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Twerk from Home posted:The Pontiac Vibe and Toyota Matrix is a Corolla wagon. If you want a Corolla wagon, that's what you should get. My dad had a Matrix for a number of years--didn't realize it was a Corolla. Alright then.
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Dec 27, 2014 23:03
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LeeMajors posted:My dad had a Matrix for a number of years--didn't realize it was a Corolla. Alright then. Apparently it's official name was even Toyota Corolla Matrix. The Pontiac Vibe is a value play, and even the Pontiac only cosmetic bits should be easy to find for a decade at least.
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Dec 27, 2014 23:08
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Throatwarbler posted:Or a Ford Fusion which is essentially the same car made in the same plant with the same parts. No wagon
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Dec 27, 2014 23:27
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I'm looking to replace the '99 Camry with something safer for the dogs (I usually have at least one in the car for ~200 miles each week, mostly highway driving). Proposed Budget: Up to mid-20s New or Used: Either Body Style: Prefer wagon, willing to settle for SUV/CUV. How will you be using the car?: Dog hauler and daily driver What aspects are most important to you? I'm looking for a car that will fit a L double Variocage in the cargo area, preferably one that has a little room for increased length. Beyond that, fuel efficiency is the highest priority. Must have cruise control, nice to have a back-up camera. On my list now is the 2014 Prius v and the 2015 Outback 2.5i. I was looking at the Forester, but the cargo length is an issue. Anything I should add to my list?
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Dec 28, 2014 17:25
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My 2007 Saturn Ion went into the dealer for a Recall notice, and came out with a diagnostic showing compression problems in two of my engine chambers. Seeing that it's a salvage vehicle to begin with, I'm not keen on shoveling out 1200 for a teardown + cost of repairs. I think I can get 800 from a salvage op to cart it away, and family is willing to help out with a 4-5,000 down payment for something. I'm in Los Angeles, so I'll need a car for work. Even though I work like 10 miles from home, it'd be a 2 hour commute thanks to our wonderful transit system. Proposed Budget: max of about $16,000 - with tax and title. $4,800 down. New or Used: I'm not too keen on new, considering i'd spaz out over damages to a new car (plus depreciation), but some of the new cars I've seen (Chevy Spark/Sonic) come out at about the price of a good used... so I can be convinced to go new. Body Style: Prefer smaller cars, hatchbacks are fine. Coupe style would be good, but I haven't seen too much like that. How will you be using the car?: Mostly to and from work, maybe driving with my wife to places on weekends and after work. Would prefer something with bluetooth/aux in, and a center console information system that doesn't look like it's ripped from a gameboy screen. What aspects are most important to you? Would prefer something with decent MPG, with a small footprint. A used car with less than 75,000 miles would be sweet. Not a prius oh god please no. I've looked at the Ford Fiesta, the Chevy Spark/Sonic hatch. They're decent. FilthyImp fucked around with this message at 00:51 on Dec 29, 2014 |
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Dec 29, 2014 00:34
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melon cat fucked around with this message at 05:37 on Mar 16, 2019 |
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Dec 29, 2014 00:46
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It's interesting that both of your pieces of advice are exact opposite of what gets said in this thread over and over again.
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Dec 29, 2014 01:11
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Complaining about Mazda 3 build quality and recommending an Accent. Also stating a Prius is expensive to own. All of these are bad statements.
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Dec 29, 2014 01:19
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melon cat fucked around with this message at 05:37 on Mar 16, 2019 |
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Dec 29, 2014 01:36
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The mechanic probably means the battery on the Prius, which is indeed expensive to repair/replace
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Dec 29, 2014 02:00
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FilthyImp posted:My 2007 Saturn Ion went into the dealer for a Recall notice, and came out with a diagnostic showing compression problems in two of my engine chambers. Seeing that it's a salvage vehicle to begin with, I'm not keen on shoveling out 1200 for a teardown + cost of repairs. I think I can get 800 from a salvage op to cart it away, and family is willing to help out with a 4-5,000 down payment for something. You're on point with the Fiesta, or a Focus, or you should very much look at a Mazda3, especially given the oh god no not a Prius thing. You can get a nice used Mazda3 in your price range. That guy with an admittedly cute avatar of a cat pushing a melon is the post equivalent of a Fiat 500 or Mini; they're cute but utter garbage. I mean other than that Hyundais are perfectly fine if that's what you want, but the quality is not up to what a Mazda is at.
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Dec 29, 2014 02:27
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A Prius may be expensive to repair, but it is quite likely that you'll only have one repair in 100k mi (waterump, which by now has been replaced with a better part in 99‰ of cars). The battery is expensive, but it will last 200k mi (and has an extremely long warranty if first sold in a CARB state). It also isn’t as expensive as most people forget that the battery has a massive core charge which is refunded when you return the used battery. Also, there are now aftermarket sources that are cheaper. Also, the Mazda 3 is an excellent, well built car that I would pretty much recommend against any competeing car of the same year since they started making them (unless you live in rust country). Hyundais and Kiss are fine. You get a lot of toys for your buck, but dynamically they are poor. They have not been out long enough on the current cars to asses rust, if that is a concern. The depreciate like rocks, and I don't think the warranty transfers. nm fucked around with this message at 02:32 on Dec 29, 2014 |
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Dec 29, 2014 02:28
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nm posted:The battery is expensive, but it will last 200k mi (and has an extremely long warranty if first sold in a CARB state). It also isn’t as expensive as most people forget that the battery has a massive core charge which is refunded when you return the used battery. Also, there are now aftermarket sources that are cheaper. They're still 2 grand with core. But I'm pretty sure I'd read people saying they work fine even when they're down to like 40 percent of their original capacity, and I know I've heard of people getting near their original MPG in 1st generation Honda Insights with almost-dead batteries.
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Dec 29, 2014 05:07
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VideoTapir posted:They're still 2 grand with core. But I'm pretty sure I'd read people saying they work fine even when they're down to like 40 percent of their original capacity, and I know I've heard of people getting near their original MPG in 1st generation Honda Insights with almost-dead batteries. As I understand it, the MPG gains are basically from the engine always operating in its most efficient mode because the battery is operating as a glorified capacitor feeding power to the drivetrain as needed. That wouldn't seem to take much capacity to moderate the power demands. Oh and regenerative braking if traffic sucks/local driving.
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Dec 29, 2014 05:22
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I guess ya'll want trip reports, so here goes. I'll probably come off pretty defensive here, because this was my first used-car-buying experience and I'm not at all confident in my decision-making here. Before I really got started, I said to myself, "ya know, I bet shopping for used cars really isn't so bad as people say it is..." but after a week of this poo poo I'm certain I'd die a happy man if I never laid eyes on another dealership ever again. Anyhow, after my post on December 20th, my wife and I went out to do some test driving. We scratched the Audi A4, Volvo C30, and Subaru Impreza off our list (retail value and cost-of-ownership too high). The Prius and Honda Fit survived as definite "maybes," but we really fell in love with the Mazda3. So I dove into the books, did my research, and set about trying to find a good deal on the Mazda3. Before I get any further, I should disclose some biases in my thought process. I won't even look at a car if it's not a hatchback. Having owned one, I don't think I'll ever tolerate a regular sedan. I made extensive use of the extra space in my last car, whether for moving furniture, shuttling my wife's unwieldy art projects, or for our camping trips. Also, perhaps to my fiscal detriment (considering the rock-bottom gas prices these days), fuel economy is pretty important to me. That's probably pretty silly for a fella who only has a <25 mile roundtrip commute, but everyone has their own stupid principles. So I decided that I really, really wanted a 2012 or 2013 Mazda3 i Touring Hatchback. The sedan won't cut it. And though I looked at a lot of 2011s, I preferred the big boost in fuel efficiency that came with the later model years. Looking at KBB, NADA, and Edmunds, I knew it wouldn't be easy to get one in my budget of ~15k out-the-door, but it didn't seem impossible. It's the end of the year, after all, and I was willing to go the distance to find the right deal. So I checked all the listings, worked the phones, and visited drat near every lead in a 90 mile radius. I drove out from Tampa to see cars in Port Richey, Sarasota, Orlando, etc. But Mazda3 hatchbacks are rare. Maybe 1/10 of all the Mazda3s for sale were hatchbacks, and they commanded a premium of $2k-$4k (!) over their sedan cousins. What I hadn't expected was the complete refusal of every salesperson I spoke with to make a drat deal. "Carfax says it's been sitting on your lot for 40 days already... I noticed that the last owner was a rental company... So-and-so has an identical one listed $500 below your price... The headlights are flickering... Where are the floor mats??" No matter what I said, all I ever got was "No, the internet price is our best. price." The only '12-'13 Mazda3 hatchbacks below $15k (pre-fees+tax) had accidents on their records. The best I could find was a 2011 CPO Mazda3 s hatchback with 41k miles for $14k before fees+tax, but it had some anomalies (why have the brakes already been replaced 3 times? those floor mats are going to cost like $100 to replace. sure are a lot of scratches on this car...). It was in a color that a didn't like, but that wouldn't have stopped me had the price been right. I'd also been jerked around by a few dealerships that claimed to have a particular car in stock when they actually didn't. So I gave up on the Mazda3 hatchback. After all, this was my last weekend before 2015, and if nobody wants to deal now, they sure as hell won't want to deal in January. I set my eyes on the Prius next, but I ruled that one out pretty quickly, too. People around my neck of the woods overprice these pretty severely. Next I did some shopping around for Honda Fits. Not my first choice car, but I appreciated its practicality, reliability, and the steering, suspension, and overall handling actually reminded me a lot of my old RSX. After consulting with my wife, dad, and some friends, I purchased a 2013 CPO Honda Fit base model with 20k miles for $15.4k out-the-door. The salesman was very accommodating (I know it's all an act, but after dealing with some of the planet's most condescending assholes for a week I'm not going to pretend like I didn't appreciate his friendly demeanor). Anyway, I guess an ok deal, but not a great one. I'm feeling pretty lovely about the whole ordeal, and I'll be agonizing over whether I made the right decision for a few weeks because I'm an anxious motherfucker. But I'm glad it's finally over.
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Dec 29, 2014 06:27
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Are sales people less likely to work with you on price simply because you've done your market research already? i.e. the internet price is the "market researcher's price" and the lot price is 15% higher than that, so they can pad their margin for walk-ins who haven't done real research?
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Dec 29, 2014 06:51
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Van Cleef posted:" No matter what I said, all I ever got was "No, the internet price is our best. price. Also fun is throwing a salesman a price point up front, having them deny it outright, then having them come back a week later and say "Hey here's a car that's pretty close to your price range only +3,000!" and toss around the "no sorry can't discount any more" when you remind them you're not willing to go that high. Like, why waste our time, man.
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Dec 29, 2014 07:53
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FilthyImp posted:
Same reason spammers still spam； that one guy in however many attempts who goes for it makes all the rejections worth it.
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Dec 29, 2014 08:56
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If you're coming in off the internet having done your research, then you're not only trying to get a car at a price way below where they expect to sell it, but F&I likely can't make any money off you. If you're trying to beat KBB price, then yeah, you should expect some frustration. The salesman doesn't have any incentive to move a car just because it's been sitting on the lot, he's going to get roasted way worse by management for not getting enough out of the deal than to not make that sale.
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Dec 29, 2014 14:55
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Hadlock posted:Are sales people less likely to work with you on price simply because you've done your market research already? i.e. the internet price is the "market researcher's price" and the lot price is 15% higher than that, so they can pad their margin for walk-ins who haven't done real research? This is certainly the case. A few salespeople basically said this, but of course they weren't so candid about it. disheveled posted:If you're coming in off the internet having done your research, then you're not only trying to get a car at a price way below where they expect to sell it, but F&I likely can't make any money off you. If you're trying to beat KBB price, then yeah, you should expect some frustration. The salesman doesn't have any incentive to move a car just because it's been sitting on the lot, he's going to get roasted way worse by management for not getting enough out of the deal than to not make that sale. You're right about all of that. Like I said, I knew it wouldn't be easy, but I was optimistic because it's the end of the year and I had a broad search area. It's my understanding that the Edmunds, NADA, etc. Fair Price is an average, so presumably some people get lower prices. I saw the Fair Price as a middling deal for a middling car. A lot of the cars I looked at had blemishes of varying degree (high mileage for its age, rental company on the title, worn interior, what have you), but nobody was willing dip on their Mazda3 hatchbacks. KBB outputs a range of market values, and I would have gladly paid a price in the lower end of the KBB fair spectrum for a used (non-CPO) '12 Mazda3 i hatchback. I'll also note that I had a very different experience when I was looking at Honda Fits. I spoke to fewer dealers about the Fit, but all of them were willing to dip below the vaunted internet price. The disparity in supply also contributed, I guess. Compared to the Fit, there's a relative dearth of Mazda3 hatchbacks. I'm sure no one knows that better than the dealers.
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Dec 29, 2014 16:38
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The used car market is still out of whack, especially when it comes to lightly used fuel efficient smaller vehicles and what you experienced is pretty normal to be honest. Some feedback on your trip report 1: You're targeting a somewhat rare vehicle, in a very recent model year. Not many people trade their cars in after 1 or 2 years, so I'm not surprised most of the cars you see were formal rentals. Generally after 30 months you start to see more inventory as cars get traded in and come off lease. I spent 6 months finding the car I wanted when I bought my current car earlier this year. 2: Your depending on bullshit information. I loving hate KBB. Dealers know what cars are selling for in their local markets and price them appropriately. Just because KBB says a car is worth is worth X doesn't make it true. Zillow says my house is worth 40 grand less than it really is, should I be expected to sell my house to someone because a bullshit website says it's only worth that? No. 3: The internet has changed the car buying process. Many dealers have their best price posted online because they know how easy it is to shop dealers. The local dealer I deal with often has cars priced 3 to 4K more on the lot than their 'internet pricing' on the website. 4: Used cars sales are different than new car sales. It matters less what time of year or month when buying a used car. New car sales often have incentives from the manufacturer for selling X number of cars in a month, but no such incentive is there for the used market. There are more costs associated with selling a used car than selling a new one fresh off the truck. Now if you wanted to go buy a new Ford in the next 2 days, the deals are going to be insane. Local place is advertising brand new 2015 Fusions at 15,995 and 2014 Focus SE's at 12,995. Focus Hatchbacks are starting at 15,995 right now. We're talking 25% off MSRP almost. I would go to cargurus.com and setup an email alert for the exact vehicle you want. You can specify trim/color/year etc, and check it every day. That or go drive a Focus Hatchback and see what kind of insane deal you can get from Ford right now. (disclaimer: My last 5 vehicles have been Ford, and I like their current products) Finding a specific deal on a specific car can take a lot of time (I spent 6 months finding mine). While used car shopping can be a terrible experience and very frustrating in your case I think you went into it with some unrealistic expectations on pricing which contributed greatly to your frustration. Here's a quick rundown on how I bought my last car. I wanted a very specific vehicle. I wanted a 2013 or newer Taurus SHO, lightly used, preferably CPO, in the 30,000 dollar range, in either white or black with a specific set of rims and a specific option package. My car at the time was great, no reason to get out of it, but I was in a position if I happened to find the right deal on an SHO I could jump on it. I setup the Cargurus.com alert with a 200 mile radius (to include Houston) and checked every few days. I bookmarked the used vehicle sections of the 3 closest Ford dealers and checked those weekly. A few of them came up from time to time but not at the price range I wanted. I looked at a couple of vehicles that fit my criteria over the months, but one was owned by a former cigar smoker and that car was ruled out. The other wasn't the right color and didn't have the right rims. Then one day the carguru email came in, the exact car I wanted, at the price I wanted, 15 minutes away. It took almost 6 months to find it, but I snapped it up the next day. tl;dr, if you want a specific car and a specific deal be prepared to wait.
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Dec 29, 2014 17:35
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What are the real benefits in using a broker to get a car? Mostly time? A couple guys at my work used one to get their vehicles and we're really happy with doing it mostly because everything was all finalized with no bullshit back and forth. One got a new pathfinder and the other got an xc70 that was a couple years old. Both felt they could have saved maybe a couple (three) hundred more but the time saving was worth it. Thinking I might do that when I settle on what car to get, just let a broker get the best deal from whatever dealership.
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Dec 29, 2014 19:47
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priznat posted:What are the real benefits in using a broker to get a car? Mostly time? A couple guys at my work used one to get their vehicles and we're really happy with doing it mostly because everything was all finalized with no bullshit back and forth. Time and pain in the rear end savings. Rarely, they can get a better deal than you because they'll travel (my mom got a prius right when they came out under sticker in the bay because they got it from a dealer in bakersfield or something). That said, they'll get you an acceptable deal and save you some bullshit.
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Dec 29, 2014 20:02
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Thanks, sounds worth it for me! Plus the guy comes heavily recommended by a couple of smart no nonsense guys I work with (senior to me) who were really happy with the whole thing. I'll be selling my current car privately so that reduces the complication too.
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Dec 29, 2014 20:22
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Thanks for the feedback skipdogg, and everyone else! It's actually kinda reassuring to hear that it's my own flawed expectations that are at fault. I wish I could wait longer to find the right deal, but it's already been a month since my accident. My insurance's rental car expired a while ago, and the car I borrowed from my in-laws was only available to me while they were out of town for the holidays. I'm warming up to the Honda Fit. I just used it to move a 80" long tabletop, not a lot of subcompacts can handle that!
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Dec 29, 2014 21:38
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Proposed Budget: 12-22k New or Used: Used, but new is fine if it's a good enough deal. If used, 2010 or newer Body Style: 4 door hatchback, manual How will you be using the car?: Used mostly for commuting short city distances, with a 500 mile round trip ~3 times a year, and several camping trips throughout the year Live in southern california, so snow is not an issue. What aspects are most important to you?: MPG, reliability/cost of ownership, it needs to have cruise control and an AUX port So my 93 honda civic of 253k miles isn't passing smog and it will cost too much to get it there and I'm ready to get a new used car. This was my first car that was given to me, and I've had it for four years now. I'm looking for a new used (based on budget) nicer car. From all I've read in this thread, that points me to Honda Fit, Mazda3 or a Ford Focus. I went to car max today and test drove a manual mazda3 and ford focus with the Mazda3 winning out in how it felt driving. The ford focus felt very similar to my current honda civic in terms of handling and power, though it was the cheaper of the two. Are there any other cars I should be looking at, and does anyone have thoughts on the new vs used argument for these cars?
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Dec 31, 2014 22:35
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Proposed Budget: $50,000 and under New or Used: OOOOOOZED! Body Style: (e.g. 2 door? 4 door? Compact/Midsize/Fullsize Sedan? Truck? SUV?): Sedan How will you be using the car?: (Do you tow things?): No. I want to to...but nah. I'll be using it to go on road trips, the city, parties, etc. Perhaps not commute to work. Haul more than 5 people on a regular basis? No...though not opposed to it. Won't mind taking 1-5 on trips. Have a super long commute? Yeah, about an hour but have an LR2 for that. How are you going to use this vehicle? Road trips, out and about, weekends etc. Do you prefer a luxury vehicle with all the gizmos?) YES! What aspects are most important to you? (e.g. reliability, cost of ownership/maintenance, import/domestic, MPG, size, style): I have a winter, likely need 4x4/AWD and snow tires. 3. If you do not live in the U.S. you should probably say so because what's available can vary a lot. I live in the U.S. Proposals: 2011 Audi A8, Mercedes CL or CLS, Porsche Panamera 4 2010, BMW M5/6 SUV: 2012 Infiniti QX56, JX, Range Rover Whattya I do? Chuck it all and go for a loaded F150?
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Jan 1, 2015 05:59
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Spikes32 posted:Proposed Budget: 12-22k I guess test drive an Impreza too, but there's not really a whole lot to differentiate these cars at this price point so you might as well just find the cheapest one around which will probably be the Focus. Gatts posted:Have a super long commute? Yeah, about an hour but have an LR2 for that. I wouldn't count on it. 
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Jan 1, 2015 10:26
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Gatts posted:Proposed Budget: $50,000 and under With a wishlish like this, I'd also look at nicer Porsche Cayennes. They're really great vehicles even though they piss the purists off. I'd consider the Audi A7 as well, it has an interior way above its price class. Sorry that I can't help you narrow it down, but when you're dropping $50k on a used car you're in 'gently caress you I want a nice car' territory, so mostly it comes down to which of these you like driving the most.
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Jan 2, 2015 16:57
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I will look into a Porsche Cayenne. Thanks. This way I get an SUV that is a Porsche and if it comes with a hitch maybe I can trick it out and go all sports like in the mountains on curvey roads hauling stuff.
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Jan 2, 2015 18:29
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Proposed Budget: $15k and under New or Used: Used Body Style: Hatchback or sedan How will you be using the car?: 60-mile round trip daily commute. No frills, no hauling. What aspects are most important to you? Maintenance. Mileage is obviously important in my situation, but minimizing drama even moreso. I'm in WA and can probably get a 2nd-gen Prius for somewhere between $6k and $10k, so that's my first choice right now. Thoughts?
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Jan 2, 2015 18:55
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Prius seems like a great choice as long as you don't mind the driving experience, which seems like you won't.
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Jan 2, 2015 19:10
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I hope this is the right thread for this, apologies in advance if not. I have a close friend who has been promoted and has a longer commute. Thus he is selling his vehicle and cutting $1000 off the asking price for me if I buy it. Financially I can afford it, no worries there. My fiancee would like a safer vehicle for winter driving conditions. We live in Massachusetts but routinely drive to Vermont and New Hampshire and are often in icy / muddy conditions. The vehicle is a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee V8 with 72,000 miles. My friends is offering me $4500 for it. This is the bluebook link he had circulated when he started listing it within our circle of friends: http://www.kbb.com/jeep/grand-chero...526882987469440 I've driven the vehicle before and trust that he has taken good care of the vehicle / done regular maintenance with a mechanic and has made no modifications nor has he used it for off-roading. It's been responsibly owned and driven. Is this a good deal or are the Grand Cherokee's time bombs? I've only driven a few Honda's over the last 10 years and haven't kept up with American vehicles much anymore. Any advice or opinion is appreciated. Thanks!
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Jan 2, 2015 19:28
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Does it have automatic climate control? If so, that system is infamous for breaking and costing a lot of money.
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Jan 2, 2015 20:18
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nm posted:Does it have automatic climate control? If so, that system is infamous for breaking and costing a lot of money. Megabux to fix it properly: Yes. Megabux to fix it to where it works well enough? Not really. The blend doors are made of weak plastic but the electric motors that drive them are strong as gently caress. Plus, the system uses the current spike caused by stalling an electric motor to decide how far to move the blend door. There's a pin that's supposed to take the load, but guess what, it breaks - so after a while the blend door motor simply rips the blend door apart. The 'proper' fix is a dash-out repair with massive labor costs, but the aftermarket has at least three or four different kits that can all be installed just by cutting a hole that can be accessed via the glovebox area, fixing it for about $100. There's also the possibility that it's the output shaft on the motor itself that's cracked (which is what happened to mine) - the replacement doors have helped but I'll eventually need to replace at least one motor, which can also be accessed easily under the glovebox. The other motor for the passenger side is a dash-out repair no matter what, though, so if that one ever fails I'm converting mine to single-zone. Other problem points can be the engine (if you read Jeepforum, every 4.7L is either a ticking timebomb or will last 200k miles). It is pretty well agreed that overheating the engine is a quick way to kill it since it can loosen the valveseat, which eventually turns to shrapnel inside the combustion chamber with the expected destruction that follows. The 545RFE transmission behind the V8 is fairly stout, just needs ATF+4 changes on schedule. There's one of two transfer cases in it - the NV242 if it has Selectrac (which is less common) and the NV247 if it has Quadratrac or Quadradrive (more common). Both are sturdy, but the NV247 needs special dealer-only fluid. Axles are reasonably strong as well (Dana 30 in front, Dana 44A in back), Quadradrive models get a sort of limited-slip setup in both axles (Jeep calls it Varilock). Gas mileage will be roughly poo poo. I'm averaging in the 15s in my 2003 V8. Whether the price is worth it comes down a lot to condition - I paid $6k for my 2003 V8 Limited with ~114k on it at the time last year. It's also drat near spotless and came with a stack of records an inch thick. $4500 for 73000 miles seems like a really good deal to me, but if there's rust / interior damage it could be a different story.
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Jan 2, 2015 20:47
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Thanks guys, I don't believe it has the automatic climate control but will double check. He has a full maintenance schedule saved so I'll try to glean from that when all of the ATF changes were made / if they are dealer only or not. The interior and exterior condition are quite good, no rust no wear other than expected. Thanks for giving me the heads up on the 4.7 potential issue. I will find out if it has ever been run hot in the past but from our earlier discussions that is (thankfully) doubtful. He hasn't really had a serious mechanical issue with it at this point (he is also the original owner).
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Jan 2, 2015 21:05
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Holy poo poo, i'm pretty sure that's the same climate system used on my dad's Cadillac when I was a child and nearly sweated to death moving from Washington where heat all the time isn't a problem to Dallas where no AC is a death sentence. gently caress you, GM 
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Jan 3, 2015 06:18
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I live in the bay area, no kids, no major storage needs. My daily is a motorcycle, but I'm looking for a fun car to take out on the weekend or for short shopping excursions. I have a friend ready to sell me a 2005 S2000 in good condition with 120k miles on it for 11k, but I want to make sure I'm not missing out on something more fun. I have no major life responsibilities and a beautiful garage with tools to work on most anything. Open to a more project oriented car as long as it runs more than it doesn't. Proposed Budget: 10-12k. Would rather stay closer to 10k, but willing to invest a little more for something amazing. New or Used: Used. Body Style: Smaller - roadster, coupe, hatch, small sedan, etc. How will you be using the car?: Commuting occasionally, mostly small errands and weekend pleasure driving. What aspects are most important to you? Fun to drive, easy to maintain and work on myself. I'm also looking at older miatas, gti's, etc. Does anyone have any experience with higher mileage s2000's or suggestions?
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Jan 4, 2015 01:23
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Hadlock posted:Holy poo poo, i'm pretty sure that's the same climate system used on my dad's Cadillac when I was a child and nearly sweated to death moving from Washington where heat all the time isn't a problem to Dallas where no AC is a death sentence. gently caress you, GM The WJ fails the other way - when the door finally breaks and falls down, you get either vent air or A/C, no heat. The recirculation door apparently likes to fail too but takes much longer to do so and like any proper Jeep, there's a cheap way to at least resolve the main issue (even if you lose recirc control).
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Jan 4, 2015 04:00
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So after test driving a bunch of different makes/models/trims I've decided I do want to get a Mazda3 (hatchback, manual, with skyactive so 2012 or newer). Sounds familiar to a previous poster right? I have ~1 month possibly two before I actually need to buy a car, but I found one at a dealership yesterday that fits my budget and seems to be a competitive deal. A 2013 Mazda3 I touring for 16500 at ~15k miles. Should I make the plunge right now, or wait and keep an eye out for other deals since I do have a bit of time? I'm leaning towards just getting it because at the moment this is the only car i found with similar stats in SD so far.
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Jan 4, 2015 16:27
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