be fitted to an electric touring car, you will just need some offset wheels to fill up the gap and get them tucked right. It would also be worth checking out their Sprint 2 Flux which is a mid-level touring car platform that offers AWESOME speed and great handling for just running around to enjoy the hobby all at a reasonable price and totally RTR. Our resident krushgroove is an EU goon that works for HPI and can give some more advice on their offerings. edit: slidebite posted:I can get a brand new RTR slash for almost $100 cheaper than a yeti, and it comes with a (admittedly, not great) battery and charger. I'd be lying if I said the Yeti didn't interest me at all though. I have a couple of local hobby stores I might go by today to see if they have anything in stock/decent deals. If you are looking at a 4WD VXL 1/10 Slash you are definitely approaching and passing Yeti territory. If you are looking at the 2WD brushed version then the Yeti will be priced much higher, but the included components would outweigh the cost, especially as an upfront cost compared to upgrading later (alloy shock bodies, brushless motor, etc). Again, I have been a hobbyist since I was nine and have made this my career since I was 16 so I appreciate some of the more different offerings that are out there compared to the vanilla stuff. The Slash is a good truck and it has gotten a million people into the hobby. It is just that it is a little boring and I think overpriced for what you get. Speaking of weird stuff that gets me excited: We finally got snow on Christmas. Here is my Blizzard doing what it does best  CLNLMatrix: it does do jumps a little bit. The wheels are on little springs and I have jumped it maybe ~ 8 inches off of the ground into snow and it did fine. Because the super short gearing you really would need to have some throttle finesse when landing if you are on ground with a lot of traction. I think I will need to get the metal tracks as well. Somewhat Heroic fucked around with this message at 19:57 on Jan 2, 2015 |
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Jan 2, 2015 19:45
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slidebite posted:I can get a brand new RTR slash for almost $100 cheaper than a yeti, and it comes with a (admittedly, not great) battery and charger. I'd be lying if I said the Yeti didn't interest me at all though. I have a couple of local hobby stores I might go by today to see if they have anything in stock/decent deals. Well, don't consider using the traxxas stock battery and charger, they are just useless but also i wouldn't consider buying one brand new, I bought my slash new and the rustler used and except the shiny body it's not worth it buying new, also most second hand cars have been used only a few times. The VXL system is really good and really strong and require almost no maintenance as it's waterproof. I got the rustler for a good price, bought it sight unseen and except some missing screws, the thing has been problems free.
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Jan 2, 2015 23:05
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I held off on the slash but have not ruled it out. Browsed kijiji (craigs) to see what's available for used, turns out not much for my small city. But, I did come across someone selling brand new Redcat Racing vehicles not far from here. I haven't heard of them before but started doing some research on them and surprisingly to me at least, they don't seem to be junk. Some of there RTRs seem decently built, many are brushless and come with lipos out of the box. Any of you guys have familiarity with them? http://www.redcatracing.com/
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Jan 3, 2015 04:09
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I'm a distributor for them. They are definitely price point vehicles. The instructions are lack luster but redcat actually has good customer support. We only touch their 1/5 stuff which is the most decent out of the bunch but still has its minor flaws that are easily overcome. You're better off getting a used traxxas or something for 1/10 IMO.
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Jan 3, 2015 05:32
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I really appreciate the feedback, especially with the frank advice to stay away from Redcat for 1/10. I think I might get my feet wet with a 1/10 kit though instead of an RTR while keeping in mind the advice you gave on the TT01 Tamiya you gave earlier. I am a sucker for the body (240z) and I can get it in a TT01-D kit out the door for $200. I noticed HPI also sells a 240Z car but it's significantly more money with no electronics at all. I figure I can just add a cheap 2 channel radio and battery to the Tamiya and I can get my itch scratched for a reasonable budget. I know it's not going to be setting the world on fire for top speed, but I think I'll be OK with that. I do think I'll want different tires for it though. Crazy idea if a person keeps in mind your advice of throwing more money at that chassis is not the wisest idea? Building doesn't scare me. I think I even put together an old, old Grasshopper many years ago (like 20) but it's hazy. I have some experience with building models, wrench on my own vehicles, and put together computers so I'm pretty sure I can handle it. That Sprint 2 Flux you linked to does look great though. Tell me about those big redcat 1/5 scale Chimera and XB E buggies? How fast do those things go wide open? Are they the same basic unit just dressed up differently? How heavy are they? No, I'm nothing thinking of getting one immediately but I must admit the big scale and power of them looks pretty impressive.
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Jan 3, 2015 07:32
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Somewhat Heroic posted:The Tamiya TT01 chassis is their base electric chassis for 1/10. It was made to replace the older TL01 chassis (which I kind of liked for beginners). The great thing about this specific model you are looking at is that it includes full ball bearings. Tamiya kits used to include nylon/plastic bushings that would inevitably melt within a few runs. They are very easy to work on and maintain. Tamiya does offer some rather overpriced upgrade parts when you consider that you are putting them on a $100 chassis that will never be competitive. Their finish and quality is unmatched though. RC Mart actually has been making a few decent priced upgrades through their proprietary Yeah Racing brand for the TT01. The drift spec car simply has the drift compound tires and some adjustable camber links. The Tamiya light control unit works perfectly as can be expected. There are other light controllers for less cost that will do similar things (see Yeah Racing for example). The RS540 Sport Tuned is a brushed motor. They will run for a very long time without much notable performance. Run time will be good though. It is a nice balance for the capability of the TT01 chassis. You could go a little faster but then the chassis/driveline would likely be entering explodesville. A 5000 mah NiMH battery would leave me expecting ~20+ minute run times. If it was a LiPo battery then I would look for 30 minutes or so. Thank you for that wealth of info! I did look at the HPI body, it looks a little awkward. Which kind of answered the unasked question, I really am a stickler for details. As it turns out, the E30 I was looking to buy wasnt advertised exactly as it should have been - the guy said that it wasnt brand new, and gave me a list of caveats when I asked him if its something I should get as a beginner as its got a ton of extra things I didnt know about. Still, its not an issue since I did mention my want to buy a 1/10th RC to a friend who promptly put me in touch with someone selling an E30 M3 body because its surplus to their requirements and also suggested I buy a kit and put it together so that I know how to fix it when stuff breaks. He figures I probably havent seen one in a long time, so its easier this way. Similar to slidebite, my other option was the 240Z. I may just look to get the body and the 240Z kit, given that it should be interchangeable for the body if I'm reading the dimensions correctly. Also, based on the comment from You Am I, is the default ESC (TEU-101 BK) acceptable if using LiPo? Or will it freak out? Lastly, more for You Am I, where's good to buy from that doesnt screw me over too much for $? I'm Melbourne based, so I figure SEAsia will likely be the best location to buy from from a exchange rate POV.. KingPave fucked around with this message at 08:52 on Jan 3, 2015 |
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Jan 3, 2015 08:48
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Just a bit of warning/advice for you on the TT01/02 platform -its a old plastic tub chassis with (atleast in stock form) plastic diff gears and some other driveline issues. but for use with a brushed motor its great value. - the 101bk reg does not have lipo cutoff, this means that it will run your lipo battery until it is empty given the chance. this is bad because lipos does not handle being run that far down, they should typically be stopped at about 2.8-3.2v per cell to avoid damage to the battery or fires. -but after upgrading the center shaft and preferably motor mount the car is a great little car. its great value and you get a lot of cool bodies for it. -however, if you after running it for awhile start feeling the itch for expensive or shiny upgrades, cut your losses and get a upgraded platform instead of throwing every funky anodized alu piece in the 3racing/yeah racing inventory on it. I have seen to many guys show up to races with tt01 based monstrosities that they have spent 600 dollars on, and claiming it is just as good as a Xray/kyosho/Associated. results may vary, too say the least TL/DR get a tt01 as a first car, but if you get really into it, swap platforms rather then upgrading the TT01 to something it was never meant to be. In other news, i picked up another sponsorship, not paying to much for electronics goes a long way, especcialy since i lately have been replacing servos every race weekend. My wife also gave me a Xray Xb8 buggy, complete with engine and everything, i have missed racing 1/8 scale Offroad lately. My fleet is starting to get rather diverse. 1/10 Offroad: Schumacher KF Schumacher KR HB D413 1/10 onroad Schumacher Mi5 Evo and Xray T4 ´14 1/12 onroad Xray Xb 12 1/8 scale Xray xb808 (the old girl, converted to e-buggy) Xray Xb8 ´15 and i have RC10 worlds car, an XR10 crawler and some cc01s. I would like to get more into scale offroad, but i have to find time to it.
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Jan 3, 2015 12:50
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KingPave posted:Similar to slidebite, my other option was the 240Z. I may just look to get the body and the 240Z kit, given that it should be interchangeable for the body if I'm reading the dimensions correctly. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2131255 The car I am likely to end up with is the Drifter style though, painted Orange when I am done with it. http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/radio-control-kits-30/4wd-shaft-drive-on-road-%28tt%29-36110/rc-datsun-240z-drift-spec-58473 e: What is the opinion of the HPI Sprint 2 Sport versus Sprint 2 flux? I can get one of those in a RTR GTR for $200. slidebite fucked around with this message at 20:49 on Jan 3, 2015 |
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Jan 3, 2015 19:38
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Somewhat Heroic posted:Speaking of weird stuff that gets me excited: We finally got snow on Christmas. Here is my Blizzard doing what it does best Snow is so much fun. We got a dusting here today. Took the Wraith out with a few new upgrades and hooned it around the driveway for a bit. 
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Jan 3, 2015 22:31
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slidebite posted:You might be interested in this build thread I found in another forum if you haven't seen it. Yeah, I was looking at the same 240Z as you Cheers for the links, that build is nicely done.Based on what fjelltorsk said, the TEU-101 BK will need to be swapped out with something that does support LiPos though.
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Jan 4, 2015 00:50
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KingPave posted:Yeah, I was looking at the same 240Z as you Or you can order a five dollar lipo cutoff/alarm from ebay until you decide what esc you want. no need to go balls deep before you have to. this hobby gets expensive soon enough
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Jan 4, 2015 01:46
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fjelltorsk posted:Or you can order a five dollar lipo cutoff/alarm from ebay until you decide what esc you want. no need to go balls deep before you have to. this hobby gets expensive soon enough I can see that happening quickly
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Jan 4, 2015 01:55
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I worked im an rc shop for a few years, and I honestly cant say anything negative about the slash 4x4 as the perfect bashing vehicle. Its worth the extra bux over the 2wd brushless, no question. Replace the knuckles and arms with RPM and drive the gently caress out of it. Its been a while since Ive been in the RC community so its possible that something has come out that has dethroned it, but in my opinion the slash 4x4 is the king of RTR bashers.
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Jan 4, 2015 02:28
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I have never bothered with low voltage lipo cut off on ESCs without it built in. It's pretty simple: as soon as you notice a decrease in power the battery is dead. Don't drive it half a street length back to you. Don't leave a battery plugged in to the ESC as there will be slight parasitic drain even though the switch is turned off. Never leave a lipo connected to a charger even when the battery is topped off. Use a charging bag for your lipos and don't leave a lipo stored in a car. They have a shiz-ton of energy and just need to be handled properly so everyone can get home safe.
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Jan 4, 2015 03:07
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KingPave posted:Lastly, more for You Am I, where's good to buy from that doesnt screw me over too much for $? I'm Melbourne based, so I figure SEAsia will likely be the best location to buy from from a exchange rate POV.. Here's a list of hobby stores I use: - https://www.rcmart.com - https://www.rcmarket.com.hk - https://www.amainhobbies.com (mainly for tyres and shells and some electrics) Sadly the Australian distributor for Tamiya is garbage, so a lot of the local hobby shops can't stock much in the way of Tamiya parts
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Jan 4, 2015 08:46
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Somewhat heroic, can you talk a little bit about the big red cat racing vehicles? I haven't had much luck finding reviews/infos other than from red rock themselves or fanboys. I'm curious to learn more about them.
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Jan 4, 2015 09:00
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All the red cats I've seen in person (two of the 1/5 scale monster trucks) were garbage. While them running like poo poo is probably indicative of the owners (they didn't seem very bright), the trucks looked very cheaply made. Again though, I have no hands on experience with them. Hey, if anyone is interested in purchasing an Axial Yeti roller I'd happily sell mine. I bought it new as a roller and had it out for testing for about 10 seconds. Seriously, there is like only 30 seconds runtime on it and its pretty much brand new. It stripped the stock hub out immediately so I put it on the shelf while waiting for Axial's hub service kit. It arrived but its since been sitting. It has a Gear Head low profile roof rack on it, a new in package extra driveshaft kit, a new in package Axial hub service kit (this gets rid of the poo poo stock ones to the new standard 12mm hubs). The stock wheels and tires are complete garbage (and one was trashed) so I'll include a set of Axial R35 Ripsaws mounted to the new Axial Method wheels. I only ran them a couple days on my Wraith Spawn for a review. It also has a newist Hitec WP5646 waterproof servo and aluminum horn. Anyways, I'll shoot pics if anyone is interested. $250 shipped. That's a great deal. I've gotten so heavy into r/c scale monster trucks that I have no interest in the Yeti anymore. ColonelJohnMatrix fucked around with this message at 20:54 on Jan 5, 2015 |
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Jan 5, 2015 20:36
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Thanks for the opinion on Redcat. So I discovered a local hobby shop that I didn't even know existed and his selection was shockingly good. I think I have a  for a Yeti XL. drat, that's a nice looking unit. More than I am looking to spend, but I want it.ANYHOW, this guy has on the shelf a brand new Tamiya #57764 BMW 320, one of those expert built jobbies for $150 CDN. I figure at that price, I can't go wrong so I'm going to go back and pick it up tomorrow. I figure I can get a 240Z shell if I want in the future as this is one of those TT01 Chassis cars that was discussed earlier. Actual little car:  Reasonable course of action? But man, that Yeti XL looks awesome and supposedly goes like hell. Anyone know much about those? e: Just to be clear, does anyone know if a stock TT01 can take a Lipo battery capable or should I just get a nimh? slidebite fucked around with this message at 03:21 on Jan 6, 2015 |
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Jan 6, 2015 03:14
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Yeah, not gonna lie, that Yeti sounds really rad. If I were pulling a few more hours at work I'd definitely be interested.
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Jan 6, 2015 03:48
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Go Lipo, do not pass Go, do not collect a NIMH battery.
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Jan 6, 2015 05:42
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I know lipo is better, but does it work with the stock ESC or will I have to mod it right away? It looks like people are running them in tt01 so I guess it's OK 
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Jan 6, 2015 06:04
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