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Sperglord Firecock posted:Understood. I'm getting a full tool set for Christmas, in addition for a few other neat nifty things and money. Get the Nissan shop manual. I had mine up to 3 years ago, I would have given it to you.  3/8 and 1/2" drive ratchets. 1/4 isn't a bad idea but probably not as important. Adapters between the sizes as well but a kit might come with them. Maybe a breaker bar too. Wrenches, vice grips, pliers, good screwdrivers. Test light, multimeter and learn to use it. A good trouble light. Oil drain pan and filter wrench. I don't recall a ton of allan head fasteners but it's probably not bad to have them. Torque wrench. Magnet and grabby thing on an extendable stick. You will drop nuts, bolts and washers intinto awkward places. That's just off the top of my head and I am sure I am forgetting things. If you are going to learn wrenching, start with maintenence to get your confidence up. Do the fluids. All of them. Change engine oil and filter, diff and rear end. Even power steering. This will tell you more about what the p.o. was like too. Check the brakes and maybe change the brake and clutch fluid too. Learn how to take the electrical connections off without breaking them. When you jack it, be careful where you put the jack. Either do it on a major piece of suspension or a designated jacking point. I have seen people almost put their jacks through the floor before.
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Dec 21, 2014 08:09
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I'd still find out if it is a turbo z31 engine/car. If it is a NA motor with no work done to it, I'd sell. There's a difference in fixing a car that is more stock/original and dealing with age/wear related problems, compared to 'unfixing' a car full off crap, ebay parts PO problems etc
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Dec 21, 2014 08:23
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Fo3 posted:I'd still find out if it is a turbo z31 engine/car. If it is a NA motor with no work done to it, I'd sell. Hey, if he wants to jump into the deep end there's always Megasquirt  That assumes the compression isn't high enough to cause detonation problems. But guys, freshly rebuilt!!! So it must have been done right!  (I've bought 2 "freshly rebuilt" engines from craigslist, now: one that was set up for race gas and had like a 12:1 compression ratio that ate itself alive, as you might expect, and the other one I opened up as soon as I got it home and found 7 spun rod bearings. Don't trust sellers!)
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Dec 21, 2014 13:24
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OP, any chance you can contact the PO and get some specifics as to what went into this rebuild? Parts, specs etc. so you have a better idea where you stand.
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Dec 21, 2014 14:54
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I'm wondering if it's an NA-T or not. Plugs were read, is it rich or lean? Does the car have an A/F gauge? Fix the fan, good call on getting the battery terminal project rolling. A fun beginner project may be an oil change and send the oil off to black stone. See if the motor is happy or if it's eating itself alive.
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Dec 21, 2014 15:32
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Raluek posted:(I've bought 2 "freshly rebuilt" engines from craigslist, now: one that was set up for race gas and had like a 12:1 compression ratio that ate itself alive, as you might expect, and the other one I opened up as soon as I got it home and found 7 spun rod bearings. Don't trust sellers!) Waiting for the obligatory "Hay guyz the engine is making a knocking noise what do I do now?"
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Dec 21, 2014 16:33
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when I first met him he didn't wanna hear otherwise about something being bad . His response was always the motor was just rebuilt. From looking I could tell rebuild may have involved a case of natty ice and a twenty bag of meth. But the more I talked and the more everyone here has told him WTF. I think hes getting that the PO is always a motherfucker and is always willing to lie to make that sale. But he is slightly learning/changing for the better. I myself am heading there after Christmas and taking my tools and knowledge so we can have a more appropriate list of problems.
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Dec 21, 2014 17:07
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Ok, for your clutch control, the problem you've got is that you're moving your leg in just one continous motion, and not feeling for the biting point at all. Here's what to do to practice. Some of this is a repeat, but I'm still going to type it. Go to a nice, big, empty parking lot. Make sure the car is in neutral and start it up. With the engine idling, assuming it is holding idle (from what Southside Saint posted, it may not be), keep your foot off the throttle. Completely. Do not touch the throttle. (If the engine refuses to hold idle, well, that needs fixing, but for the time being, replace the above line with holding it at ~1000rpm unloaded, and leaning your right foot into the transmission tunnel to prevent you adding or removing throttle input, just hold the pedal stationary. This doesn't necessarily mean hold it at 1000rpm as we progress for the next steps, just artificially hold the engine at whatever the lowest speed it will sit unloaded without stalling is) Make sure the handbrake is off. Put the clutch pedal all the way in. Aim to have the pedal depressed by the ball of your left foot, not the middle/arch of it, and with your foot something approaching en pointe, your heel resting on the mat. Select first gear. Pivot your left foot slowly back on the heel, so you're very slowly bringing the clutch pedal up. At some point, the engine revs will start to dip slightly, the car will begin to try and move, and you may feel a slight vibration through the clutch pedal. This is the biting point, where it engages drive to the transmission. Feel exactly where your left foot and clutch pedal are, relative to the clutch being all the way in or out, and how much movement you've really made with your foot. Seriously, I know you want to, don't add any throttle input. Continue to slowly bring the pedal up. You may find that the amount of travel is such that pivoting your foot on the heel isn't going to work, so you're fine to move your entire foot/lower leg, just keep the motion slow and controlled until the clutch pedal is all the way out. The car will be rolling along at a walking pace now. The revs will have stabilised. Put the clutch pedal all the way back in. No need to do it slowly, just push it down. Take the shifter out of first, and into second. To feel it, make it a deliberate, three-stage motion. And out of first. And there is neutral. And into second. Now, just as before, let the clutch up slowly. Can you remember where the biting point is? Were you right? Did the feel match what you remembered, the revs dip a little in the right spot? Good, carry on, clutch slowly out until it's fully out, and the car is rolling itself along slightly faster now it's in second. Repeat up through the gears if you can (it should be able to idle in fifth on the flat, if introduced to the idea gently). Each time, concentrate on correlating where you think the biting point is to where it actually starts taking up drive. Turn around and do it again. Eventually, you'll know where in the motion of your left foot the bite is, and not suffer the lurching/kangaroo routine from a stop. If you shoot, it's maybe similar to knowing where the release point is on a trigger, and having the feel for releasing back just past it after a shot, rather than all the way. It's different for different cars, but the basic idea of what you're feeling for is the same.
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Dec 21, 2014 17:29
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I've got at least a half dozen ohmmeters. I'd be happy to snailmail one of those (guaranteed to be somewhat better than a HF freebie). Don't really have much else that is small and/or cheap to mail.
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Dec 21, 2014 17:36
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The VG30e takes turbo charging fairly well. The compression ratio is still low compared to modern standards. It's all in the tune though....
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Dec 21, 2014 18:10
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Slow is Fast posted:I'm wondering if it's an NA-T or not. Plugs were not read. I suggested reading them in the future. No A/F gauge.
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Dec 21, 2014 18:10
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The other entirely logical option here if the engine is not capable of handling boost is to simply put it back to stock. Will still be a fun car, and much less likely to explode than a hillrod-turbocharged setup. Keep the parts you take off when going N/A, then read up on how to turbo an N/A 300zx properly and start collecting parts... while fixing the rest of the PO's hamfuckery.
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Dec 21, 2014 18:42
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If the PO actually lowered the compression because he wanted to build it for boost, that could be a problem. If he didn't though and it's stock compression, that is a reasonable alternative but instead of boosting it again I'd just sell the parts to some sucker to help recoup some $$.
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Dec 21, 2014 18:45
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kastein posted:The other entirely logical option here if the engine is not capable of handling boost is to simply put it back to stock. Will still be a fun car, and much less likely to explode than a hillrod-turbocharged setup. Keep the parts you take off when going N/A, then read up on how to turbo an N/A 300zx properly and start collecting parts... while fixing the rest of the PO's hamfuckery. This is an awesome idea- but shouldn't we get past 'using a clutch' first?
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Dec 21, 2014 19:23
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Learning to properly drive a stick is the simplest issue he has at this point. It is curious though, the engine and clutch were supposedly rebuilt 5K ago. Really makes me question even more the history of this car and how long ago it was redone.
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Dec 21, 2014 19:43
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I have no idea where to even start but finding the original owner's build thread would probably be rather enlightening. Likely in a depressing way, but better to know than not know.
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Dec 21, 2014 20:17
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If I remember right he said the original owner was from Indianapolis sooo........ I imagine  with a lot of  . although I don't get how he drove it home from there....
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Dec 21, 2014 20:37
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Adiabatic posted:We want to help, but you have to do some loving leg work or we're just going to berate the poo poo out of you. I LOVE that Adiabatic has gone from the Evo ordeal to be something of a standard bearer for how to do AI right. It's as good as how UF now has a successful money making job. And this phrase above, frankly, should be the AI tagline. In fact it'd make a great custom title too. Sperg, a big reason a lot of us get so worked up about this stuff is because most, if not all of us, have at some point blown shitloads of money on crapcans we loved that weren't any better for it at the end. For me it was an '85 4Runner that was amazing until it developed an electric gremlin that I spent way too much time and money on trying to fix it before it finally broke my spirit and I got rid of it because at the time I was 22, lived in an apartment, and couldn't afford two cars. The knowledge and ideas shared above just since your last post are great though, and can help get you on the right track.
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Dec 21, 2014 21:28
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The IRL cool dudes forum *flicks good advice at u*.
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Dec 21, 2014 21:43
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Is there anyone that still tunes these cars?
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Dec 21, 2014 21:47
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G-Mach posted:Is there anyone that still tunes these cars? That's what I was wondering. I think Ken's idea is the best, if it wasn't originally a turbo car put it back to stock. Then down the road if you still want to turbo it do it right.
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Dec 21, 2014 22:46
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slidebite posted:It is curious though, the engine and clutch were supposedly rebuilt 5K ago. You know, I didn't realize how big of a red flag this was until you said something. If the clutch is slipping as bad as Safety Dance says, either the engine was not really rebuilt (or was just "freshened up" in place) or the dude took the time to rebuild the motor but didn't bother putting in a new clutch while he was in there. The former points to lying PO, the latter points towards cut-all-the-corners cheapskate PO, which is not someone whose rebuild I would trust. So either way, you have some fun in store for you.
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Dec 22, 2014 02:39
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Unless it is backed up with receipts (and hopefully a build thread), "rebuilt" anything is always horseshit. Usually means they changed a couple leaky gaskets and maybe the plugs.
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Dec 22, 2014 03:36
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I don't have much to add other than I had an '85 300zx n/a 2+2 that I was so psyched about when I got it when I was 16. I bought it right before the school year ended. I spent the summer riding around, chirping tires, enjoying the t-tops and showing off the digital dash. Then my friend backed his dad's f150 over the hood and right front fender with the headlight up. A block away from home right after that, the clutch pedal lost all pressure. I spent the rest of the summer trying to get the car to move again. I'm 27 now, and the car is still sitting in front of my parents garage with paper temp tags on it still. I'm rooting for you OP.
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Dec 22, 2014 04:28
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As much as everyone is telling me to not do Double Nissan for a beater to drive in winter.... Goddammit, there's a 1987 Nissan Pulsar NX for 1500, and it's bright white and it's calling my name.
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Dec 22, 2014 10:32
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There are at least two NX out here. I see a red one about every 4 months and a white one about every 3. I'm pretty sure that if they are in the same place at the same time the universe will collapse.
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Dec 22, 2014 16:19
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Sperglord Firecock posted:1987 Nissan Pulsar NX for 1500 It also has a "Rebuilt" motor, HIDZZZ, foglights, DRLs, LED turn signals, improperly sized no-brand wheels, "amp hookup and subz", etc. At least have a goon check it out with you before you buy some electronics clusterfuck. Also the owner not including if it's an XE or an SE is a huge red flag because a difference of 52hp is kind of relevant. You're like some sort of magnet for cars POs have hosed with tremendously despite not having any of the knowledge of how to unfuck them. There are so many bone stock Prizms (Corollas) in your area for ~$1000-$2000. An FWD shitbox is an FWD shitbox and you'll appreciate having space to actually store/move poo poo and carry more than one passenger. In addition parts for a 1987 pulsar are not exactly the easiest things to come by because not that many were sold in the US and have still survived. Being able to get parts off of like 5 different cars, many of which have 3-4 examples at a junkyard is no small benefit. puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 17:43 on Dec 22, 2014 |
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Dec 22, 2014 17:04
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Sperglord Firecock posted:As much as everyone is telling me to not do Double Nissan for a beater to drive in winter.... You need to get the nastiest Yugo you can find, preferably with Chinese headlight replacements and some rococo cooling setup.
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Dec 22, 2014 17:13
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Buy an appliance, preferably something that hasn't been hosed with by somebody going the puberty. Something like these might be worth a look: http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/cto/4808229177.html http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/cto/4815820184.html http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/cto/4815888411.html
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Dec 22, 2014 17:30
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Admittedly, I'm really looking for a manual beater. It'll give me more practice. Which, as you can tell, I desperately need.
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Dec 22, 2014 17:57
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You want this. Its a manual, and there is something very, very VERY wrong with it to be going for that price, even for parts. Dive in(to the solid ice) head first! given the replaced parts, my guess is that the valves are (still) bent, the head is warped, and it is pissing fluids faster than you can replace them. Perfect!
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Dec 22, 2014 18:02
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Unless there's some common problem with this year of Sunfire http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/cto/4792975789.html also http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/cto/4809538728.html http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/cto/4806098023.html Coupes are loving dumb as appliance cars but http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/cto/4812686318.html http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/cto/4798044786.html At the sub-2000 price point everything will have some flaws here and there but it's a beater so who cares. Alternatively if you can scrounge some extra cash: http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/cto/4805744610.html Even if you have to get a loan from a family member or some poo poo there's something to be said for having reliable transport around while you fumble with the soul synchro machine. Worst case scenario the appliance car can be sold. puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 18:27 on Dec 22, 2014 |
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Dec 22, 2014 18:15
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Extra posted:Even if you have to get a loan from a family member or some poo poo there's something to be said for having reliable transport around while you fumble with the soul synchro machine. Worst case scenario the appliance car can be sold. That commercial is loving fantastic. I'm actually looking at a CRX for $1000, because I don't like how 90's and 00's civics look and I feel like getting mauled by every car that I own like a red-headed stepchild. COMPLETE WITH EXCEEDINGLY TACKY "GAS, GRASS, OR rear end" STICKER WHERE THE PASSENGER AIRBAG SHOULD BE! fishception fucked around with this message at 18:34 on Dec 22, 2014 |
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Dec 22, 2014 18:31
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Sperglord Firecock posted:
Uhm.. are..eh... are we witnessing the birth of 13"s long lost brother in this thread? 
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Dec 22, 2014 22:31
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You have a box of christmas poo poo coming. it'll be there friday. 
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Dec 22, 2014 23:16
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cursedshitbox posted:You have a box of christmas poo poo coming. it'll be there friday. Yaaay! Again, super thanks for the help. When tools actually arrive/money to get tools arrives, I will start taking stock of what I'm getting.
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Dec 23, 2014 02:19
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Dear lord. http://chicago.craigslist.org/sox/cto/4816131703.html Someone's put up two 1984 Anniversary edition 300ZXs with turbos on them, one of them running, and one of them not, for under 1k. For that price, I could just strip the parts from them and use them to unfuck the PO stuff.
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Dec 23, 2014 02:30
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Nothing about that ad screams 'this is a good idea'. C'mon, man, you don't have the tools to replace a lovely battery cable. Buying and stripping two rollers is a terrible idea and you will be miles out of your depth. Your potential car, indeed.
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Dec 23, 2014 02:33
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Dude as someone who has gone down a road like this with a shitload of project bikes/scooters. its not worth it. Just get a Toyota corolla with a stick for like 1500 maybe a little less. have something boring reliable and stick shift. you will learn and not have to worry about crazy maintenance. Be some automotive sanity, DO IT!!!!! PEER PRESSURE!!!!!
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Dec 23, 2014 02:57
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How much longer until we start pissing in the well?
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Dec 23, 2014 03:07
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