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Astonishing Wang posted:I got the 8.8 rear axle in and finished up the brake lines this weekend. I drove it to work today and got on the freeway for the first time with no issues. I still need to bring the pinion angle a little lower to line it up perfectly, and I still need to install the e-brake cables. Other than that, I'm stoked to have my baby back. Nice work! Was there any issues with things like speed/ABS sensors (do TJs have those?) in that axle? What were some of the harder things about an axle project? I also didn't see how you got the mounts setup. Did you get it from ECGS? I was looking at the new dana/spicer JK d60s all last week and lamenting that I wasn't wealthy enough to drop coin for the axle + new (beadlock/8x6.5")wheels + driveshaft at a moments notice. I'm now set on fitting up a 14 bolt rear for myself as a project which should be a lot cheaper. It looks fun as you can shave a few inches off the bottom, Artec does JK mount kits/trusses, and arb has a locker for it (plus the ring and pinion is bigger than a d60, especially the pinion). tuna fucked around with this message at 06:33 on Jan 17, 2015 |
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Jan 17, 2015 06:30
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Jan 17, 2015 16:55
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De- -ed the Jeep today: I finally tracked down the last of my slooooow coolant leak - the hose from the overflow was seeping ever so slightly so I threw a clamp on it. However, I found this:  I've never come across a collapsed hose like this before, especially so on the upper. No overheating problems or anything. Thoughts on where I should check first? Oh, and a conversation with the wife: "How much does a lift cost? You should do it." 
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Jan 17, 2015 23:06
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Is there any good reason to not lock the fork in the engaged position on a vacuum controlled front axle? I don't feel like screwing with the vac lines anymore and want my 4wd back. Those cable controlled posi lock things look neat but they're expensive.
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Jan 18, 2015 07:36
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Great Beer posted:Is there any good reason to not lock the fork in the engaged position on a vacuum controlled front axle? I don't feel like screwing with the vac lines anymore and want my 4wd back. Those cable controlled posi lock things look neat but they're expensive. To my knowledge, the purpose of the vac disconnect is to reduce wear on the front axle when in 2H and to reduce the resistance of turning the front driveshaft and thus giving a slight boost in MPGs. because there are no manually locking hubs, having a disconnect effectively allows the front end to free wheel in 2H. We locked mine in place with a stack of washers and then later on, Kastein helped me purchase and install a non-disconnect D30 axle shaft.  Eastwood frame treatment and Chassis Saver.  Axle Parts! I guess I messed up and only ordered 1 ubolt somehow.  This was such a pain in the rear end to get inside for some reason. I don't even want to think about dragging my D30 in now. Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 00:58 on Jan 19, 2015 |
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Jan 18, 2015 15:44
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So the rough country lift I put on my Jeep when I first got it is pretty much done. The shocks are pretty much just sitting there doing nothing, I bounce over everything. So, found a killer deal on some brand new Bilstein 5100s on amazon and by friday I should be back in business! Next on the list will be a set of 3" Evo Plush Ride coils, hopefully next month. We have a big trip planned for this october up to Tennessee and surrounding area for some wheeling so I need to get all this done before then.
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Jan 20, 2015 00:44
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I'll post a photo of my Bilstein 5100 ripped in half so you can see what they look like on the inside  What killer deal did you find? I need a replacement for the rear and the best I'm finding is $71 shipped for one shock.
Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 17:35 on Jan 20, 2015 |
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Jan 20, 2015 17:33
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tuna posted:Nice work! Was there any issues with things like speed/ABS sensors (do TJs have those?) in that axle? What were some of the harder things about an axle project? I also didn't see how you got the mounts setup. Did you get it from ECGS? I got the axle from a guy in my club, it had been mostly stripped already which saved me some work, only downside is that it's drum and not disk brakes. The TJ doesn't have any speed sensors on the axle, but the explorer had one. I just left the ford sensor in place rather than taking it out and messing with closing the hole. The hardest thing about the project was making the brake lines work. It's easy now that I know how it all works but it took some figuring out to make sure I had the right fittings and no leaks. The bracket set up was really easy with the artec product. The truss kit comes with cutouts for a lot of the mounts so they go exactly where they need to be. The other brackets are just spaced out based on other parts, and set to a specific angle with the angle finder. The only thing I wish I'd done differently now is rotate the shock mounts even further back so there's more clearance for the can, but that would've made it closer to hitting against the muffler. My driveshaft length was a concern with changing axles, and adding on a flange adapter, but it has a 7" slip section and it's only showing about 2-3" at ride height so I think it's fine. I still need to run the e-brake cables  I'll upload some photos of the brackets soon if you want to see them.
Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 17:44 on Jan 20, 2015 |
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Jan 20, 2015 17:42
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Astonishing Wang posted:I'll post a photo of my Bilstein 5100 ripped in half so you can see what they look like on the inside I got the fronts for $40/piece from a seller on amazon that had 2 left and the rears for the same price you found on amazon. It was the fronts for $40/piece that really sealed the deal in me getting all of them.
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Jan 20, 2015 18:40
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Any recommendations for pads and rotors for an XJ? Or does it matter much? Getting this thing ready to tow a 5 by 8 uhaul 1400 miles and just making sure I cover all my bases.
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Jan 21, 2015 03:06
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I went with NAPA brand rotors and pads (ceramic pads) and am really happy with them about 20k miles later. No noise, low dust, and it stops just fine.
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Jan 21, 2015 03:46
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Black Magic pads and Centric rotors get reviewed very positively for a low cost upgrade.
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Jan 21, 2015 05:09
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Who knows about AMC 20s? I'm trying to figure out my gear ratio but the code definitions I'm seeing on various websites are all conflicting. I have a narrow track with code "B". Everyone and their mother points to this site http://www.jeeptech.com/axle/amc20.html for decoding, but my narrow track B isn't on there. From what I can tell from this mess of a link, http://www.amcgremlin.com/AMCml-archive/msg22668.html, I *think* I have a 3.15 gear ratio, but have no idea if it's open or trac-lok. The ratio is more important though since I'm ordering the PCM and wiring harness as soon as I get this straightened out.
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Jan 21, 2015 05:40
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Astonishing Wang posted:I got the axle from a guy in my club, it had been mostly stripped already which saved me some work, only downside is that it's drum and not disk brakes. The TJ doesn't have any speed sensors on the axle, but the explorer had one. I just left the ford sensor in place rather than taking it out and messing with closing the hole. The hardest thing about the project was making the brake lines work. It's easy now that I know how it all works but it took some figuring out to make sure I had the right fittings and no leaks. The bracket set up was really easy with the artec product. The truss kit comes with cutouts for a lot of the mounts so they go exactly where they need to be. The other brackets are just spaced out based on other parts, and set to a specific angle with the angle finder. The only thing I wish I'd done differently now is rotate the shock mounts even further back so there's more clearance for the can, but that would've made it closer to hitting against the muffler. Oh cool you used the Artec truss. I'll probably do the same route for the 14 bolt, since it's much easier to index. I don't think I need to see the brackets, I have an Artec truss on my front D44 and know the quality of their kits are great. There are also adapters that bolt onto the axle flange for discs, so it should be an easy swap if you intend to get rid of the drums in the future.
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Jan 21, 2015 06:04
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Quite A Tool posted:Any recommendations for pads and rotors for an XJ? Or does it matter much? Getting this thing ready to tow a 5 by 8 uhaul 1400 miles and just making sure I cover all my bases. I'm liking my Akebono pads and (cheapest rotors on Amazon). For what its worth, my wife works the commercial counter at an auto parts store and says Akebono is overwhelmingly preferred by mechanics who give a poo poo.
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Jan 21, 2015 06:56
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BoostCreep posted:Who knows about AMC 20s? I'm trying to figure out my gear ratio but the code definitions I'm seeing on various websites are all conflicting. Good solid LSD unit: jack up both rears, mark one sidewall at vertical, mark driveshaft, spin driveshaft while counting turns until wheel turns one full revolution. Number of driveshaft turns = ratio Loose LSD or open diff: jack up only one rear, mark sidewall at vertical, mark driveshaft, spin driveshaft while counting turns until wheel turns two full revolutions. Number of driveshaft turns = ratio I don't trust tags or stamps anymore unless they're on the ring gear, at which point I might as well just be counting ring/pinion teeth and dividing.
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Jan 21, 2015 16:02
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kastein posted:Good solid LSD unit: jack up both rears, mark one sidewall at vertical, mark driveshaft, spin driveshaft while counting turns until wheel turns one full revolution. Number of driveshaft turns = ratio The axle shafts on the AMC 20 that I saw were like toothpicks - any worries there?
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Jan 21, 2015 16:36
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kastein posted:
 Yup- The only real way to tell is by hand.
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Jan 21, 2015 17:32
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And lo, Judas did ask: Why did you not make a diesel option? And god did smite him.
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Jan 21, 2015 17:36
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Kastein and I have probably talked about putting a different head on a 4.0 block and deisel conversions at some point or other.
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Jan 21, 2015 17:56
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Slow is Fast posted:Kastein and I have probably talked about putting a different head on a 4.0 block and deisel conversions at some point or other. I did a couple XJ to diesel conversions. Really REALLY want to get some metalworking tools and mod an XJ head to make a diesel 4.0.
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Jan 21, 2015 18:10
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The conclusion I came to is that it would require a custom head ($$$$$$$) custom injection pump drive gearing ($$$$$) and would probably turn the pistons into shrapnel or crush the rods/rod bearings if they weren't redesigned from scratch for high compression diesel operation.
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Jan 21, 2015 18:44
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kastein posted:The conclusion I came to is that it would require a custom head ($$$$$$$) custom injection pump drive gearing ($$$$$) and would probably turn the pistons into shrapnel or crush the rods/rod bearings if they weren't redesigned from scratch for high compression diesel operation. I mean, obviously. But drat, I can dream...
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Jan 21, 2015 18:47
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What's the deal with the 2.1 Renault diesel? Are they built with unobtanium? Are they awful? Did someone buy them all and hide them in a warehouse somewhere in Nevada?
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Jan 21, 2015 19:28
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Sandbagger SA posted:What's the deal with the 2.1 Renault diesel? Are they built with unobtanium? Are they awful? Did someone buy them all and hide them in a warehouse somewhere in Nevada? Yes.  Only 500 made it to the US, most of them trashed because of the issues with the Renault parts. I found one.   After a headgasket, and a timing belt directly from France and a few replace rockers, I got it running. Its pretty gutless, and the IDI head does not really allow you to do injector mods to increase fueling. CommieGIR fucked around with this message at 19:35 on Jan 21, 2015 |
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Jan 21, 2015 19:32
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Pretty gutless, repair/maintenance parts are basically nonexistent now, they were rare even the year they were sold because no one wanted them, etc. Same goes for the 2.5 VM Motori, except those were pretty common abroad.
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Jan 21, 2015 19:32
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Can I play Jeep legos with a 2000 XJ and a 99 Dodge Ram 1500? Buddy of mine is sending his Ram to the junkyard and I figure there has to be something I can use on it.
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Jan 22, 2015 07:11
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BoostCreep: How are you liking the lift so far? Considering going with the Kolak 2" lift (IRO springs, new insulators, and Bilstein 5100s).
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Jan 22, 2015 07:14
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IOwnCalculus posted:BoostCreep: How are you liking the lift so far? Considering going with the Kolak 2" lift (IRO springs, new insulators, and Bilstein 5100s). That's the exact lift I got. Can't complain, but it may lean a bit without a larger sway bar.
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Jan 22, 2015 08:42
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Welp, I appear to have tank assed my driver's seat. Luckily it's supposed to be 50 in Friday, time to pull it up and see if I can patch it or if it needs welding.
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Jan 22, 2015 13:32
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gileadexile posted:That's the exact lift I got. Can't complain, but it may lean a bit without a larger sway bar. I'm not hugely concerned about having to slow down a bit on the road; I already drive it like an old man, it's no corner carver. Even the CR-V feels light on its feet in comparison, though a good bit slower in a straight line... How long have you had your lift?
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Jan 22, 2015 14:36
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Hi. I have a Jeep. Do I get a thread membership badge or is it just the pile of garbage in my backyard?
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Jan 22, 2015 18:05
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Adiabatic posted:Do I get a thread membership badge or is it just the pile of garbage in my backyard? Yes.
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Jan 22, 2015 18:13
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Don't worry, others will follow it home and they'll all mark their territory in the driveway.
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Jan 22, 2015 18:56
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Good. It'll keep the Landys from infesting the garage.
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Jan 22, 2015 18:58
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Adiabatic posted:Good. It'll keep the Landys from infesting the garage. You'd hoon a series truck and you know it.
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Jan 22, 2015 18:59
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Adiabatic posted:Good. It'll keep the Landys from infesting the garage. Every time another Jeep approaches my driveway, it sees the piss stains from the TDI and gets wary.
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Jan 22, 2015 19:00
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cursedshitbox posted:You'd hoon a series truck and you know it. I will shamefully admit that I hope to one day trade up from my XJ to a Land Rover  edit: An older Range Rover or Disco but probably not a Series truck - they're not practical as a DD for me. I'm a terrible person. FreelanceSocialist fucked around with this message at 19:38 on Jan 22, 2015 |
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Jan 22, 2015 19:28
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FreelanceSocialist posted:I will shamefully admit that I hope to one day trade up from my XJ to a Land Rover http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/4830948236.html A++ would do
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Jan 22, 2015 19:35
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IOwnCalculus posted:BoostCreep: How are you liking the lift so far? Considering going with the Kolak 2" lift (IRO springs, new insulators, and Bilstein 5100s). I love it. It's doing great. I have the 3" IRO springs and 5100s. Rides just a tad stiffer than stock soccer mom GC shocks which I think is perfect. I'd do a 3" though over the 2. My 3" has less clearance than my XJ with 3 inches of lift, so 2" might not be high enough. I honestly think 4" is the ideal lift for the WJ to fit 32's without trimming metal, but that requires new control arms and a lot more money, so 3" is a good compromise. You also definitely want IRO's adjustable track bar too.
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Jan 23, 2015 00:05
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