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mafoose posted:NA-T cars usually put down more power than their none turbo counterparts at equal boost levels (if tuned correctly). Yeah if you're going to build the engine right, I can see the appeal. But not if you're just gonna slap some ebay poo poo on there and not even tune the motor.
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Jan 17, 2015 09:51
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Raluek posted:Yeah if you're going to build the engine right, I can see the appeal. But not if you're just gonna slap some ebay poo poo on there and not even tune the motor. Who are we kidding, if sperg had a factory turbo car we'd still be at the same stage. At least we can take a little bit of solace that he didn't get his lazy hands on a factory turbo model and let it die by apathy. Sperg, what have you done exactly on the car since the inception of this thread? Oil change at least, maybe?
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Jan 17, 2015 16:15
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Bajaha posted:Who are we kidding, if sperg had a factory turbo car we'd still be at the same stage. At least we can take a little bit of solace that he didn't get his lazy hands on a factory turbo model and let it die by apathy. I think he put gas in it, once, and I'm not even sure about that.
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Jan 17, 2015 16:37
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CHITTYBAR posted:Ignorant. Not all Z31's came factory turbo. His car clearly came NA and was backyarded to turbo, there is a big difference. Look at this scrub. At least Sperg admits it when he doesn't know.
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Jan 17, 2015 21:42
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I knew this would be a trainwreck when he said he was planning on changing the electric windows to manual because electric was unnecessary or whatever. Let's not mention that manual Windows were only available in base model Canadian cars, haha. Good luck sourcing those Maybe it's his plan to keep the battery from draining instead of changing the battery cables
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Jan 18, 2015 01:28
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Im converting my Miata to manual windows for a few reasons, one of them being the power window switches are made out of dog poo poo.
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Jan 18, 2015 03:05
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leica posted:Im converting my Miata to manual windows for a few reasons, one of them being the power window switches are made out of dog poo poo.
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Jan 18, 2015 04:02
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CHITTYBAR posted:
Thats becsuse you were that guy for the rest of your unit.  battery on concrete, i ask you.
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Jan 18, 2015 16:04
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DoubleT2172 posted:I knew this would be a trainwreck when he said he was planning on changing the electric windows to manual because electric was unnecessary or whatever. Let's not mention that manual Windows were only available in base model Canadian cars, haha. Good luck sourcing those I have seen my fair share of Z31s (I'm Canadian), but never have seen one that did not have power windows. I do know they were theoretically available. I prefer power windows to non power windows in a street car though.
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Jan 18, 2015 20:41
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Terrible Robot posted:I think he put gas in it, once, and I'm not even sure about that. He was learning stick in it so at SOME POINT it had fuel.... I really want you to come back sperglord. I almost removed my fathers 280z from existence after he died learning how to turn wrench when i was 16. I want you to do better like i learned how.
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Jan 18, 2015 23:58
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Lightbulb Out posted:Reading this thread makes me feel better about myself and my life decisions. I mean, I willingly buy British cars and still have made less terrible choices than the op. That's pretty bad.
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Jan 19, 2015 18:05
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Bajaha posted:Who are we kidding, if sperg had a factory turbo car we'd still be at the same stage. At least we can take a little bit of solace that he didn't get his lazy hands on a factory turbo model and let it die by apathy. Flushed coolant, changed the battery out, and as of today, replaced the faulty negative battery terminal/cable. Pictures of work coming shortly, including one of my neighbor's 1979 Oldsmobile that he's working on. Bad news is, PO fuckery means I may need a special snowflake Alternator/Water Pump belt. Fun! Saw a real neat 280z today as well. Edit: Almost forgot, definite good news: ECU is from a VG30DET. So we have a Turbo ECU. fishception fucked around with this message at 23:25 on Jan 19, 2015 |
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Jan 19, 2015 23:15
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Oh man, let me guess. The PO swapped the harmonic balancer for a turbo one with the serpentine/micro-v style waterpump and regular v-belt steering pump then threw a two regular v-belts on and called it good? Glad to hear you are jumping into this thing, good luck. ^^edit: Hooray, that takes a whole list of to do items off the list. Remember to check the injectors as well though, don't just assume. NA injectors on a turbo ecu will still run lean. Bibendum fucked around with this message at 23:30 on Jan 19, 2015 |
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Jan 19, 2015 23:28
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Bibendum posted:Oh man, let me guess. The PO swapped the harmonic balancer for a turbo one with the serpentine/micro-v style waterpump and regular v-belt steering pump then threw a two regular v-belts on and called it good? HOW DID YOU GUESS!
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Jan 19, 2015 23:41
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Kudos to you for making some actual progress, goons can be abrasive as hell but we mean well. Will the special belt work with your normal accessory pulleys, or will you have to swap the balancer back to the one it came with?
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Jan 19, 2015 23:47
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Fucknag posted:Kudos to you for making some actual progress, goons can be abrasive as hell but we mean well. The special belt will work with the pulleys. The PO put on weird pulleys and that was the main problem with it. Again, thanks a ton to Safety Dance to helping me out and giving some good advice and making sure I didn't gently caress it up horribly. Also for helping me move the drat thing, since the battery (or the lovely charger I am using) is shot.
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Jan 19, 2015 23:49
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Glad you're making some progress on the car. POs are (to a man) lying garbage animals.
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Jan 19, 2015 23:50
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I got some pictures of the ECU. Looks like it's off of an '84:  That red AMERICAN BASS cable looks like it's from a sound system the PO ripped out. There's a bunch of candy-rear end wiring hooked up to a couple relays floating around in the neighborhood of the battery. I want to figure out what they're for and tear them out if at all possible. Can I use a toner on automotive electronics? Here's a FREE SOCKET that came with the car. We left it deep in the headlight well because  . We lifted the car up. Not that we wound up doing anything under it, but it was still good experience for Sperg to know how to do it in the future.   New negative battery terminal.  Sperg said the multimeter was reading around 11 volts, so either his charger is poo poo or the battery is poo poo. The car didn't even begin to crank, so we towed it to the shop. It was only about a quarter mile, all on residential streets. Reminder to me: get a receiver hitch D-ring.  Then we returned the jack to Sperg's neighbor, who is a cool guy who loves old G-body Oldsmobiles.  He was telling us he got that one for free. They were going to tow it to the scrap yard, but he got the tow truck to take it to his house instead. Safety Dance fucked around with this message at 01:14 on Jan 20, 2015 |
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Jan 20, 2015 01:09
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Good progress there, guys. Did you take the battery somewhere to be tested, or is the shop gonna do the whole thing?
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Jan 20, 2015 01:55
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Good progress there, guys. Did you take the battery somewhere to be tested, or is the shop gonna do the whole thing? Shop is the one I took it to originally, so they are making drat sure it works the way it should. After all, their belt was the one that snapped in the first place.
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Jan 20, 2015 02:38
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Safety Dance posted:New negative battery terminal. Is there no cable going to the block? You need to have a cable going from the block to the battery. On the older Nissans, it went from one of the starter holes (that hold the starter to the block/bell housing) and then to the battery.
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Jan 20, 2015 03:01
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Glad to see you're still pajammin' sperg. Once this car is in running condition I think you owe safety dance the tread off your rear tires.
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Jan 20, 2015 03:30
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Those loving pants dude.
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Jan 20, 2015 03:42
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mafoose posted:Is there no cable going to the block? Says who? If the engine's bonded to the frame properly, it should ground just fine through the one wire.
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Jan 20, 2015 04:00
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Quite A Tool posted:Those loving pants dude. Where do you think sperg gets his fashion sense from?
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Jan 20, 2015 04:27
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pretty sure that's actually sperg
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Jan 20, 2015 04:28
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AMERICAN BASS Nice job dudes.
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Jan 20, 2015 04:35
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rscott posted:pretty sure that's actually sperg Yes indeed, that is actually me. I make a mockery of fashion.
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Jan 20, 2015 04:46
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Fucknag posted:Says who? If the engine's bonded to the frame properly, it should ground just fine through the one wire. But it isn't, because it is likely going through the motor mount as old Zs didn't have ground straps at the motor. Even Volvo OEM cables go to the starter bolt, AND have a ground strap from the firewall to the valve cover.
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Jan 20, 2015 05:36
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mafoose posted:Is there no cable going to the block? There is. It's hard to see in that picture, but the grungy non-electrical-taped cable to the right of the grounding lug is coming from the block, and is ring-terminal'd to the same grounding lug. e. I assume that's the case, anyhow. That wire goes down, through a thing on the subframe, and then over toward the engine. I was lazy and didn't trace it all the way; I thought it'd be be better to just replace the obviously hosed portion. That decision was on me. Safety Dance fucked around with this message at 06:15 on Jan 20, 2015 |
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Jan 20, 2015 06:09
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You have no idea how much joy it brings me, as an internet stranger, to finally see that negative lead replaced. I can sympathize with you on this one Sperg. AI has been harsh on you, but I know how it goes, spending the majority of your money on the kickin rad 80s car of your dreams, not having reliable employment, etc, it's very easy to feel like you're in too deep. I have (some) mechanical knowledge and my car is the literal exact opposite of a basket case like yours, but that does little to help that depressing feeling of being aware of everything wrong with the car and being too poor to buy expensive European parts feeling guilty while the list gradually gets bigger. The fact that I already know how to fix everything makes it even more soul-crushing. Luckily for AI I decided long ago not to make a thread because I foresaw the 24 pages of angry goons while I move along at snails pace with my thumb up my rear end. You seriously have your work cut out for you, and any sensible human being would sell this car the second it ran and never think about buying a Nissan again. You obviously love the car, and it will love you back with some (wrenching) therapy. One day she'll forget all about her abusive PO and you can ~ ride off into the sunset together ~ HEY VAPER fucked around with this message at 15:57 on Jan 20, 2015 |
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Jan 20, 2015 15:46
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Car is back, woo! Ran it over to AutoZone to grab some things that'll make parking it in the driveway while it's in neutral possible, and while I was there, also got them to test my alternator. They pulled up that the Alternator has a bad "Voltage Regulator". So, next project (after the fuel injectors and the spark plugs and checking those) is to save my cash up for a Nissan Titan alternator and slap that bad boy in there, because gently caress dealing with stock 80's parts when I can use something made within the century. Pulleys are not out of alignment, they are indeed definitely aligned. It's just PO fuckery. If the belt breaks again, may need to unfuck the pulley situation and put new pulleys on. fishception fucked around with this message at 22:18 on Jan 20, 2015 |
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Jan 20, 2015 22:12
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OK, is the previous owner fuckery this?:Bibendum posted:Oh man, let me guess. The PO swapped the harmonic balancer for a turbo one with the serpentine/micro-v style waterpump and regular v-belt steering pump then threw a two regular v-belts on and called it good? Sperglord Firecock posted:HOW DID YOU GUESS! Also, take the alternator to an auto-electric rewinder place. Those things were nuts simple I suspect you could get it redone for $50 and they'd probably have a pulley you could swap to match your balancer. I'd probably trust them more for testing it too than the pep boys flunkies.
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Jan 20, 2015 22:31
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slidebite posted:OK, is the previous owner fuckery this?: No no no, the belts that they put on (The PO and the shop itself) were completely the wrong ones for the pulleys. Now (he thinks) we have the right ones. Auto-Electric Rewinder place. I'll have to see if we have that around here. Edit: I read the original post and thought of it more as "Put the wrong belts on" instead of "specific pulley/belt combo". That's what was wrong, wrong belts for the job. fishception fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Jan 20, 2015 |
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Jan 20, 2015 22:34
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OK, so just to be crystal clear, the pulley on both the alternator and crank are the same style, right? By same style, I mean same kind of belt and same width.
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Jan 20, 2015 22:42
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slidebite posted:OK, so just to be crystal clear, the pulley on both the alternator and crank are the same style, right? Checked: Yes. They are the same.
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Jan 20, 2015 23:14
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Sperglord Firecock posted:They pulled up that the Alternator has a bad "Voltage Regulator". So, next project (after the fuel injectors and the spark plugs and checking those) is to save my cash up for a Nissan Titan alternator and slap that bad boy in there, because gently caress dealing with stock 80's parts when I can use something made within the century. Note that a bad voltage regulator is not especially good for an alternator long-term so you might as well go for the rebuild. Just look for an alternator or starter shop in town, it's the same thing as what slidebite just described except using more common terminology  edit: Did you test the battery too? Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 23:20 on Jan 20, 2015 |
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Jan 20, 2015 23:15
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Yeah, just fix the alternator spend your money elsewhere.
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Jan 20, 2015 23:18
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If it's externally regulated (probably isn't, since it's from the 80s) then I'd want to upgrade it. If you can get the Titan one from a junkyard, do that; it'll be cheaper than rebuilding the one you've got, and higher output. But if you're looking at buying new, and don't need the extra electrical capacity, and yours is already internally regulated, I wouldn't bother.
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Jan 20, 2015 23:21
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Unfortunately it appears the Z31 one is internally regulated, unlike the old Z-cars. Note that when you're having it rebuilt sometimes the shop will also rewind it to increase the capacity. But this probably costs more than just farting in a new voltage regulator and bearings.
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Jan 20, 2015 23:23
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