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bellows lugosi
Aug 9, 2003

Some fireworks from halloween

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David Pratt
Apr 21, 2001

Josef K. Sourdust posted:

FULLMOON by Darren Almond. He takes 15 min exposures under full moon. The book has about 300+ photos. The book isn't cheap but is very handsome (and large). Check it out here: http://www.taschen.com/pages/en/catalogue/photography/all/03123/facts.darren_almond_fullmoon.htm

I like it a lot.

tohveli
Nov 25, 2007

♪ オー マリア
Beginner hobbyist here. First night photograph I'm even halfway content with.


Sibeliustalo from afar
ISO 100, 250mm, f/8, 8sec

The lake is frozen, but the temperature had climbed back up and melted the surface just enough to make it smooth and reflective

tohveli fucked around with this message at 22:31 on Jan 11, 2015

Putrid Grin
Sep 16, 2007

tohveli posted:

Beginner hobbyist here. First night photograph I'm even halfway contempt with.


I think the word you are looking for is content, because its a very cool picture.

sporklift
Aug 3, 2008

Feelin' it so hard.

Another beginner hobbyist. The main reason I got myself a DSLR was for night photography.

Happy with this one.


Cape Kiwanda Long Exposure by sporklift, on Flickr

Whirlwind Jones
Apr 13, 2013

by Lowtax
You're about 10 stops off on your aperture there. Try cranking the iso instead. Or finding a better lit area to photograph.

It's nice, but pretty muddy.

deaders
Jun 14, 2002

Someone felt sorry enough for me to change my custom title.
Never mind that, the photo is rad. Nice work.

VomitOnLino
Jun 13, 2005

Sometimes I get lost.

sporklift posted:

Another beginner hobbyist. The main reason I got myself a DSLR was for night photography.

Happy with this one.


Cape Kiwanda Long Exposure by sporklift, on Flickr

That landscape is rad. Don't change a thing. (Except maybe boosting the shadows a tiny, tiny bit.)
As to why you shouldn't, I might direct to my other post here.

Rev. Bleech_
Oct 19, 2004

~OKAY, WE'LL DRINK TO OUR LEGS!~

After finally getting around to getting a good shutter release cable (not a beginner-beginner, but a hobbyist who finally got a DSLR awhile back) I've enjoyed futzing with it every so often the last couple of months.

What might have been a great beach/lightning shot had I not had the ISO set ridiculously high for some reason

20140908-220151-DSC_3869 by revbleech, on Flickr


20140926-DSC_4304 by revbleech, on Flickr

BANME.sh
Jan 23, 2008

What is this??
Are you some kind of hypnotist??
Grimey Drawer

Whirlwind Jones posted:

You're about 10 stops off on your aperture there. Try cranking the iso instead. Or finding a better lit area to photograph.

It's nice, but pretty muddy.

Yeah I was gonna recommend closing the aperture to get a sharper image but the exposure is already 30 seconds long and that's probably the upper limit of the D7000.

I like the level of exposure as it is, though.

sporklift
Aug 3, 2008

Feelin' it so hard.

Whirlwind Jones posted:

You're about 10 stops off on your aperture there. Try cranking the iso instead. Or finding a better lit area to photograph.

It's nice, but pretty muddy.

Thank you for your feedback. I am really new to this. So I should have been f11 and iso 1600? Would the noise from the high iso cancel out the sharpness though? Also the only previous long exposures I have done were in the city. I was not really ready for the total darkness out here. I really need to do more than just skim Understanding Exposure but I was just kinda excited to get out and shoot. Oh, another thing that might have effected the muddiness was my extremely lovely tripod and the fact that I don't have a cable or remote to fire with yet so I fired from the camera.


This is the original for comparison.


VomitOnLino posted:

That landscape is rad. Don't change a thing. (Except maybe boosting the shadows a tiny, tiny bit.)
As to why you shouldn't, I might direct to my other post here.

Cool. I really cranked the blacks on this post process. I was just messing with the sliders in LR and it just felt like a better image. I need to get over the feeling that post process is somehow cheating don't I?

BANME.sh
Jan 23, 2008

What is this??
Are you some kind of hypnotist??
Grimey Drawer
High ISO long exposures don't come out that great. Instead switch to bulb mode and hold something in front of the lens. While the lens is covered, press the shutter and wait for the camera to stop vibrating, then uncover the lens. This will let you take exposures as long as you want, even hours. When you are done, quickly cover the lens again and press the shutter button a second time to close it. This won't work on the D7000 without a remote. You need a remote.

Buy a remote for a dollar

sporklift posted:

Cool. I really cranked the blacks on this post process. I was just messing with the sliders in LR and it just felt like a better image. I need to get over the feeling that post process is somehow cheating don't I?

Post processing is part of photography. It has been since the days when people would spend hours in the darkroom dodging and burning their prints. It's up to you how overboard you want to take it, though.

BANME.sh fucked around with this message at 19:55 on Jan 15, 2015

sporklift
Aug 3, 2008

Feelin' it so hard.

BANME.sh posted:

Buy a remote for a dollar

I bought one of those but it was DOA. Just haven't gotten around to getting another.

BANME.sh
Jan 23, 2008

What is this??
Are you some kind of hypnotist??
Grimey Drawer
You have to put your camera in remote shutter release mode for it to work. Don't mean to insult you but that had me thinking the remote was broken when I was a beginner too.

Also I found that other bright lights in a room can overpower the IR remote and the camera won't pick it up. I had to experiment quite a bit.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

I have a $20 micro-USB cable release that works fantastic with my d7k. Just got it from a local brick and mortar.

Venusian Weasel
Nov 18, 2011

I've been taking pictures of Comet Lovejoy the last couple of weeks. Most of it's been high-power telephoto shots that aren't particularly good, but I did manage to get a really nice widefield shot of it last night:


Comet Lovejoy and the Taurus Dust Complex by venusian-weasel, on Flickr

It's 45 30-second exposures stacked together to bring out some of the faint detail, like the comet's tail and nebula. On the flipside, the stacking process also makes the really faint stars appear brighter than they really are, so using some Photoshop tricks I was able to reduce the brightness of the fainter stars a bit to make the brighter stars stand out a little better.

Shrieking Muppet
Jul 16, 2006
I finally got around to try some long exposures down town, I want to do more but its too cold for the camera.


Albany at Night by Shrieking Muppet, on Flickr


Albany at Night by Shrieking Muppet, on Flickr


Albany at Night by Shrieking Muppet, on Flickr

I've also been toying around with Stuff under black light, need to find some compounds that are colors other than blue.


Have a Drink by Shrieking Muppet, on Flickr

akadajet
Sep 14, 2003

I'm pretty new to this whole taking pictures thing. Went out to DC in last night in the cold because I'm dumb.

Layered a couple of exposures on these two to get the result. Hopefully they don't look too awful.

IMG_3985 by jetaylordotnet, on Flickr


IMG_4014 by jetaylordotnet, on Flickr

This one is just one exposure since it's pretty poorly lit at night. Laughed at the people there trying to get selfies on their iPhones and complaining about not being able to see anything.

IMG_4003 by jetaylordotnet, on Flickr

I'd like to go back there and get a few more shots, but drat it's cold.

Dren
Jan 5, 2001

Pillbug

Ezekiel_980 posted:

I've also been toying around with Stuff under black light, need to find some compounds that are colors other than blue.

Open up some hilighters and squeeze out the center thing with all the hilighter ink into some water. Under black light it will glow the color of the hilighter.

sporklift
Aug 3, 2008

Feelin' it so hard.

BANME.sh posted:

You have to put your camera in remote shutter release mode for it to work. Don't mean to insult you but that had me thinking the remote was broken when I was a beginner too.

Also I found that other bright lights in a room can overpower the IR remote and the camera won't pick it up. I had to experiment quite a bit.
Thanks, got that remote to work. Goofin' around waiting for my beef to rest. 15 sec @ f22.


whiskey and beef by sporklift, on Flickr

polyfractal
Dec 20, 2004

Unwind my riddle.

Venusian Weasel posted:

I've been taking pictures of Comet Lovejoy the last couple of weeks. Most of it's been high-power telephoto shots that aren't particularly good, but I did manage to get a really nice widefield shot of it last night:


Comet Lovejoy and the Taurus Dust Complex by venusian-weasel, on Flickr

It's 45 30-second exposures stacked together to bring out some of the faint detail, like the comet's tail and nebula. On the flipside, the stacking process also makes the really faint stars appear brighter than they really are, so using some Photoshop tricks I was able to reduce the brightness of the fainter stars a bit to make the brighter stars stand out a little better.

This is fantastic, great work! Did you still use your regular GEM, or just a regular tripod?

Edit: nevermind, found your explanation in the astro thread. Awesome! (for those curious, he used a GEM)

polyfractal fucked around with this message at 19:48 on Jan 19, 2015

akadajet
Sep 14, 2003


Martin Luther King, Jr. Memorial by jetaylordotnet, on Flickr

BANME.sh
Jan 23, 2008

What is this??
Are you some kind of hypnotist??
Grimey Drawer


Shrieking Muppet
Jul 16, 2006

How do you decide how long to expose for in your shots? I want to try long exposures downtown again but on my pentax and i'm clueless of what to set f-stops and shutter for on Portra 400 (if that is the best choice surrounded by lights)

BANME.sh
Jan 23, 2008

What is this??
Are you some kind of hypnotist??
Grimey Drawer
I struggled with the same thing for a while but I found that exposing for EV3 (average streetlights) most of the time seems to give good results. If you have an iPhone get the Expositure app - it'll let you choose an EV to shoot for, and then tell you the shutter speed to use based on any combo of fstop and ISO. Then of course correct for reciprocity. Another iPhone app called "reciprocity timer" has a library of corrections for every film type.

Impact Damage
Mar 1, 2007

Try to avoid these conditions as much as possible.


bellows lugosi
Aug 9, 2003

Ezekiel_980 posted:

How do you decide how long to expose for in your shots? I want to try long exposures downtown again but on my pentax and i'm clueless of what to set f-stops and shutter for on Portra 400 (if that is the best choice surrounded by lights)

I use an incident meter and a reciprocity chart for Portra 400.

If it's super dark I'll just go for f/22 at 20 minutes, which is how those two were exposed.

DorianGravy
Sep 12, 2007

Lightning is so much fun to take photos of.



huhu
Feb 24, 2006

7-365 Stars and Palm Trees (Cocle, Panama) by esa_foto, on Flickr

lollybo
Dec 29, 2008
One Hour Color by kgao1989, on Flickr

Pretty happy with how this turned out. Maybe I could have altered the composition here or there but overall it was okay.

Spedman
Mar 12, 2010

Kangaroos hate Hasselblads
Some Portra 400 at New Years, with the trademark GW690 long exposure streaks


Melbourne 2014-15 by mr_student, on Flickr


Melbourne 2014-15 by mr_student, on Flickr

BANME.sh
Jan 23, 2008

What is this??
Are you some kind of hypnotist??
Grimey Drawer

Spedman posted:

trademark GW690 long exposure streaks

I've never experienced this, what do you mean?

VomitOnLino
Jun 13, 2005

Sometimes I get lost.

BANME.sh posted:

I've never experienced this, what do you mean?

From another GW690 owner: In Fuji's cheap-out T-Mode the shutter only closes when advancing the film.
Hence moving the film causes bright light sources to make these kind of streaks.

The solution is obviously to use your hand or lens-cap before you wind on.
I've verified this with my GW690 II and asked Fuji -- it is apparently expected behavior.

toggle
Nov 7, 2005

Helmacron posted:



Long exposure, infrared shot of the mungo sand dunes (Mungo National Park, Australia) on a really dirty element. Kangaroo, emu and snake tracks in the foreground, sunset in the background.


That's awesome!

Spedman
Mar 12, 2010

Kangaroos hate Hasselblads

VomitOnLino posted:

From another GW690 owner: In Fuji's cheap-out T-Mode the shutter only closes when advancing the film.
Hence moving the film causes bright light sources to make these kind of streaks.

The solution is obviously to use your hand or lens-cap before you wind on.
I've verified this with my GW690 II and asked Fuji -- it is apparently expected behavior.

Bingo! I was a little bit too "relaxed" at that point of the night to give a poo poo about covering the lens before winding on.

VomitOnLino
Jun 13, 2005

Sometimes I get lost.

Spedman posted:

Bingo! I was a little bit too "relaxed" at that point of the night to give a poo poo about covering the lens before winding on.

Yeah, I've done the same. And pretty much everything about that GW690's shutter says cheap to me.
From the sound to how it looks and that T mode. That said, the camera was original made for 120 short rolls (containing 4 shots on 6x9) to document bus tours throughout Japan. So there's that...

Re: Streaks: It's not a super shot, but it's interesting that I managed to wind on fast enough to catch the fluorescents' strobing pattern.

Spedman
Mar 12, 2010

Kangaroos hate Hasselblads
The shutter doesn't feel top quality at all, compared to the Compur-3 shutter I've got on my 8x10 it feels cheap. But that glass is oh-so-lovely.

accipter
Sep 12, 2003
Two unedited self portraits from Stinson Beach.




My biggest issue with night photography is focusing. Are there any tricks? I have an electronic focus ring so understanding what will be in focus is a challenge. My current technique is to focus way close in, and then back out a little bit. Clearly, I have some room for improvement.

RangerScum
Apr 6, 2006

lol hey there buddy

accipter posted:

My biggest issue with night photography is focusing. Are there any tricks? I have an electronic focus ring so understanding what will be in focus is a challenge. My current technique is to focus way close in, and then back out a little bit. Clearly, I have some room for improvement.

Set your focus to infinity.

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xzzy
Mar 5, 2009

RangerScum posted:

Set your focus to infinity.

And know where it is before you're out at night.

Because it's rather difficult when everything in the viewfinder is completely black.

(a live view mode might save you but depending how complete the darkness is that might not be enough either)

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