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I dunno man. Dropping the clutch in front of a low level drug dealer is about as smart as covering up your blind spots with sideways stickers. Got your info. Forgot I automatically relisted the one ohmmeter, but either way you'll get one. If I can coax it all to fit in a flat rate envelope, you are going to get so much
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Dec 24, 2014 02:14
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Typically, aren't ricers make their cars look fast instead of actually doing performance mods?
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Dec 24, 2014 02:18
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mariooncrack posted:Typically, aren't ricers make their cars look fast instead of actually doing performance mods? Yes or they do it to a vehicle that will never ever ever have a chance of being decent. Or the only chance the vehicle has of going fast is off the side of a tall cliff.
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Dec 24, 2014 02:24
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Sperglord Firecock posted:honestly believe that their ratty Honda Civic "COULD TOTALLY BEAT THAT CLASSIC MUSTANG IN A DRAG BRO, RACEU FO PINKU SURIPU".
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Dec 24, 2014 02:40
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^^^ that is very true. But how many of the civics you see today actually have a strong power plant behind them not just a swapped VTEC with an AEM intake. I love properly done civics. around Chicago that's a ratio of 1 to 1000 tho.
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Dec 24, 2014 02:42
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InitialDave posted:In fairness, Doogle's ratty Civic would romp all over most Mustangs. There are cars that are done right, and there are cars that are done wrong. There are a LOT of cars that can be done VERY wrong. That's my philosophical speech about cars for the day. I want my car to be done right, and I don't really wanna do any appearance stuff other than louvers on the rear window, because louvers are cool as poo poo. I didn't end up taking down the T-Tops and driving around town, because I was way too sleepy, and took a nap.
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Dec 24, 2014 02:44
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Sperglord Firecock posted:because louvers are cool as poo poo. smartest thing youve said in this whole loving thread
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Dec 24, 2014 03:01
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Sperglord Firecock posted:I want my car to be done right, and I don't really wanna do any appearance stuff other than louvers on the rear window, because louvers are cool as poo poo.   $1000 near Billings. E: v- 
West SAAB Story fucked around with this message at 04:16 on Dec 24, 2014 |
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Dec 24, 2014 03:03
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mariooncrack posted:Typically, aren't ricers make their cars look fast instead of actually doing performance mods? They do do performance mods, it's just that they're always 100% chinesium mods of dubious reliability and efficacy. Kinda like poorly converting an NA 300ZX to turbo with the cheapest eBay parts on the stock tune and injectors and replacing the stock fan with shoddily wired electric fans with no thermal switching.
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Dec 24, 2014 04:14
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HotCanadianChick posted:replacing the stock fan with shoddily wired electric fans with no thermal switching. poo poo. I remember when I built an automagical fan from RadioShack for my grandparents using a thermistor. I was like 8, and dealing with 120VAC. I swear I've never worked on this car.
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Dec 24, 2014 04:18
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HotCanadianChick posted:on the stock tune and injectors Do we know this? The ECU could be chipped, right? I mean I know we can probably assume the PO is a lying shitsack for a variety of reasons, but figuring out if it has a tune seems like a good thing to do. I assume the stock ECU isn't flexible like an LS1 and so would need a physical chip mod, right?
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Dec 24, 2014 04:22
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Raluek posted:Do we know this? The ECU could be chipped, right? I mean I know we can probably assume the PO is a lying shitsack for a variety of reasons, but figuring out if it has a tune seems like a good thing to do. I assume the stock ECU isn't flexible like an LS1 and so would need a physical chip mod, right? From what I gathered from Mafoose's posts earlier, doing it right with a proper tune requires a new ECU and/or equipment that would cost more than the entirety of the rest of the aftermarket parts on it, so like him, I'm guessing chances of it being properly retuned are slim to none.
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Dec 24, 2014 04:33
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Stop with the in-fighting. The clutch will be completely roasted long before it seizes.
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Dec 24, 2014 04:34
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Viggen posted:Stop with the in-fighting. The clutch will be completely roasted long before it seizes. I'm not worried about it seizing, I'm worried about either a rod trying to escape because it was rebuilt with beer cans for bearings, or all the rings (maybe even a bonus piston) breaking into a million pieces from running too lean/advanced/high compression on boost. E: Although, I guess running it without a water pump for who knows how long can lead to seizing it up. Good call. Forgot about that already, even though I was just worrying about that a couple days ago. So many things to keep track of in this thread. Raluek fucked around with this message at 04:42 on Dec 24, 2014 |
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Dec 24, 2014 04:37
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Viggen posted:Stop with the in-fighting. The clutch will be completely roasted long before it seizes. I'm far less worried about destroying the clutch ever since I started driving it better, so less worries there.
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Dec 24, 2014 05:19
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Sperglord Firecock posted:I'm far less worried about destroying the clutch ever since I started driving it better, so less worries there. Clutches don't start slipping like that just because you are learning to drive stick on it. Homeboy put the original clutch back on when he installed the freshly rebuilt motor, or he didn't rebuild it at all.
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Dec 24, 2014 05:35
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Sperglord Firecock posted:I'm far less worried about destroying the clutch ever since I started driving it better, so less worries there. I thought other AI-er's have said the clutch slips and feels 'off'? That's not driver error BTW, it's either a worn clutch, bad adjustment*, or a leaking rear main oil seal putting oil into the clutch. *You have said the clutch friction point is way near the top of pedal travel IIRC, so could be just adjustment needed or can be done (don't remember/know the set up on these cars personally).
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Dec 24, 2014 09:38
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Fo3 posted:I thought other AI-er's have said the clutch slips and feels 'off'? TBH, my troubleshooting method with this car when there are multiple things that could go wrong is going to be look at the easiest to fix option first, and then look at everything else, mostly because the easier it is to fix, the less time I will have to spend on fixing it, thus more time that my car can spend going fast instead of sitting in my driveway looking very cool but not going fast. This may not be the coolest method of working on the car, but I suspect it will be the most efficient method. How hard is it to check the adjustment and/or fix said adjustment?
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Dec 24, 2014 11:06
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Sperglord Firecock posted:TBH, my troubleshooting method with this car when there are multiple things that could go wrong is going to be look at the easiest to fix option first... Better to do it right the first time, in order of what is going to cause the most expensive damage if it's broken/not right first up. Do not repair based on whatever is the easiest/cheapest job to do. Do it right based on importance (or sell it). I'm not sure about the clutch as I said, but plenty of people here seem to know this model better than me, listen to them. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 11:17 on Dec 24, 2014 |
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Dec 24, 2014 11:14
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Fo3 posted:Better to do it right the first time, in order of what is going to cause the most expensive damage if it's broken/not right first up. Do not repair based on whatever is the easiest/cheapest job to do. Do it right based on importance (or sell it). I mean, obviously, yeah, If something is seriously broke the gently caress up, I'm not gonna just stick some duct tape over it. But if it comes down to, say, the idling issue, and I have the choice of taking apart the entire engine to see if I can spot the issue or just fiddling with some valves to spot the issue, I'm gonna fiddle with some valves first before going into full-on hilarious work to determine if that's the issue. I'd hate to have to take apart an entire engine only to find out that the engine isn't the issue, and it's a really simple and easy fix. But if it comes down to having to do some serious heavy-duty work to make it a (relatively) reliable driving car, I'm not gonna back down from the heavy-duty work. I'm seeing this through, despite everyone's insistence that I should sell it. Your objections only make my resolve stronger.
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Dec 24, 2014 11:22
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I'm not objecting, whether you get with the program and fix it, or sell it, both the same to me. Do one or the other, don't piss fart around ignoring issues. But when I said fix in order of importance you commented "something is seriously broke the gently caress up". That wasn't what I meant, I meant preventative fixes before things get broke the gently caress up. Old cars can be expensive, they can be more expensive if you have to do things the wrong way, long way, twice etc. I can only advise generally as I have never had a z31 (but worked on other nissans and owned a couple of datsuns as well as mazdas and fords). Listen to people here that are familiar with the z31 and do things in the order they say.
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Dec 24, 2014 11:44
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Fo3 posted:I'm not objecting, whether you get with the program and fix it, or sell it, both the same to me. Do one or the other, don't piss fart around ignoring issues. Sorry. Had a few drinks, kinda a bit woo right now. Hopefully I didn't come across as a giant jerk, but the entire objection part was more directed towards the people that are like, "SELL IT, IT'S A MONEY PIT". I'm also posting this on Z31 specialist forums to get some idea of what I really need to work on on that front.
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Dec 24, 2014 11:53
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Sperglord Firecock posted:Sorry. I've followed this thread since the beginning and still feel selling it is the best decision. I admire your willingness to learn, but you really jumped in on the deep end here. Z31s can be a challenge to begin with, but you choose one that's highly and questionably modified. You really have little to no idea what your working with, and that makes things really complicated. Luckily you have some really knowledgeable individuals who are willing to help you. Don't piss them off.
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Dec 24, 2014 16:34
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Sperglord Firecock posted:Hopefully I didn't come across as a giant jerk, but the entire objection part was more directed towards the people that are like, "SELL IT, IT'S A MONEY PIT". Yeah because gently caress good advice right in the rear end bro!
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Dec 24, 2014 16:41
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Sperglord Firecock posted:Sorry. If you are fine with that, knock yourself out. Did you ever post the VIN or look it up yourself to confirm if it was originally a Turbo or not? Raluek posted:Do we know this? The ECU could be chipped, right? I mean I know we can probably assume the PO is a lying shitsack for a variety of reasons, but figuring out if it has a tune seems like a good thing to do. I assume the stock ECU isn't flexible like an LS1 and so would need a physical chip mod, right? A system like a megasquirt or some sort of piggyback system would really be the only thing a person could reasonably do and I strongly doubt that anything like that was done.
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Dec 24, 2014 17:01
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leica posted:Yeah because gently caress good advice right in the rear end bro! yeah because sell the car you love and want to learn on is great advice. Yes hes a little stubborn about stuff but hes learning. hes gone from what do I do im stuck in this well. too oh a rope ok ill try to grab it and cover it with mud. so learning but not at the best speeds. Sure hes gonna get upset when everyone is telling him to sell his car. Everyone has a car like this once in there life. What I don't get is why is everyone here still beating the dead horse of selling the car and getting a beater. He wants this body style and motor of car. Hes willing to sacrifice his sanity to a turbo Nissan. For a forum that is automotive insanity we sure are having a lot of Debbie downers acting all automotively sane.
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Dec 24, 2014 17:13
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He's gonna blow the engine while trying to show off to a homeless guy drinking a 40 in an empty parking lot.
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Dec 24, 2014 17:28
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slidebite posted:Unless something drastically changed since I had a Z31, those ECUs couldn't really be "chipped" and the aftermarket electronic go-fast goodies that were made for it were minimal, if any. My vote is on megasquirt especially if this is an NA-T setup with an vented to air BOV.
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Dec 24, 2014 18:07
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Now that you mention it, I do remember Jim Wolf doing something. This was back in the day before the internet was really big so that's my excuse 
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Dec 24, 2014 18:10
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Update: Maybe uh oh? I dunno. Just got a bit of advice from the Z31 forum, they mentioned to double-check the VIN to ensure it wasn't a later model of 300ZX that I was dealing with here, mostly because the engine and front sheet metal look more akin to a later ('87-'88) model of Z31 rather than the '86. Turns out that it's not an '86, it was an '85 model year before the rather extensive engine change-out and reshaping (?) of the front end to match a later year, unless my counting is fuckered, which I don't think it is. Used this little guide to determine it. http://nissanhelp.com/diy/common/nissan_vin.php I'm admittedly not SUPER worried about it, mostly because it's not that big of a deal if it doesn't look exactly like the earlier model of Z31. The real question comes into play, though, is where did the engine come from, and is the engine actually built to handle the turbo, and what computer/EFI fuckery was done to make the Frankensteinian construction work?
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Dec 24, 2014 18:11
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If it's an 85, the PO did a lot of work on the body to convert it to an 86. Take a look at the quarters and rockers of yours:  and compare to an 85 http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/28/CleanZ31.jpg It's not impossible though. Does the VIN plate on the shock tower tell you the model year? There might be another plate on the inside of the frame of the drivers door too. Compare the VIN # on the plate to the # on your dash. Also, did the VIN show as a Turbo? 84-85 Non-turbos had 4 stud hubs, Turbos had 5 studs. slidebite fucked around with this message at 18:32 on Dec 24, 2014 |
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Dec 24, 2014 18:22
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Sperglord Firecock posted:I'm admittedly not SUPER worried about it, mostly because it's not that big of a deal if it doesn't look exactly like the earlier model of Z31. The real question comes into play, though, is where did the engine come from, and is the engine actually built to handle the turbo, and what computer/EFI fuckery was done to make the Frankensteinian construction work? This is literally what half the posts the last few pages have been about. And the simple answer is... there is no answer, aside from maybe reverse-engineering the computer mods if you knew a lot about electrical stuff (you don't). Without receipts, you have no idea what's been done to this engine that was presented as a factory turbo model. It could be freshly rebuilt but to stock specs, it could be properly strengthened to handle the strain from boosting, it could be a half-rear end re-seal job, or maybe nothing was done to it at all, and you don't and can never know. Without that knowledge (I know you don't want to sell the car, period), I'd be strongly considering either parking it or just staying out of boost until you can either yank the motor and have it built to your specs (expensive, lots of machine shop time) or remove the turbo stuff and convert it back to NA (cheaper, but still the potential for fuckery to crop up and bite you in the rear end, and obviously you'll lose power.) Ultimately we can't tell you what to do, because it's up to you to decide the best course of action, but all signs currently point to this being a hackjob that may or may not blow an engine before you've driven it 2,000 miles. Basically, start saving your money.
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Dec 24, 2014 18:26
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Was the VIN stamped on the inside of the remains of a cola can and attached with pop rivets?
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Dec 24, 2014 18:29
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This thread is like "Whose on First?" But with cars.
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Dec 24, 2014 18:47
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My understanding is that the lower compression of the turbo motor compared to the NA is from dished pistons rather than flat ones, so an endoscope camera would let you see down through a plug hole and check that out? Also, wouldn't a factory turbo car have the word "Turbo" moulded into the rear panel above the number plate? I can't imagine that's something people would swap unless they were swapping everything.
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Dec 24, 2014 19:05
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SouthsideSaint posted:yeah because sell the car you love and want to learn on is great advice. Yes hes a little stubborn about stuff but hes learning. hes gone from what do I do im stuck in this well. too oh a rope ok ill try to grab it and cover it with mud. so learning but not at the best speeds. Sure hes gonna get upset when everyone is telling him to sell his car. Everyone has a car like this once in there life. What I don't get is why is everyone here still beating the dead horse of selling the car and getting a beater. He wants this body style and motor of car. Hes willing to sacrifice his sanity to a turbo Nissan. For a forum that is automotive insanity we sure are having a lot of Debbie downers acting all automotively sane. I ultimately don't give a gently caress what he does with the car, but suggesting he sell it and cut loses is not bad advice in this case, sorry. And waving the NOT INSANITY!! flag is dumb considering the OP has no clue what he's doing, 13" Dick punishing himself with a BiTurbo would be different because he actually knows what he's doing. Telling someone with no automotive experience whatsoever to dive head first into a basket case might be great for our entertainment for us but it's not exactly going to be the best advice for the OP in this case. But yeah we're debbie downers for being realistic and not INSANITY 
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Dec 24, 2014 19:11
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InitialDave posted:My understanding is that the lower compression of the turbo motor compared to the NA is from dished pistons rather than flat ones, so an endoscope camera would let you see down through a plug hole and check that out? Pretty sure you are correct, they were dished pistons.... I think down to 7.8:1 or something. That rear panel would be pretty easy to swap as I think they were only held on with double sided body tape. For someone who threw a 87-88 front end on for kicks, they could have done that. I also think the Turbo tail lights were a little darker/smoked compared to the non-turbo. However, this would be really easy to put to rest once and for all if he could tell us if if it was a factory turbo from his VIN or if he could just post his VIN here. http://z31.com/vin.shtml Actually, now that I think about it I think the VIN plate under the hood even says which engine it came equipped with. It should say VG30ET or something like that (maybe with brackets) if it's a turbo.
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Dec 24, 2014 19:20
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leica posted:And waving the NOT INSANITY!! flag is dumb considering the OP has no clue what he's doing, 13" Dick punishing himself with a BiTurbo would be different because he actually knows what he's doing. Telling someone with no automotive experience whatsoever to dive head first into a basket case might be great for our entertainment for us but it's not exactly going to be the best advice for the OP in this case. Agreed. This kid has no job and no money. He just poo poo out somewhere $5k on a car that will likely eat itself before he gets farther than the state line if it even goes that far. He doesn't know how to fix it- he doesn't even have the tools to tear it apart to try to see how bits work when it does break. AI may be full of assholes (there are a few of us pricks here), but I don't believe anyone in AI wishes this guy sitting on the side of the road sobbing in a puddle of various fluids, even if it would match so well with his pajama pants. He wants to learn? Awesome. Starting with this, LIKE this is probably going to end in tears. Most of us have been trying to obtain information to see how we may assist, but when he can't even take pictures of parts or relay information that can be easily obtained by walking outside and bending a bit? We lose faith in both the OP, and the possibilities of this ending positively. That, and start wondering exactly who is hoodwinking who. 
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Dec 24, 2014 19:24
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slidebite posted:Pretty sure you are correct, they were dished pistons.... I think down to 7.8:1 or something. It's not a factory turbo. I thought I already said that. Oh well.
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Dec 24, 2014 19:35
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Here's a project that helped me a lot: Buy a scooter or some other small driving appliance. Take out the motor (my 80cc honda motor weighed about 50lbs.) Take it apart on your kitchen table and then put it back together. You'll learn a buttload of stuff. - How to rebuild a carburetor - How to set valve lash - How to find top dead center - How to pull a flywheel - How to remove and replace piston rings - How to keep track of fasteners, or replace fasteners that disappeared They're SUPER simple to work on, and you'll know most every part of the system once you're done. With the factory service manual NOTHING is impossible to do at home, and the manual is available for free online. Or you could buy a lawn mower and learn all the same stuff I guess, but I had more fun with the scooter. You could also use the scooter to go to the parts store when your turbo explodes or whatever.
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Dec 24, 2014 19:40
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