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If you've pressure bled a clutch and it's still not working you have another issue. What exactly caused you to need to bleed the clutch? Were you replacing parts or just trying to flush it? Were you trying to take care of a lovely clutch pedal just by bleeding (which will sometimes work....but sometimes it's parts)?
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Jan 4, 2015 00:35
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Motronic posted:If you've pressure bled a clutch and it's still not working you have another issue. Its all new parts. I converted from an automatic to manual so the master, slave and lines are all new. I can't see any leaks either.
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Jan 4, 2015 00:53
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E36 calls for a special bleed, did you follow the bentley? Pressure bleed as normal, then remove the slave from the transmission. Turn it upside down. Crack the bleed screw and push the slave rod into something until it's fully depressed. Tighten the bleed screw then let the rod come back out. Do it a couple times. Then reinstall. There are also a shitload of other things that can cause low clutch engagement on an e36, but generally the master/slave is the issue for not being able to fully disengage.
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Jan 4, 2015 01:00
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Crustashio posted:E36 calls for a special bleed, did you follow the bentley? Pressure bleed as normal, then remove the slave from the transmission. Turn it upside down. Crack the bleed screw and push the slave rod into something until it's fully depressed. Tighten the bleed screw then let the rod come back out. Do it a couple times. Then reinstall. Ahh poo poo no I didn't. By upside down you mean bleed screw is up?
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Jan 4, 2015 01:24
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Timmy Cruise posted:Ahh poo poo no I didn't. Yeah. On my m3 it did help. Also, both times I bled I had to pump the clutch a lot to get pedal even after bleeding. Once you do it try pump it by hand and see if the engagement point starts to come up off the floor. Its a lovely system.
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Jan 4, 2015 01:33
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Crustashio posted:Yeah. On my m3 it did help. Also, both times I bled I had to pump the clutch a lot to get pedal even after bleeding. Once you do it try pump it by hand and see if the engagement point starts to come up off the floor. Its a lovely system. Thanks. I'll give it a go tomorrow. It might be -10 c in the garage but I'm not letting that stop me.
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Jan 4, 2015 01:40
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Can you use a Motive bleeder to bleed the E36 clutch? Something I was wondering.
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Jan 4, 2015 15:17
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Yes that's what I use. But because of the bleeder screw orientation you still need to remove it for the final step. And even then I still had to pump the clutch to get it all the way up. But after that it's been flawless.
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Jan 4, 2015 17:38
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I'm poor and I have a 2006 3 series, and recently when I turn I get a god awful creaking sound like something needs oil badly. I also have to drive over about 6 speed bumps to get out of my apartment complex and it has been making a bad clunking sound when going over them. I have very little time due to the amount of hours I work and the BMW dealer is right over the highway so I dropped it off on Saturday they guy took a look at it quick and said the bushings on both my control arms were cracked and my struts most likely need to be replaced. He gave me an estimate of $1800 I know nothing about repair costs and I'm sure that is a rip off. They are going to do the actual inspection Monday. I have a few questions though. Say they say it is the control arms and struts am I going to save a poo poo load more taking it somewhere else to be fixed? Is a BMW shop more likely to repair the car correctly? Is there any benefit to having BMW fix it besides getting hosed in the rear end for free? I'm just worried if I shop it around to get it fixed I'm going to get some dumb gently caress that uses the worst parts and doesn't do a good job. I'm in the Phoenix area if that helps. This is like the worst possible time for my car to start loving up, right after moving to a new place and Christmas.
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Jan 5, 2015 04:40
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Find a bmw indie shop and take it there. $1800 laffo
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Jan 5, 2015 05:14
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It's not a rip off, that's pretty much dealer price for those repairs (and those are common things to need replacement at the age your BMW is at). This is why most of us in this thread do as much of our own work as we can (I just replaced a bunch of bushings and suspension bits on my 2004 a couple months back and it only ran $400 doing all the work myself). BMWs can get expensive to maintain quickly if you don't do your own work and don't keep up on scheduled maintenance (struts and suspension bushings are part of the periodic inspect and replace items for all cars, including BMWs, they were probably due for inspection a while ago and it wasn't done when it was supposed to be), but as long as they're well maintained they're generally pretty reliable.
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Jan 5, 2015 05:25
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unless there's like 10 hours of labor to replace struts and bushings that is a rip off
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Jan 5, 2015 05:29
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Dealership price is always a ripoff.
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Jan 5, 2015 05:50
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Guru Yaekob posted:Front suspension On an e46 that's barely a day's work for a barely competent diyer working in a car park, never mind a mechanic. Max £200 ($300?) in parts from what I recall, but more if you need to replace the control arms themselves. That sounds way too expensive. (Assuming you use the correct type of spring compressor and buy the front control arm bushes pre-pressed into the lollypop, otherwise make it more like four days  )
stump fucked around with this message at 11:44 on Jan 5, 2015 |
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Jan 5, 2015 11:41
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Guru Yaekob posted:He gave me an estimate of $1800 I know nothing about repair costs and I'm sure that is a rip off. They are going to do the actual inspection Monday. I have a few questions though. quote:Say they say it is the control arms and struts am I going to save a poo poo load more taking it somewhere else to be fixed? quote:Is a BMW shop more likely to repair the car correctly? quote:Is there any benefit to having BMW fix it besides getting hosed in the rear end for free?
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Jan 5, 2015 16:37
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So while ,y car is off the road getting: Bushes Drive shafts + sensors Rear arms Quicker rack New coliovers Brake lines Rear subframe reinforcement Is there anything else I shoild consider while sub frames/exhaust/diff etc is off? 2015 gonna be expensive.
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Jan 5, 2015 16:41
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Reinforce the shock towers? I dont know if its really needed but it was cheap so I did it while I had the rear of my car apart. Also I would check and see what bolts are re usable. I replaced a lot of mine while I was in there. (about $100 worth of bolts including exhaust bolts and nuts)
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Jan 5, 2015 17:10
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As I stated before while swapping my starter and pulling the intake mani I managed to bork a pintle cap (and later a second).  I would rather NOT replace entire injectors or buy rebuilt ones. It was only the cap that was broken (these things are stupid brittle). I figure I might as well replace all of the o-rings while I am at it just to avoid air leaks. Would this set work, assuming I will need to get the larger pintle caps as well? http://injector-rehab.com/shop/BMW-Kit.html http://injector-rehab.com/shop/BMW-Finned-Pintle-Cap-Large-Hole.html These are for a S52 M3.
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Jan 5, 2015 17:15
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Send the injectors off to Injector Dynamics (woo, friend works there) or another shop to have them cleaned, balanced, and new caps put on. It's worth it.Bape Culture posted:
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Jan 5, 2015 17:25
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Bape Culture posted:Quicker rack I'll ask the same as BlackMK4, what rack are you going to and what rack were you running? If by chance you're driving a right hand drive E30 I'd be interested in your rack. Dang E21 with the rack mounted behind the front subframe. E21 content - I have a 65lb box of suspension goodies from Ground Control at my desk right now.
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Jan 5, 2015 18:47
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E46 m3. Putting in the e46 compact rack.
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Jan 5, 2015 18:49
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So my X1 is probably not everyone's favorite car, but I wanted to swap out the chrome plastic kidney grills for matte black grills. I got the parts from Bimmian on their Black Friday sale. When I did this on the 335d I had, you just stuck your fingers in the grill and pulled up on the clips and eventually you get the whole grill out. Then you just push the new grill into place. Took like 2-3 minutes total, no tools. On the X1, the blades of the grill are much much closer together and the entire piece is much deeper and the clips are recessed even further. You also can't get to them with the hood open. I think I have to either take the sway bar out (and then all the plastic stuff beneath that) in the front of the engine bay to get there, or jack the car up and try to figure out what's going on underneath. I can get one of the clips unclipped but the other 6 or so are either unreachable or you need super long fingers to actually have the strength to depress the clip. What I'm saying is, BMW X1 2/10 do not buy.
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Jan 5, 2015 19:40
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BlackMK4 posted:Send the injectors off to Injector Dynamics (woo, friend works there) or another shop to have them cleaned, balanced, and new caps put on. It's worth it. I totally would but I'm just ready to have my car back together and not be in pieces. My wife is getting tired of driving me/taking the car for the day too. So I'm guessing this kit will work?
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Jan 5, 2015 22:54
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Just ordered coilovers for my 97 m3  I went with TRMs. They're a bit of an unknown compared to the Koni based kits but I like their design approach and the fact that they're monotubes. I'll post my impressions once they come in and as I get some miles and events on them.
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Jan 5, 2015 23:23
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I just realized that even though the M3 says "Starting at $62,000 MSRP", it's literally impossible to spec out the M3 like that on the website.  Isn't that illegal?
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Jan 6, 2015 01:17
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The lowest you can get it is $63,525. Alpine White, cloth interior, manual transmission. You have to get the rear sunshade though.
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Jan 6, 2015 01:23
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You can probably order it from a dealer with cloth seats and no sunshade* *$2300 paperwork fee
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Jan 6, 2015 01:25
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How can they advertise "As low as $62K" then? They may as well advertise "As low as free!*" *not really.
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Jan 6, 2015 01:26
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Add on the poor tax 'cause it's still a 3er
Infinotize fucked around with this message at 01:33 on Jan 6, 2015 |
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Jan 6, 2015 01:30
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What? $62,000 not including destination fee, no sunshade. It defaults to full leather, SMG trans, and metallic paint, you have to manually change it to Alpine White paint, manual trans, and cloth/leather interior to get to $62k.
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Jan 6, 2015 01:31
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Every single time I change the leather back to cloth, it adds the sunscreen back on. Maybe I'm on the "You're a loving sucker" version of the webpage? KillHour fucked around with this message at 01:35 on Jan 6, 2015 |
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Jan 6, 2015 01:32
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Same for me.
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Jan 6, 2015 01:36
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It never even turned on the option for the sunscreen in the first place for me, so I dunno what's up.  edit: just went and manually turned on rear sunshade, switched from cloth to merino leather, then tried to turn off leather and sunshade and now it's turning leather back on every time I turn the sunshade off and vice versa. Something's wonky with the site, I guess you have to, starting from scratch, turn it to cloth interior before getting to the options and make sure you don't ever turn on the sunshade? It's weird. Militant Lesbian fucked around with this message at 01:42 on Jan 6, 2015 |
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Jan 6, 2015 01:38
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I don't see the point, anyways, it doesn't even have a V8.
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Jan 6, 2015 01:42
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I'm just going to add it to the list of reasons I'll never own a BMW.
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Jan 6, 2015 01:43
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I had the automatic Rear Sunshade in my 335d and it was baller as heck when you're driving around your friends (a couple) and they put up the side shades at night because they've never seen them before and are like 'wtf is this' and you're like "I guess you guys need a little more privacy' and *chunk-whirrrrrr* and they're freaking out because of how cool that was. Other than that it is beyond useless.
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Jan 6, 2015 02:02
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Sounds like extra weight.
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Jan 6, 2015 02:11
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One more superior German servo motor probably buried under brittle plastics to break in ten years.
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Jan 6, 2015 03:49
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Infinotize posted:One more superior German servo motor probably buried under brittle plastics to break in ten years. Basically. http://www.csparks.com/bmw/SunScreen/index.xhtml
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Jan 6, 2015 03:56
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Beast of Bourbon posted:So my X1 is probably not everyone's favorite car, but I wanted to swap out the chrome plastic kidney grills for matte black grills. I got the parts from Bimmian on their Black Friday sale. When I did this on the 335d I had, you just stuck your fingers in the grill and pulled up on the clips and eventually you get the whole grill out. Then you just push the new grill into place. Took like 2-3 minutes total, no tools. Try getting the car very warm first and/or using a heat gun on the grille (or just wait for summer), then use a couple paint can openers if you can't fit your fingers in there and yank firmly. The grilles pull out so much easier when they are warmed up. Crustashio posted:E46 guys - what are you running for suspension? Pretty sure water is getting into the bilstein PSS struts on my 330 and basically making the car undriveable if it's below freezing. I've been looking at one of the H&R cup kits since the PSS springs won't work with OEM style struts. Car is a daily driver only. I posted the setup on my E46 330 a few pages back but I really liked the value of running Koni Yellow Adjustable dampers along with the HR Sport springs (and other stuff like sways/links/plates). It was firm but not harsh at all and basically a poor man's coilover. Maybe spring for the TC Kline rear adjustables if you want to adjust the rears post install. Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 04:46 on Jan 6, 2015 |
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Jan 6, 2015 04:43
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