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22 Eargesplitten posted:Do subarus have what qualifies as a cramped engine bay? I have only ever worked on this car, so I have nothing to compare it to. I keep having to take unrelated poo poo apart to get to stuff, though. Depends on what you want to do. The alternator is really easy to change, spark plugs, less so.
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Jan 26, 2015 07:12
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I don't really think so. Poke around an Audi or gtr or something and it all seems really simple. Even with the new turbo cars, once you get a few things out of the way it is not so bad. Stuff that kind of sucks: Plugs on a dohc forester/outback Fuel injectors without pulling the manifold on some cars Motor mounts in the car Oil pan/pickup Getting all the stock heat shields off the turbo Upper rear control arm bushings on the 08+
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Jan 26, 2015 09:00
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Is it possible to add upper back support to wrx buckets? Mines worn down and I have to drive with a towel or it really hurts my upper back/neck E: I think I might have to find seat covers that fit their really odd shape and attach foam to the cover. underage at the vape shop fucked around with this message at 13:32 on Jan 26, 2015 |
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Jan 26, 2015 13:02
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:Is it possible to add upper back support to wrx buckets? Mines worn down and I have to drive with a towel or it really hurts my upper back/neck You can pull the cover off and add/remove foam like you would on a motorcycle seat. My stock seats had ruined lower lumbar support and I stuffed in some extra one day. And yeah, most subaru stuff is relatively simple in the bay. There are a few gotcha jobs and the turbo cars have way more poo poo going on due to the extra poo poo supporting the turbo setup. An actual NA motor job is quick to rip out and put back in though.
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Jan 26, 2015 17:17
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Midjack posted:The glass under the orange coils should be warm to the touch after a minute or two of having the front/rear/mirror defroster on. If you're in a part of the country that's getting snow just leave off your climate control for a minute or two and see if the snow and ice melt around the wipers. So if they are cold with the poo poo running after driving to hardies 2 min away from my office thats a preatty good indicator that somethings hosed up yea?
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Jan 26, 2015 17:50
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I think I finally discovered what caused the transmission on my Forester to commit suicide a couple of weeks ago. Friday, I noticed that it felt like the hill holder wasn't releasing the brakes quite quickly enough when I pulled away from a stop, and shortly thereafter, the left front brake decided to completely lock after I'd parked the car, which is exactly what happened when the transmission had blown two weeks ago. When the shop looked at the car this morning, they figured out that the valve on the hill holder had failed, and was occasionally failing to release the brakes as the clutch pedal came up (or at all), which probably put enough strain on the old transmission to make something decide to let go the last time the valve quit working. Since replacing the valve would be something like $250 and I don't really need the hill holder (plus the fact the drat thing cost me $2700), I just had the shop disable the system (it's entirely mechanical, so they adjusted it to keep the hill holder from ever being able to engage), which only ran me $40, and should keep that system from causing any further problems down the line.
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Jan 26, 2015 17:53
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So was it just the hill holder sticking the whole time or is there actually something wrong with the old transmission? Do you get to keep it or do they have to send it back as a core? Would be worth pulling apart to see if anything is actually broken. It's pretty easy- take the transfer/center diff sections off the back then undo all the case bolts and it splits apart.
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Jan 26, 2015 18:18
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Sounds like the left front locked up while he was driving and grenaded the front diff. I'm guessing the damage from that was catastrophic.
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Jan 26, 2015 18:27
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jamal posted:So was it just the hill holder sticking the whole time or is there actually something wrong with the old transmission? Do you get to keep it or do they have to send it back as a core? Would be worth pulling apart to see if anything is actually broken. It's pretty easy- take the transfer/center diff sections off the back then undo all the case bolts and it splits apart. The old transmission was completely shot (I don't remember the specifics, but it was a catastrophic failure), and the shop is pretty sure that the loads from having a brake lock up while driving were what caused the failure. Apparently the way the valve failed meant that the brakes would release if the car sat long enough and/or got a good jolt (like being lowered off a tow truck) and the valve would work properly most of the time, so it probably released the brakes when the car was dropped off last time, and just didn't malfunction again for a couple of weeks after the new transmission was put in. Since the new transmission came off a Japanese Forester, it actually has hardware on the case for a high-low range selector (which doesn't do anything, since US Foresters don't have the low range gearset), and the 5th gear ratio is slightly lower than the US model. In highway driving, I've noticed that the engine runs about 200rpm faster for a given speed than it used to, but I'm pretty sure having 50,000 fewer miles on the transmission (I couldn't find a used one with less than about 100k here) will be worth a slight hit in fuel economy.
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Jan 26, 2015 19:43
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AcidRonin posted:So if they are cold with the poo poo running after driving to hardies 2 min away from my office thats a preatty good indicator that somethings hosed up yea? Yeah, they may not be getting power if it's no warmer than the rest of the glass at that point.
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Jan 27, 2015 01:07
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Do springs wear out? I'm thinking about going back to my stock springs, which have ~87k miles on them. No need to consider replacing them w/ that mileage, right? On a related note, how long do Koni yellows typically last? I've had them on Epic springs for close to 70k miles. I started with them adjusted in the middle of their range, and over time slowly increased the adjustment to compensate for perceived loss in dampening. I'm now at the point where the Konis are almost maxed out. I'm guessing switching back to the stock springs would get me a bit more life out of the Konis, but if I'm going to go through the trouble of swapping the springs and the Konis are on their last legs, I'll just do new Konis at the same time as the spring swap.
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Jan 27, 2015 01:51
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Are you me? I'm in almost the same situation, minus some miles on the konis, but thinking about switching from epics back to stock simply to be kinder to my ruined lower back. I'm just not sure what the handling/ride trade-off would be.
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Jan 27, 2015 02:36
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If you know the springrates you can pretty easily predict it, if the epics are stiff lowering springs, you'll have a softer higher ride going back to stock.
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Jan 27, 2015 03:14
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Epics are one of the sets that are not super low or overly stiff, and generally a spring does not really wear out. After 90k miles a shock is definitely on the way out though, and the koni sports are the type of things that you just replace. You can have them rebuilt at proparts usa (socal) or performance shock (at infineon) but it will probably cost about the same and result in you not having shocks for a few weeks.
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Jan 27, 2015 04:56
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Scrambles posted:Are you me? I'm in almost the same situation, minus some miles on the konis, but thinking about switching from epics back to stock simply to be kinder to my ruined lower back. I'm just not sure what the handling/ride trade-off would be. From what I've gathered, Konis are designed to be used with stock springs, and many people have used that combo and liked the results. I want to go back to stock because I've been driving on a lot of crappy SF roads recently that are very harsh and jarring with the Epics. Also, while I like the lowered look of the Epics, the extra ride height of stock springs is just more practical for the driving I do and places I go. Another question: my car has the Whiteline roll center adjustment / bump steer kit (ball joints and tie rod ends). Should I be thinking about immediately returning to stock ball joints and tie rod ends as well, or can I just wait until they actually need replacement? Will there be much of a difference either way?
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Jan 27, 2015 20:24
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What is a reasonable lifespan for springs? I have 175k on mine and am going to replace the struts this summer. Not sure if the springs are worth the extra expense (intact Subarus in junkyards are fairly rare where I live so a full JY swap is unlikely).
jailbait#3 fucked around with this message at 22:14 on Jan 27, 2015 |
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Jan 27, 2015 22:07
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Are they rusty as gently caress and have you overloaded your car by carrying multiple motors, tools, goons, etc. Should replace. Otherwise whatever. Depending on what model you have, you can play cheeky games with used OEM springs and uprate, or spend some bucks and get new aftermarket.
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Jan 27, 2015 22:13
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Splinter posted:From what I've gathered, Konis are designed to be used with stock springs, and many people have used that combo and liked the results. I want to go back to stock because I've been driving on a lot of crappy SF roads recently that are very harsh and jarring with the Epics. Also, while I like the lowered look of the Epics, the extra ride height of stock springs is just more practical for the driving I do and places I go. Seeing as the kit is designed for a modified CG index, and you'll be going back to/near stock parameters, it'd be a good idea to revert back to the proper kit. What are the spring rates for the epics? It looks like they choose not to publish any data out of fear for IP theft or some nonsense.
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Jan 28, 2015 03:52
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I need a catted downpipe for my '07 STI. Injen, Invidia, and Cobb seem to be the options, in order of price. Any reason I should not just go for the cheapest?
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Jan 28, 2015 16:18
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What are you doing with the rest of the exhaust? Cobb uses the stock donut gasket to connect to the midpipe. Invidia. injen, and grimmspeed are a 3" flat flange. You can get an adapter, and a full 3" exhaust will make a noticeable amount more than something with a stock 2.4" donut in the middle. Also I don't really like stuff from injen. So I would suggest invidia + adapter, or cobb, depending on if you have or will ever have a full turboback.
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Jan 28, 2015 19:11
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Re: Invidia + adapter. I would also recommend this route, however, be prepared to replace the flat gasket every year or so. I don't know why, but it just decays in that flange.
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Jan 28, 2015 19:34
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jamal posted:What are you doing with the rest of the exhaust? Cobb uses the stock donut gasket to connect to the midpipe. Invidia. injen, and grimmspeed are a 3" flat flange. You can get an adapter, and a full 3" exhaust will make a noticeable amount more than something with a stock 2.4" donut in the middle. Also I don't really like stuff from injen. Oh yeah, sorry. The rest of the exhaust is a generic 3" system, so I guess a flat flange is going to be what I need. I have been running it with a cheap generic non-catted downpipe as a stopgap measure, but I feel bad about making GBS threads up the environment and then there's this inspection thing but anyway So Invidia, and no need for the adapter? Do I have that right?
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Jan 28, 2015 20:39
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saint gerald posted:Oh yeah, sorry. The rest of the exhaust is a generic 3" system, so I guess a flat flange is going to be what I need. I have been running it with a cheap generic non-catted downpipe as a stopgap measure, but I feel bad about making GBS threads up the environment and then there's this inspection thing but anyway You do need the adapter for the Invidia one. I have the 09 version of the catted downpipe and I needed it as well; it's cheap.
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Jan 28, 2015 20:44
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He's got 3" for the rest of the exhaust so it will just bolt right up.saint gerald posted:Oh yeah, sorry. The rest of the exhaust is a generic 3" system, so I guess a flat flange is going to be what I need. I have been running it with a cheap generic non-catted downpipe as a stopgap measure, but I feel bad about making GBS threads up the environment and then there's this inspection thing but anyway Think I have your zip code around somewhere in pms, want a price from me?
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Jan 28, 2015 20:45
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jamal posted:He's got 3" for the rest of the exhaust so it will just bolt right up. Missed that part, my mistake.
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Jan 28, 2015 20:48
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jamal posted:He's got 3" for the rest of the exhaust so it will just bolt right up. Phew, I thought I had that down until Gigi Galli threw me back into confusion. A quote would be awesome. No rush, I have a few weeks to get this done.
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Jan 28, 2015 20:51
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saint gerald posted:Phew, I thought I had that down until Gigi Galli threw me back into confusion. I'm a bad rear end in a top hat, sorry. It's probably because my namesake drove a Mitsubishi.
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Jan 29, 2015 00:21
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Might any of you have an old Accessport for a bugeye lying around that you wouldn't mind selling? My car got broken into a few months ago and it was swiped out of my glove box. And since the savages didn't take the time to grab my keys out of the house to properly uninstall it, it's useless and probably ended up in some rear end in a top hat's trash. As much as I liked the thing when I used it once or twice per year, it was overpriced to begin with and there's no way I'm dropping that kind of cash again. It's hilarious how many ebay listings are for married units that the seller claims are "unlockable for a few bucks", since I'm pretty sure Cobb charges about 5 bucks less than a brand new unit to do the honors.
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Jan 29, 2015 05:00
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Computer Opponent posted:Might any of you have an old Accessport for a bugeye lying around that you wouldn't mind selling? My car got broken into a few months ago and it was swiped out of my glove box. And since the savages didn't take the time to grab my keys out of the house to properly uninstall it, it's useless and probably ended up in some rear end in a top hat's trash. FWIW: I'm more than happy with my cheaper Tactrix unit. No pairing needed.
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Jan 29, 2015 20:22
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So, I was really happy my car didn't have an hg issue and now I wish it had. Small crack on the block, just under the hg. FML
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Jan 30, 2015 20:43
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Like in the cylinder or the block case itself? Suppose you could get some new case halves, new rings, new bearings, and re-use mostly everything else.
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Jan 30, 2015 20:45
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jamal posted:Like in the cylinder or the block case itself? At the top of the cylinder, basically between the water and the cumbustion chamber. I'm probably rebuilding with a used case and reusing as much as I can.
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Jan 30, 2015 20:50
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Lame. Unfortunately that happens, although not very often at lower power levels. Some people say boring the cylinders to 100mm makes it more likely but I don't really buy that. I have all the seal/gasket part numbers in a spreadsheet somewhere, it works out to less than buying the full gasket kit. jamal fucked around with this message at 21:07 on Jan 30, 2015 |
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Jan 30, 2015 21:03
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Jan 31, 2015 03:30
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Man, you have a whole folder of horrible mechanical failures. A friend of mine was trying to decide between a used forester or a cherokee. I recommended the jeep.
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Jan 31, 2015 04:28
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I really wish I didn't like this car so much.
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Jan 31, 2015 05:58
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No Subaru left behind.
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Jan 31, 2015 06:05
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Well, there's so much nice stuff going on there still. Can't throw the whole car out. Off the top of my head: JE pistons ACL bearings ARP head studs Killer b pickup New gearset with WPC treatment cusco front LSD plus fresh seals, gaskets, timing kit etc. And you have RCE T1 coilovers, right?
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Jan 31, 2015 06:48
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Question: Apparently I have 3 case choices ~$1200 -- New EJ257 case ~$500 -- Used EJ257/5 case (Apparently quite rare -- mechanic not sure he can source one) ~$300-200 -- Used nonturbo Ej25 case (Apparently only slightly different. Mechanic says a bit less strong, but should be fine) My gut says get the used turbo case but not sure we can source one. I will admit some worry about the non-turbo given what just happened to a slightly stronger case, but if we can't find a used turbo case, it is tempting, given that the cost difference between new and non-turbo is going to be a bit less than half the cost of the rebuild. I'm only stg2 now (~250whp), and if I did do any power mods, I might do a slightly larger turbo to ~300 whp, but that is somewhat unlikely. I certainly wouldn't do more. I have forged pistons, but no other real engine mods.
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Jan 31, 2015 06:51
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No on the non-turbo case. Less cylinder wall reinforcement and a missing pcv port on the top of the block. If you can't find a used 2.5 turbo block get a new case. There are usually a couple on nasioc and ebay and I think your pistons are 100mm so it needs a hone and bore anyway.
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Jan 31, 2015 06:58
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