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Just replace with the original ones from a crashed car. Depending on the year you can reaim them easily yourself, there's a bolt on the back of them.
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Jan 10, 2015 05:08
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I think I need new headlights. Is that something I can replace myself without needing to re-aim them? And what brand should I go for? I haven't replaced these things in the 5 years I've owned the car, and I didn't notice any mention of them being replaced in the notes the PO left in the manual last time I was looking through it. Do you need whole new headlights or just bulbs?
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Jan 10, 2015 05:12
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I think just bulbs. They have just gotten dangerously dim, I didn't realize how bad they were until I had to go up into the mountains a couple nights ago.
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Jan 10, 2015 17:37
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I think just bulbs. They have just gotten dangerously dim, I didn't realize how bad they were until I had to go up into the mountains a couple nights ago. Perhaps your plastic headlight lenses have hazed over?
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Jan 10, 2015 17:38
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Having not really driven in the snow much before, I was shocked at how dirty my headlights had become. I could barely see anything, even with the HIDs. Gotta get used to cleaning those before I drive now.
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Jan 10, 2015 18:27
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I think just bulbs. They have just gotten dangerously dim, I didn't realize how bad they were until I had to go up into the mountains a couple nights ago. It sounds like they are glazed over, my Legacy needs them buffed about once a year. You can get a kit from any auto parts store that has sandpaper and a compound in it...you wet sand the glaze away and then use the compound to buff it out. It makes a huge difference. i own every Bionicle fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Jan 10, 2015 |
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Jan 10, 2015 18:52
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If I can't get subaru coolant what is the next best coolant to get?
G-Mach fucked around with this message at 19:43 on Jan 10, 2015 |
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Jan 10, 2015 19:38
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Subaru coolant. You can get it off Amazon.
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Jan 10, 2015 20:17
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Wojcigitty posted:It sounds like they are glazed over, my Legacy needs them buffed about once a year. You can get a kit from any auto parts store that has sandpaper and a compound in it...you wet sand the glaze away and then use the compound to buff it out. It makes a huge difference. I did that maybe 8 months ago. I can give it a try again, but honestly I've never noticed a big difference with that stuff.
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Jan 10, 2015 21:20
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Got my first subaru wave in socal for 3 years! Speaking of making my day, I walked into a high end dealership in socal to gawk at a carrera gt and the salesman kept talking to me about how awesome my wagon was.
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Jan 10, 2015 21:22
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The first time you deglaze your headlights it usually takes off the factory UV coating, speeding up the re-clouding process. Basically once you start, you have to keep at it, and more frequently over time. After a while it becomes easier to replace the housings than redo it every month, but there is a ways to go.
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Jan 10, 2015 21:23
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My '06 wagon goes through headlight bulbs like nobody's business. I have no idea why. I got pulled over by the cops on the way to work two nights ago because one was out, and replaced it when I got to work. It was twelve degrees outside. It took a bit of time before my fingers felt normal again.
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Jan 10, 2015 21:42
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tetrapyloctomy posted:My '06 wagon goes through headlight bulbs like nobody's business. I have no idea why. I got pulled over by the cops on the way to work two nights ago because one was out, and replaced it when I got to work. It was twelve degrees outside. It took a bit of time before my fingers felt normal again. Check your alternator output. Frequent headlight replacement is one of the first signs of excessive voltage from the charging system. Most radios and ECUs have their own internal regulation so the next most sensitive component to overvoltage is the headlight bulbs.
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Jan 10, 2015 21:48
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tetrapyloctomy posted:My '06 wagon goes through headlight bulbs like nobody's business. I have no idea why. I got pulled over by the cops on the way to work two nights ago because one was out, and replaced it when I got to work. It was twelve degrees outside. It took a bit of time before my fingers felt normal again. I switched from those stupid higher output bulbs to cheap ones and they last way longer. I need new headlights though, but 05 LGT headlights were a one year thing so I can't really get clean junkyard ones. One of mine had the clearnplastic melt inside so I can't clear them.
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Jan 10, 2015 22:05
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si posted:Subaru coolant. What is so special about Subaru Coolant? Built in Stop leak for headgaskets?
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Jan 10, 2015 22:13
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G-Mach posted:If I can't get subaru coolant what is the next best coolant to get? Pre-mixed Prestone (blue cap). daslog posted:What is so special about Subaru Coolant? Built in Stop leak for headgaskets? Naw, just aluminum safe. The OEM "radweld" comes in a separate bottle (from the dealership).
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Jan 10, 2015 23:04
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Jonny 290 posted:The first time you deglaze your headlights it usually takes off the factory UV coating, speeding up the re-clouding process. Basically once you start, you have to keep at it, and more frequently over time. After a while it becomes easier to replace the housings than redo it every month, but there is a ways to go. I think there are UV sealants you can apply after sanding/buffing. I wax my headlights, hopefully it will make them last.
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Jan 11, 2015 02:40
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Internet Explorer posted:Having not really driven in the snow much before, I was shocked at how dirty my headlights had become. I could barely see anything, even with the HIDs. Gotta get used to cleaning those before I drive now. HIDs in particular seem to be affected by dirty lenses more than other kinds of lights; I don't know why. I have noticed that in a lot of cars sold in the EU that HID headlights mandate the installation of headlight washers (for instance, the 06 STI has headlight washers in the UK, but not in NA), so maybe there is a technical reason for it and it's not just my imagination.
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Jan 11, 2015 03:24
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Think one of my front wheel bearings is toast. Timken (HA590315) is generally preferred for replacements, right? Amazon is slightly ahead of RA on cost, by about 3 bucks, so I'm indifferent. Anything else to be aware of/be ready for? Straight forward replacement since it's a hub assembly.
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Jan 12, 2015 20:14
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Subaru folk, enlighten me - anything else to make sure gets done on a 2008 (or 09, I can never remember) WRX for a timing belt service? Off the top of my head I've got all pulleys / tensioners / whatever, water pump, and cam/crank seals. Finally put my brother-in-law's car on ramps to discover that the steering rack is pissing fluid out of the steering input shaft seal, and after crawling around under there I think I'd rather chop off a toe than do the rack. It's also coming up on (or maybe already past?) 100k miles and doesn't have any records of a prior timing belt job. He's supposed to be calling around a few shops to get quotes but I want to make sure he's not going to get a halfass job done and have to go back in again so that I don't have to hear the endless bitching from my wife's sister.
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Jan 13, 2015 18:04
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MalleusDei posted:My 2005 Legacy GT has/is developed/developing a whine, starting about 30mph or so. Its a 5 speed, and the noise becomes obvious in 3rd. Curiously, the noise is present clutch in, or clutch out. I can't remember if I've tried shifting to neutral and coasting at the speed where it becomes obvious. Seems to get louder during shifts, when the gear lever is moved all the way, i.e. shifting in to 4th and pulled all the way to the rear. After some research, I'm leaning towards a bearing in the transmission. Should I take this to any old transmission shop, or should I hit a Subaru specific place? Any recommendations in the Seattle area for either?
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Jan 13, 2015 20:27
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IOwnCalculus posted:Subaru folk, enlighten me - anything else to make sure gets done on a 2008 (or 09, I can never remember) WRX for a timing belt service? Off the top of my head I've got all pulleys / tensioners / whatever, water pump, and cam/crank seals. Finally put my brother-in-law's car on ramps to discover that the steering rack is pissing fluid out of the steering input shaft seal, and after crawling around under there I think I'd rather chop off a toe than do the rack. It's also coming up on (or maybe already past?) 100k miles and doesn't have any records of a prior timing belt job. Spark plugs and drive belt are the only other things I can think of. You're supposed to do all that at 60k, I'm impressed it's lasted this long without it. Did it shoot a rod yet or is it outside if the vin range for that particular issue?
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Jan 14, 2015 06:37
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Timing belt service isn't at 60k, it's at 105k.
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Jan 14, 2015 06:40
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bull3964 posted:Timing belt service isn't at 60k, it's at 105k. Oops, that's an "inspect" item, you're right.
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Jan 14, 2015 06:43
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Just wanted to report that I drove 20 miles to work this morning in freezing rain and 27 degrees on Continental ExtremeContact DW's and experienced no traction loss. This is the first year I've run summers on the legacy and I decided to chance an NC winter on them, so far I'm beyond impressed, especially given how much better they grip than all-seasons when it's warm. I mean I was cautious and wasn't driving like as much of an rear end in a top hat as usual but still, it surprised me.
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Jan 14, 2015 17:13
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daslog posted:So whats' the verdict on Gates water pumps? Are they still good or has the quality dropped to Lower grade Chinese garbage? From what I gathered when researching this, the Gates timing belt kits have a version that does include the water pump and one that does not, and the Gates pump that comes in the kit isn't the same one that is sold outside of the kit. I could be completely wrong on this. I'm about to do the timing belt on my FXT and am rolling the dice with the Gates pump I bought separate of the kit. I don't drive very far though. Hell I put gas in it for the first time in 6 weeks today.
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Jan 14, 2015 17:27
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Question for Forester crew: Do you all keep that stupid plastic guard that's underneath the engine? I took it off to diagnose an issue and I'm debating on whether or not to put it back. I live in Florida so salt is a non-issue.
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Jan 14, 2015 17:30
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It's an aerodynamic issue as well and it probably factors into sucking warm air out of the engine bay.
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Jan 14, 2015 17:41
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That panel has been beat to gently caress in my legacy and I've gone at it with tin snips a few times just to get rid of broken pieces hanging down. The back half is currently missing. My car's not even that low!
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Jan 14, 2015 17:52
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the last time I had to gently caress with mine I found out it was being held up by only 3 bolts, the rest of the holes had all been torn out and were hanging loose. does anyone make a metal skid-plate that replaces it?
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Jan 14, 2015 17:54
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Scrambles posted:That panel has been beat to gently caress in my legacy and I've gone at it with tin snips a few times just to get rid of broken pieces hanging down. The back half is currently missing. My car's not even that low! mine's missing all of the access doors.
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Jan 14, 2015 18:00
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Terrible Robot posted:the last time I had to gently caress with mine I found out it was being held up by only 3 bolts, the rest of the holes had all been torn out and were hanging loose. Primitive does. I've had two of their skidplates. They're great. http://www.writerguy.com/primitive/skidplate/skid_forester.htm
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Jan 14, 2015 18:05
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I was actually surprised to see that my BRZ is metal rather than plastic under there. Are the new Imprezas/WRX like that since they don't need access to the oil filter?
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Jan 14, 2015 18:12
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Primitive does. I've had two of their skidplates. They're great. I've taken some decent hits with the thick one on the rally car without issue. I've also got one for my wagon I only throw on occasionally. I do generally see better fuel economy with it on though.
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Jan 14, 2015 18:49
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Primitive does. I've had two of their skidplates. They're great. Awesome. Now to take care of all the other $200 fixes the drat thing needs before I can start saving up for that skid-plate...
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Jan 14, 2015 19:26
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bull3964 posted:I was actually surprised to see that my BRZ is metal rather than plastic under there. Are the new Imprezas/WRX like that since they don't need access to the oil filter? I have a plastic thing.
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Jan 14, 2015 20:12
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I have to ask, why don't the new WRX's need access to the oil filter?
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Jan 15, 2015 10:00
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VelociBacon posted:I have to ask, why don't the new WRX's need access to the oil filter? 2.0L engine has filter access from under the hood.
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Jan 15, 2015 13:21
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The e-brake lever in my 06 outback is kind of sticky. If I yank it up and then put it back down, it seems to lose all tension until I wiggle it a few times with the button depressed and/or press the brake pedal a few times. Can I just replace the return spring, or should I look at the brake shoe assembly behind the rotor?
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Jan 16, 2015 00:53
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bull3964 posted:I was actually surprised to see that my BRZ is metal rather than plastic under there. Are the new Imprezas/WRX like that since they don't need access to the oil filter? My 2015 WRX is mostly plastic, but right in the middle of all the front aero bits is a big aluminum skid plate covering the turbo. There's also a couple beefy looking aluminum rails supporting it (and only that plate) as well.
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Jan 16, 2015 02:50
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