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Some fireworks from halloween
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# ? Jan 6, 2015 04:39 |
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# ? Jun 5, 2024 09:21 |
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Josef K. Sourdust posted:FULLMOON by Darren Almond. He takes 15 min exposures under full moon. The book has about 300+ photos. The book isn't cheap but is very handsome (and large). Check it out here: http://www.taschen.com/pages/en/catalogue/photography/all/03123/facts.darren_almond_fullmoon.htm I like it a lot.
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# ? Jan 9, 2015 23:57 |
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Beginner hobbyist here. First night photograph I'm even halfway content with. Sibeliustalo from afar ISO 100, 250mm, f/8, 8sec The lake is frozen, but the temperature had climbed back up and melted the surface just enough to make it smooth and reflective tohveli fucked around with this message at 22:31 on Jan 11, 2015 |
# ? Jan 11, 2015 21:39 |
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tohveli posted:Beginner hobbyist here. First night photograph I'm even halfway contempt with. I think the word you are looking for is content, because its a very cool picture.
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# ? Jan 11, 2015 22:10 |
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Another beginner hobbyist. The main reason I got myself a DSLR was for night photography. Happy with this one. Cape Kiwanda Long Exposure by sporklift, on Flickr
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# ? Jan 14, 2015 05:35 |
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You're about 10 stops off on your aperture there. Try cranking the iso instead. Or finding a better lit area to photograph. It's nice, but pretty muddy.
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# ? Jan 15, 2015 02:39 |
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Never mind that, the photo is rad. Nice work.
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# ? Jan 15, 2015 03:30 |
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sporklift posted:Another beginner hobbyist. The main reason I got myself a DSLR was for night photography. That landscape is rad. Don't change a thing. (Except maybe boosting the shadows a tiny, tiny bit.) As to why you shouldn't, I might direct to my other post here.
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# ? Jan 15, 2015 03:45 |
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After finally getting around to getting a good shutter release cable (not a beginner-beginner, but a hobbyist who finally got a DSLR awhile back) I've enjoyed futzing with it every so often the last couple of months. What might have been a great beach/lightning shot had I not had the ISO set ridiculously high for some reason 20140908-220151-DSC_3869 by revbleech, on Flickr 20140926-DSC_4304 by revbleech, on Flickr
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# ? Jan 15, 2015 05:24 |
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Whirlwind Jones posted:You're about 10 stops off on your aperture there. Try cranking the iso instead. Or finding a better lit area to photograph. Yeah I was gonna recommend closing the aperture to get a sharper image but the exposure is already 30 seconds long and that's probably the upper limit of the D7000. I like the level of exposure as it is, though.
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# ? Jan 15, 2015 06:18 |
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Whirlwind Jones posted:You're about 10 stops off on your aperture there. Try cranking the iso instead. Or finding a better lit area to photograph. Thank you for your feedback. I am really new to this. So I should have been f11 and iso 1600? Would the noise from the high iso cancel out the sharpness though? Also the only previous long exposures I have done were in the city. I was not really ready for the total darkness out here. I really need to do more than just skim Understanding Exposure but I was just kinda excited to get out and shoot. Oh, another thing that might have effected the muddiness was my extremely lovely tripod and the fact that I don't have a cable or remote to fire with yet so I fired from the camera. This is the original for comparison. VomitOnLino posted:That landscape is rad. Don't change a thing. (Except maybe boosting the shadows a tiny, tiny bit.) Cool. I really cranked the blacks on this post process. I was just messing with the sliders in LR and it just felt like a better image. I need to get over the feeling that post process is somehow cheating don't I?
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# ? Jan 15, 2015 19:31 |
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High ISO long exposures don't come out that great. Buy a remote for a dollar sporklift posted:Cool. I really cranked the blacks on this post process. I was just messing with the sliders in LR and it just felt like a better image. I need to get over the feeling that post process is somehow cheating don't I? Post processing is part of photography. It has been since the days when people would spend hours in the darkroom dodging and burning their prints. It's up to you how overboard you want to take it, though. BANME.sh fucked around with this message at 19:55 on Jan 15, 2015 |
# ? Jan 15, 2015 19:42 |
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BANME.sh posted:Buy a remote for a dollar I bought one of those but it was DOA. Just haven't gotten around to getting another.
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# ? Jan 15, 2015 20:04 |
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You have to put your camera in remote shutter release mode for it to work. Don't mean to insult you but that had me thinking the remote was broken when I was a beginner too. Also I found that other bright lights in a room can overpower the IR remote and the camera won't pick it up. I had to experiment quite a bit.
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# ? Jan 15, 2015 20:21 |
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I have a $20 micro-USB cable release that works fantastic with my d7k. Just got it from a local brick and mortar.
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# ? Jan 16, 2015 02:37 |
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I've been taking pictures of Comet Lovejoy the last couple of weeks. Most of it's been high-power telephoto shots that aren't particularly good, but I did manage to get a really nice widefield shot of it last night: Comet Lovejoy and the Taurus Dust Complex by venusian-weasel, on Flickr It's 45 30-second exposures stacked together to bring out some of the faint detail, like the comet's tail and nebula. On the flipside, the stacking process also makes the really faint stars appear brighter than they really are, so using some Photoshop tricks I was able to reduce the brightness of the fainter stars a bit to make the brighter stars stand out a little better.
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# ? Jan 18, 2015 04:10 |
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I finally got around to try some long exposures down town, I want to do more but its too cold for the camera. Albany at Night by Shrieking Muppet, on Flickr Albany at Night by Shrieking Muppet, on Flickr Albany at Night by Shrieking Muppet, on Flickr I've also been toying around with Stuff under black light, need to find some compounds that are colors other than blue. Have a Drink by Shrieking Muppet, on Flickr
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# ? Jan 18, 2015 19:27 |
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I'm pretty new to this whole taking pictures thing. Went out to DC in last night in the cold because I'm dumb. Layered a couple of exposures on these two to get the result. Hopefully they don't look too awful. IMG_3985 by jetaylordotnet, on Flickr IMG_4014 by jetaylordotnet, on Flickr This one is just one exposure since it's pretty poorly lit at night. Laughed at the people there trying to get selfies on their iPhones and complaining about not being able to see anything. IMG_4003 by jetaylordotnet, on Flickr I'd like to go back there and get a few more shots, but drat it's cold.
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# ? Jan 18, 2015 19:33 |
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Ezekiel_980 posted:I've also been toying around with Stuff under black light, need to find some compounds that are colors other than blue. Open up some hilighters and squeeze out the center thing with all the hilighter ink into some water. Under black light it will glow the color of the hilighter.
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# ? Jan 19, 2015 02:32 |
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BANME.sh posted:You have to put your camera in remote shutter release mode for it to work. Don't mean to insult you but that had me thinking the remote was broken when I was a beginner too. whiskey and beef by sporklift, on Flickr
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# ? Jan 19, 2015 07:16 |
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Venusian Weasel posted:I've been taking pictures of Comet Lovejoy the last couple of weeks. Most of it's been high-power telephoto shots that aren't particularly good, but I did manage to get a really nice widefield shot of it last night: This is fantastic, great work! Did you still use your regular GEM, or just a regular tripod? Edit: nevermind, found your explanation in the astro thread. Awesome! (for those curious, he used a GEM) polyfractal fucked around with this message at 19:48 on Jan 19, 2015 |
# ? Jan 19, 2015 19:46 |
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Martin Luther King, Jr. Memorial by jetaylordotnet, on Flickr
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# ? Jan 19, 2015 23:18 |
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# ? Jan 22, 2015 08:54 |
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How do you decide how long to expose for in your shots? I want to try long exposures downtown again but on my pentax and i'm clueless of what to set f-stops and shutter for on Portra 400 (if that is the best choice surrounded by lights)
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# ? Jan 24, 2015 22:45 |
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I struggled with the same thing for a while but I found that exposing for EV3 (average streetlights) most of the time seems to give good results. If you have an iPhone get the Expositure app - it'll let you choose an EV to shoot for, and then tell you the shutter speed to use based on any combo of fstop and ISO. Then of course correct for reciprocity. Another iPhone app called "reciprocity timer" has a library of corrections for every film type.
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# ? Jan 25, 2015 02:58 |
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# ? Jan 25, 2015 20:04 |
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Ezekiel_980 posted:How do you decide how long to expose for in your shots? I want to try long exposures downtown again but on my pentax and i'm clueless of what to set f-stops and shutter for on Portra 400 (if that is the best choice surrounded by lights) I use an incident meter and a reciprocity chart for Portra 400. If it's super dark I'll just go for f/22 at 20 minutes, which is how those two were exposed.
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# ? Jan 25, 2015 20:36 |
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Lightning is so much fun to take photos of.
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# ? Jan 27, 2015 06:53 |
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7-365 Stars and Palm Trees (Cocle, Panama) by esa_foto, on Flickr
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# ? Jan 27, 2015 19:46 |
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One Hour Color by kgao1989, on Flickr Pretty happy with how this turned out. Maybe I could have altered the composition here or there but overall it was okay.
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# ? Jan 31, 2015 05:45 |
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Some Portra 400 at New Years, with the trademark GW690 long exposure streaks Melbourne 2014-15 by mr_student, on Flickr Melbourne 2014-15 by mr_student, on Flickr
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# ? Jan 31, 2015 12:08 |
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Spedman posted:trademark GW690 long exposure streaks I've never experienced this, what do you mean?
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# ? Feb 1, 2015 00:06 |
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BANME.sh posted:I've never experienced this, what do you mean? From another GW690 owner: In Fuji's cheap-out T-Mode the shutter only closes when advancing the film. Hence moving the film causes bright light sources to make these kind of streaks. The solution is obviously to use your hand or lens-cap before you wind on. I've verified this with my GW690 II and asked Fuji -- it is apparently expected behavior.
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# ? Feb 1, 2015 00:18 |
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Helmacron posted:
That's awesome!
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# ? Feb 1, 2015 01:26 |
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VomitOnLino posted:From another GW690 owner: In Fuji's cheap-out T-Mode the shutter only closes when advancing the film. Bingo! I was a little bit too "relaxed" at that point of the night to give a poo poo about covering the lens before winding on.
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# ? Feb 1, 2015 07:17 |
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Spedman posted:Bingo! I was a little bit too "relaxed" at that point of the night to give a poo poo about covering the lens before winding on. Yeah, I've done the same. And pretty much everything about that GW690's shutter says cheap to me. From the sound to how it looks and that T mode. That said, the camera was original made for 120 short rolls (containing 4 shots on 6x9) to document bus tours throughout Japan. So there's that... Re: Streaks: It's not a super shot, but it's interesting that I managed to wind on fast enough to catch the fluorescents' strobing pattern.
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# ? Feb 2, 2015 02:32 |
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The shutter doesn't feel top quality at all, compared to the Compur-3 shutter I've got on my 8x10 it feels cheap. But that glass is oh-so-lovely.
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# ? Feb 2, 2015 05:03 |
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Two unedited self portraits from Stinson Beach. My biggest issue with night photography is focusing. Are there any tricks? I have an electronic focus ring so understanding what will be in focus is a challenge. My current technique is to focus way close in, and then back out a little bit. Clearly, I have some room for improvement.
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# ? Feb 4, 2015 04:41 |
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accipter posted:My biggest issue with night photography is focusing. Are there any tricks? I have an electronic focus ring so understanding what will be in focus is a challenge. My current technique is to focus way close in, and then back out a little bit. Clearly, I have some room for improvement. Set your focus to infinity.
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# ? Feb 4, 2015 04:51 |
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# ? Jun 5, 2024 09:21 |
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RangerScum posted:Set your focus to infinity. And know where it is before you're out at night. Because it's rather difficult when everything in the viewfinder is completely black. (a live view mode might save you but depending how complete the darkness is that might not be enough either)
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# ? Feb 4, 2015 23:45 |