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I think I burned out the heatbed mosfet on my printrboard, there's no voltage across the contacts on the heatbed relay. It's going to be annoying removing the board to test it with a multimeter. I have my RAMPS board here now, though I don't think I'm quite ready to swap that in. Edit: Update, removed the board and tested the forward voltages on both mosfets and they're seemingly fine. The plot thickens. Spookydonut fucked around with this message at 17:22 on Dec 11, 2014 |
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Dec 11, 2014 13:56
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I've got access to a laser cutter, a couple 3d printers, and almost free materials at my work, so I want to use this to make my own 3d printer at home. I've spent a bunch of time at the reprap wiki and narrowed it down to one of three models, and I'm not sure what to try and make. I'd love some advice (if it even matters) as to what to make for my first printer; my primary concern is that I want as much as possible to be laser cut, because it's more likely that I'd get a chance to use lasers than 3d printers; plus, they're way faster. 1) Graber i3 - This is a Prusa i3 that has been redesigned to be 99% laser cut. It's my number one choice, mostly because of how much you can laser; my biggest concern is that frankly, nobody seems to want to talk about them online other than acknowledging that it exists. 2) Ultimaker 1 - Again, it's mostly laser cuttable, and lots of people have them. The biggest benefit here is that Ultimakers apparently are really fast at printing, and get pretty good quality. Biggest downfall seems to be that they're almost exclusively single extruder, and I'd like to be able to add more poo poo in. 3) Mendel90 - Much less can be laser cut, but it seems everyone loving loves the geometry on this. My biggest concern, other than needing to source/print a lot more plastic, is that I've heard a few reports that this can be significantly louder than other models due to the large flat parts working as resonators. So is there any other suggestions out there? I know the LulzBot Taz has all of its parts up for download, but printing can take a really fuckin' long time and for me, it'll be much more expensive.
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Dec 11, 2014 19:46
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Whalley posted:1) Graber i3 - This is a Prusa i3 that has been redesigned to be 99% laser cut. It's my number one choice, mostly because of how much you can laser; my biggest concern is that frankly, nobody seems to want to talk about them online other than acknowledging that it exists. This looks like what my chinese printer was designed on, and the interfaces between the laser cut acrylic and the guide rods for the axises seem really poor.
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Dec 11, 2014 19:55
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MickRaider posted:Have you looked at the printinz plate? Apparently it stick so well you can do small ABS prints without even using a heated bed. Has a metal inlay to work with the inductive probe. I had never heard of the printinz plate, so I went ahead and bought one! After a quick wipe with alcohol it sticks amazingly well, I'm just using a small brim now and I'm backing the temperature off bit by bit. Sometimes the brim lines become super stuck but with a bit of flexing and gentle scraping I get it in the end. The change in the height of the surface forced me to tune my Z height a little better, I tried moving the probe but that caused the end to jam into the plate. I added M565 to the end of my start code and lowered it bit by bit until everything was perfect.
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Dec 11, 2014 20:55
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So I just bought the Velleman K8200 I had asked about a long time ago. The build was pretty simple, and I managed to do it in about 12 hours or so. Now, I want to set up Octoprint, but I don't have a RasPi lying around, and don't really want to buy one to be honest - it would tack on another $100+ that I just don't have right now. However, I do have a lovely old tablet PC that I can toss some flavor of linux on. Does anyone have a guide to installing Octoprint on something that's not a RasPi?
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Dec 11, 2014 23:11
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Whalley posted:I've got access to a laser cutter, a couple 3d printers, and almost free materials at my work, so I want to use this to make my own 3d printer at home. I've spent a bunch of time at the reprap wiki and narrowed it down to one of three models, and I'm not sure what to try and make. I'd love some advice (if it even matters) as to what to make for my first printer; my primary concern is that I want as much as possible to be laser cut, because it's more likely that I'd get a chance to use lasers than 3d printers; plus, they're way faster. 1) Ignore the i3 in favor of the Mendel90. It's the same concept but done worse than the Mendel90. 2) The UM1 can be made dual extruder. I have one, I don't like it. It prints fast but mine just doesn't work well. My other 2 printers work much better. I think I'm in the minority, and I've seen some awesome prints from UM1s. I guy in my hackerspace was trying to self-source one, has been for a year. He gave up and is buying mine instead. 3) Build a Mendel90. I just priced out plastics for a Mendel90 build for a guy changing a Prusa over to a Mendel90. It came to $105 for plastics printed, a $40 bolt kit (from boltdepot.com building from the BOM), and a $25 sheet of 1/2" MDF. This is $170 for the frame, add another $200 for electronics/motors, and $50 for the linear motion (belts, rods, bearings), a $50 hotend, and you're set with a superbly stable platform. The MDF Mendel90 isn't the sexiest machine around. It looks garagey and DIY. I like it because it's so stupid stable and dense, and it's easily modified afterwards (need something? screw it into the wood). The attention to detail is nice, with cable strain and removable connectors planned into places where it's important. It'd be easy to enclose, and it's trivial to scale the size while you're configuring the SCAD.
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Dec 11, 2014 23:29
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TwystNeko posted:So I just bought the Velleman K8200 I had asked about a long time ago. The build was pretty simple, and I managed to do it in about 12 hours or so. There's linux packages for it or you can just compile from source like I did.
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Dec 12, 2014 03:28
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insta posted:I just priced out plastics for a Mendel90 build for a guy changing a Prusa over to a Mendel90. It came to $105 for plastics printed, a $40 bolt kit (from boltdepot.com building from the BOM), and a $25 sheet of 1/2" MDF. This is $170 for the frame, add another $200 for electronics/motors, and $50 for the linear motion (belts, rods, bearings), a $50 hotend, and you're set with a superbly stable platform. You've just said what I already assumed in the back of my head though, so I'll just have to pull apart a CAD drawing of a Mendel90 and see if there's anything else I could make on the lasers. I know enough about woodworking and jointery that I could probably throw in half a dozen supports that are meant to be printed, but yeah... looks like the Mendel90 is the best plan for me. Thanks for the advice!
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Dec 12, 2014 04:19
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Heh, having built a few, cheap printers are the most expensive fuckers you can make. Good luck!
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Dec 12, 2014 06:29
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Oh god I need so much help.  So. the printer works. First print, with the tiny piece of filament they gave me, went just fine. Lifted a tiny bit off the bed at the end, but overall, worked fine. (I did Mr. Jaws). I had a leak on the extruder, but I solved that. Extrusion works 100%, it's calibrated as close as I can get it, and nothing sticks to the bed. I've tried Blue Tape, a glass plate with and without hairspray, I've cleaned everything with rubbing alcohol.. I've tried upping the temp on the heated bed, and changing temps on the extruder. I've tried different slicers - CuraEngine and Slic3r. About the only thing I haven't tried is PVA glue on the glass plate. Suggestions?
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Dec 13, 2014 23:02
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How close is close? Proper Z height is a piece of printer paper will barely drag on the nozzle. Is this PLA? Keep the bed no hotter than 65C, AquaNet super hold hairspray applied to clean glass (not while it's on the printer...). For slic3r, make sure your first layer is 0.3mm and 200% extrusion width.
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Dec 14, 2014 02:34
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I just bought a set of feeler gauges, it's now set to .229mm or as close as I can get to that. it is PLA - my heated bed needs a PSU upgrade, so right now it's limited to about 55c. As for slic3r, I can't seem to find a way to make the first layer extrusion at 200% width. edit: found it. editedit: hooray! got a successful print. Now I need to sort out the issues. The X/Y axes are pretty close , but I'm getting some banding in the Z axis. Also, the top infill is pretty messy. Things on the list: Get the Z-Axis upgrade that velleman sells, and upgrade the heater bed's power supply. There's a few options for that. TwystNeko fucked around with this message at 10:36 on Dec 14, 2014 |
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Dec 14, 2014 09:59
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TwystNeko posted:Does anyone have a guide to installing Octoprint on something that's not a RasPi? The Basic Setup section of the raspi guide on the wiki is actually not very raspi specific (nor is the rest of that guide really), so you can pretty much just use that (substitute the "pi" user for whatever user you want to run octoprint as). I really have to give it a much needed clean up though, it's admittedly become a bit unwieldy. I also want to take the opportunity to clear up a common misconception, just because I'm targeting a pi as the main platform doesn't mean I focus on that exclusively - heck, I even develop mostly on my windows based workstation. Octoprint still is completely platform agnostic (if it runs python, it should in principle be able to run octoprint) and this is going to stay this way (I even introduced the plugin system in the current development version partially to allow for platform specific extensions - like Wifi configuration - while keeping the core application "clean").
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Dec 14, 2014 14:44
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I actually did get it up and running on Debian following that. Still have to figure out a webcam thing for it, but it went pretty smoothly nonetheless.
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Dec 14, 2014 17:33
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Back before my makerbot was a doorstop I looked into octoprint and loved the idea but a scan of the docs didn't give me a good idea of what to do or what I could expect. I'm looking forward to giving it another look next time.
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Dec 16, 2014 08:46
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Hah! A couple posts ago, when I was asking what RepRap to make? I brought up this idea with my boss, and now it looks like I'm going to be given a semi-low-priority to make and build four Mendel90s for the shop, so we can have a lot more poo poo happening at once. Thanks again for the advice!
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Dec 16, 2014 13:06
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I've heard of people using Kinects to scan things. Is there any free software to do this on a Mac? I googled a bit and the only thing I found was pretty expensive.
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Dec 20, 2014 16:43
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Rubiks Pubes posted:I've heard of people using Kinects to scan things. Is there any free software to do this on a Mac? I googled a bit and the only thing I found was pretty expensive. From what I found, all the people doing kinect based scanning went commercial when they realised how lucrative it was. There's one open source project but it's not really complete.
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Dec 20, 2014 17:33
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Something really missing from the toolbox is a way to scan some complex shape to get a 3D model of it, and use that to print an object with a perfectly mating surface - first try (or at least 2nd or 3rd.) Like you said, the pieces are mostly kinda there but it's not done yet.
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Dec 20, 2014 19:25
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Dec 23, 2014 14:03
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You have no idea how jealous I am right now
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Dec 23, 2014 16:06
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That looks like it'll be fun (especially what I presume will be wildly differing temperatures for those filaments)
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Dec 23, 2014 16:08
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Thought people in this thread would appreciate this: the ISS just had a spanner design sent up for their 3D printer: http://www.theinquirer.net/inquirer/news/2387953/space-station-commander-is-emailed-a-much-needed-spanner
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Dec 23, 2014 16:49
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DarkHorse posted:Thought people in this thread would appreciate this: the ISS just had a spanner design sent up for their 3D printer: Someone was giving the astronauts crap for not designing the wrench themselves. Uh dude? They're floating in space doing important science experiments. Time is limited. Lots more people on the ground able to do a cad model in their comfy chair...
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Dec 23, 2014 17:14
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I've heard and seen a lot of good things about the Rostock V2, so I thought I'd blow my Christmas load all at once. The reason those filaments were on clearance, allegedly, was that they're on smaller spools than their new shipments. I'm willing to deal with it, because the price was good ($24 vs $39). Here's hoping it goes well.
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Dec 23, 2014 17:53
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 Mine is still in the box, but my new workbench is now finished and I cleared an area for it's 'final' position, so will start building over the Xmas break.
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Dec 23, 2014 18:49
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ImplicitAssembler posted:
Building a new desk over christmas then I'll have space to assemble mine 
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Dec 23, 2014 19:35
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Why do like 40% of the files on Thingiverse have "Parametric" in the title?
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Dec 23, 2014 22:32
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Because you can alter the dimensions (aka "parameters" ) to customize the part to your preference.
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Dec 23, 2014 22:42
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They're OpenSCAD scripts that move important variables to the top of the file to make them easy to modify. It's the difference between:code:code:
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Dec 23, 2014 22:42
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That makes sense, I thought maybe it was just some doofy word to sound fancier.
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Dec 23, 2014 22:51
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Rubiks Pubes posted:That makes sense, I thought maybe it was just some doofy word to sound fancier. Oh it is. They mostly wanna show off how awesome they are for using openscad
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Dec 23, 2014 23:17
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MickRaider posted:Someone was giving the astronauts crap for not designing the wrench themselves. Not only that, but thy are assuming that the astronaut can design a wrench that works right the first time. If the wrench does not need to hold up to a lot of torque that's great and all, but it would be pretty easy to have a lot of wasted materials and time doing several iterations to get the design right. Thanks to comments on the internet, if it were designed on station someone would point out how astronomical the costs of doing it that way are so there really is no way to win.
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Dec 23, 2014 23:49
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MickRaider posted:Oh it is. They mostly wanna show off how awesome they are for using openscad Solidworks files can also be parametric with named variables.
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Dec 24, 2014 01:55
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Should I be using solodworks? I've done a little sketchup, but it's terrible.
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Dec 24, 2014 01:58
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Geirskogul posted:Should I be using solodworks? I've done a little sketchup, but it's terrible. It is way better, but expensive. If you are a student, you might be able to get it free, though.
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Dec 24, 2014 02:00
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Geirskogul posted:Should I be using solodworks? I've done a little sketchup, but it's terrible. That is kind of the crux with printing now. There is great hardware out there, but the software side of things has some gaps to be filled. If you have access to professional software like solidworks or Creo, you will want to use them. I have not looked at software in a while and I use Creo for modeling. When I look at cheaper software options for crayon a model they seem fairly underwhelming.
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Dec 24, 2014 02:26
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Do we have a CAD thread for me to ask retarded solidworks questions? I've gotten up to speed on extruded boss and extruded cut, and how to put fillets on edges, but I'm having some trouble plugging a circular hole through an existing part, because one end is flat but the other is curved, so my extruded boss comes out as a flat circle.
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Dec 24, 2014 03:25
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mewse posted:Do we have a CAD thread for me to ask retarded solidworks questions? Pictures?
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Dec 24, 2014 07:37
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ante posted:Pictures? Like this:  Existing structure is swept on one side so I do my sketch on the back face, extrude to fill that cylinder, but the extrusion is flat on the opposite end as well so I end up with the thing on the right, I don't know how to get it to match the swept face.
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Dec 24, 2014 07:55
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