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Track 24 is the Seiren team fight!
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Dec 31, 2014 20:48
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BlitzBlast posted:If you don't have a MG Gundam X, you should get one!!! Nono I mean which of those should I actually build
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Dec 31, 2014 21:04
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signalnoise posted:OK I got Neo Zeong
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Dec 31, 2014 21:04
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signalnoise posted:Nono I mean which of those should I actually build Oh. Airmaster, of course.
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Dec 31, 2014 21:07
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AGE-1 Razor. Those poor bastards deserved a better series.
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Dec 31, 2014 21:10
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Trying to get an action base for turn a MG. http://www.dalong.net/review/mg/mg100/p/mg100_130.jpg This kindof shows the connection, however it doesn't look like any of the adapters inclued in http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/image/10052483z/70/1 I actually have an old 1/100 base but can't find the small plug (#11 in the manual) Does it require a special connector that was included with the kit?
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Dec 31, 2014 21:30
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TARDISman posted:AGE-1 Razor. Those poor bastards deserved a better series. So many AGE suits deserved a better series. Especially a lot of the Vagan suits.
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Dec 31, 2014 21:37
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Which Destiny MG is bettert? There's one with the wing effect and one without, but I hear the one with the wing effect has issues with it's legs.
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Dec 31, 2014 21:46
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I don't know much about Gundam AGE or why people don't like it, but the dragon robot looks dope as heck.
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Dec 31, 2014 21:46
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madpanda posted:Does it require a special connector that was included with the kit? Bingo. It plugs into the back, it's how you open up the chest missiles. Azubah posted:Which Destiny MG is bettert? There's one with the wing effect and one without, but I hear the one with the wing effect has issues with it's legs. They're the exact same thing. One just has more effect parts and some chrome runners.
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Dec 31, 2014 21:54
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Get the one with the effects parts  Also while I didn't get anything for christmas per se, I got a fair bit of money that I'm going to use that to buy some things. Already have a Berserk Fury ordered and hopefully on the way soon, and probably an Iron Kong too. Just trying to decide what MGs to get (I'm waiting for the double X blitz  )
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Dec 31, 2014 23:55
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signalnoise posted:Nono I mean which of those should I actually build build the airmaster and then buy a leopard and build that and then make them hang out Frankenstein Dad fucked around with this message at 12:54 on Jan 1, 2015 |
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Jan 1, 2015 12:51
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Frankenstein Dad posted:build the airmaster Don't buy a leopard, cause it will look horrible next to a modern HG kit.
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Jan 1, 2015 12:55
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Airmaster it is.
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Jan 1, 2015 13:44
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Alright, I've decided that my project for this year, or the start of it, is to collect the HGs of every mobile suit in War in the Pocket. So far I only have Kampfer and Z'Gok-E, but there isn't actually that many in 0080, so it's a fairly realistic goal. My birthday is in two weeks, so my next haul is gonna be the NT-1, GM Sniper II, Hygogg (THE HUGOGG) and GM Cold Districts (the best Jim)
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Jan 1, 2015 18:02
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And now it's 2015 for everyone. Looking back, 2014 was loving weird. But in the best way possible.
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Jan 1, 2015 18:29
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My Newtype resolution this year is to continue learning hand painting and topcoating. Speaking of, how cold does it have to be before I worry about spraycans having issues? 31f in Chicago right now which isn't that cold.
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Jan 1, 2015 20:16
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My Newtype resolution is to finish the G-Self, get an airbrush setup, and start my Kshatriya. Bonus boss is getting myself an HG FA Unicorn.
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Jan 1, 2015 20:21
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madpanda posted:My Newtype resolution this year is to continue learning hand painting and topcoating.
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Jan 1, 2015 20:42
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http://www.gunjap.net/site/?p=226756
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Jan 2, 2015 00:58
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So I finally hooked up that $90 airbrush compressor with a tank that you can get on Amazon. HOLY poo poo What a step up it is from the lovely tiny desktop compressor. Press down, fully regulated pressure, no weird behavior, compressor is reasonably quiet. Tried babby's first preshading on the GM QUEL and it looks pretty decent despite having shaky hands and poo poo airbrush control.
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Jan 2, 2015 01:23
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which compressor is that?
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Jan 2, 2015 01:23
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Going to try and make the effort to paint my kits right and clean them properly. I'm using X-2 as a guinea pig. I've sanded the nubs, and it's left these visible scuff marks behind: They feel smooth, so I figure painting will do away with them? Also, what about the join seam? Plastic cement it together and sand it smooth?
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Jan 2, 2015 01:37
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Yeah you're right about both of those. Depending on the grit you used, you might want to smooth it out with some progressive sanding. Where did you get that, btw? I love the x-2 and i kind of want to get one
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Jan 2, 2015 01:52
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muike posted:Yeah you're right about both of those. Depending on the grit you used, you might want to smooth it out with some progressive sanding. Got it on a whim at Tokyo Toys in London, so paid more than I would with HLJ or whatnot. They sell gunpla at massive markup, manga and anime, cosplay stuff and mousemats with boobs.
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Jan 2, 2015 02:07
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Newtype's resolution for me is to get showroom automobile finish on kits that need them, like the Kämpfer Amazing. Also learn astute and smart alclad candy coating, instead of wasteful and not so good alclad... candy coating.
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Jan 2, 2015 02:10
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muike posted:which compressor is that? http://www.amazon.com/AIRBRUSH-COMP...tank+compressor They had it for Prime when I ordered it last week, but now it looks like it's back to TCP. Same for Ebay too, but $100 for a tank compressor is pretty amazing. It's really wonderful to have - it runs for about 20-30 seconds to fill the tank, then as needed to keep it full. You could probably even let it run to fill, shut it off, do your brushing, and switch it on later if needed. I'm not Super Gunpla Pro enough to have a situation where the lovely desktop compressor's variations in pressure caused huge issues, but it's really nice being able to say "this Alclad Gunmetal says 12-15psi, so I will set it at 15psi" and it stays there. My Newtype resolution is to paint all my current kits, if for no other reason than to force me to slow down my building process, thus conserving my now-limited display space. MJP fucked around with this message at 15:07 on Jan 2, 2015 |
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Jan 2, 2015 14:59
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How do I stop my paint from constantly chipping? I'm spraying Mr. Metallic Color GX onto primed parts with Future topcoat, while trying to get the topcoat between the painted and unpainted sections. Every time I go to put pieces together, the edges constantly chip. Do I just need to wait the full week before I can put anything together? Do I need to just use a different topcoat? I've chipped every single model I've painted with lacquer paint so far and it's causing me to avoid painting altogether. Ironically, the one model that hasn't chipped was my first one, which was painted with acrylics and no topcoat, which makes absolutely no sense to me.signalnoise posted:Do you use primer? Yes, although on the piece I just chipped, it looks like the underside of the part isn't primed(but I did spray the underside with Future). Should I be just making sure the underneath of every part has a healthy amount of primer and paint on it? Won't that affect how the parts fit and cause chips when I put the kit together? EDIT: I went back over some airbrush tutorials and went over some stuff with my wife(it's her airbrush). It seems like a combination of not priming along edges and spraying too far from the pieces. I guess I start there. Thank god I have SDs in my backlog. GoBob fucked around with this message at 19:32 on Jan 2, 2015 |
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Jan 2, 2015 16:35
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GoBob posted:How do I stop my paint from constantly chipping? I'm spraying Mr. Metallic Color GX onto primed parts with Future topcoat, while trying to get the topcoat between the painted and unpainted sections. Every time I go to put pieces together, the edges constantly chip. Do I just need to wait the full week before I can put anything together? Do I need to just use a different topcoat? I've chipped every single model I've painted with lacquer paint so far and it's causing me to avoid painting altogether. Ironically, the one model that hasn't chipped was my first one, which was painted with acrylics and no topcoat, which makes absolutely no sense to me. Do you use primer?
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Jan 2, 2015 16:40
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muike posted:Yeah you're right about both of those. Depending on the grit you used, you might want to smooth it out with some progressive sanding. Just realised that some parts need to be poly-cemented around other parts, which is going to get in the way of painting. For example, the arm has two pieces of shoulder which connect through the top of the arm, and there's the eyes, which are a purple piece of plastic inside the two halves of the head. Am I just going to have to do two batches of painting, before and after glueing? Think I'm going to start on Exia Dark Matter or Rozen Zulu tonight. Both look excellent.
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Jan 2, 2015 21:26
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BizarroAzrael posted:Just realised that some parts need to be poly-cemented around other parts, which is going to get in the way of painting. For example, the arm has two pieces of shoulder which connect through the top of the arm, and there's the eyes, which are a purple piece of plastic inside the two halves of the head. Am I just going to have to do two batches of painting, before and after glueing? Rozen Zulu has a hilarious amount of stickers, if you hadn't heard already.
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Jan 2, 2015 22:47
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Midjack posted:Rozen Zulu has a hilarious amount of stickers, if you hadn't heard already. It's a Sleeves MS. Ridiculous amount of stickers is par for the course.
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Jan 2, 2015 23:01
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Hijo Del Helmsley posted:It's a Sleeves MS. Ridiculous amount of stickers is par for the course. It's not a coincidence I've been asking about painting.
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Jan 2, 2015 23:13
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Finished the Nightingale my girlfriend got me for Christmas. Pretty fun build, I love bigger suits. Now for lining and decals, yay.
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Jan 2, 2015 23:53
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Just posted some plamo on SA-Mart if anyone's interested. Kotobukiya Hitekkai Ginkei from Ikaruga, Hasegawa Harrier II Plus, Hibiki Ganaha version, because your Gunpla need a jump jet done up like an itasha. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3692008
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Jan 3, 2015 01:02
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Speaking of panel lining, do you more experienced plastic toy builders in this thread do the lining while the pieces are still in the runners, or do you only do it on the completed model? I can see the risk of smudging if you do it first being a problem, but trying to do it on an unwieldy completed model could be worse. Fortunately I kind of like a little bit of darkening and unevenness from trying to buff out mistakes with a Q-tip, so smudging isn't too big of a deal, but I'd still rather take the easier approach, since panel lining takes a long time either way.
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Jan 3, 2015 01:05
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BizarroAzrael posted:Just realised that some parts need to be poly-cemented around other parts, which is going to get in the way of painting. For example, the arm has two pieces of shoulder which connect through the top of the arm, and there's the eyes, which are a purple piece of plastic inside the two halves of the head. Am I just going to have to do two batches of painting, before and after glueing? Become adept at the C-joint cut friend http://youtu.be/kib09kJe_T8 chumbler posted:Speaking of panel lining, do you more experienced plastic toy builders in this thread do the lining while the pieces are still in the runners, or do you only do it on the completed model? I prefer to leave lining to the near-end of the build, after postshading but before the first clear coat. If necessary I'll do it before a weathering wash. Ka0 fucked around with this message at 01:25 on Jan 3, 2015 |
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Jan 3, 2015 01:19
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chumbler posted:Speaking of panel lining, do you more experienced plastic toy builders in this thread do the lining while the pieces are still in the runners, or do you only do it on the completed model? I can see the risk of smudging if you do it first being a problem, but trying to do it on an unwieldy completed model could be worse. Fortunately I kind of like a little bit of darkening and unevenness from trying to buff out mistakes with a Q-tip, so smudging isn't too big of a deal, but I'd still rather take the easier approach, since panel lining takes a long time either way. I do it after painting and gloss coating. It's easier to do if you do this before final assembly. Keep the limbs, body, head, weapons, etc separated and panel line them. Also newtype resolution- not lose a single loving model piece this year There is no way that this will happen if the past 12 years are any indication. 
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Jan 3, 2015 02:11
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I should mention I'm not painting or sealing these, just doing panel lining on them out of the box. Still, it sounds like getting the various components together first is the way to go. Thanks.
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Jan 3, 2015 02:33
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 Finished the main body of Rex. Kinda kicking myself in the rear end right now though, because as I was assembling the railgun, the balljoint snapped off inside of the polycap in the gun itself. At least now I have an excuse to get a hand drill, but  e: nevermind, we're in business 
JimmyBiskit fucked around with this message at 03:04 on Jan 3, 2015 |
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Jan 3, 2015 02:36
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