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Kibner posted:Spreading of sanding, would a high grit paper work for removing discoloration left by sprues? I've messed around with x-actos, files, cutting close to sand, and leaving alot to the nub to sand down. Pretty much they all get the same results its a matter of preference. Fully painting is the best way to cover nubs, the rest is totally livable though. I plan to paint one day but in till then I've almost never been disappointed with how things have come out. Curse you metal Tenzarin fucked around with this message at 02:38 on Dec 18, 2014 |
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Dec 18, 2014 02:36
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The mono eye that slides from side to side when you turn the head is seriously the best gunpla technology. What an elegant and fun way to give character to the kit and make most any pose look more natural.
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Dec 18, 2014 04:20
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MJP posted:I've used Alclad lacquers plenty of times, and as long as you clean your airbrush with the appropriate cleaner (I tried normal Tamiya lacquer thinner - do not do this, use airbrush cleaner) you will be just fine. Thanks for the tip. I have vallejo airbrush thinner and I was looking into a good option for my mr. color lacquers. Can you recommend any?
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Dec 18, 2014 04:23
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Alclad's airbrush cleaner has never steered me wrong.
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Dec 18, 2014 05:49
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Can anyone identify the arms on this thing? I'd like to kitbash my own version and I've got the basic idea of Zaku (Mobility?) legs/torso, Dom head but I can't figure out the arms/shields for the life of me.
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Dec 18, 2014 06:13
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BlitzBlast posted:The other is a Psycommu Zaku with a Dom inspired head, the Jagd Doga's funnels, and High Mobility type legs.
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Dec 18, 2014 06:19
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Yeah, what was throwing me off is that there's not an HG version of the psycommu. 
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Dec 18, 2014 06:27
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The shields look almost like Nu Gundam shields, but would the Build Fighters Gouf R35 work, maybe?
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Dec 18, 2014 06:34
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Ka0 posted:Thanks for the tip. I have vallejo airbrush thinner and I was looking into a good option for my mr. color lacquers. Can you recommend any? I've had fine results with Alclad and Tamiya airbrush cleaner. I'm out of cleaner, though, and those are fairly pricey - like $7-8ish for a small bottle - so inquired on some plastic model/Gunpla Facebook groups as to which cheapo lacquer thinner works best. Everyone seems to say the big cans of lacquer thinner from Home Depot/Lowes do just fine to clean lacquer, so I'll be picking one up and posting results next time I paint. Probably won't be anytime too soon, I'm taking a brief break in order to gird my loins for the onslaught of Gunpla I have from Secret Santa exchanges, yet to unwrap, and from hints dropped to the wife for in-law family distribution. MJP fucked around with this message at 16:34 on Dec 18, 2014 |
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Dec 18, 2014 16:29
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MJP posted:I've had fine results with Alclad and Tamiya airbrush cleaner. I'm out of cleaner, though, and those are fairly pricey - like $7-8ish for a small bottle - so inquired on some plastic model/Gunpla Facebook groups as to which cheapo lacquer thinner works best. Everyone seems to say the big cans of lacquer thinner from Home Depot/Lowes do just fine to clean lacquer, so I'll be picking one up and posting results next time I paint. Probably won't be anytime too soon, I'm taking a brief break in order to gird my loins for the onslaught of Gunpla I have from Secret Santa exchanges, yet to unwrap, and from hints dropped to the wife for in-law family distribution. Yep, the big cans work fine. That's what I use. Just do yourself a favor and make sure you get the low odor variant. It's not scentless by any means, but it's not nearly as bad as the regular stuff.
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Dec 18, 2014 17:15
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Suzaku posted:Yep, the big cans work fine. That's what I use. Just do yourself a favor and make sure you get the low odor variant. It's not scentless by any means, but it's not nearly as bad as the regular stuff. Thanks. I do my airbrushing in a spray booth but the less stink to begin with, the better.
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Dec 18, 2014 19:21
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Working for the TITANS Destroying Hong Kong from afar!  You gotta find first gear  In the PSYCO XLR!  You dig giant robots! I dig giant robots! We dig giant robots! Chicks dig giant robots!  NICE!! 
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Dec 18, 2014 21:10
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You are a good person How'd you get the gradient in the thrusters?
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Dec 18, 2014 21:20
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I layered it from yellow at the core (over a white base, it's OK if some of the white shines through in the deepest parts!) and wet-blended it with orange (painted orange on very carefully while the last coat of yellow was still wet and making sure not to touch any of the deepest parts), did the same with red, and then did a final coat of black (making sure to keep the edges where the black and red touch as rough as possible to try to give it a bit of a fake heat-shimmer). Then I went in and very, very carefully highlighted the raised bits and the end of the central thruster thingy with the darkest black I've got to make the rest pop.
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Dec 18, 2014 21:28
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PoptartsNinja posted:Working for the TITANS Owns
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Dec 18, 2014 22:47
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PoptartsNinja posted:You dig giant robots! This is OP material right here. True gunpla spirit.
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Dec 19, 2014 00:13
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The Mechanicore 1/100 Xi Gundam has shown up on ebay for anyone looking to get themselves a nice Christmas present: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Plastic-Mode...=p2056016.l4276
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Dec 19, 2014 01:33
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Best part is the mudflap ladies.
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Dec 19, 2014 01:41
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KoB posted:Best part is the mudflap ladies. The best part is all of Megas XLR.
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Dec 19, 2014 03:07
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I got to sit down and play around with some hand painting finally, just using some cheap brush set I got at the hobby store and gundam markers drained into a cup. Redid some crappy decals (your next, build strike wings) and enjoyed it. Whats a decent (under $20) brush set to go for? The one I'm using is atlas. Going to order some vallejo airbrush paints, which I've read in a few places are good for hand painting as well.
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Dec 19, 2014 05:34
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If you're ordering vallejo make sure it's model air and not model color, which is harder to work on an airbrush without medium retarder. The paint dries so fast it tends to clog the exit nozzle and you end up losing time cleaning it.
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Dec 19, 2014 05:50
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Ka0 posted:If you're ordering vallejo make sure it's model air and not model color, which is harder to work on an airbrush without medium retarder. The paint dries so fast it tends to clog the exit nozzle and you end up losing time cleaning it. He's asking about Handbrushing.
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Dec 19, 2014 06:36
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If you're going to handbrush, get model color, not model air. Model is a bit too runny, model color just needs a bit of water and it's good to go.
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Dec 19, 2014 06:41
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Speaking of Vallejo, while Mr. Metallic Color gives amazing results as a handbrushed metallic, I'd like to minimize my use of lacquers - even with a spray booth, it propagates a smell through the rest of the house. How are Vallejo's metallics for handbrushing? I've got Alclad, which doesn't stink as bad as Mr. Metallic, for airbrush use, but given how Tamiya's chrome silver and gold leaf have that sparkly look, I'm concerned about other acrylic metallics.
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Dec 19, 2014 15:30
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They're... alright, I suppose. I've used Natural Steel, Copper, Silver, and Gold and I've only really liked Natural Steel. Metallics in general just don't translate to acrylics well, since the pigments sort of clump up without the assist of an airbrush. Your best bet is probably Testor's enamels, but that runs into smell issues too.
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Dec 19, 2014 15:33
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BlitzBlast posted:They're... alright, I suppose. I've used Natural Steel, Copper, Silver, and Gold and I've only really liked Natural Steel. Humbrol Bronze did a fine job on Metal Gear Rex, I may just go more into them. Sucks that Vallejo's not that great; I've been switching to them from Tamiya simply for ease of use - dropping out drops lets me hit ratios a lot cleaner than toothpicks or pipettes - and it'd be wonderful to be able to do some painting upstairs in the actual house. I don't recall Humbrol stinking too bad, so enamels it is, I suppose!
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Dec 19, 2014 15:41
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The vallejo alcohol-based metallics are some of the best you can get for hand-brushing, but the big thing with them is you can't use water with them AT ALL. You need to clean your brush with alcohol while using them, not water, or you'll completely ruin the paint. They're only for bright golds and silvers, though. http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/liquid-gold/family/11 http://www.thewarstore.com/vallejomodelcolormetalics.html long-ass nips Diane fucked around with this message at 15:52 on Dec 19, 2014 |
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Dec 19, 2014 15:50
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Swagger Dagger posted:The vallejo alcohol-based metallics are some of the best you can get for hand-brushing, but the big thing with them is you can't use water with them AT ALL. You need to clean your brush with alcohol while using them, not water, or you'll completely ruin the paint. They're only for bright golds and silvers, though. If I'm done using them, can I still clean the brush with water once I'm finished?
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Dec 19, 2014 15:59
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MJP posted:Speaking of Vallejo, while Mr. Metallic Color gives amazing results as a handbrushed metallic, I'd like to minimize my use of lacquers - even with a spray booth, it propagates a smell through the rest of the house. The last round of Games Workshop paints before the latest refresh had some really solid acrylic metallics. One of about three good things I can say about GW paints.... I'm not sure if the new line continues that metallic quality, but it may be worth checkng out.
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Dec 19, 2014 16:05
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MJP posted:If I'm done using them, can I still clean the brush with water once I'm finished? Yeah, you just don't want little bits of water that you can't get out of the brush fully to get into the paint. When you're done with metallics for a while you can go back to the normal water routine. Honestly, I just keep an extra size 0 brush around.
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Dec 19, 2014 16:14
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x6VrivGtHBQ So for anyone who's grabbing SOC GaoGaiGar, this will be an informative video on how to properly transform it. Of course, it's also an amazing video to show how much ridiculous engineering went into this thing.
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Dec 19, 2014 17:02
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TaurusOxford posted:So for anyone who's grabbing SOC GaoGaiGar, this will be an informative video on how to properly transform it. Of course, it's also an amazing video to show how much ridiculous engineering went into this thing. Christ, I can't afford this but seeing that retractable lion's mane for the Hell and Heaven pose has me looking at my SRC Gaogaigar in disappointment. Maybe one day.
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Dec 19, 2014 17:47
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I've gone on record saying I love rediculous designs, and I love Unicorns, but what about both? But I think it may be a bit much even for me. (Nah, it owns, I love it)
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Dec 19, 2014 18:15
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Just looking at the build reviews for the Montero and the Ghennam, why does bandai do such obnoxious stickers on some kits. The rear of the feet of the ghennam have a huge sticker that could have easily been another part, and the montero just has lots of odd shaped stickers for the shoulders (so you need to paint it for it to look any good). I ended up having to paint the front section of the waist on my G-Arcane as the stickers looked crap there as well.
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Dec 19, 2014 20:55
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From those images it doesn't even look that bad when compared to the G-Self.
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Dec 19, 2014 21:16
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Cao Ni Ma posted:From those images it doesn't even look that bad when compared to the G-Self. The G-Self is a clear example of a Gundam design that was never meant to be a 1/144 HG. Between the Robot Damashii that will satisfy 1/144 scale collectors, and the inevitable MG that will satisfy 1/100 collectors, HG G-Self has no real purpose besides pro-painters.
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Dec 19, 2014 21:34
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Wibbleman posted:Just looking at the build reviews for the Montero and the Ghennam, why does bandai do such obnoxious stickers on some kits. The rear of the feet of the ghennam have a huge sticker that could have easily been another part, and the montero just has lots of odd shaped stickers for the shoulders (so you need to paint it for it to look any good). I ended up having to paint the front section of the waist on my G-Arcane as the stickers looked crap there as well. Kits that use stickers to help with color separation are the worst!
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Dec 19, 2014 23:29
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Wibbleman posted:Just looking at the build reviews for the Montero and the Ghennam, why does bandai do such obnoxious stickers on some kits. The rear of the feet of the ghennam have a huge sticker that could have easily been another part, and the montero just has lots of odd shaped stickers for the shoulders (so you need to paint it for it to look any good). I ended up having to paint the front section of the waist on my G-Arcane as the stickers looked crap there as well. Cost. It's much cheaper to mold a single part and give you some stickers than it is to make a mold to cast 3 or 4 smaller parts.
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Dec 19, 2014 23:50
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TaurusOxford posted:The G-Self is a clear example of a Gundam design that was never meant to be a 1/144 HG. Between the Robot Damashii that will satisfy 1/144 scale collectors, and the inevitable MG that will satisfy 1/100 collectors, HG G-Self has no real purpose besides pro-painters. Not gonna lie, painting is the sole thing I care when building gunpla. I'm actually considering a way to mod the HG Victory into less-goofy proportions.
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Dec 20, 2014 02:29
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Wibbleman posted:Just looking at the build reviews for the Montero and the Ghennam, why does bandai do such obnoxious stickers on some kits. HGs are conceptually very different from RG/MGs. Their goal isn't to give you a perfect 1/144 representation of the lineart, they're Bandai trying to give you the best approximation they can while keeping costs as low as possible. If that means they print out a sticker sheet instead of spending the time and effort to create an entirely new mold for a couple small pieces, then that's how it is.
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Dec 20, 2014 16:08
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