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Chiwie posted:http://www.processwest.com.au/products/subaru/wrx-sti-g3/my08-14-wrx-verticooler-intercooler-system My first impression is that it seems kind of silly. Plus it's nearly $1000. When you are getting to a core that big I don't really like top mounts. They are great for a street type car that doesn't make a huge amount of power, but eventually you are better off going to a front mount and changing how the air flows through the front of the car. A tmic and the radiator are kind of at odds with each other because they are both pumping hot air into the engine bay from different directions. The result is more lift, more drag, and less efficient cooling. So if you really cared about good charge cooling and aerodynamics you would want to ditch the hood scoop and tmic and instead have a fmic and venting out of the top of the hood. So I guess in conclusion, for under about 400hp just go with a standard upgraded tmic (I really like ETS parts, and perrin is also ok) and a decent radiator and let the extra cooling capacity deal with the inefficiencies of the system. Over that you have to put some thought and effort into cooling or you aren't going to be able to do anything with the car past occasional highway pulls. jamal fucked around with this message at 21:32 on Dec 9, 2014 |
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Dec 9, 2014 21:30
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Artemis J Brassnuts posted:Wow, that's an awesome link. If you don't need a lot of storage, go impreza. If you need some storage but not a lot go outback sport. I daily drive a big fat legacy and while you can throw it around, I miss DDing an impreza for the chassis but not for the creature comforts or lack there of.
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Dec 9, 2014 21:51
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Slow is Fast posted:If you don't need a lot of storage, go impreza. If you need some storage but not a lot go outback sport. I daily drive a big fat legacy and while you can throw it around, I miss DDing an impreza for the chassis but not for the creature comforts or lack there of. Outback Sport and Impreza (assuming wagon) are going to have the same amount of storage. The Outback Sport is literally just a lifted Impreza wagon with some body trim.
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Dec 9, 2014 21:59
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bull3964 posted:Outback Sport and Impreza (assuming wagon) are going to have the same amount of storage. The Outback Sport is literally just a lifted Impreza wagon with some body trim. I assumed coupe/sedan when I said impreza. I am aware they are the same car.
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Dec 9, 2014 22:20
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Slow is Fast posted:I assumed coupe/sedan when I said impreza. I am aware they are the same car. The rear suspension is the same between the GF (93-01) and GG (02-07) Imprezas, though - I think your original post is assuming that it's a Legacy Outback. For what it's worth, my 97 Outback Sport was the best car I've ever owned. I'd get another in a heartbeat, if they weren't all run into the ground here.
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Dec 10, 2014 01:04
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Newbie question! I just picked up a 2005 Outback. Saw some rubber rear seat back protectors online, but when I google around, they're only for 2010+. Are there any for the older models, or am I stuck having to jerry rig something together? Also is there any basic newbie guide to maintenance and a fluid replacement schedule? I tried to do it right and got one with 134k miles and documented replaced head gaskets/timing belt/transmission, so mechanically it's in solid shape. I'd like to do my part to keep it that way.
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Dec 10, 2014 04:12
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Seat Safety Switch posted:The rear suspension is the same between the GF (93-01) and GG (02-07) Imprezas, though - I think your original post is assuming that it's a Legacy Outback. I have no idea at this point. Get the impreza based one if you don't need to haul massive loads of poo poo. The Rat posted:Newbie question! http://www.subaru.com/content/downloads/pdf/maintsched/2005SchedCA.pdf Headgasket and timing belts WITH pullies are the big ones. Everything else should be good. Those wagons liked to tear control arm bushings and fart out wheel bearings as well, but you'd notice if it had an issue.
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Dec 10, 2014 14:54
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Thanks! I'm assuming the pullies got done as well. The car came from a used car dealership/garage that specializes in Subarus, and I had it inspected by a mechanic twice before buying. (The first time he caught the transmission issue, which the dealer then replaced entirely without upping the price. Had it inspected a second time before putting the cash down.) So far I'm digging it. Didn't even know that auto-dimming rear view mirrors existed until a couple nights ago while driving it. This was my reaction: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-f_DPrSEOEo
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Dec 10, 2014 15:39
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Seat Safety Switch posted:The rear suspension is the same between the GF (93-01) and GG (02-07) Imprezas, though - I think your original post is assuming that it's a Legacy Outback. While generally the same, there are differences for sure. There are quite a few geometry variations and varying mounts/etc. The FWD 93-95 Imprezas for instance don't even have a RSB or mounts for one. 93-01 Imprezas use a different/incompatible rear top mount than 02-07, etc.
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Dec 10, 2014 15:56
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My wife's '97 Taurus seems to have some significant issues. It runs perfectly and has a killer heater— good for South Dakota this time of year— but has some front-end problems (new wheel bearing hub assembly is allegedly defective, ball joints are shot, CV axle/wheel speed sensor are damaged from an improperly-installed wheel bearing) and the rear struts are also completely worn out and the springs may be broken, which I'll be able to check when I get home. Where Subaru comes into this is that if the repair cost would be too high I'm looking to maybe let her drive my car and buy a used Outback so I can have selective 4WD on the back highway while commuting. I found this listing, where they're definitely way overvaluing that vehicle. The Carfax report seems to indicate that this car was used as a fleet vehicle for the states of Minnesota and South Dakota, which essentially makes it Sven the Viking Car. The reports lists some maintenance, noting that it was "serviced" but not how and that the engine, transmission, etc. were "checked" but not what was found. I bluebooked the car for a private sale and it came out to just under $4,500. These insanos want $7,000. It appears to be in good shape, but I just talked to one person who told me not to buy from that dealership and I just assume wherever I go they're going to try to hide a defect or two anyway. That said, assuming no defects I'm going to need to get fixed within the first few months: A) what do you figure I could probably talk them down to that's reasonable and B) what sort of defects should I look for to lower the amount of A) in negotiations?
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Dec 10, 2014 23:13
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The day after getting my OB back from having the headgasket work done, one of the belts made a squeal going around a big corner. I figured "eh, probably the new belts stretching" as it stopped a few seconds later. After dinner, we go to leave and something isn't right. It squeals loudly and makes some slapping noises. The bolt on the belt tensioner wasn't torqued down enough and pulled% the threads in the alternator housing out. The shop fixed it for free but goddamn what a terrible design. Apparently I didn't get the worst of it though, seeing as how it usually snaps off in the housing insert of pulling the threads out
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Dec 11, 2014 09:52
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I want to put in an FMIC. Talk me out of it, quick. 
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Dec 11, 2014 20:11
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Roman Rambo posted:I want to put in an FMIC. Talk me out of it, quick. They turn a 5mph impact into a parking divider into a $500+ repair bill.
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Dec 11, 2014 20:17
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Roman Rambo posted:I want to put in an FMIC. Talk me out of it, quick. You can get shark teeth painted on it and intimidate everyone. Hope this helps.
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Dec 11, 2014 20:34
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What turbo and intake are on the car? The perrin IC comes with a bar that goes across the front of the car that it hangs from, but I don't really expect it to do a whole lot or prevent IC damage in a low speed front end collision.
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Dec 11, 2014 20:34
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It's a 60lb/min FP HTA Green. The car is only used for road course events and driving to/from road course events. Right now I have a big aftermarket TMIC and I'm spraying 1-2 gals of meth every 20 minutes.
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Dec 11, 2014 20:36
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In that case, you're foolish to do anything except either a front mount or custom V mount rad/IC setup.
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Dec 11, 2014 20:38
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Like I mentioned earlier, ideally you will have most of the air that comes into the front of the car exiting out the hood. Having it go under or just into the engine bay with no good exit path means higher pressure under the car and especially the front end. The wrc v-mounts actually ducted all the air from the radiator(s) out the sides of the car in front of the tires. Then the IC was also fully ducted and went out the top. So doing your cooling and venting right will make the car faster too. I haven't had any hands on experience with the ETS subaru front mount kit but I really liked the top mounts I've installed and their other stuff is nice. http://www.extremeturbosystems.com/ETS-2004-2007-Subaru-STI-Front-Mount-Intercooler-Kit.html They are a little less than the perrin kit but perrin has had years and years to refine how the piping fits. They get a good amount criticism but I think the IC is one thing they do really well. I do also get a bigger discount on their parts than ETS.
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Dec 11, 2014 21:17
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What I'm envisioning is something like this:
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Dec 11, 2014 21:58
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I would only do that if you also do the duster hood prop mod. That is to say, I wouldn't do that at all. Not sure who designed that or what they use the car for, but the radiator doesn't seem like it would see enough air to cool the car.
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Dec 11, 2014 22:02
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Yeah it does seem to totally occlude the radiator. I think perhaps reversed intake manifold and then mount the fmic lower to at least get the rad some air.
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Dec 11, 2014 22:11
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Volvos run bigass intercoolers that completely block the radiator in their cars and it's fine, the biggest issue I see with that setup is that his intercooler is going to have no airflow at all through a 1/3 of it's area.
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Dec 11, 2014 22:15
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That's where I'd start looking into the V mount setups instead.
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Dec 11, 2014 22:16
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I'd use a smaller IC because I'd rather have less compressible volume.
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Dec 11, 2014 22:21
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Here are a few pictures of what we did:   Done over again I would do things a little differently but that's still pretty close. Main things I would do are cut out the upper rad support and fab a new one with better mounts for the radiator. I'd also get a radiator that was a little shorter so I could have it angled more sharply. That was done by just flipping the mounts around from the old setup and making a little tab that stuck out for the intercooler. Then I would make the inlet in the front smaller and create a better air dam for the splitter, block off the upper grill openings, and make the vent in the hood bigger with more of a duct. This evo for example is doing it right:  
jamal fucked around with this message at 00:41 on Dec 12, 2014 |
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Dec 11, 2014 22:49
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It looks like someone may be serially stealing first gen Imprezas in Portland: http://www.reddit.com/r/Portland/comments/2ozmq3/attention_1st_gen_9201_imprezalegacy_owners_your/
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Dec 12, 2014 02:56
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blk posted:It looks like someone may be serially stealing first gen Imprezas in Portland: http://www.reddit.com/r/Portland/comments/2ozmq3/attention_1st_gen_9201_imprezalegacy_owners_your/ If only they liked 1st gen STI's and came to Vancouver.
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Dec 12, 2014 03:01
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Roman Rambo posted:I want to put in an FMIC. Talk me out of it, quick. Only if it's shiny and you cut out as much of the front bar as you can to show it off, and its low mount like one of these.  It's the only way
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Dec 12, 2014 03:37
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si posted:While generally the same, there are differences for sure. There are quite a few geometry variations and varying mounts/etc. The FWD 93-95 Imprezas for instance don't even have a RSB or mounts for one. 93-01 Imprezas use a different/incompatible rear top mount than 02-07, etc. My '00 2.0 sport doesn't have a rear Arb or mounts either. So not just the fwd shitters.
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Dec 12, 2014 16:40
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So, now that Ford has confirmed the Focus RS is coming to the US with the 2.3L turbo ecoboost engine and it is all but confirmed it will be AWD, hopefully that will motivate Subaru to step up their game with the WRX. One thing's for sure, they better get the hatch relaunched or they'll find that their 50% of hatch WRX buyers may not settle for the sedan and jump ship. WRX should really be bumped to the 'almost 300hp' level of the STI and the STI should be given closer to 350-360.
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Dec 12, 2014 16:48
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Saga posted:My '00 2.0 sport doesn't have a rear Arb or mounts either. So not just the fwd shitters. The rear bar shells that don't have a RSB stock should have a rubber plug that you can pop out to bolt one on.
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Dec 12, 2014 16:57
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Slow is Fast posted:The rear bar shells that don't have a RSB stock should have a rubber plug that you can pop out to bolt one on. Thanks, will have a look for them as an arb would be useful.
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Dec 12, 2014 19:25
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bull3964 posted:
Put a turbo h6 in the STi and sell them at 400hp. I'd buy one.
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Dec 12, 2014 19:29
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Winter setup installed. The 17s barely clear the brakes. I went with Pirelli Sottozero 3s for the tires. They seemed to handle the heavy rain pretty well over the past couple days. Heading to the mountains this weekend as well so we'll see how it does.
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Dec 12, 2014 20:29
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I broke the stupid loving alternator tension bolt while trying to change the belt today, and can't order a new one until Monday. Presumably the dealer should stock them since according to the internet, the same part was used in Outbacks, Foresters and Imprezas for a solid 10 years at least - basically anything with the 2.5 SOHC. Stupid stupid stupid. 
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Dec 13, 2014 23:55
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stevobob posted:I broke the stupid loving alternator tension bolt while trying to change the belt today, and can't order a new one until Monday. Presumably the dealer should stock them since according to the internet, the same part was used in Outbacks, Foresters and Imprezas for a solid 10 years at least - basically anything with the 2.5 SOHC. Hardware store?
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Dec 14, 2014 00:23
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So my 06 outback (211k miles) has been humming and humming since I bought it at 202k. Tonight I finally got around to dumping the ATF and refilling it, hopefully that should buy me enough time to get the money together for a new transmission, if not a whole new (turbo) drivetrain. I overfilled it, but I bought a siphon so I’m gonna pull some out tomorrow. I read that it will generally drop 5 quarts (of 9.8 total) through the drain plug, but I had no way of measuring it and just kept dumping fluid in. It took 7 quarts before I thought “something’s not right, here…" The old fluid was complete poo poo- just reddish brown junk with a few gummy bits floating around. I also ran seafoam through it and put in a new PCV valve (was all clogged and lovely) and a new air filter (just filled with bugs and poo poo) and tomorrow I’m slapping in a new serpentine belt idler pulley because it’s loving screaming. All in all, I’m hoping it drives like a whole different car. I can already tell the throttle response is better. If it still has a low idle after my next oil change and a few dozen more miles for the ECU to "re-learn”, I’m gonna see if I can’t find a vacuum leak. Then I’ll be terrorizing empty, snowy parking lots for at least 2-3 more months.
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Dec 14, 2014 03:33
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daslog posted:Hardware store? Would have, but the tension bolt broke off in the tension nut which is a little block of metal with two bolt holes 90º offset each other, and it's seized in so I can't get it out. One of these:  The threaded hole is where I broke the bolt off, and the other hole is unthreaded; another bolt goes through it and a slotted bracket into the alternator. edit: Like so, #1 is the broken bolt, #2 is the "nut"/block in the other pic. 
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Dec 14, 2014 18:40
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Yeah, I don't think any dealer carriers those bolts. I broke the long threaded one as well and the dealership (two of them) couldn't even find the part number necessary to order the bolt.
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Dec 14, 2014 18:45
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I have the part numbers, and have submitted a request to parts at the local dealer. I'll hopefully find out Monday, and if they have it then I'll get a couple of the nut/block pieces because it's bound to happen again some day. The nut is 34436AA001, the bolt is 34435AA030.
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Dec 14, 2014 18:47
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