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astrollinthepork posted:My 87 244 got rear ended at slow speed. No real damage aside from the bumper. Are the wagon bumpers the same as the sedan bumpers? I think the bumpers are the same but the trim is different. If you need one on the cheap, there are a couple 240s in the Columbus Pick-n-Pull right now.
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Jan 14, 2015 16:11
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zundfolge posted:I think the bumpers are the same but the trim is different. If you need one on the cheap, there are a couple 240s in the Columbus Pick-n-Pull right now. Oh god yes I do, I've been calling yards for days now trying to find a 240. Thank you so much.
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Jan 15, 2015 18:11
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 God drat it. For the third time in a row, The Car is posted the day before the two days a week I have work and can't travel the 50 miles each way to go and see it. 
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Jan 16, 2015 08:35
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I chopped a junkyard CPS so I could basically use it to extend the wiring up to make for easier to run the test that appears here [url] http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=341323[/url] The ground was fine, read close to 0 ohms. When I did the tests on the power lead and signal lead, they both read 5 volts, instead of 12v which the procedure says it should be. Funny thing is there is mention in the thread above of Haynes stating that the signal voltage should be 5v, but that is supposedly wrong. I did note that the guy that had the same problem in the thread had a 98 and not a 99. I wish the wiring to the connector had a little more slack. I cannot seem to get anything in there to backprobe the connector. I guess I will take a stab at pulling the ecu to check the wiring between them. I hate to just throw money at a new cps, but that is tempting as well. I actually went and picked one up from Autozone, as they showed it in stock, but it was incorrect. May have to get an OEM one from someplace.
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Jan 17, 2015 19:50
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http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/cto/4853484210.html    my brother is interested in this one. I may go and check it out for him if he stays interested. atomicthumbs fucked around with this message at 04:58 on Jan 22, 2015 |
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Jan 22, 2015 04:48
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Oh, I want that.
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Jan 22, 2015 04:53
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Bullshit. That has to be a broken odo gear. ...buy it anyway.
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Jan 22, 2015 04:56
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My car's been having this weird brake squeaking issue that's driving me insane. When the car's brakes get warm, they start a low-pitch squealing like truck brakes, but it only seems to affect a single segment of the rotor (so squeak squeak squeak instead of squeeeeal). The thing is, it's happening to every rotor. Could this be caused by not shimming the brakes? Also, how big of a pain is it to replace the parking cable? Mine is pretty much shot. Should I do brake shoes as well or are they typically okay?
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Jan 22, 2015 17:49
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Have you checked your pads? I can't remember if the 240's pads have wear-indicator squealers on them.
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Jan 22, 2015 18:00
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Pads are brand new, as are the rear rotors (and the front rotors have <20k)
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Jan 22, 2015 18:03
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Finally got the ECU out and a wiring diagram. Got continuity between the ecu pin connector 65 and ground. No continuity between power wire and pin 57 or signal wire and pin 47. Tomorrow I am going to back up and try again as I cannot figure how I got 5v power to power and the signal wires with no continuity. Maybe there is a break somewhere I made worse.
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Jan 25, 2015 03:17
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Pulled a junkyard wiring harness. Apparently, I was looking at the wrong wiring diagram. I have continuity from the pins on the ECU to the wiring connectors. That is a real relief, because pulling that engine wiring harness even on a car without the head and a bunch of other parts missing was a bitch. Now at least I have a harness I can kind of use as a test bed in the future, I suppose. My engine management system is ME7. Going to start researching that as it apparently is quite different than the system used in the instructions I had. At this point I am kind of betting the wiring is fine and a new CPS is in order. So much for my New year's resolution not to throw $250 parts at my cars until I find out it is a 50 cent solution.
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Jan 25, 2015 22:18
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Yeah, if you were troubleshooting using instructions for Motronic 4.4 or the earlier systems that'll definitely confuse you if your car is ME7. I know it's a simple thing, but have you made sure that you put the ring for the cam sensor (the part that's bolted to the rear of the exhaust cam) back in the right way? I have no idea whether it makes any difference for the '99+ stuff but in the '98 and earlier cars it can lead to really long cranking times/failure to start if it's installed 180 degrees out from where it should be.
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Jan 26, 2015 02:48
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I have a line on a full 2.8l BMW six from clutch fan to driveshaft. If it ends up happening I'm going to shove my RSI stage 3 cam up a certain former RSI employee's rear end and put the 2.8l in my lime green 242. I paid for the cam last May, was told they'd be a few weeks out, current ETA is another 2-3 months (yea right). Don't buy from RSI. Unless you're local to them and can hound them in person. Or just don't buy from them at all for being flaky assholes.
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Jan 26, 2015 02:54
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zundfolge posted:Yeah, if you were troubleshooting using instructions for Motronic 4.4 or the earlier systems that'll definitely confuse you if your car is ME7. I know it's a simple thing, but have you made sure that you put the ring for the cam sensor (the part that's bolted to the rear of the exhaust cam) back in the right way? I have no idea whether it makes any difference for the '99+ stuff but in the '98 and earlier cars it can lead to really long cranking times/failure to start if it's installed 180 degrees out from where it should be. On mine, it only fits one way due to the way it is surrounded by other brackets, but I think I will leave those off and the housing loose and see if I can twist it while my helper tries to start it, just in case I am missing something.
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Jan 26, 2015 04:03
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EvellSnoats posted:On mine, it only fits one way due to the way it is surrounded by other brackets, but I think I will leave those off and the housing loose and see if I can twist it while my helper tries to start it, just in case I am missing something. Just to make sure we're on the same page, I wasn't talking about the sensor housing, but the wheel that the sensor uses to pick up the cam position. When I was replacing the timing belt in my V70R I took a picture of it for some reason: 
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Jan 26, 2015 04:47
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cross posted from post your own ride: Bought a $500 Volvo wagon  Its got a weird thing hanging off the exhaust  and the spare well had a seat in it  and it came with some extra stuff  Gonna start with the heater core since it leaks and was looped by the original owner, then de-looped by the hillrod I bought it from who had it for 6 weeks, put some BARRS in it and gave up after the alternator started acting up. He had an alternator shop put in new brushes in it, but I dont know if he knew how the tensioner worked because I could remove the belt by hand and it was so over stretched it was rubber band-y, as well as the adjuster bolt being covered in grease. $5 Alternator belt later and it runs and charges just fine, drives great, just is tired. So Im going to re-loop the cooling system and flush the everloving hell out of it, then put the new core in. After that probably going to do the full IPD tune up that came with the car (timing belt, fuel filter, bougicords etc.). Then flush the tranny and put in the new pan gasket and filter that came with the car. And then reflow the cluster so my gas gauge will work, basically it just needs alot of TLC. Are window/moon roof regulators hard to get for these? should I start looking in scrap yards now? Good news is there is a dealer sticker in the bay indicating a timing belt at 150k in 2008 so I know it was at least (somewhat) maintained until then... I had a 240 but it was an 87 with the wonderful biodegrading wiring harness, and it had more electrical demons than an MG and have always wanted a wagon. Is there a way to "cheat" the heater core by cutting a door as was common with 240s (if I remember correctly) I want to make this into a reliable DD, what else should I do. e:can't spell edit edit: what the hell is that thing next to the fuel filter used for holding? the crank or something? BigFuzzyJesus fucked around with this message at 05:56 on Jan 26, 2015 |
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Jan 26, 2015 05:47
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sometimes i wish i could drive my wagon from the jump seat edit: also my hatch keeps falling on me when it's cold, how do i fix this? Big Bowie Bonanza fucked around with this message at 05:53 on Jan 26, 2015 |
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Jan 26, 2015 05:51
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FordPRefectLL posted:edit: also my hatch keeps falling on me when it's cold, how do i fix this? struts
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Jan 26, 2015 06:00
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That's a nice wagon! One of the first things in would do is install an aftermarket transmission cooler. The stock radiator one likes to mix coolant and atf, this kills the transmission. What year car is it? It's obviously a 92+, but if it is a 93+, the motor probably just needs to be caught up on maintenance. Timing belt and front engine seals are a good idea, as is the pcv system. Check for vacuum/boost leaks, as the pcv system can pump a lot of oil into the intake, killing the rubber couplers. A 15g turbo and some chips (about $250 in parts) will really wake this car up. Add some cheaper injectors, crank up the boost to >16psi and you should have a high 13 low 14 second wagon! (You'll want to do the accumulator mods on the trans)
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Jan 26, 2015 10:50
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Thanks! I'm pretty happy with it. It's a 1994, the couplers on the IC piping are all pretty soft so I imagine that is already happening. Should I just do the water pump while I'm in there? Where should I start looking for a 15g just gonna edit this in so I dont double post: Has anyone heard of ADPI heater cores? They seem to be the only heater core I can find with copper end tanks and fittings versus the nissen one that has plastic end tanks. If I'm going all the way in there I want to replace with a quality component but the one from the dealer is 270-320 depending on where you shop. Heres a link with the two cores Im talking about : here BigFuzzyJesus fucked around with this message at 18:56 on Jan 26, 2015 |
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Jan 26, 2015 16:31
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That was a nice wagon score man. Thankfully most of those maintenance items you've got are relatively easy and affordable other than the heater core. I guess tearing the dash out makes up for it though  Good luck, hopefully it lasts you for a long time as a warm thank you for saving it from the junkyard.
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Jan 26, 2015 20:05
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Here's a minimal heater core writeup for you: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=194055 No matter what heater core you buy, you most likely won't need to replace it again for over 100k miles, what are the odds you'll keep the car that long? Still, I love me some 9 series. Most reliable drat car ever. I keep wanting another one just because I'm so hard on my V70 and I know the 940 can take it with a lot less maintenance.
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Jan 27, 2015 07:10
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Tell me about 1994 850 T-5 wagons with the automatic transmission, there is one locally for ~$1800 with 136k miles, what should I be on the look out for?
rscott fucked around with this message at 20:55 on Jan 27, 2015 |
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Jan 27, 2015 20:20
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zundfolge posted:Just to make sure we're on the same page, I wasn't talking about the sensor housing, but the wheel that the sensor uses to pick up the cam position. When I was replacing the timing belt in my V70R I took a picture of it for some reason: Got you. On my 99, the end of the cam shaft has slots running vertically and one slot running at about 45 degrees to the horizontal slot. The piece you have circled only fits one way, it cannot go 180 degrees off and fit. At least i don't think, I will check it. Please guys, you don't know how much I appreciate ANY ideas in the meantime. This is going to end up being something stupid I did on the timing belt/headgasket job.
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Jan 28, 2015 02:57
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rscott posted:Tell me about 1994 850 T-5 wagons with the automatic transmission, there is one locally for ~$1800 with 136k miles, what should I be on the look out for? I think lloyddobbler is the resident FWD expert. I don't know anything about them except they require special tools for a lot of engine work (like valve cover is part of the cam carrier), have issues with the PCV (the same if not more so than redblocks), and in my anecdotal experience with the early FWD cars is electrical gremlins. I wouldn't bother unless it has been well taken care of. They do supposedly drive real nice when the suspension is in good condition, and the auto is supposedly fine with stock power levels. That said, I think these came with lifetime fluid, and like all the other cars like this, it did in fact need periodic changing. If it shifts funny run away!
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Jan 28, 2015 04:11
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rscott posted:Tell me about 1994 850 T-5 wagons with the automatic transmission, there is one locally for ~$1800 with 136k miles, what should I be on the look out for? 850s are pretty reliable, but a lot of them are on their third or fourth owner by now so they usually have a bunch of deferred maintenance. It probably needs some tune-up and suspension work and if there's no record of the timing belt being replaced it'll need to be done soon because of the mileage (the interval is 70K). The PCV system/crankcase breather might also need replaced; it gets clogged up and causes oil leaks. If it drives well, the heat and AC work, the engine doesn't smoke, and the interior's decent $1800 is a good price. e: just saw mafoose's post. The 4-speed auto in the 850s is pretty durable and it should still shift OK even if the fluid is nasty. It's the 5-speed autos in the '00 and newer cars that you have to worry about (although they're really nice when they're working right). SUSE Creamcheese fucked around with this message at 18:38 on Jan 28, 2015 |
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Jan 28, 2015 04:15
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Dude sold it and didn't take the ad down, c'est la vie. Good stuff to know in the future though, thanks
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Jan 28, 2015 17:34
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RE: used 850s and by extension P80s in general (trigger warning: opinions and personal experience) Checklist: Suspension Components are a 100-125k refresh PCV Breather (regular service intervals, not hard to test for proper functionality) Timing Belt (pulling the top timing cover is no big deal but probably not something you can do in front of the person you're buying it from) Water Pump (look for leaking on the block like normal with WPs) Rough Shifting (the AW50 is very stout under normal operating conditions "but lifetime fluid"  )Burnt Valves (commonly a cylinder misfire code accompanying no compression P30X CEL) ABS sensor module (rebuilds/repaired modules are cheap but its a PITA to change) Radiator replacement (the oil coolers spring leaks and pump oil into the water circuit, this is an all day semi-hell job) Volvo A/C ( a lost cause in my experience between various 240s and this 850) If you're getting one that's in deferred maintenance hell in my opinion I wouldn't pay more than 500$ for it, maybe upwards of 1k if the body is really clean with no rust, good paint and hasn't been wrecked but even that's a pretty huge stretch. I've got between 2000 and 2500 (parts and home work for some, parts and shop labor for a few things like the PCV refresh) in the 400$ one we own including 6 tires. For the total price of about 3 thousand I've got an awesome ride with about 125k miles on it and rebuilt/reworked everything but a new motor and transmission and a couple vacuum lines. I don't have any electrical gremlins other than some funny poo poo with duct routing for the heat and air but the heater still makes the car hot inside so vOv. I just need to tear the dash apart and probably fix stuff after someone installed an AFTERMARKET PERFORMANCE STEREO. I'll do it when it eventually needs a heater core Overall they're easy to diagnose and repair, parts aren't oppressively expensive in my personal opinion and the motors and transmissions are reliable to a fault if well maintained. Check out RobertDIY on YouTube for many common repairs and diagnoses before you dive in, the dude is a little country and he does knock a CV axle in by the u-joint in one video but he's very well experienced in 850s of various types. Personally I love the one I own. It's a blast to drive and it runs like a top. It could definitely use a lifetime fluid change though
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Jan 29, 2015 18:26
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Literally the first thing I did after purchasing my 855T was take it to the Volvo dealer and had them do a full transmission flush. Totally worth it. The second thing I did after buying it was burn a valve
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Jan 29, 2015 18:33
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Bought a 2013 S60 T5 over the weekend. The hose that routes air to the air filter box keeps coming unclipped; has anyone else had this issue? Is it something to really worry about? Also, does anyone know if the 3 years/36000 mile carefree maintenance transferrs to used cars? The warranty manual is a little vague.
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Jan 29, 2015 19:37
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skylineboy08 posted:RE: used 850s and by extension P80s in general (trigger warning: opinions and personal experience) Also, the heater cores can get brittle over time and start to seep. You'll maybe notice a faint smell of coolant or a fog coming out of the vents after the car has run for a while. Makes a sticky film on the glass.
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Jan 30, 2015 01:50
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I've had to replace the heater core in every P80 car I've owned. Fortunately it only takes an hour.
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Jan 30, 2015 02:24
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skylineboy08 posted:RE: used 850s and by extension P80s in general (trigger warning: opinions and personal experience) And my anecdotal a/c experience with these cars has been opposite, it worked in both my cars. In fact the previously wrecked white wagon, was missing one of the low pressure hard pipes, was like that for a couple years before I got around to finding one. Bolted it up with new o rings, shot refrigerant to it just to see if the compressor would do anything... It's still working 4 years, 80k, and a new owner later. Never pulled a vacuum on it. And I'd like to add to the checklist... Headgasket failure. Overheat and it will pop quick as a minute. If there is any stored misfire code, make drat sure you check compression before buying one.
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Jan 30, 2015 07:36
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angryrobots posted:I agree with your summary except how in the world is changing the radiator an all day job? I probably pulled the rad at least 3 or 4 times It was the first p80 radiator I had done and I had a hell of a time getting the intercooler/radiator/ac condensor sandwich back together once i dropped the new radiator in. I've chalked it up to inexperience more than anything and I'm sure there's a trick but my words were directed towards someone who sounded like they hadn't done one before on this particular car. Also the fact that you kind of have to tear everything apart in the front of the motor to get the fan shroud and then the radiator out. Also fair enough on the a/c thing, i've never actually cared enough to figure them out and make them work because the first air conditioned car i drove was like 6 years after I started driving through 110 degree heat index summers heh. rarbatrol posted:heater core chat Zundfolge, are they way easier than 240 heater cores? I might just knock it out on a Saturday, I'm sure the thing could use replacing and I'd rather not wait on it to start pissing coolant inside the cabin.
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Jan 30, 2015 15:07
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It's a thousand times easier than replacing a 240 heater core. All you have to do is drain the coolant, take off the panels on the bottom of the dash, R&R the core, and put the dash back together. The only difficult part is putting the core back into the heater box without bending the fins. I've found that it helps to take the evaporator drain tube off the nipple it connects to on the floor-it gives you a few more inches of clearance when you're trying to get everything lined up.
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Jan 30, 2015 23:00
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So what are the opinions of the V50 wagons? Definitely going to get a wagon just not sure which direction to go, I like the V50 but I'm thinking I may be better off avoiding any European wagons to begin with 
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Jan 31, 2015 06:18
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Everything I've read says they are really quite solid. They platform share with the Mazda 3 and Ford Focus of that generation so performance parts are plentiful. Plus if you shop around you can get any variation of turbo, fwd OR awd, and auto OR 6 speed manual. As in, T5 AWD 6 speeds are available. I recommended one to a friend, he bought it CPO with like 40k miles on it, and both he and his wife loved it for about 4 years. It did develop a weird electrical gremlin where the car would just shut off while driving and knowing nothing about cars they flipped out and immediately traded it in. Probably just the ignition switch or something, they live a few states away so I couldn't help diagnose it. If I ever replace my V70 a V50 is on the short list to shop for. Hell, I almost bought a T5 auto AWD last year with a blown motor but the guy wanted too much for it. My dad has a replacement motor just sitting in his shop so it would have been gravy. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 07:11 on Jan 31, 2015 |
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Jan 31, 2015 07:09
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Interesting that they platform share with the 3 and Focus, it seemed bigger than either one of those, I saw one in person the other day and was pretty impressed overall. Speaking of V70's how are those as well? Seem to be a lot of them for sale around here.....I'm just a bit leery of getting into a V50/V70 in my price range because they tend to have over 100k miles and I don't want to get stuck with any high cost maintenance that the PO didn't feel like doing.
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Jan 31, 2015 07:18
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Which generation? Or rather, what's your price range? :p I think dealing with deferred maintenance is just part of the used Volvo experience.
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Jan 31, 2015 16:50
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