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ReelBigLizard posted:For spring steel you want HSSCO (Cobalt alloy) bits, M35-grade is good, M42 is better. Yeah the problem is that they're not in the same spot on every piece. Makes for a tough build. Thanks for the bit tips!
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Jan 28, 2015 22:40
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I'd go as slow as your drill press will go. 200-300 rpm would be a good spot. Most drill presses aren't made for cutting metal. They aren't very rigid and they don't have the torque.
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Jan 28, 2015 22:53
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iwannabebobdylan posted:I think if I take it back to 20g and 5/16" hole I'm getting 1.44 tons, which seems sorta do-able. Drilling such thin sheet with a relatively big drill is going to be hard, it'll just bend and if you punch through it won't make a full hole, the bit'll catch the sharp edges and drag your tool down and the part up, potentially throwing it. Not fun. One thing you could try is taping the sheet down to a sacrificial block so that it'll be more rigid and you can actually get a full hole. We use double sided carpet tape, and while I haven't tried it for this application, it should work. Alternatively just clamp it down to a sacrificial block right by your cut.
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Jan 28, 2015 23:06
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oxbrain posted:I'd go as slow as your drill press will go. 200-300 rpm would be a good spot. https://www.grizzly.com/products/G7943 This is what I have, working with, but I usually use it for wood, and I set up my garbage ryobi for metal work. I think the Ryobi is set at 600rpm or somtehing, but I know the Grizz gets down super slow. I'll come back with a trip report in a few weeks and we'll see how it went. I'll also back it with some Oak, that's a good call for sure.
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Jan 29, 2015 04:31
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New favorite insane metalworking technique: http://www.brynmorgen.com/samples/pdfs/PracticalCasting.pdf e: although to be fair, that pipe contraption is a hell of a lot cheaper/simpler than any other way I've seen to centrifugally cast door Door door fucked around with this message at 04:38 on Jan 29, 2015 |
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Jan 29, 2015 04:31
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iwannabebobdylan posted:Yeah the problem is that they're not in the same spot on every piece. Makes for a tough build. Thanks for the bit tips! NP, Cobalt is the poo poo. You could also Macguiver your drill press into an ECM machine - http://www.popsci.com/diy/article/2009-06/carve-steel-saltwater-electricity-and-tin-earring  edit: I think I found this summers "metalwork project" while I was digging out that link: http://www.popsci.com/making-moonshine-homebuilt-reflux-still-video ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 10:15 on Jan 29, 2015 |
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Jan 29, 2015 10:04
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I finally pulled the trigger on a brand new anvil after looking for months. A few months ago I was ready to do it, but then decided on a flypress instead. I happened to get a nice bonus for work so I decided to order this anvil after I kept coming back to it again and again.
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Jan 29, 2015 21:15
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halonx posted:I finally pulled the trigger on a brand new anvil after looking for months. A few months ago I was ready to do it, but then decided on a flypress instead. I happened to get a nice bonus for work so I decided to order this anvil after I kept coming back to it again and again. Fuckin awesome. How much, how heavy, where from, did it come with the lifting strap and base stand, and, most importantly, can you use it to do shoulder shrugs?
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Jan 29, 2015 22:34
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ReelBigLizard posted:For spring steel you want HSSCO (Cobalt alloy) bits, M35-grade is good, M42 is better. Was just going to suggest this too. We have a water jet, sounds like it would make quick work of that. Edit: whoops should've kept reading.
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Jan 30, 2015 01:54
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Slung Blade posted:Fuckin awesome. How much, how heavy, where from, did it come with the lifting strap and base stand, and, most importantly, can you use it to do shoulder shrugs? $1495 plus another $200 for the stand from Big Blu, weighs 260+ pounds. The strap was literally the only way I could lift it, I had to use my engine hoist. I tried lifting it out of the back of my car and just about pooped myself.
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Jan 30, 2015 03:20
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halonx posted:I tried lifting it out of the back of my car Jesus Christ
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Jan 30, 2015 15:35
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A Proper Uppercut posted:Was just going to suggest this too. We have a water jet, sounds like it would make quick work of that. It got me wondering about a "waterjet drill press" type device. An ultra high pressure pump and toolhead for a waterjet cutter without all the cnc stuff, just mounted to a pillar drill type press with a deep bucket full of water underneath. Just set a diameter, bring the table up to the right height above the piece and press go and it moves in a circle of that diameter. You would need sacrificial material at the bottom of the bucket so you don't go right through, of course. You could probably just keep throwing your offcuts in there though, all the different angles would do a good job of deflecting the jet. It would be hilariously dangerous of course. But at least the cut would be clean when the doctors re attach whatever you cut off.
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Jan 30, 2015 15:39
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at the date posted:Jesus Christ I lift my old 180lbs anvil to move it around, I figured, whats another 80lbs? Quite a bit it seems.
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Jan 30, 2015 16:06
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at the date posted:Jesus Christ I reverse deadlifted a lawn tractor off the back of my truck once because I didn't have ramps at the time  Also, halonx, that seems like a good deal. Was the company pleasant to work with? Sometimes, small specialty manufacturers are royal pains in the dick. Slung Blade fucked around with this message at 16:45 on Jan 30, 2015 |
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Jan 30, 2015 16:43
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Slung Blade posted:Also, halonx, that seems like a good deal. Was the company pleasant to work with? Sometimes, small specialty manufacturers are royal pains in the dick. They were pretty drat good. They make anvils, power hammers, etc. but they also are a working blacksmith shop ( http://www.oakhilliron.com/ ). They seem to really know their stuff and I think one of their guys is more or less dedicated to customer service.
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Jan 30, 2015 17:48
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halonx posted:I finally pulled the trigger on a brand new anvil after looking for months. A few months ago I was ready to do it, but then decided on a flypress instead. I happened to get a nice bonus for work so I decided to order this anvil after I kept coming back to it again and again. A flat horn on an anvil comes in very handy. Beautiful purchase. Did you already post a picture of the flypress? I want to see the fly press. BobDylan, I feel you on those drill bits. I am currently countersinking a bunch of 303 stainless but the countersinks only last about 20 holes. They didn't have any carbide bits at the hardware store.  As the others said, carbide bits and oil. It's also possible to sharpen drills using a bench sander, but it's hard as gently caress to do it right.
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Jan 30, 2015 19:16
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ArtistCeleste posted:A flat horn on an anvil comes in very handy. Beautiful purchase. Did you already post a picture of the flypress? I want to see the fly press. I did not, but here is a picture of it right after I finished getting the stand built:  It is a #4 from oldworldanvils.com and has been awesome, other than the shipping company who were complete knobs. So far I've used it to do some mokume gane and some dishing with my swage block. I have to make the tooling for each project I use it for before I can start the project so that adds some extra fun to using the press.
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Jan 30, 2015 20:52
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I made a thing yesterday More pictures later when the guy paints it, he hadn't decided on a color yet.
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Jan 31, 2015 18:35
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halonx posted:They were pretty drat good. They make anvils, power hammers, etc. but they also are a working blacksmith shop ( http://www.oakhilliron.com/ ). They seem to really know their stuff and I think one of their guys is more or less dedicated to customer service. Wait, thats in Morganton NC. Are you a local to this area? (I'm 15 minutes west of Morganton.)
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Feb 1, 2015 08:14
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ReelBigLizard posted:It got me wondering about a "waterjet drill press" type device. An ultra high pressure pump and toolhead for a waterjet cutter without all the cnc stuff, just mounted to a pillar drill type press with a deep bucket full of water underneath. Just set a diameter, bring the table up to the right height above the piece and press go and it moves in a circle of that diameter. You would need sacrificial material at the bottom of the bucket so you don't go right through, of course. You could probably just keep throwing your offcuts in there though, all the different angles would do a good job of deflecting the jet. I think the big issue with something like that (aside from the obvious, haha) is that I think like 75% of the cost and maintenance on a waterjet is the pump. At that point you may as well just get the cnc poo poo too.
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Feb 1, 2015 10:21
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Kasan posted:Wait, thats in Morganton NC. Are you a local to this area? (I'm 15 minutes west of Morganton.) Nope, I'm in central Wisconsin and had to have it shipped, which ended up being about half price when I found a place with a loading dock to have it shipped to.
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Feb 1, 2015 19:03
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Anyone here yet thought of making arrowheads?
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Feb 1, 2015 21:40
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JaucheCharly posted:Anyone here yet thought of making arrowheads? I made a spearhead a week ago, which is pretty close, and one of my blacksmith friends makes a good bit of arrowheads and sells them to his fletcher pal who makes bows and arrows
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Feb 1, 2015 21:44
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I have a crazy hobby too.
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Feb 1, 2015 22:00
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Cool, medieval IUDs. just kidding of course, I saw your post elsewhere
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Feb 1, 2015 22:03
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I haven't been posting about it, but blacksmithing school is going hella well 3 weeks in. Made a coatrack and other shoddy crap. Hopefully my stuff will get less shoddy by the end???
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Feb 2, 2015 01:02
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Ambrose Burnside posted:I haven't been posting about it, but blacksmithing school is going hella well 3 weeks in. Made a coatrack and other shoddy crap. Hopefully my stuff will get less shoddy by the end??? Which school are you going to? I've taken a couple classes at the John C. Compbell Folk school and I learned so much in a very short time.
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Feb 2, 2015 01:05
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Fleming College's artist blacksmith certificate program- http://flemingcollege.ca/programs/artist-blacksmith 15 weeks, full-time. I'm gonna be forging stuff 8+ hours a day for the next 3 months 
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Feb 2, 2015 02:35
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drat. You're gonna learn a fuckload, and your hammer precision will be closer than it ever has before. I'm pretty jealous.
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Feb 2, 2015 04:03
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I wish such a thing existed out here in BC. There's beginner and intermediate classes being offered by one of the local colleges after much prompting, but they start at 8am in a city an hour away with no public transit access.
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Feb 2, 2015 06:59
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Fleming College's artist blacksmith certificate program- http://flemingcollege.ca/programs/artist-blacksmith 15 weeks, full-time. I'm gonna be forging stuff 8+ hours a day for the next 3 months I wonder if I can convince my girlfriend we need to take a 3 month sabbatical to Ontario... Jealous as gently caress.
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Feb 2, 2015 10:32
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I hope this isn't taboo for diy/hobbies but: I made a thing.  2.25" diameter, 3/4 diameter shank 8 inches long. My machining instructor wants to sell some of these as they are a niche tool as a way to raise money for our program since North Carolina decided to rear end-gently caress education and leave it bleeding beside the road. I have a longer write up on Facebook but the tl;dr is I can make any diameter or cone from 1" to 3" diameter. Prices from $60 to $175 shipped. Its a ball anvil that's been heat treated and hardened to 65c so it'll take some punishment. I can make some custom tooling and hardies as long as it starts life as mild steel stock. (I can harden it to very high carbon levels if needs arise). Diameters from .125 inches up to 3 inches. (I can maaaaaaybe go up to 4 inches, but they would be by building up a 3" round with an inch of weld and machining the profile. I actually want to try this so I'm willing to take on a tool order for something like that pre-payment just to see if I can make it work). Bar stocks are hit or miss. We have stuff scattered all over the place since it's almost all donations. A lot of thin narrow stuff, or big square stuff (2.5 inches maybe? I haven't actually measure the bar stock because it's a bitch to move on my own). 100% of these money goes into the program to buy the tooling and replacement parts that our school had been reusing to buy for at least the 5 years I've been here. (We have a lathe that's broken and literally only needs a $30 belt to run that the school has to buy for liability issues). Maintenance is willing to order stuff for us so it's on the level, but we have to have the petty cash first. Any interest in goonland? I could probably talk him into knocking off $10-$15 on the bigger ones as a special customer discount since I'm dealing with almost everything except manufacturing (which we turned into a class project as a learning exercise and we hope to sell a few so each student can make one from start to nearly finish. Heat treating is strictly my domain.). I can probably polish the finished anvils if the matte black look isn't your thing, but tools are meant to be used, not look like shiny showroom pieces. I can also do oblongs, but they are a little more expensive unless you don't want a hardy shank. I don't have PMs so post here or email my school account at jebrooks14 at go dot mcdowelltech dot edu edit: third edit is the charm  edit 2: Canadian/Internation Goons: I might need to get back to you if you want one. I don't know what international shipping costs for anything because I never mail stuff, but don't assume the US price includes international shipping and think "Holy poo poo what a deal". I'll try and adjust on the fly based on where it's going so you aren't paying out the nose, but if it's just cost prohibitive on both ends (the goal is to raise money for new tools, replacement parts and stock; not break even) then I apologize I can't make a tool for you. Kasan fucked around with this message at 04:45 on Feb 5, 2015 |
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Feb 5, 2015 04:35
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Man, with the Canadian Dollar back to being worth jack poo poo these days, my "holy poo poo, what a deal!" reaction was over in milliseconds. What is the purpose of these, are they a hardy tool for the anvil?
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Feb 5, 2015 07:04
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That thing is bad rear end, nice work. IDK how a bolt gets completely stuck/notcomingthefuckout in a brand new insert. It was fine all day until I loaded the last frame I was running for the night and it decided to thread all but 1/8" from tightening down..........but I won. 
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Feb 5, 2015 07:29
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Kasan posted:I hope this isn't taboo for diy/hobbies but: I thought this post was going in a totally different direction... I'd consider one but I suspect sending one transatlantic might be a little pricey.
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Feb 5, 2015 09:48
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Rime posted:Man, with the Canadian Dollar back to being worth jack poo poo these days, my "holy poo poo, what a deal!" reaction was over in milliseconds. Yes, is used for hammering out radiuses or domes in sheet metal (or any metal really). That particular one is going to be used to make elbows and part of gauntlets for reenactment armor. No pansy plaster of paris or foam here mister. I'll probably use it to make spoons to now that I think about it. Maybe some copper bowls.
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Feb 5, 2015 23:47
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Lemme know what shipping to Vancouver would be, and I'll ask my fellow smiths if we could use it. I'm now having visions of forging some frickin' sweet goblets on one of those.
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Feb 6, 2015 00:27
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Rime posted:Lemme know what shipping to Vancouver would be, and I'll ask my fellow smiths if we could use it. I'm now having visions of forging some frickin' sweet goblets on one of those. Appears to be $40~ in a flat rate box. So adjust prices up by $15 USD and that's close enough in the difference in US domestic shipping in the same flat rate that I can justify eating it. Made two prototypes out of ABS today. One for a conical and one for a football shaped oblong (for wider radii). Monday and Tuesday I'll make them out of steel.
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Feb 6, 2015 02:00
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Fleming College's artist blacksmith certificate program- http://flemingcollege.ca/programs/artist-blacksmith 15 weeks, full-time. I'm gonna be forging stuff 8+ hours a day for the next 3 months Awesome Ambrose. I would love to see what they are teaching you. 15 weeks is going to fly by. And you are going to be tired. I bet you already are. I hope you are getting some power hammer time in! For my latest venture I am trying to start a line of products. I would love to do production work. I am also very tired, and it would be nice to come in and do the same thing every day on occasion. As opposed to constantly switching operations and spending so much time on set up and clean up. And also it is nice to know exactly what I will be forging and how it's going to look. Here are some nearly finished towel racks and a TP holder. All stainless. The parts are attached by tenons.  I will also be taking a hiatus from that to make another very small stair rail. Woohoo! It's for in old Craftsman home in a very nice SF neighborhood.
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Feb 7, 2015 02:09
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They don't have a power hammer, unfortunately. Their blacksmith-specialized tooling is pretty limited beyond the basics; there's an emphasis on "make whatever you need, you're surrounded by potential strikers and you can use as much stock as you want and you don't have to pay for the fuel gas", probably because the funding for nice things seems scarce. Already made myself, aside from a bunch of chisels and punches, a cutoff hardie; me and two other guys knocked three out for ourselves from 1 1/2" carbon steel square bar in, like, an hour and a half, working continuously on each in sequence and popping it back into the forge to heat back up while the next two got worked on. Turns out the breaks in between heats are really nice for catching your breath when you're striking, who knew. I'm gonna make myself a bunch of silversmithing stakes and big repousse punches/liners some time soon when I'm not drowning in coursework.
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Feb 7, 2015 03:39
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