|
HotCanadianChick posted:Well, last night I picked up babby's first welder, the el-cheapo Harbor Freight 110v 90a wire feed flux core welder: The duty cycle on that machine is very low. Splatter gets worse as you use it if you don't let it cool between welds. I've used it side-by-side with a Hobart 140 loaded with the same wire at a local hackerspace, and both machines started out making similar quality welds, but the HF box started spitting and sparking while the Hobart kept going twice as long.
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2015 04:02
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 02:47 |
|
|
Is a good welder to mess around with from what I gather though. Plus its only a 100 bucks so its not a complete loss when it dies. I have a lead on a miller welder.... I hope I can get home quick enough tomorrow to buy it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2015 04:51
|
|
|
revmoo posted:BTW definitely get Lincoln wire, Lowes or HD should have it. I'm running Lincoln .030 and it is a ton better than what the machine came with. Supposedly (internet rumour I've read, so I'm not entirely sure how much I'm willing to trust it) the spools of wire they sell separately at HF is made in Italy and is the same stuff that Lincoln sells, it's just the pack in spool that comes with the welder that is crappy Chinese wire, so once I use up the spool that came with it I might pick up a spool of actual Lincoln branded wire and a spool of the HF wire and do a side by side to see if there's a difference or not. Once I get more experienced I'll probably upgrade to a nicer Hobart or Lincoln unit, but for learning and small, non-critical jobs it seems like an ok unit so far. I'm at least getting full penetration through 1/8", which is all I really could ask for at the moment.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2015 06:20
|
|
|
I boogered together a work table and a chumpcar exhaust with my Harbor Freight fluxcore. It sucks but it melts metal together.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2015 06:46
|
|
|
InitialDave posted:As posted above, you can use them with a hand drill to clean up bores, in which case people will often refer to them as glaze-breakers, primarily to give a fresh surface for new piston rings. You can also use the smaller sized ones on things like brake master cylinders when doing seal kits, they can often rescue a borderline surface rather than having to replace the unit (and in some cases means you get to spend It looks large enough for the tiny pistons in an MG, otherwise I was going to suggest it was probably for the brake slave cylinders. Those have lovely seals and seem to continuously leak despite constant replacement and refurbishment. If he was an MG guy, I bet he'll find a smaller one around there somewhere.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2015 18:46
|
|
|
Has anyone found a transfer pump that works for more that a use or two? I'm talking about the kind that screws onto the bottle of oil. I've bought a couple of different ones at the parts stores, and they all brake in various stupid ways. Usually I get about a liter into the differential and then the pump smashes through the plastic cap and sends a spring into the bottle, leaving me a couple liters short. Usually this happens at around 9:01pm when there's no chance of getting another one. Luckily my 8.8 axle has the fill plug on the opposite side from the cover, and it's at an angle so I was able to make a funnel work. I usually pay about $10 for the white plastic pump that's available at the stores. Has anyone found one that is reliable? I don't mind a little leaking here and there, I just want to be able to fill stuff without breaking pumps.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2015 23:32
|
|
|
I use a length of garden hose and a funnel. The hose is just right to go into most fill plugs, so stuff it in, run the hose up/out to where you have room to pour, jam a funnel in it and cable tie it to something. Then you can just pour down the funnel from a comfortable position rather than loving about under the car.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2015 23:41
|
|
|
Astonishing Wang posted:Has anyone found a transfer pump that works for more that a use or two? I'm talking about the kind that screws onto the bottle of oil. I've bought a couple of different ones at the parts stores, and they all brake in various stupid ways. Usually I get about a liter into the differential and then the pump smashes through the plastic cap and sends a spring into the bottle, leaving me a couple liters short. Usually this happens at around 9:01pm when there's no chance of getting another one. Luckily my 8.8 axle has the fill plug on the opposite side from the cover, and it's at an angle so I was able to make a funnel work. I think I've gotten 3-4 uses out of the one from Amsoil (or was it redline?). It was cheap.
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2015 00:09
|
|
|
Astonishing Wang posted:Has anyone found a transfer pump that works for more that a use or two? I'm talking about the kind that screws onto the bottle of oil. I've bought a couple of different ones at the parts stores, and they all brake in various stupid ways. Usually I get about a liter into the differential and then the pump smashes through the plastic cap and sends a spring into the bottle, leaving me a couple liters short. Usually this happens at around 9:01pm when there's no chance of getting another one. Luckily my 8.8 axle has the fill plug on the opposite side from the cover, and it's at an angle so I was able to make a funnel work. Heat the oil up first, it flows easier and doesn't make you push so hard, which reduces the breaking.
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2015 00:25
|
|
|
Cool, I'll put it in the microwave for a few minutes. Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2015 01:13
|
|
|
the spyder posted:It looks large enough for the tiny pistons in an MG, otherwise I was going to suggest it was probably for the brake slave cylinders. Those have lovely seals and seem to continuously leak despite constant replacement and refurbishment. If he was an MG guy, I bet he'll find a smaller one around there somewhere. Good guess, the person who owned it before me was in fact an MG dude and a massive one. His last project was a mid 60's MGB set up like the ones that ran the monte carlo rally.
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2015 01:29
|
|
|
InitialDave posted:I use a length of garden hose and a funnel. The hose is just right to go into most fill plugs, so stuff it in, run the hose up/out to where you have room to pour, jam a funnel in it and cable tie it to something. Then you can just pour down the funnel from a comfortable position rather than loving about under the car. I just got back from buying 5 feet of clear tubing from Lowe's (<$3) to do exactly this. I bought the smallest diameter hose that would fit my smallest funnel so that there is less still in the hose once the diff starts overflowing.
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2015 01:42
|
|
|
I usually poke a small hole in the bottom of the gear oil bottle and push the blow nozzle from the compressor into it. Maintaining a small positive pressure in the bottle will force the oil into the diff or tranny really quickly.
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2015 02:42
|
|
|
I've said it before and I'll say it again. HF's composite ratchets are the poo poo. I'm over craftsman's ratchets. Also picked up the earthquake 1/2 impact gun.... 68 bucks with a coupon. I know there's better but not for the small amount I paid for this one.
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2015 03:53
|
|
|
Astonishing Wang posted:Has anyone found a transfer pump that works for more that a use or two? I'm talking about the kind that screws onto the bottle of oil. I've bought a couple of different ones at the parts stores, and they all brake in various stupid ways. Usually I get about a liter into the differential and then the pump smashes through the plastic cap and sends a spring into the bottle, leaving me a couple liters short. Usually this happens at around 9:01pm when there's no chance of getting another one. Luckily my 8.8 axle has the fill plug on the opposite side from the cover, and it's at an angle so I was able to make a funnel work. Hell with the liter and gallon jugs for anything but trail repairs... get it in 5 gallon pails and buy this: http://m.harborfreight.com/steel-lever-barrel-pump-3352.html?utm_referrer=direct%2Fnot%20provided E: save an assload of money in the long run, too, 5 gallons of coastal 85w140 is 60 bucks vs 1 quart at 6 bucks. That's about 50% savings AND it is less annoying to use. kastein fucked around with this message at 05:01 on Jan 8, 2015 |
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2015 04:48
|
|
|
BrokenKnucklez posted:Also picked up the earthquake 1/2 impact gun.... 68 bucks with a coupon. I know there's better but not for the small amount I paid for this one. That's a good price. I paid a hundred bucks. It's a pretty nice impact. Only issue I've had is the little snap ring fell off the very first time I used it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2015 14:10
|
|
|
I bought my (corded)impact from here: http://www.cpomilwaukee.com/ $99 on sale, warrantied, and free shipping, can't beat it. Has a guy's name engraved into the bottom of the handle but everything is spotlessly clean, and brand new inside and out.
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2015 17:48
|
|
|
This finally came in the mail yesterday! It is a bit bigger than I imagined from the listing but I am very impressed with the quality of it. Everything screws together very well with no slop in the threads. Hella excited to use it, and it even has an attachment that replaces the adjusting screw on a pair of vise grips so you can clamp onto stuff that the other attachments won't grab. Pic below with money for scale. 
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2015 18:16
|
|
|
Does it come with the starch tested $20?
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2015 09:46
|
|
|
Someone linked the rhino ramps for $35 at Advance Auto today, I can't find the post but I bought a set and picked them up in store with no hassle.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2015 06:49
|
|
|
I was having trouble getting my wheels off, so I paid a guy  to loosen them for me. When his impact gun didn't work, he busted out a breaker bar that looked like this. The connection between the driver and the bar was solid and it didn't look like it was experiencing any of the twist that I was getting when I put too much pressure on my store bought breaker bar trying to get the bolts undone. Is this something you can buy or was it a custom deal someone welded together? I've never seen a bar like it and it would have been much better to use than what I have now. (Mine looks like this and was twisting at the joint.) 
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2015 16:55
|
|
|
That sounds like a factory lug wrench that had been modified. My baker bar twists at the flex joint, but I've put an eight foot pipe on it and never broken it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2015 16:58
|
|
|
sharkytm posted:That sounds like a factory lug wrench that had been modified. My baker bar twists at the flex joint, but I've put an eight foot pipe on it and never broken it. The thing about his bar was that he was able to give it a few sharp pulls and the energy went straight into the bolt. When I do the same with mine, most of the energy goes into twisting the bar. I guess my better solution is to just not let anybody touch my wheels, ever. The last place that took them off was a shop that I've been to before that I've been really pleased with because they used a torque wrench. I guess this time they just used an impact gun for about five minutes to make sure the wheels wouldn't fall off.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2015 17:24
|
|
|
Is your breaker bar a 1/2" drive? Because I've found they normally cope with even the worst wheelnuts*, to the point that the stud would let go before the breaker bar was damaged. I do however have a 3-and-a-half foot long 3/4" one for big stuff, and there isn't a lot in automotive applications that you won't cope with using that. Things like M20 nuts blasted with two decades of road salt put up a bit of a fight. I've found I almost never need a cheater bar, but I'm a pretty big guy. *Land Rover's M16 studs are a bit of a special case, but that's moving away from "normal" cars.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2015 17:30
|
|
|
Yeah, it's a 1/2 bar from Farm & Fleet. Don't know the brand. Usually I don't have to strain at all, but it's because I torque everything down properly. I had to use a cheater bar once when I got the wheels back from the dealer (back of the envelope calculation came out to ~400-600 ft-lbs!). It just wasn't working this time and it was cold and I didn't want to deal with it. I could hunt down a better cheater bar. I was using the handle of my jack, but the difference in diameters is huge and that was adding even more slop that I wasn't comfortable with.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2015 17:36
|
|
|
I am not sure why that 45 degree bend would do anything good for him except make it easier to accidentally bend the lug sideways instead of turning it. My typical setup for difficult lugs is to set a jackstand about a foot away and at the same height as the lug, put the 4-way or a socket and extension across it, then put a cheater pipe on it and go at it. If you work it right, pushing mostly down on the handle, the jackstand keeps off axis torque to a minimum, which reduces twist/roundoff risk. If the drat thing gives me poo poo with 1/2 tools, it is time for 3/4 drive.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2015 17:40
|
|
|
My lug removal process: 1. Electric impact 2. Air impact 3. 1/2 breaker bar with jack handle extension 4. Add 6' fence post to jack handle/breaker bar assembly I make it all the way to step four sometimes but I've never had to go past that
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2015 17:47
|
|
|
Uthor posted:I had to use a cheater bar once when I got the wheels back from the dealer (back of the envelope calculation came out to ~400-600 ft-lbs!).  kastein posted:My typical setup for difficult lugs is to set a jackstand about a foot away and at the same height as the lug, put the 4-way or a socket and extension across it, then put a cheater pipe on it and go at it. If you work it right, pushing mostly down on the handle, the jackstand keeps off axis torque to a minimum, which reduces twist/roundoff risk.  I've found this is very useful myself, save for with a 4-way wheelbrace - they often seem to be quite cheaply made, and I've put a good twist in one before using it by hand.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2015 17:49
|
|
|
kastein posted:I am not sure why that 45 degree bend would do anything good for him except make it easier to accidentally bend the lug sideways instead of turning it. It kept a short distance from the bar to the bolt while keeping the bar away from the body of my car! (and my car has bolts that go into threaded holes in the hubs(?), so bending lugs isn't a concern) InitialDave posted:Like this: Gonna have to remember this. Eliminating downward force on the extension would have been nice!
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2015 17:56
|
|
|
Yeah, we use 3 foot 3/4" breaker bars at work when we're removing bogeys from trains, even the 980nm bolts holding the bogeys on come away without too much of a struggle, and never broken any yet They'll do 1600nm coupler bolts too, but thats cheating cause we've got a 5:1 multiplier
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2015 17:57
|
|
|
InitialDave posted:Yeah, that's the thing, I can manage that kind of torque without a cheater bar. Exactly what I meant - phoneposting, so no mspaint here right now. Twisted my cheap lovely 4way this way, but the larger one is fine with it. Fortunately 19mm/3/4" is the smallest lug nut I work on.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2015 18:07
|
|
|
Uthor posted:~400-600 ft-lbs!). Worth noting that static and moving torque values are not the same, they don't even have a linear relationship because materials, thread design and quality and condition, temp, corrosion, lube type and quality etc will all change the numbers. Look at plastic Gatorade bottles for a low-hanging-fruit example: the threads are shaped to make it take around three times as much force to loosen as they do to tighten.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2015 18:38
|
|
|
Anybody have any experience with this stuff? I've got a few small metal-working projects in mind and I figure it's worth a shot:
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2015 04:02
|
|
|
"Zink"? I've seen it demonstrated by a salesman at a gun show, it seemed to work. I don't know how well it holds up, though. Edit: also don't loving weld galvanized, that's bad. Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 09:28 on Jan 14, 2015 |
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2015 09:20
|
|
Bad Angus! Bad!
|
Oh god, now I have the Alumaloy Lady's dispassionate  voice running through my head. I saw this infomercial so many times as a kid. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TZ5sD9hQTyw
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2015 09:48
|
|
|
Looks more like brazing than welding. It probably works ok for some stuff but I doubt it has any structural abilities.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2015 15:38
|
|
|
Allegedly it is stronger than the base metal, at least on 6061 and cast alloys. Not sure I believe it. I had a lot of trouble getting it to actually bond to the base metal, probably because of how much/how little heat I had available. Their "weld with a propane torch!!!" schtick is great and all but the amount of heat you need depends entirely on the size and thickness of the parts being welded, as usual, and it's even more important on aluminum because it conducts heat so well.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2015 16:16
|
|
|
What metals are "zin
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2015 20:47
|
|
|
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pot_metal
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2015 20:56
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 02:47 |
|
|
Lol "monkey metal" I'm going to stop calling it pot metal from this day forward.
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2015 01:31
|
|
