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Plinkey posted:Investing in a cheap 6/2 manual battery charger might not be a bad buy at this point. I keep on forgetting to head over to my neighbor and borrow his charger.
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Dec 8, 2014 23:50
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Sperglord Firecock posted:I keep on forgetting to head over to my neighbor and borrow his charger. Also make sure you ask him how to use it if it's a manual so you don't overcharge your battery and blow it up.
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Dec 8, 2014 23:55
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Astonishing Wang posted:My mom is cool as hell, she's always down to help My mom helped me push a dead forester into the garage the other week. She bitches about the cars all the time though. Also OP buy a jump pack.
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Dec 8, 2014 23:59
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Slow is Fast posted:My mom helped me push a dead forester into the garage the other week. She bitches about the cars all the time though. She only likes her broken cars on TV, not in the back yard 
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Dec 9, 2014 01:09
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hey dude I don't know if you still have my number but I was busy this weekend but I can defenitley help you this week some night or Saturday. Just let me know. I can borrow a fuel pressure guage from work and we can see why your betty is a oval office rather then a bitch.
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Dec 9, 2014 02:03
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Sperglord Firecock posted:I keep on forgetting to head over to my neighbor and borrow his charger. If you own a car, especially an older car, a battery charger is a must have. Even just a cheap P.O.S. from Walmart. I bought a computerized smart charger there to use on my bike during the winter and it was something like $25.
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Dec 9, 2014 02:12
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Update: After some finicky trying and fiddling about, got it running again. Woo! Car is running much cooler than before, and the gauges have changed color to a very nice red color which is super nice looking but ultra distracting when driving at night. Jumped it, car's hovering around 14v for voltage when running, jumping down to 13v when in neutral.
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Dec 11, 2014 02:24
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Update: New and interesting problem! Took it to a gas station, where the battery suddenly decided, "I"M GOING TO LOSE ALL OF MY CHARGE AT ONCE!" and proceeded to do so. Suspecting a ground in the positive part of the electrical wiring system, mostly because that's about the only thing I can think of that'd cause a catastrophic sudden battery charge loss. Voltage gauge was reading about 13-14v while driving, so bueno when it's driving. Just getting it started is a bit of a gamble.
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Dec 11, 2014 03:40
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Sperglord Firecock posted:Update:  That's not how electrical systems work and batteries don't completely discharge out of nowhere. Either there's still an intermittent connection somewhere or your alternator still isn't charging right. Did you ever fix the battery cables?
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Dec 11, 2014 04:36
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Sounds like the alternator is working. You either still have hosed up cables or a bad battery.
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Dec 11, 2014 04:37
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I'm leaning towards the cables, since the battery is brand spanking new as I've said, and specifically the negative cable. Because it's all ratty and nasty and ripped up, and something tells me cables should not be that way. Not to mention there's all sorts of connection plugs and stuff that looks like it SHOULD be plugged in somewhere, but god knows where it's supposed to go. Could've sworn that's how poo poo worked onboard our ship. Mind you, electrical poo poo in the Navy is a whole giant clusterfuck, but eh?
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Dec 11, 2014 05:11
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Hell cables or terminals are easy and cheap enough to have near the top of the list, cant count the number of electrical issues Ive fixed with either or.
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Dec 11, 2014 05:32
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New Update: Went to AutoZone, had them test the battery. Battery was bad, so they just gave me a new one free. Warranties are a wonderful thing. Still has the slightly troubling habit of stalling out at stops, but now, at least, it starts when it stalls. Overheating was fixed by turning on the fan. Car is FUNCTIONAL! WOO! Although making grumpy noises that I want to have some of you hear at some point in order to get an idea if it's running like it should. Passed some lovely shiny new BMW Roadster. Guy driving it looked like an rear end in a top hat. I felt cool as poo poo. 
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Dec 11, 2014 17:59
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Sperglord Firecock posted:New Update: quote:Overheating was fixed by turning on the fan. quote:grumpy noises that I want to have some of you hear at some point in order to get an idea if it's running like it should. quote:Passed some lovely shiny new BMW Roadster. Guy driving it looked like an rear end in a top hat. I felt cool as poo poo.
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Dec 11, 2014 18:23
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I really do think that replacing the main battery and earthing cables/terminals would be a rather good idea. These "randomly ceasing to function, occasionally dead battery" symptoms definitely point to poor connections of some kind from where I'm sitting.
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Dec 11, 2014 18:23
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Fix your loving cables already
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Dec 11, 2014 20:02
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Slow is Fast posted:Fix your loving cables already Also: Sperglord Firecock posted:Overheating was fixed by turning on the fan. That is not a fix buddy, you have a problem. Make sure the air is out first of the system. Did you actually flush the cooling system or just drain it? Make sure the thermostat is good (the "mechanic" who rebuilt the engine should have done this, but that is a $5 corner he might of cut) Make sure water pump belt isn't continually slipping. Water pump may need to be replaced. That missing fan shroud isn't helping either. Get a hold of the previous owner, he might still have it since they are a pain in the rear end to re&re he probably just left it off.
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Dec 11, 2014 20:13
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Sperglord Firecock posted:
stone soup fucked around with this message at 20:41 on Dec 11, 2014 |
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Dec 11, 2014 20:26
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The battery cables are seriously not a big deal to fix - take out what you have, look at how many connections there are, what goes to what, etc. Measure the lengths and then go to the store and pick and choose the cables that will duplicate the original routing and attachments. Get the cables with lug ends (rings) that will attach to the new terminals that you'll buy with a wingnut.
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Dec 11, 2014 20:29
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Don't be afraid to dig in and get your hands dirty. You said you got a job you can walk to anyway, didn't you? Changing cables is one of the easiest DIY's, probably as easy as doing the coolant, you'll just add in the use of a couple simple hand tools.
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Dec 12, 2014 00:41
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Slow is Fast posted:Fix your loving cables already This, don't be a dumbass, you should have done it asap and it's probably the reason the first new battery took a poo poo.
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Dec 12, 2014 00:48
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GentlemanofLeisure posted:Don't be afraid to dig in and get your hands dirty. You said you got a job you can walk to anyway, didn't you? Changing cables is one of the easiest DIY's, probably as easy as doing the coolant, you'll just add in the use of a couple simple hand tools. That's the problem, still no job, which mean I literally have no money to even get tools or get anything. Tools are coming for Christmas, thankfully enough, but still. I thought that just straight up not having any alternator input would make a battery poo poo too if it ran for long enough? I'm going to be working on the cables, but realistically, I don't have the capability to fix the cables right now from a financial standpoint. fishception fucked around with this message at 18:53 on Dec 12, 2014 |
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Dec 12, 2014 18:51
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Fine, but don't kill the car. I said before you had a chance of killing the ECU and you got lucky IMO. Don't use the car until you can fix it.
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Dec 12, 2014 18:58
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Thread continues to live up to title
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Dec 12, 2014 20:21
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rscott posted:Thread continues to live up to title Very much so. We're even getting some classic goon-in-a-well action re: the battery cables.
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Dec 12, 2014 21:37
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The car is loving doomed.
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Dec 12, 2014 23:36
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1986 300ZX: "That part can't be broken, it's new!" 
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Dec 12, 2014 23:59
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yeah I threw the goon in the well some rope...he still kept digging...err driving. I told him it should be ok. but I bet he still didn't put the one grounding bolt in the battery cable....Ill just keep digging.....
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Dec 13, 2014 02:00
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SouthsideSaint posted:yeah I threw the goon in the well some rope...he still kept digging...err driving. I told him it should be ok. but I bet he still didn't put the one grounding bolt in the battery cable....Ill just keep digging..... The grounding bolt is in.
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Dec 13, 2014 04:23
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Update: Since everyone is universally telling me that it is a terrible idea for me to continue to drive this car during the winter, I will relent. I have a bunch of money in savings that I am taking out due to financial concerns anyways, and I will spend it on the shittiest winter beater car that I can possibly find that is still manual transmission, because it's overall a good idea for me to get more practice on manual anyways. Options I am looking at are a terrifyingly stock 1996 Ford Escort 2 Door Hatchback for 1350, an ugly as sin early 96 Miata for 1250, a rusty 94 Accord for 1k. I'm looking very heavily at the Escort, tbh.
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Dec 14, 2014 12:21
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Out of all of these, only the Accord is an interference engine. And at those prices, I can guarantee none of them have had the timing belts changed recently. Pull the shock tower covers off in the rear hatch of the Escort. See rust? Run away. Don't see rust? You're probably okay. They generally rust the worst around the rear shock towers, and eventually let the rear shocks punch through and say "hello" to your interior. The Miata would be a lot of fun, but it's so light, and also RWD, that I don't think it would do so well in snow without dedicated snow tires. A 94 Accord for $1k just scares me. It's an interference engine, with a timing belt interval of every 90k/7 years. At that price, I bet it's on the original belt, so you can expect to spend at least $500 right off the bat (or $1000+ if the belt breaks on the way home)
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Dec 14, 2014 13:41
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You don't even have tools, ffs. Buy a bicycle; you don't need another car/moneypit. Edit; You might be able to find a Maserati Biturbo for that price. stone soup fucked around with this message at 15:28 on Dec 14, 2014 |
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Dec 14, 2014 15:26
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Go to a large dealership in your area with cash (especially if they run those WE WILL TAKE ANY TRADE!!!1 ads), ask if they have anything on their trade in lot. Chances are, there will be an entire row of poo poo cars that aren't good enough to put out that they just want to dump. I got an 8 year old Mustang with 42k miles on it for $125 ($200 OTD with all the paperwork done) like this when I was in college.
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Dec 14, 2014 17:40
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Black88GTA posted:Go to a large dealership in your area with cash (especially if they run those WE WILL TAKE ANY TRADE!!!1 ads), ask if they have anything on their trade in lot. Chances are, there will be an entire row of poo poo cars that aren't good enough to put out that they just want to dump. I got an 8 year old Mustang with 42k miles on it for $125 ($200 OTD with all the paperwork done) like this when I was in college.
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Dec 14, 2014 17:42
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ooorrrrr take the money, buy the cheapie "mechanics" toolset from sears' site. (half off cause xmas!) annnnd fix the car!  oh, and listen to our advice.. we've all been down this rabbit hole a time or a thousand.
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Dec 14, 2014 17:43
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Sperglord Firecock posted:Update: I'm going to counter that. Spend $30, fix the drat cables already, tackle the cooling issue and just drive the loving thing in the winter. It's not like that car is a collectors item at this point, if ever. If it rusts out/you run it in the ground so be it. I drove mine for a few Northern Alberta winters and it wasn't that bad. Just keep it clean and avoid the worst of the road conditions.
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Dec 14, 2014 18:19
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I bet there is another safe inside that safe 
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Dec 14, 2014 23:17
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Sperglord Firecock posted:Options I am looking at are a terrifyingly stock 1996 Ford Escort 2 Door Hatchback for 1350, an ugly as sin early 96 Miata for 1250, a rusty 94 Accord for 1k. If the Escort is a GT then get the escort, otherwise buy the Miata. Miatas are great winter cars with snow tires.
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Dec 14, 2014 23:25
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slidebite posted:I'm going to counter that. Spend $30, fix the drat cables already, tackle the cooling issue and just drive the loving thing in the winter. It's not like that car is a collectors item at this point, if ever. If it rusts out/you run it in the ground so be it. Okay, if you say so.... I really want to ensure this thing lasts a while, because it's in pretty dang good shape, but alright.
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Dec 15, 2014 00:09
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Do what this guy said, but also buy a lovely winter beater and run it into the ground if you must. The 300ZX is too cool to let rust away. Spending a grand on a lovely beater is going to get you a lot more for your dollar than spending those same dollars trying to keep the 300ZX clean dailying it through the winter.slidebite posted:I'm going to counter that. Spend $30, fix the drat cables already, tackle the cooling issue and just drive the loving thing in the winter. It's not like that car is a collectors item at this point, if ever. If it rusts out/you run it in the ground so be it. But gently caress a ford escort. Vaguely where do you live? I'm sure we can find you something better than that.
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Dec 15, 2014 04:17
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