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flosofl posted:Something along these lines might work as well. I'm not endorsing this one, it's just the first one that I pulled up that had a picture of a base on a long USB cable. I used something like this for years on my gaming PC.
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Dec 30, 2014 17:46
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Squish posted:Would you mind at all overviewing the kind of precautions you're talking about? Do you mean things like firewalls on each PC, up to date OS/patches etc. or more than that? My biggest concern would be the inbound port in combination with the OS. After that the service that's actually being presented on that port. There are so many automated port scans happening on the internet, that I imagine that the public IP, port, OS and service running were discovered in minutes. If you have everything up to date you *should* be ok. But you can only patch against known vulnerabilities. Just because it hasn't been discovered/disclosed by the good-guys, does not mean it's not known. Remember when Iran found all that malware in their centrifuge control systems? The infection vector included four until then unknown OS vulnerabilities that had been exploited months prior to the discovery. Always assume the bad guys have something no one has mitigated against or even knows about. Another option that's available on some home router/firewall devices is setting up a DMZ for the fileserver. As long as you don't allow file server to initiate inbound traffic from the DMZ to your home network you should be cool. However, be aware that the file server itself can still be compromised and make sure you've taken adequate safeguards or just leave sensitive information off it all together.
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Dec 30, 2014 18:08
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flosofl posted:My biggest concern would be the inbound port in combination with the OS. After that the service that's actually being presented on that port. This is all good info and a correct and appropriate posture to take with computer and network security. That being said, your service isn't running on one of the well-known ports and presumably you keep up with patches to your computer. You should be fine. A better solution that will remove that port as an attack vector is to setup a VPN connection between yourself and your router and then talk to the network directly. This means you have to keep the VPN service patched but that only rarely gets blown up in awful security nightmares like the Heartbleed bug. This also gives you full access to all the machines on your network so you can fiddle around with them as you please.
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Dec 30, 2014 23:10
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Josh Lyman posted:I've had bad experiences with USB WiFi adapters in the past, in part because they seem to overheat. Is that still a problem? The one that used before I got my PCIe AC adaptor was one of those Cisco-Linksys AE-*mumblemumble* dual-band adaptors. I never had an issue, but used it on a PC with the extender cable/base it came with.
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Dec 31, 2014 18:15
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I'm looking for a PCIe wireless adapter for my desktop computer. I ordered one of these (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833106192) but it wasn't in stock. I'm not far from my router, I just don't want to have a cable running from my desktop through the living room. I'm mainly doing this to minimize cords in my room, and as such I'm wondering if bluetooth is a possibility since I would like to (eventually) get a bluetooth keyboard and mouse for my desktop. Any suggestions for an adapter would be greatly appreciated. (for reference I'm using an Apple Airport Express)
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Dec 31, 2014 19:27
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Verisimilidude posted:I'm looking for a PCIe wireless adapter for my desktop computer. I ordered one of these (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833106192) but it wasn't in stock. I'm not far from my router, I just don't want to have a cable running from my desktop through the living room.
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Dec 31, 2014 19:54
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Is there any decent (and preferably free) network design software? I'm looking to run some new cat5 and update the home network from its current "let the components fall where they may" design. I'm about *this* close to just making a post-it note to represent each piece of equipment and drawing lines between them in crayon until I'm satisfied.
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Jan 2, 2015 02:11
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Are there any routers that have USB 3.0 and HFS+ write support? My old AirPort Extreme seems to be on the fritz and all of the USB 3.0 routers I've found only have HFS+ read support since they presumably use Linux's hfsplus driver, which is insanely slow compared to the AirPort Extreme (tested with a RT-N66U and Tomato) and apparently can possibly damage the filesystem if you enable writes. I would just go with another AirPort Extreme except they're only USB 2.0 - I use an external HDD for Time Machine and stuff so I would like it to be as fast as possible (even if it would be limited by "only" being Gigabit, the backup client is wired). A NAS suggestion would be cool too I guess, I'd just rather not have 2 separate devices. e: also please don't just say "duur use a real filesystem" it would be very complicated to shift around that much data and I am aware of HFS+'s shortcomings thanks Beeftweeter fucked around with this message at 05:40 on Jan 2, 2015 |
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Jan 2, 2015 05:36
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Acid Reflux posted:Is there any decent (and preferably free) network design software? LibreOffice Draw is pretty decent for making diagrams, though it's not specifically geared toward network design. Beeftweeter posted:Are there any routers that have USB 3.0 and HFS+ write support? Does it have to be a router? How about turning one of your Macs into a file server and share out the USB3 drive? SamDabbers fucked around with this message at 05:42 on Jan 2, 2015 |
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Jan 2, 2015 05:40
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http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=200_1438 Hey goons, which of the routers on that list would you recommend?
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Jan 2, 2015 06:53
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EvilElmo posted:http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=200_1438 The ASUS RT-66U and ASUS RT-68U are owned by quite a few goons and seem to be good performers. Buy which depending on if you need the extra features. The Netgear AC routers are also pretty good (the one with 6 antennas is probably overkill). A friend of mine owns both ASUS and Netgear routers and he's found that the transmit power is a bit higher on the ASUS ones, which may explain this lawsuit where Netgear alleges that ASUS sent the FCC test results or test units with lower transmit power than their actual units that ship: http://www.pcworld.com/article/2046202/netgear-accuses-asus-of-submitting-fraudulent-test-results-to-the-fcc.html
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Jan 2, 2015 07:48
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Beeftweeter posted:Are there any routers that have USB 3.0 and HFS+ write support? My old AirPort Extreme seems to be on the fritz and all of the USB 3.0 routers I've found only have HFS+ read support since they presumably use Linux's hfsplus driver, which is insanely slow compared to the AirPort Extreme (tested with a RT-N66U and Tomato) and apparently can possibly damage the filesystem if you enable writes. You could always grab a Mac mini and run time machine off of OSX server.
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Jan 2, 2015 08:05
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Rexxed posted:The ASUS RT-66U and ASUS RT-68U are owned by quite a few goons and seem to be good performers. Buy which depending on if you need the extra features. The Netgear AC routers are also pretty good (the one with 6 antennas is probably overkill). Thanks!
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Jan 2, 2015 08:17
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SamDabbers posted:LibreOffice Draw is pretty decent for making diagrams, though it's not specifically geared toward network design. Aha! In my frustration, I didn't even consider a regular flowchart type program. Libre is going to fit the bill nicely. Thanks very much 
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Jan 2, 2015 14:02
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I don't know if this is the best place, but I have a question about setting up a vpn along side an existing network. We have an office close by that has started to do shipping and the easiest way is for them to use our already existing shipping platform. Our network is set up with a main in house server and clients, no outside connections (software doesn't allow it). I was thinking the easiest way would be to set up a vpn, which I have some experience with in setting up. The problem is that their computer over there would still need to access their own network for things like printers. I only know how to set up a vpn so that all traffic is tunneled over it and a completely new ip is assigned. How can I accomplish this without giving anybody any more access than is required. If there is a better place to ask this please let me know.
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Jan 2, 2015 17:10
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e.pilot posted:You could always grab a Mac mini and run time machine off of OSX server. This is what I do. This also allows you to do other cool stuff like set up caching for updates, set up a VPN, etc. My mini is also hooked up to a tv so I can stream things on the big screen easily. Obviously the actual benefits will depend on how many macs you have and your own personal usage, but I like it.
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Jan 2, 2015 17:51
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Nondescript Van posted:I don't know if this is the best place, but I have a question about setting up a vpn along side an existing network. I would setup the VPN tunnel on the routers in each office if it allows, or get equipment that lets you do so. Something like this is what I would do. Site to Site VPN, and then users in the Satellite office access the shipping application over VPN while being able to use their local devices as well. 
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Jan 2, 2015 18:28
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Acid Reflux posted:Aha! In my frustration, I didn't even consider a regular flowchart type program. Libre is going to fit the bill nicely. Thanks very much
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Jan 2, 2015 18:33
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Star War Sex Parrot posted:Just use draw.io instead of installing something.  How have I not heard of this before? I've only used Visio / Gliffy in the past. This seems pretty awesome for a free product.
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Jan 2, 2015 18:50
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skipdogg posted:I would setup the VPN tunnel on the routers in each office if it allows, or get equipment that lets you do so. Something like this is what I would do. Site to Site VPN, and then users in the Satellite office access the shipping application over VPN while being able to use their local devices as well. the equipment I have available does not have site to site vpn capabilities. I can limit them to a single computer for their shipping since it will be very low volume. Some sort of client server setup would be best for what I have available.
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Jan 2, 2015 19:18
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You need a client/server solution that allows for split tunneling.. I'm out of the loop on options these days, back in the day something like Hamachi might have worked, maybe some version of openvpn. the phrase split tunneling should get you started though.
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Jan 2, 2015 20:36
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Internet Explorer posted:
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Jan 2, 2015 21:24
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I've been out of the home networking game for a while so am modernizing my network. I'm going to pick up the ARRIS SB6121 (as recommended on an earlier page) and give Wideopenwest the middle finger with their increasing monthly fee (now $15, going up a few more dollars). I have an older Linksys that only has 100 megabit ports that I want to upgrade. What's the best go to router around $100 these days? I don't need a lot of fancy features, probably just enough RAM for the dang thing not to have the NAT overloaded with Linux ISOs being thrown around. Roughly 15 devices will be on it, but not likely at the same time. 3 Chromecasts, a couple tablets and phones, 2 Amazon FireTVs, and two PCs. Everything with an Ethernet port will be wired with a gigabit switch put behind the router. I wouldn't mind having ac for future proofing but don't have any devices on it yet. Appreciate any feedback, just looking to cut through to the few tried and true Goon favorites. Thanks!
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Jan 2, 2015 21:56
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SamDabbers posted:Does it have to be a router? How about turning one of your Macs into a file server and share out the USB3 drive? A router would probably be best and cheaper than buying a Mac Mini. The only "Mac" that it's connected to via Ethernet is a Hackintosh anyway that I routinely reboot to go into Windows (which can't write to HFS+ either), and at any rate I let that machine sleep most of the time anyway so network access wouldn't be available. I used to do this with an older Mac Pro though (which is why the drive is HFS+ to begin with) but over time it became easier to use a router as a sort-of NAS instead so that it could be accessed all the time from other computers while one of them is off/asleep.
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Jan 2, 2015 23:05
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Star War Sex Parrot posted:Just use draw.io instead of installing something. Too late on the installation part, and I needed some office software on this particular machine anyway, but that is certainly a fine addition to the bookmarks collection. Thanks!
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Jan 3, 2015 01:46
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So I just received a new ASUS RT-AC68U based on the recommendations in this thread. I set it up, and everything was running well. I was able to see both the 2.4Ghz and 5GHz networks, and was able to connect to both of them from both floors of my house, with full 4 bar signal on my phone. However, after about 15 minutes, the signals dropped to nothing. I was only able to pick up the 5GHz network if I was within 2 feet of the router. I couldn't see the 2.4 GHz network at all. I upgraded to the latest firmware, to no avail. My desktop, which is wired, still has a fine connection. Has anyone had this same experience? It seems to be a hardware problem to me (probably the worst-case scenario, considering their customer "service"), but was wondering if anyone else had any tips or tricks. I had all three antennas hooked up. When I took off the antennae, I wasn't even able to get a wireless signal at all, so they seemed to at least be doing something. It just seems so weird to me that it was working fine for a few minutes but then just completely crapped out. Thanks in advance.
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Jan 3, 2015 02:30
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smax posted:This is what I do. This also allows you to do other cool stuff like set up caching for updates, set up a VPN, etc. My mini is also hooked up to a tv so I can stream things on the big screen easily. Obviously the actual benefits will depend on how many macs you have and your own personal usage, but I like it. You can do all kinds of cool stuff with OS X Server, it's pretty neat.
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Jan 3, 2015 02:52
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skipdogg posted:You need a client/server solution that allows for split tunneling.. I'm out of the loop on options these days, back in the day something like Hamachi might have worked, maybe some version of openvpn. the phrase split tunneling should get you started though. split tunneling looks like it's exactly what i want. Thanks. Hopefully I can get this set up how I want.
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Jan 3, 2015 03:15
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Star War Sex Parrot posted:Just use draw.io instead of installing something. There is also https://cacoo.com but it doesn't appear as flexible on storage options.
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Jan 3, 2015 08:08
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Hi, I'm looking for some advice to help sort out my home network. I'm with Virgin in the uk and have a 100mbs fibre internet connection and a virgin super hub 2 modem/router. I have had Virgin for about 6 months now with no problems, but have just started having some issues after getting 3 Nest thermostats (which use the wifi) and wonder if the problem could be that the Superhub is struggling with having too many devices connected? I have the following setup: Super hub connected to the fibre. This has a NAS, smart TV and another PC connected via ethernet. It is also connected to a power line adapter. The power line then connects to an old router (technicolor tg582n) that I have disabled wifi and dhcp on. I'm trying to just use that as a switch. This connects to a PC, Sonos bridge, TIVO box. Over wifi we then have a couple of sonos speakers (I think they connect to the bridge rather than the router?), 3 Nest thermostats, plus various devices like laptops/phones/ipads at times, and also an apple airport express acting as a wireless repeater. As I said, before the thermostats came there were no problems, and there hadn't been any problems using things over wifi for a couple of days afterwards either, so maybe that's a red herring. Then the first real day I was home I tried to use the PC that is directly connected to the Superhub (over Ethernet). There was no internet access, with windows showing the connection icon with a little yellow exclamation mark. Wifi was working fine at this point. I tried rebooting the PC and router, and eventually it started working. However, my laptop now had the error when connecting over wifi. My phone worked for a while but then got the same problem. Further reboots / a factory reset of the router didn't help, I couldn't get wifi access back, although the PC carried on working. Eventually I tried phoning Virgin tech support, who were actually very helpful. He suggested unplugging the powerline adapter and then reconnecting, that did seem to get wifi up and running and for the evening both the wired PC and the wifi worked. However, over the weekend connection problems continued, with wifi intermittently not working, and the next night I booted up the wired PC and again it had internet access, although it did seem to be connection to the NAS over the powerline. I've carried on having weird problems with devices randomly working / not working. For example, at one point things over powering and wifi worked fine, but the to which is wired straight into the router wouldn't do anything, even though the pic wired straight in was fine. The to now works fine despite no changes to anything. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what I might be able to do to get things running reliably? I appreciate that I have a lot of devices connected, so would be willing to accept it if this was simply too much for the superhub and needed to buy a "proper" router. That said, it would be good to have some advice to back it up before spending money on it. If that does seem to be the solution, any suggestions for what I should go for? Thanks
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Jan 3, 2015 09:04
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all_purpose_cat_boy posted:Hi, I'm looking for some advice to help sort out my home network. Make sure you changed the IP address of the technicolor router as well as disabling DHCP (and wifi) since you're just using it like a switch. It may be conflicting with the other router. If both of them are 192.168.1.1 for example, PCs could be sending data to be forwarded out to the internet to the wrong one.
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Jan 3, 2015 10:29
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The super hub is 192.168.0.1 and the tgs is 192.168.1.254 - both just the defaults, I haven't changed anything. I assume that's ok?
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Jan 3, 2015 10:46
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all_purpose_cat_boy posted:The super hub is 192.168.0.1 and the tgs is 192.168.1.254 - both just the defaults, I haven't changed anything. I assume that's ok? I guess it's okay, I might put the technicolor on the same subnet (192.168.0.2 or something) but that probably won't be causing your issues. You're connecting a lan port of the super hub thing to a LAN port on the technicolor and not the WAN port, right?
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Jan 3, 2015 11:30
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I'm using a router with DHCP turned off as a switch - is there any reason to get an actual switch to do this job instead?
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Jan 3, 2015 11:36
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Fil5000 posted:I'm using a router with DHCP turned off as a switch - is there any reason to get an actual switch to do this job instead? Not really. Many routers have a switch chip in them for the LAN ports. If you need a switch for more ports, more features, or higher throughput you'll usually know it.
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Jan 3, 2015 12:11
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Rexxed posted:I guess it's okay, I might put the technicolor on the same subnet (192.168.0.2 or something) but that probably won't be causing your issues. You're connecting a lan port of the super hub thing to a LAN port on the technicolor and not the WAN port, right? Yep, that's right. Every single device works, it's just that none of them seem to work all the time. And sometimes a device will have Internet access but not see the nas, or see the nas but have no internet access, so it's like the network is split in two halves at times, but the halves keep moving round...
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Jan 3, 2015 12:12
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all_purpose_cat_boy posted:Yep, that's right. Every single device works, it's just that none of them seem to work all the time. And sometimes a device will have Internet access but not see the nas, or see the nas but have no internet access, so it's like the network is split in two halves at times, but the halves keep moving round... Well that's definitely weird. If changing the IP on the technicolor doesn't help then there may be some problem with the superhub itself, or maybe something intermittent with the powerline adapters. The main issue with diagnosing the problem is that you have a lot of different technologies working together. Your wifi is handling mobile devices and also the airport in wifi bridge mode. You have some powerline adapters going to another old router working as a switch. The only clues are that you sometimes lose internet through the wired connections on your router and not the wifi, which is unusual. It might be something like the DNS server on the router crapping out (see if reassigning the PC to manually use different DNS servers helps), but it also may be something like the superhub router loving up DHCP and giving out address conflicts or straight up running out of addresses because it doesn't clear its table appropriately. Perhaps the nest thermostats are causing this behavior to happen more frequently just due to increasing the number of devices on the network. I can't say for sure if it's any of those things but if wireless devices work and wired don't through the same router then it's likely some kind of misconfiguration. The only time I've seen that was with a router that had the aforementioned DHCP list clearing problem. I had to assign addresses manually until we got a replacement and also make up a script to reboot it every night to clear out the dhcp list so that the few workers who used cell phones on site could continue to do so. DNS issues can manifest the same way if some devices have cached some dns resolutions or are using the IP address of external DNS servers while others are trying to use the router for DNS which is no longer serving. I wish I could be more help but like I said, you have a lot of different technologies so we're sort of looking for clues as to what's wrong. It may just come down to trying a few things and seeing if it improves.
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Jan 3, 2015 12:31
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I have 2 PC's connected through my router to the Internet. How can I tunnel all of my traffic from PC1 to PC2? PC1 is using Windows 8.1 x64 with an ethernet adapter and a usb wifi adapter. PC2 is using Windows 7 x64 has 2 ethernet adapters and 1 usb wifi adapter. Preferably I'd like to connect PC1 to PC2 via ethernet cable and route all traffic through a wired connection. Do I need a crossover cable for this? How can this be achieved (with or without crossover cable)? I tried creating a VPN connection on PC2 and connecting through that from PC1 but I was unable to log in successfully, I'm probably doing something wrong but I don't know. edit: nm, just bridged the lan adapters together and it worked fine. SuperNuts fucked around with this message at 01:02 on Jan 5, 2015 |
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Jan 3, 2015 15:19
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e.pilot posted:You can do all kinds of cool stuff with OS X Server, it's pretty neat. OS X Server is definitely pretty good — I used to have it set up as a VPN with GlimmerBlocker for an ad-blocking proxy for my iPhone — but really all I'm looking to do is share a bunch of poo poo thats accumulated over the years on a 3 TB HFS+ drive (the old AirPort Extreme doesn't even let me use all 3 TB actually). I guess putting it into the Hackintosh is an option but I'd rather have a dedicated device to handle sharing it. Does nothing like this exist for HFS+? I know most routers support FAT32 (not suitable as some of the files are over 2 GB) and NTFS (not usable because OS X doesn't have write support). I'm not aware of anything that supports ExtFAT but that seems like a lovely option anyway and I'd rather not have to shuffle around ~3 TB of data anyway in order to switch file systems; cloning the old 1.5 TB drive that was in my old Mac Pro and then expanding that partition to 3 TB was enough of a headache.
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Jan 3, 2015 19:04
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Beeftweeter posted:OS X Server is definitely pretty good — I used to have it set up as a VPN with GlimmerBlocker for an ad-blocking proxy for my iPhone — but really all I'm looking to do is share a bunch of poo poo thats accumulated over the years on a 3 TB HFS+ drive (the old AirPort Extreme doesn't even let me use all 3 TB actually). I guess putting it into the Hackintosh is an option but I'd rather have a dedicated device to handle sharing it. Just so you know, the NTFS thing is a non-issue. If you're sharing an NTFS-formatted drive over a network (either via a computer or a router), the client doesn't see the file system. A Mac could write to it no problem. Same goes for HFS partitions shared on a network - Windows computers can write to them no problem. I realize you don't want to reformat the drive, but your options to use the drive and share it as-is are pretty limited to the following: - Apple router - Apple computer - Maybe a router with a Tomato USB mod on it? I think I remember seeing HFS/HFS+ support in the latest Toastman builds, Shibby might include it as well. Tomato USB is good stuff, but I don't know how good the HFS/HFS+ support might be. smax fucked around with this message at 23:48 on Jan 3, 2015 |
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Jan 3, 2015 23:44
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