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Gay Nudist Dad posted:I need some guidance. Recently I've ended up with some handed down stereo equipment: a Pioneer SA-9900 amp, which is cosmetically perfect but has power supply issues (and is in for repair), a matching SX-9500 tuner which is perfect, JBL J320A speakers which look in good shape but haven't been tested, and two turntables from very different eras. Both were apparently $100 units in their respective decades. Keep the PL-10. Besides being older and looking cooler, it has a replaceable cartridge that would be an upgrade route in the future. Does the platter spin freely when you turn it? A platter should continue to spin for 45 seconds to 1 minute when you give it a good spin by hand (disconnect the belt first to remove tension). If it's the original belt, it's likely turned to gum by now. If you try removing it, it might crumble apart and leave a horrible residue on the platter. You'll have to clean it off really well with alcohol and/or warm soapy water. You can get a new belt for just under $20 here http://www.lpgear.com/category/P3.html
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Jan 5, 2015 17:18
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BANME.sh posted:The service manual almost always lists the voltage and amp rating for bulbs. If you can track it down. This is often worth doing. IIRC, some Marantz receivers will burn up their FM decoder IC (often the only IC in the entire system) if you use the wrong lamp for the STEREO indicator, and it's an entirely different voltage from all of the other lamps in the system.
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Jan 5, 2015 21:25
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minivanmegafun posted:This is often worth doing. IIRC, some Marantz receivers will burn up their FM decoder IC (often the only IC in the entire system) if you use the wrong lamp for the STEREO indicator, and it's an entirely different voltage from all of the other lamps in the system. I had a stereo that wouldn't turn on at all if the power lamp was burnt out. I don't know why I didn't think to suggest looking up the service manual. They are a huge help fixing stuff. Some of them even have wire diagrams. That saved my life when I fixed my old tube radio.
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Jan 5, 2015 21:56
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TomR posted:I had a stereo that wouldn't turn on at all if the power lamp was burnt out. I don't know why I didn't think to suggest looking up the service manual. They are a huge help fixing stuff. Some of them even have wire diagrams. That saved my life when I fixed my old tube radio. It's sort of a pos Nikko from 1980 (that I think sounds sweet, but regardless). I haven't been able to find a service manual online. I wired they 6v lamp in and it seems good as new. Thanks all.
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Jan 5, 2015 23:24
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This old magnavox console I posted about last week (made in '62, original and full of vacuum tubes).... Its got an Aux in on the tuner. I've been plugging my phone into it via a 3.5mm to RCA cable, but I had read that turning the volume on the phone up too much can overload the tuner. Is there any truth to this? I haven't gone any further than half volume, but I've gotta turn the console volume up to hear much at all and even then it sounds flat. Before I take the back off again and check the connection I was curious if it could be because the phone volume is low. Does this sound possible? Edit* Nevermind, cranked the volume up and its fine. I saw one post about it among the 50 or so posts I've read so I'm thinking it was BS especially since its straight from the phone.
a dingus fucked around with this message at 02:11 on Jan 6, 2015 |
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Jan 6, 2015 02:01
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Welp. Found a Technics SL-QL1 at a pawn shop today. Didn't have a price on it so they said "How about $30"? I don't even need another TT but it looks like I might have to find something to do with it.
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Jan 12, 2015 06:19
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I found this browsing flickr and it looks cool so I thought I'd share. There are more photos of stuff in the guys stream. https://flic.kr/p/qu78RZ 
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Jan 12, 2015 16:54
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TomR posted:I found this browsing flickr and it looks cool so I thought I'd share. There are more photos of stuff in the guys stream. That's cool, but I think I hate rosewood. It's gaudy.
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Jan 12, 2015 17:09
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I feel the same way about cherry wood.
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Jan 12, 2015 17:28
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I'm in the market for new floorstanding speakers. Inputs: Technics SL-1200 Mk2, Sonos CONNECT Amplifier: Yamaha CR-2020 Music: Rock, Metal, Jazz I'm currently using Roth Audio OLi 30s, which I got because they looked decent and were on Amazon for $200. Not the worst decision, but I figure I could get something vintage for not much cash that will easily outperform them. Also, these things are so efficient they barely move the needle on the power output of the CR-2020, which as far as I am concerned is a massive missed opportunity. What out there makes a good pairing?
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Jan 12, 2015 18:05
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primitive posted:I'm in the market for new floorstanding speakers. For rock and metal maybe a pair of JBL 100's? They made a million of them so they're probably easy to find. And they have the uber 70's blue foam grille. EDIT: ok, they seem to be super expensive on Ebay. Weren't they the single most popular hi-fi speaker of the mid-70's? Why are pairs going for $1000? BigFactory fucked around with this message at 18:57 on Jan 12, 2015 |
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Jan 12, 2015 18:54
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BigFactory posted:For rock and metal maybe a pair of JBL 100's? They made a million of them so they're probably easy to find. And they have the uber 70's blue foam grille. Dad nostalgia, maybe? I think they're the go-to speaker choice for a lot of people. I don't think they're particularly good, but a lot of people like how they sound. primitive posted:I'm in the market for new floorstanding speakers. I would pick up some vintage (70-90s) B&W speakers off of Craigslist. I've gone through all the entry-level hi-fi speakers: Klipch Heresys, JBL 4312s (cousin to the 100), Polk Monitor 7As, etc. A pair of B+W DM2000s I bought off of Craiglist blow all of them out of the water. You could probably get some 600 or 700 series speakers or even Matrix's if you find a good deal. They are power-hungry, which should satisfy the CR-2020 (>100 watts I think)
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Jan 12, 2015 19:18
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Has anyone here ever had any success with painting/staining the wood on their receiver? I have a Pioneer Sx-626 that's a little beat up on the wood part, and I'd prefer it black.
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Jan 12, 2015 19:38
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Chill Callahan posted:I would pick up some vintage (70-90s) B&W speakers off of Craigslist. I've gone through all the entry-level hi-fi speakers: Klipch Heresys, JBL 4312s (cousin to the 100), Polk Monitor 7As, etc. A pair of B+W DM2000s I bought off of Craiglist blow all of them out of the water. You could probably get some 600 or 700 series speakers or even Matrix's if you find a good deal. They are power-hungry, which should satisfy the CR-2020 (>100 watts I think) My B&W DM-2's are the best sounding speaker I've ever owned, and they were less than $200 bucks.
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Jan 12, 2015 20:13
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If I hear buzzing/static from about 35% volume and up, are there any possible solutions? Power conditioner maybe? Setup is AT-LP1240->Marantz PM5004. The RCA cable that came with the TT has ground spades at each end, which are duly connected to the grounds on the TT and amp. The Marantz does not have a ground on its power plug, oddly enough. The speakers are a bit close to the TT (on one side anyway), but moving them does not seem to affect the buzzing.
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Jan 15, 2015 16:33
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TheQat posted:If I hear buzzing/static from about 35% volume and up, are there any possible solutions? Power conditioner maybe? The manual for that integrated amp tell you to disconnect the ground wire, strangely enough, if you hear buzzing. ("If humming or other noise is generated when the ground wire is connected, disconnect it") Also it mentions "Do not bundle power cords with connection cables. Doing so can result in humming or noise." http://www.nhthifi.com/site/pdf/PM5004_OM.pdf Also I would try to make sure that the amp is the only thing plugged into the outlet and see if that helps. Also make sure that the ground spade is between two nuts when attached to the amp. If those things fail, these seem like good resources for help: http://sound.westhost.com/earthing.htm http://www.epanorama.net/documents/groundloop/
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Jan 15, 2015 17:10
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Chill Callahan posted:The manual for that integrated amp tell you to disconnect the ground wire, strangely enough, if you hear buzzing. ("If humming or other noise is generated when the ground wire is connected, disconnect it") yeah, I noticed this as well and tried it. Of course it makes the problem much worse. Chill Callahan posted:Also I would try to make sure that the amp is the only thing plugged into the outlet and see if that helps. Also make sure that the ground spade is between two nuts when attached to the amp. Will try this if I can. Not sure how my co-habitator will feel about a power plug running to the next nearest outlet Thanks for the other resources!
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Jan 15, 2015 17:41
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Does the humming change when you touch the tonearm? Some cartridges require you to isolate them from the tonearm. You might need to buy a set of plastic (nylon) washers and maybe even screws.
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Jan 15, 2015 17:53
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Adjusting the grounds fixed it. Seems like one of the spades was not installed correctly. Really glad this isn't a more difficult fix. Thanks for all the suggestions.
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Jan 15, 2015 21:34
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So I picked up six turntables last week and going through and fixing them all. I'm done with a Kenwood KD-5066 but the feet are all missing, has anyone had experience with sorbothane feet at all? Was thinking of getting something like that instead of dealing with tracking down the feet for it. http://www.amazon.com/Sorbothane-He...ords=sorbothane
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Jan 15, 2015 23:06
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If the feet screw on, I've used rubber chair leg protectors before as turntable feet. Cut off most of the part that the chair leg slides into and then stick a screw through the middle of the flat-ish part. They're like $4 at Lowe's.
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Jan 16, 2015 17:20
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I just volunteered to attempt to restore two pairs of Electro Voice Interface A speakers: They're clearly in bad shape, all the surrounds have completely rotted out and gravity seems to have taken its toll on the cones for the passive radiators. I've fixed up speakers before, but they were never in this bad of shape. All the guts seem to be in good condition, and from what I've researched these guys are pretty monstrous when in working condition. Each pair comes with its own EQ, I guess to correct for the huge PR and weird back-firing tweeter. I found some reasonably priced re-foam kits on eBay, but I feel these ones in particular need some extra TLC. The owner wants to restore them for his dad, and is paying for all of the parts and labor (in the form of cash and one of the pairs of fixed up speakers) so it's not a big deal if things get a little pricey. I'm just looking for advice on how to do the job the right way...
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Jan 17, 2015 06:45
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I've been looking to dip my toes into the world of vinyl... Looking at getting a turntable that I could in the short term just hook up to my home theater system. Would something like the AT-LP60 (or the USB equivalent) sound awful and/or chew up records? I was also maybe considering a Pro-Ject Elemental but not sure if it'd be overkill without a proper stereo amp/speakers.
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Jan 20, 2015 01:56
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micpp posted:I've been looking to dip my toes into the world of vinyl... Looking at getting a turntable that I could in the short term just hook up to my home theater system. Would something like the AT-LP60 (or the USB equivalent) sound awful and/or chew up records? I was also maybe considering a Pro-Ject Elemental but not sure if it'd be overkill without a proper stereo amp/speakers. One of those is fine.
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Jan 20, 2015 02:23
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Don't know about the Pro Ject, and the LP60 is generally recommended against since I think you're stuck with the cartridge it comes with, so likely if you want to change anything about the table you'd be starting over.
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Jan 20, 2015 05:08
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micpp posted:I've been looking to dip my toes into the world of vinyl... Looking at getting a turntable that I could in the short term just hook up to my home theater system. Would something like the AT-LP60 (or the USB equivalent) sound awful and/or chew up records? I was also maybe considering a Pro-Ject Elemental but not sure if it'd be overkill without a proper stereo amp/speakers. Not the LP60.
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Jan 20, 2015 05:16
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I haven't seen a shred of evidence that cheapo plastic turntables will gently caress up your records, other than testimonials from audiophiles who spend $900 on things like platter clamps (who would never buy those turntables to begin with), and the countless others who blindly parrot their advice. I've used a fixed weight fixed cartridge turntable for several years before upgrading and my records still sound perfect. In other words: don't worry about it. Legitimate reasons to skip the LP-60 include not being able to upgrade the cartridge and generally poor specs. Also since the counterweight and anti-skate settings are fixed, if you get a warped record or an off-center pressing, you won't be able to make corrections if the record skips. I wrote a big turntable comparison chart a while ago, which compares the specs of about 50 different models - http://iamthejeff.com/post/13/turntable-comparison-chart Keep in mind that even a cheap plastic turntable from the 80s will beat the poo poo out of a modern cheap plastic turntable (like the LP-60 and others, from Sony for example) in a comparison of specs. BANME.sh fucked around with this message at 07:24 on Jan 20, 2015 |
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Jan 20, 2015 06:44
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BANME.sh posted:Lots of helpful words Thanks for the advice, I'm glad to hear that I shouldn't worry about records being hosed up. I guess at this stage I'm thinking of it as something that I will probably replace further down the track if I get more into it. So not being able to put a better cartridge in isn't really a deal breaker at the moment.
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Jan 20, 2015 07:05
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Also a good thing to remember is that playing a dirty record on a $5000 turntable will damage both the record and the needle more than playing a clean one on a $90 turntable.
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Jan 20, 2015 07:23
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Merkin Muffley posted:I just volunteered to attempt to restore two pairs of Electro Voice Interface A speakers: They're no different, really than any other speakers to deal with. Clean the frames (scrape them carefully) and the edges of the cones (you can just roll the old foam off with your thumb, yes it makes a mess). For the passive radiators, if memory serves, those large weights unscrew. If you can't get them off (or don't care to try) it's no big deal. I would straighten the edge of that pulp cone with the help of some heat, and in my old days, I might have wet it a bit with alcohol or water and carefully pushed it back into shape. If the spider (lower suspension) isn't torn, just putting the new foam surround on should fix 'er up. A heat gun can soften that enough to bend it back into shape, as well. If you were in/near ATL, I'd be glad to help you out - that type of restoration is precisely what I use to do in another life.
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Jan 22, 2015 22:53
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I just replaced an audio Jack on this lil' cutie: Panasonic RF-8. It's about half the size of a pack of smokes. Sounds great now.
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Jan 24, 2015 00:59
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That thing is awesome. I've had a little green Panasonic transistor from the 60s since I was a kid. I beat the hell out of it and it still works fine. One battery lasts so long it's scary.
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Jan 24, 2015 06:23
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Isn't very vintage but I know someone here would know- My manager gave me his old NuMark PPD01 mixer without a power brick and with "some problems." The problem was, without powering it on, that I saw a blown cap near the power connector on the board and replaced it. The back of the unit says 9V - 1.5A - AC IN. I found an AC adapter that was 9v/1.5a on amazon and bought it, but when it got here it said 1.3a on it, not 1.5a, and nothing happens when I plug it in. Now, this thing could be fried, my manager said he didn't know if it worked, that's why its free. 1) I need an AC, not DC adapter right? 2) Where the hell can I get a 9v 1.5a ac adapter I called radio shack, crappy places like guitar center that might have power bricks, but nobody has AC bricks, not even googling. One place online I found "Planet DJ" carries something but I really want to buy it around here so I can make sure it works/fits.  1.3a is wrong for 1.5a, right? Not an Anthem fucked around with this message at 23:27 on Jan 24, 2015 |
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Jan 24, 2015 23:06
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Not an Anthem posted:Isn't very vintage but I know someone here would know- Yes you need 9 volts AC, the equipment probably uses two half wave rectifiers to produce a positive and negative voltage rail from the input so feeding it DC isn't going to work. Jameco has a transformer that should do the job. http://www.jameco.com/1/1/48656-aa091a5-9vac-wall-transformer-output-connector-2-1-x-5-5-mm-ac-ac.html
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Jan 24, 2015 23:28
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Not an Anthem posted:The back of the unit says 9V - 1.5A - AC IN. I found an AC adapter that was 9v/1.5a on amazon and bought it, but when it got here it said 1.3a on it, not 1.5a, and nothing happens when I plug it in. It does sound like you need an AC adapter, so you've got the right thing. It should be able to power up on that supply, 200mA difference in maximum load isn't that much in the grand scheme of things. Plus, there's usually a bit of safety margin, both in what the device will actually use, and what the power supply will actually supply. For instance, I've been running a gigabit switch off of a 500mA supply for years without problems, even though it says on the switch that it needs 1A. I don't think your power supply is the problem.
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Jan 24, 2015 23:30
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Aw boo. Other than visible blown capacitors is stuff I can check?
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Jan 25, 2015 00:24
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A stuck relay is another problem that can definitely happen. If the power relay never switches, nothing gets power. Do you have a multimeter? I'd start measuring DC voltage across stuff like fuses, see if everything is actually getting power. Also, remember to check that the fuses aren't blown  Have you gone over and triple-checked the caps? The bulging can be subtle, sometimes they even fail without bulging or bursting at all. Any caps near the power supply side of things should be checked very thoroughly, as they're usually the ones to blow.
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Jan 25, 2015 00:29
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BigFactory posted:That's cool, but I think I hate rosewood. It's gaudy. thats zebrawood
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Jan 25, 2015 00:51
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KozmoNaut posted:A stuck relay is another problem that can definitely happen. If the power relay never switches, nothing gets power. And just for yucks, use the multimeter to measure the output of that power supply. They can vary wildly from what they say on the label.
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Jan 25, 2015 00:51
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I have a 75wpc Kenwood KA-8006, and used to drive a fairly hefty pair of Sansui 3-ways. The cat tore up the cones pretty badly and it's perfect excuse to replace them. They had these goofy crossover knobs and had distortion in the high frequencies. Will the pioneer sb22s be too puny? Mightaswell fucked around with this message at 06:14 on Jan 29, 2015 |
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Jan 29, 2015 06:02
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