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try it with a lime posted:Agreeing with 8th that HP5 pushes a little more organically to 3200. I like Tri-X from 400-1600, but it starts getting a little too messy at 3200. Depends on what you push it with, HC-110 is alright in semistand up to 6400. "Alright" is a relative term in TYOOL 2014 where digital sensors murder evrything film has ever done above iso 800
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Jan 2, 2015 03:41
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Helicity posted:gently caress, I love this thread and the medium/large format. You bastards prompted me to ditch my digital gear, and I love you for it.  Quantum of Phallus posted:Very nice. Thanks!
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Jan 2, 2015 06:45
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Yond Cassius posted:Reminder for everyone who received Astia! I haven't received any film yet, so unless your slice is in the mail, please do the following: I've got a roll already shot, and one halfway with 5 frame left in my camera, but I'm jobless at the moment and can't afford more film until that's taken care of. I still have to find someone local to send my film out from. The Modern Sky fucked around with this message at 08:53 on Jan 2, 2015 |
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Jan 2, 2015 08:32
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Understanding posted:I've got a roll already shot, and one halfway with 5 frame left in my camera, but I'm jobless at the moment and can't afford more film until that's taken care of. I still have to find someone local to send my film out from. LTI Lightside is pretty close to you, I think. Take your time if money is tight, but do try not to let it drag out too long.
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Jan 2, 2015 11:38
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Scored a Universal Roamer II at a thrift store for 8 bucks. My first step into medium format and I'd like some 120 recommendations for HC-110. Also any place selling 120 for less than 8 bucks a roll? Thanks!
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Jan 3, 2015 04:08
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I have a good amount of HC-110 that expired last Feburary. Anyway I can still use this stuff and it not gently caress my negs up? I'd hate to throw it away, but didn't know how lenient that expiration date is. I thought I remember reading that it could last pretty well past it, but don't know if I need to make any adjustments for the dilution.
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Jan 3, 2015 06:38
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pootiebigwang posted:I have a good amount of HC-110 that expired last Feburary. Anyway I can still use this stuff and it not gently caress my negs up? I'd hate to throw it away, but didn't know how lenient that expiration date is. I thought I remember reading that it could last pretty well past it, but don't know if I need to make any adjustments for the dilution. There are some guys on APUG that swear HC-110 is only really old when it's way past expired and brown and goopy.
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Jan 3, 2015 07:02
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HC-110 will leak out of the plastic bottle long before it's no longer suitable for use as a developer. If you can pour it you can use it, just like rodinal.
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Jan 3, 2015 08:54
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From what I've heard, HC-110 turns more and more yellow-brown as it oxidises so you should increase the concentration slightly more the darker it is.
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Jan 3, 2015 09:11
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I bought a bottle called a "datatainer" to decant my HC-110 because I'm terrified of all the leaky bottle stories I've read. The bottle for my Compard R-09 by comparison is bullet proof and sometimes I can't open the child proof cap, so basically you should buy Rodinal because the bottle is an heirloom investment piece.
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Jan 3, 2015 15:18
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ASSTASTIC posted:Also any place selling 120 for less than 8 bucks a roll? Thanks! You can get $3-5 rolls of film basically everywhere online if you buy 5-packs, including all the favorites: Tri-X, HP5, Portra, Ektar, etc. B&W is slightly cheaper than color from what I've seen. Freestyle Adorama B&H Amazon
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Jan 3, 2015 16:03
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8th-snype posted:HC-110 will leak out of the plastic bottle long before it's no longer suitable for use as a developer. If you can pour it you can use it, just like rodinal. Yup, my bottle split after like 3 years.
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Jan 4, 2015 05:01
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Shot some Tri-X with the F100 at my brothers wedding that I was the photographer for. I think I might have a crack at wet printing this one (x-posted in the wedding thread): Julie & Dad by mr_student, on Flickr
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Jan 4, 2015 23:29
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so I was trying that portra 400 thing everyone loves so much and some of my shots ended up rather dull, colour-wise: (I was expecting the foreground to be less pale) But others were alright:   Am I just expecting too much of unedited scans here?
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Jan 7, 2015 05:44
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basch posted:so I was trying that portra 400 thing everyone loves so much and some of my shots ended up rather dull, colour-wise: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u_qeZOWqchM
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Jan 7, 2015 05:52
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Okay fair enough 
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Jan 7, 2015 06:01
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Anybody in the Bay Area want an Omega D2 enlarger? I think it needs a bulb, I only use the other one and IIRC it's because only one had a working bulb. Otherwise seems... pretty ok? It's free, in Livermore.
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Jan 8, 2015 05:08
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First b&w dev turned out super ok I think. Some pictures lack contrast while others have too much but w-e. I don't see any weird marks either so the whole experience is a net positive.   (those are shite scans from small prints) It was HP5 pushed to 1600. I have to give props to you people who peer pressured me into trying it so cheers. e: Pukestain Pal posted:I couldn't believe how easy it was. Everytime I do it, I am still surprised it worked though. Exactly, it also was also weird to retrieve visual information by pouring chemicals and vinegar in a black plastic box. unpacked robinhood fucked around with this message at 19:41 on Jan 8, 2015 |
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Jan 8, 2015 19:32
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unpacked robinhood posted:I have to give props to you people who peer pressured me into trying it so cheers. I couldn't believe how easy it was. Everytime I do it, I am still surprised it worked though.
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Jan 8, 2015 19:36
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If you're worried about high contrast doing push development probably isn't the best idea
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Jan 8, 2015 20:01
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Every time I develop film, I screw up some new thing that I have never screwed up before, and it's only ever really negatively affected one roll that I can think of. And seriously, I've screwed up a lot, including pouring out the developer too early and then mixing a new batch to finish off the the roll before moving on to stop/fix.
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Jan 8, 2015 21:43
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Gonna buy some new developer tonight -- pretty sure I want HC110 unless anybody can think of some significant reason to get XTOL instead.
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Jan 9, 2015 04:39
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voodoorootbeer posted:Gonna buy some new developer tonight -- pretty sure I want HC110 unless anybody can think of some significant reason to get XTOL instead. I really like X-Tol, the only problem for me is that it comes in 5l bags. And since it's an A-B solution you will have to mix all five litres of it. But it's very environmentally friendly, good for pushing and gives you nice tones. Oh it also lasts way way way longer than Kodak specifies. I mainly use concentrate developers such as Rodinal/HC110/DD-X etc. for speed and convenience, but my main developer has always been X-Tol.
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Jan 9, 2015 06:10
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HC-110 is a great developer, but it's too viscous to measure easily, it smells kind of bad (worse smelling than fix and stays on your hands longer), and the bottles it comes in tend to leak. Technically, you're supposed to dilute the HC-110 into a stock concentration (which I think solves the viscosity problem) and then dilute some stock into a working solution. The problem there is that the stock solution has a way shorter shelf life than if you left the bottle alone. The bottle lasts for years and years, and some say HC-110 is even better when it turns brown and lumpy after a few years. That said, HC-110 seems to be the most popular liquid concentrate developer around, so there are lots of recipes online for anything you can think of to try to do. It has high acutance while not making overly grainy negs. It also is passable but not exceptional for stand development. To be honest, if I were kitting out a new home development operation, I would start with Rodinal before buying HC-110. Rodinal doesn't smell bad and is an easier viscosity to work with, but it does give you grainier images than HC-110 (but some say it also gives more perceived edge sharpness in high contrast scenes).
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Jan 9, 2015 15:40
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mulls posted:To be honest, if I were kitting out a new home development operation, I would start with Rodinal before buying HC-110. Rodinal doesn't smell bad and is an easier viscosity to work with, but it does give you grainier images than HC-110 (but some say it also gives more perceived edge sharpness in high contrast scenes). That's exactly what I did and I still like Rodinal but there's a time and a place for it. I want a solvent developer for finer grain and 5L of working solution sounds like a pain to deal with.
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Jan 9, 2015 15:57
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I like HC-110 because I can use it as a one shot developer which extends its shelf life pretty dramatically. Just developed some negs with some where the developer was one year past it's expiration date and it worked just as well as it did when it was fresh. Overall I am biased because it is the only developer I have ever used, but it is very versatile and there are dev times for every film imaginable.  Untitled by Dev Luns, on Flickr Untitled by Dev Luns, on Flickr
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Jan 9, 2015 16:05
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mulls posted:HC-110 is a great developer, but it's too viscous to measure easily, it smells kind of bad (worse smelling than fix and stays on your hands longer), and the bottles it comes in tend to leak. Technically, you're supposed to dilute the HC-110 into a stock concentration (which I think solves the viscosity problem) and then dilute some stock into a working solution. The problem there is that the stock solution has a way shorter shelf life than if you left the bottle alone. The bottle lasts for years and years, and some say HC-110 is even better when it turns brown and lumpy after a few years. Measure HC-110 with syringes. You can pick up 10cc ones and metal cannulas cheap on ebay.
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Jan 9, 2015 16:48
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8th-snype posted:Measure HC-110 with syringes. You can pick up 10cc ones and metal cannulas cheap on ebay. Yeah HC-110 is probably the easiest developer to measure quickly if you just use syringes and syrup. 6mL per roll.
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Jan 9, 2015 17:49
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Maybe my syringes are bad, but it's too viscous to go through the blunt needle and using the syringe without the needle means it doesn't reach far enough into the bottle. I just eyeball it with a graduated beaker, and it's fine. HC-110 is great, so go get it, but fair warning: it smells bad.
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Jan 9, 2015 19:32
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mulls posted:Maybe my syringes are bad, but it's too viscous to go through the blunt needle and using the syringe without the needle means it doesn't reach far enough into the bottle. I just eyeball it with a graduated beaker, and it's fine. Yeah, it's your syringe. A nurse gave me a few empty plastic ones without needles out of her purse once and they've lasted me for years. I don't really notice any kind of smell since it goes straight from bottle -> syringe -> working solution.
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Jan 9, 2015 19:40
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mulls posted:Maybe my syringes are bad, but it's too viscous to go through the blunt needle and using the syringe without the needle means it doesn't reach far enough into the bottle. I just eyeball it with a graduated beaker, and it's fine. a) get oral syringes (no needles, wide bore) b) pour the HC-110 into a little plastic beaker (like the ones you get with cough syrup) first
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Jan 9, 2015 19:53
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So I've learned that my Yashica Mat has terrible flare problems. If there is a light source even remotely close to the frame, it bleeds across the entire image. Need to get a lens hood, and probably flock the interior too. Despite that it still makes pictures, although they are admittedly not very good Ilford Delta-3200 taken at 3200, but I was pretty sure I underexposed everything, so I pushed to 6400 in stock D-76.  Blanket Texture by zacharytong, on Flickr  Begging by zacharytong, on Flickr What's the best way to keep negatives clean prior-to and during scanning? I did the whole shower steam thing before hanging to dry, then transferred to a sleeve after the strip dried. I wiped down my "scanning" apparatus (DSLR scanning setup) with a microfiber cloth, but still managed to get tons of dust and little fibers all over the final images. Should I just expect that all scans will need some photoshop cloning love?
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Jan 9, 2015 21:06
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I find that wiping with a microfiber cloth just imparts more dust onto the negatives. Hanging in a humid environment is a good way to keep dust from settling in the emulsion when it's wet, but when you go to scan, just blow them clean with some compressed air. Yours don't look too bad, though. Set the photoshop clone brush to "content aware" and go to town.
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Jan 9, 2015 21:10
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I use a small art brush (soft hair) on negatives I'm scanning or printing, it's pretty easy to get dust off then. Also, for the Yashica Mat check that the taking lens is clean. Set it to fully open aperture, bulb exposure, open the back and hold the shutter open.
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Jan 9, 2015 23:10
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polyfractal posted:So I've learned that my Yashica Mat has terrible flare problems. If there is a light source even remotely close to the frame, it bleeds across the entire image. Need to get a lens hood, and probably flock the interior too. Despite that it still makes pictures, although they are admittedly not very good Flocking fixed the problem almost entirely on my Mat. I'd look into that before a lens hood.
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Jan 10, 2015 00:24
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Syringe chat: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Blunt-dispe...=item3cdcbb50c0 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Weller-Luer-Lock-Syringe-20cc-Assembled-5Pcs-M20LLBA-/400786301190?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d50b9a106 Buy these and be set for many years.
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Jan 10, 2015 07:12
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The gently caress you need needles for at all? As I was saying, just decant a little syrup so you can just use the blunt tip of the syringes to suck up the developer.
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Jan 10, 2015 08:18
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MrBlandAverage posted:The gently caress you need needles for at all? As I was saying, just decant a little syrup so you can just use the blunt tip of the syringes to suck up the developer. I like them for reaching into the bottle when it gets low and it lets me use the syringe to stir solutions even in my larger graduated cylinder. Not strictly necessary but convenient. Not like blunted needles are dangerous or anything.
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Jan 10, 2015 09:41
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What's a decent place to order A4 negative sleeves with binder holes in europe ? Ebay doesn't seem to have lots of choices
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Jan 10, 2015 19:22
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BANME.sh posted:I find that wiping with a microfiber cloth just imparts more dust onto the negatives. Hanging in a humid environment is a good way to keep dust from settling in the emulsion when it's wet, but when you go to scan, just blow them clean with some compressed air. nielsm posted:I use a small art brush (soft hair) on negatives I'm scanning or printing, it's pretty easy to get dust off then. Ah, I didn't even think about compressed air or a soft brush. Will try that next time, and skip the the microfiber...I agree, it didn't seem to help and probably contributed all the little fibers. nielsm posted:Also, for the Yashica Mat check that the taking lens is clean. Set it to fully open aperture, bulb exposure, open the back and hold the shutter open. Just did this last weekend actually. I accidentally triggered the timer function which caused the shutter to jam, so I had to disassemble it to free up the shutter. While I had everything open I gave all the lenses a good cleaning. Shellman posted:Flocking fixed the problem almost entirely on my Mat. I'd look into that before a lens hood. Did you use this stuff, or something else? I have some dark, black velvet in a closet leftover from an old project...I'm wondering if I can just use that instead?
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Jan 10, 2015 20:15
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