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j3rkstore posted:
I read that as dildo and had to ask myself a lot of questions.
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Jan 21, 2015 22:38
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I have gotten some scoresheets back recently with "phenols" listed on them. I brew with bottled water, have good sanitation and I ferment in a temp controlled keezer which I peg at the low end of the yeast's preferred range. What else can I do to eliminate these? I fear I might be one of those people who genetically can't taste phenols very well because I really never taste them in my own brews, or in other beers (except maybe a couple Belgian Pales)
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Jan 22, 2015 00:51
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DontAskKant posted:I had always seen gelatin in combination with cold crashing. Anything different if not cold crashing or same protocol? The beer has to be cold for the gelatin to actually work. Syrinxx posted:phenols Bobsledboy fucked around with this message at 01:26 on Jan 22, 2015 |
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Jan 22, 2015 01:23
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j3rkstore posted:Thank you BLARGHLE for the hand-delivered SS gift, that's quite a trip so I hope you had some other reason to drive that far! It was my day off, and since I'm still waiting on some kegging supplies, I had nothing better to do. Plus, gas is cheap, our new car gets great mileage, and it's been a while since I've taken a road trip. Oh, also, there was a Zaxby's near your place, and I haven't even seen a Zaxby's, much less eaten at one, since 2007, so that was worth the trip by itself.
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Jan 22, 2015 01:40
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Bobsledboy posted:The beer has to be cold for the gelatin to actually work.
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Jan 22, 2015 04:24
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Economic Sinkhole posted:Here's the recipe Tyvm  I've been looking for a porter recipe to try out. I've got 1/2 a bag of pearl to use up so good to use it quick
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Jan 22, 2015 04:34
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Syrinxx posted:Hmm... I have the sensor near, but not touching, the fermenter. Wouldn't it overshoot in each direction if it was measuring the liquid and not the air temp? Nah the air temp can change wildly inside the fridge without the beer changing much at all. This picture from the Brewpi site shows what I'm talking about pretty well: http://www.brewpi.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/brewpi-web-interface-overview.png You can see how much the fridge temperature varies and how cold it gets at different stages in the fermentation to maintain a constant temp of 19C.
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Jan 22, 2015 08:23
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ChiTownEddie posted:Hey guys, I haven't brewed in about 2 months...partly because busy with holidays, weddings, moving, etc...but also because I haven't been feeling it. I think I am stuck in my own habits of what I brew. Mostly saisons, IPAs, and my 1 Mild recipe. Don't get me wrong, I love my beers, but I think I need a change of pace. Go through my post history in here, I believe there's two differing smoked imperial stout recipes, try that but adjust to your system/soak oak chips in bourbon for a couple weeks before it ferments and throw them in the fermenter (don't chill) and let it crash to ferm temps naturally. Best thing I've done is that so far. Also I think I've posted a good rye saison, maybe a Belgian ale or two? Alternatively go yeast shopping, find what's cheap and brew around that. I picked up 15 vials of yeast bay and white labs from Vyrkuza's store recently and I've basically been picking out vials at random and that's what I brew.
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Jan 22, 2015 09:10
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First time doing a larger batch, didn't have enough room to store all the bottles upright. Put the last dozen on a shelf, sideways, about two weeks ago. Last night I found this.  I don't see the same thing on the bottom of the bottles that were stored upright. The sideways bottles were the last ones filled, so I'm thinking it is a bit of the yeast cake that got transferred to the clean container, sank back down while I was cleaning up, preparing bottles, etc. and was then transferred into the last bottles when I was filling them. I put the bottles upright and it disappeared within a few hours. Is it harmful? Should I throw out the whole batch or just the sideways bottles?
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Jan 22, 2015 13:10
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BioTech posted:First time doing a larger batch, didn't have enough room to store all the bottles upright. Put the last dozen on a shelf, sideways, about two weeks ago. It's fine. Just be careful to decant that bottle off the yeast when serving.
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Jan 22, 2015 13:16
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Syrinxx posted:I have gotten some scoresheets back recently with "phenols" listed on them. I brew with bottled water, have good sanitation and I ferment in a temp controlled keezer which I peg at the low end of the yeast's preferred range. What else can I do to eliminate these? I fear I might be one of those people who genetically can't taste phenols very well because I really never taste them in my own brews, or in other beers (except maybe a couple Belgian Pales) I have had beers with phenolic flavors that aged out. It just took a long time and a fair bit of cold conditioning. Oddly, they were beers fermented with fairly clean yeast at low temps. Also had it due to chlorine but you seem to have that under wraps. If you can't taste them, I would imagine it would be hard to pin down the problem...
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Jan 22, 2015 13:30
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BioTech posted:First time doing a larger batch, didn't have enough room to store all the bottles upright. Put the last dozen on a shelf, sideways, about two weeks ago. No it's just yeast sediment from bottle conditioning. You'll see it on the bottom of your bottles that were up right. If you move those to an upright position, it should eventually drop to the bottom, but might not. Be careful opening those too, I've found that sediment on the side bottles have a higher chance of gushing (not from an infection but from nucleation points and CO2 etc).
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Jan 22, 2015 14:28
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Marshmallow Blue posted:No it's just yeast sediment from bottle conditioning. You'll see it on the bottom of your bottles that were up right. If you move those to an upright position, it should eventually drop to the bottom, but might not. Be careful opening those too, I've found that sediment on the side bottles have a higher chance of gushing (not from an infection but from nucleation points and CO2 etc). cryme posted:It's fine. Just be careful to decant that bottle off the yeast when serving. Thanks, guys. They all dropped to the bottom within a few hours, but I couldn't detect any on the upright bottles so that's why I was doubting. Maybe the bottom of the glass is too thick for me to see anything. My other brews were crystal clear, so this had me a bit worried.
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Jan 22, 2015 15:01
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Does anyone have any tips to "doubling" a recipe? I basically multiplied all the grains and hops by a factor of 1.5 to give me an OG of 1.070 while maintaining the bitterness ratio. Planning on using a starter.
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Jan 22, 2015 15:17
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ZIGfried posted:Does anyone have any tips to "doubling" a recipe? I basically multiplied all the grains and hops by a factor of 1.5 to give me an OG of 1.070 while maintaining the bitterness ratio. Planning on using a starter. What kind of beer is it? It might be a better idea to only increase the base malt and leave all the specialty malts the same. You'll get a significant increase in malt character just by adding base malt so it could come out overpowering if you increase everything else too.
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Jan 22, 2015 15:41
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Is 1oz of high AA hops (14-16) at 60 minutes enough Base bitterness for an IPA that the rest can be added under 5 minutes?
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Jan 22, 2015 15:51
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Depends on gravity, but yes. In theory you can add whatever whenever (within reason), as long as you're getting IBUs. I've done IPAs with only <10min additions, pales with whirlpool only, DIPAs at <25min, etc. IME it makes fruity beer.
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Jan 22, 2015 16:02
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ChickenArise posted:Depends on gravity, but yes. In theory you can add whatever whenever (within reason), as long as you're getting IBUs. I've done IPAs with only <10min additions, pales with whirlpool only, DIPAs at <25min, etc. IME it makes fruity beer. OK, I don't make a ton of hoppy beers so I guess I have to figure out how many IBUs I like in my typical FG range (1.010-1.016)
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Jan 22, 2015 16:08
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internet celebrity posted:What kind of beer is it? It might be a better idea to only increase the base malt and leave all the specialty malts the same. You'll get a significant increase in malt character just by adding base malt so it could come out overpowering if you increase everything else too. An Irish Red. Original grain bill is 85.7% 2 row. The remaining grain bill is made up of 4 specialty malts. I had considered doing just the base malt to keep the beer the same color but was worried I'd lose the malty flavor that I love in Irish reds. I'll follow your advise. I think I'd rather be on the subtle Irish red flavor side as opposed to overpowering. Thanks. I'm on point upping the hops to keep the bitterness ratio constant right? Edit: I've also lowered mash temp from 152 to 150 in order to get a predicted FG from beersmith of 1.014. This is still 2 units higher than the original recipe but I'm hoping the extra residual sweetness will work with the higher abv. I could be way off here but that's why I'm posting :P ZIGfried fucked around with this message at 16:47 on Jan 22, 2015 |
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Jan 22, 2015 16:41
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Marshmallow Blue posted:OK, I don't make a ton of hoppy beers so I guess I have to figure out how many IBUs I like in my typical FG range (1.010-1.016) The caveat is that you will probably have less bitterness than your on-paper IBUs indicate. For my currently pouring late-addition IPA, for example, I think my numbers were: OG 1.058, FG 1.011, IBUs ~70 by my fudged beersmith calculations: 1oz 12.25% AA @ 20min 1oz 8.5% AA @ 15min 1oz 13% AA @15min .5oz 12% AA @15min In reality I added the 20min at about 7min, and the rest at 2min, then I let it stand after flameout for 15min, and my kettle roughly maintains temperature during that time. Perceived bitterness is on the low end of commercial IPAs.
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Jan 22, 2015 17:06
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ZIGfried posted:An Irish Red. I'd be concerned about hop utilization if you just straight multiplied everything by 1.5. Granted, an Irish Red is not a hoppy style to begin with, but as gravity goes up, hop utilization goes down, and the beer can easily get out of balance and end up cloying. I'd suggest upping the bittering charge to 2x or even 2.5x the original low-gravity amount rather than just the 1.5x to keep the beer in balance.
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Jan 22, 2015 17:07
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Bobsledboy posted:Nah the air temp can change wildly inside the fridge without the beer changing much at all. This picture from the Brewpi site shows what I'm talking about pretty well: http://www.brewpi.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/brewpi-web-interface-overview.png I wonder if he has the probe insulated? I've seen people connect the probe with a piece of magic eraser/insulation around it.
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Jan 22, 2015 17:08
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I've just stuck the probe under the fermenter, in the punt space. That seems to work pretty well.
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Jan 22, 2015 17:10
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Jo3sh posted:I've just stuck the probe under the fermenter, in the punt space. That seems to work pretty well. Yeah, that's probably fine too, since there won't be any significant air flow under it. I'd still think that taping it to it is better because it's in direct contact, but that's probably pretty close. People just forget that A. Liquid holds temperature much more stably than gas and that B. Fermentation itself generates heat. You could have the air in your fermenter at 70 degrees, but the beer is at 75 degrees because of the exothermic reactions in the beer. So if you've just had your probe inside the chamber your beer is probably doing the major stages of fermentation several degrees higher than you think it is which could cause that phenol problem.
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Jan 22, 2015 18:29
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Yakadan: I've been slacking on posting, but your SS package arrived the other day. Holy hell, I need your ESB recipe, it's phenomenal! I had a brown last night and it was pretty dang good despite my not being a fan of the style. My wife loved hers, though. We still have yet to try the pumpkin ales, but I'll let you know.
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Jan 22, 2015 20:45
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Thinking of doing this with an American Bock Lager (in the style of Shiner Bock) I'm making this weekend: http://brulosophy.com/methods/lager-method/ Given that it comes from this guy and it's basically an opinion page, anyone else want to chime in on this method or their method of doing lagers and such. I'm doing a 90 minute boil fwiw.
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Jan 24, 2015 02:34
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Paladine_PSoT posted:Yakadan: I've been slacking on posting, but your SS package arrived the other day. Glad you liked it! It's an extract recipe, but the recipe's as follows: 3.3 lbs. light LME 3 lbs. light DME 1 lb. Munich 10L 1 lb. Carapils (this is a bit high. Like I said in my letter, I'll be cutting it down going forward) I steeped the Munich and Carapils for 30 minutes at around 155˚F. Extracts were late boil additions added with around 20 minutes to go. Also, Whirlfloc. 1 oz. Mosaic @ 60 mins. 1 oz. Mosaic @ 10 mins. 2 oz. Mosaic dryhopped @ 5 days Wyeast 1968 London ESB. I used a starter. OG 1.054 FG 1.016 5% abv. ~50 IBU ~5 SRM If you're all grain, I'd go with 80% pale malt, 15% Munich 10L, and 5% Carapils as opposed to my current 75/12/12 split.
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Jan 24, 2015 02:48
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Moasic ESB? Awesome. I should try something similar to that recipe once I move. Also thank you to everyone that responded with ways to get out of a brewing funk! You guys rule.
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Jan 24, 2015 05:56
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ChiTownEddie posted:Moasic ESB? Awesome. Any time mate I got in a similar rut where I was just doing pale ales and smash and got bored to loving death of hops. So I went and got a heap of different vials of brett and saison yeasts and candi sugar and started making piles of Belgian beer and sours lol
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Jan 24, 2015 12:23
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Seems I have the local Trader Joe's trained. They got a small shipment of Firestone Abacus (Sucaba), and it was flying out, so they put one aside and called me. Haven't cracked it, but how bad can a bourbon-aged barleywine be?
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Jan 24, 2015 15:25
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LaserWash posted:Thinking of doing this with an American Bock Lager (in the style of Shiner Bock) I'm making this weekend: I suppose that's not the worst way you could handle lagering I mean you could just skip it entirely and if you like the resulting beer then why complain I guess. Looks like he handles fermentation pretty much the standard way everybody with temp control does - don't see how it ties in with his short lager at all. I''ll be opinionated here and say anyone who lagers for ten days to two weeks is kidding themselves by claiming it's "as good" as a normal longer lager. Like he said lots of brew pubs do this and when I taste those lagers I make a very small grimace. When someone decides to cut corners they usually end up cutting more than one.
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Jan 24, 2015 15:50
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Myron Baloney posted:I suppose that's not the worst way you could handle lagering I mean you could just skip it entirely and if you like the resulting beer then why complain I guess. Looks like he handles fermentation pretty much the standard way everybody with temp control does - don't see how it ties in with his short lager at all. I''ll be opinionated here and say anyone who lagers for ten days to two weeks is kidding themselves by claiming it's "as good" as a normal longer lager. Like he said lots of brew pubs do this and when I taste those lagers I make a very small grimace. When someone decides to cut corners they usually end up cutting more than one. I've done this method for two lagers now, an Oktoberfest and a BoPils. It worked great for the Oktoberfest, although it definitely took some time lagering to drop clear, and there is a flavor difference. The BoPils I'm a little disappointed with, there's a flavor that I guess I identify as "estery", but I'm not sure exactly. It's also still not clear after 3 weeks cold in the keg. Overall, I don't think this method is bad, but for doing it again I'm going to make sure the fermentation stays cold until around 80% attenuation before ramping up for d-rest. That would add a couple days, probably, but you're still talking about kegging a lager in about 3 weeks. YMMV, though.
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Jan 24, 2015 15:56
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I make really small batches currently (6 liters which is about 1.6 gallons) cause my consumption is pretty low, and I'd like to try lots of recipies, while also drinking non-homebrew beers Anyways, with a tube of WLP001 which is meant for 5 gallons, I assume there's no real issue in splitting up the contents into three different batches over time? Basically, use a third in my first beer batch, and then keep the remaining WLP001 in the fridge until I'm making my next batch. I know an easy solution would just be to scale up my brewing, but I'm pretty cool with 6 liter brews currently.
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Jan 24, 2015 17:04
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How quickly is "over time"? I'd be a little concerned about it if it were more than a few weeks, and I'd want to be sure that I did what I could to keep the culture free of contamination in the meantime. It might be easier to do with dry yeast such as US-05.
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Jan 24, 2015 17:15
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McSpergin posted:Any time mate Yeah, I love the last beer I did because it turned out so perfect but I need a break from hops. I figure this is a good time to also switch off belgians cause it'll be better to do those in the summer when I have the ambient temp to help out fermenting. I think I am going to play with a new ESB and a stout recipe next. WAIT. Brett is fun, at Bell's I had a really cool Brett Stout. I should do that........and it begins.
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Jan 24, 2015 17:24
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ChiTownEddie posted:....and it begins.  Looks like our work here is done.
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Jan 24, 2015 17:28
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Jo3sh posted:How quickly is "over time"? I'd be a little concerned about it if it were more than a few weeks, and I'd want to be sure that I did what I could to keep the culture free of contamination in the meantime. It might be easier to do with dry yeast such as US-05. 2-4 weeks. Guess I will try and see what happens. If fermentation doesnt work out well for the last batch, ill just add more new yeast or something and hope for the best.
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Jan 24, 2015 19:24
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ChiTownEddie posted:Brett is fun, at Bell's I had a really cool Brett Stout. I should do that........and it begins. I had that too and really liked it. As I recall, it was about 5%, had a moderate roasty quality, and just enough Brett to taste.
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Jan 24, 2015 20:08
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Buffis posted:2-4 weeks. You could also consider using the whole thing and harvesting some of the yeast for subsequent batches. That way you could extend the use of your yeast and also get good pitching rates. Unrelated, I've got a quad going right now with Wyeast 3787. I was worried when, after a week it was at like 1.035 (OG 1.095). Not sure why I was worried, it's at 1.010 now. Pretty excited to taste this one. I actually made two batches and am going to add coffee to one. On that note, what's a good guideline for oz coffee per gallon beer? I'm planning on just adding straight beans.
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Jan 24, 2015 20:21
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I use 8-10oz per 5gal batch and it's good for my oatmeal stouts. I'm going back to making a cold brew extract for my next brew, though.
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Jan 24, 2015 21:51
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