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Just a quick question... Was your FD white? I saw a white FD in the Caymans back in 2008 or 2009.
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Jan 31, 2015 18:58
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Black IIRC.
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Jan 31, 2015 18:59
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I have a carbtune I can flat rate ship for peeps to borrow. Shouldn't be needing it anytime soon.
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Jan 31, 2015 19:18
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FD was black, yes. Apparently, there's a BMW motorcycle carb sync thing floating around Dad's toolbox. It's only got two ports, but I figure I can master-slave it.
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Jan 31, 2015 20:21
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You can use it as is, you sync in pairs first, then the two pairs to each other.
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Feb 1, 2015 00:39
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Phone posted:Just a quick question... Was your FD white? I saw a white FD in the Caymans back in 2008 or 2009. Ironblock wasn't on the island in 2008-2009. Also there are a few FDs floating around. At least 2-3. Also I can confirm the Datsun exists. I was by his parent's ranch around New Year and got to touch it. I'd post pictures but it'd likely spoiler the story 
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Feb 1, 2015 01:48
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So happy to see more updates on the Datsun. I'm eager to see how you get those carbs synced up. Multi-carb setups always seemed a bit daunting to me.
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Feb 1, 2015 06:16
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mafoose posted:You can use it as is, you sync in pairs first, then the two pairs to each other. Wouldn't it be better to sync 1 to 2, then 3 to 2, then 4 to 3?
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Feb 1, 2015 16:14
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Hello again, AI. I wasn't sure how to respond to comments about how syncing the carbs was going to work, because I didn't want to spoil the story.  We paused in July of 2014, and I've had a tough time figuring out the chronological order of the story, so bear with me. I switched phones, countries, daily drivers, and all sorts of other poo poo. I've been going through all my pictures and trying to rebuild a single, consolidated library. As an interesting side note, I came across a picture of the exact moment I knew in my soul that I would be quitting my job in the Cayman Islands.  For whatever reason, "I should shave my head" was a completely logical consequence of "having hair is too stressful".  In hindsight, I can more or less assure you fine folks that my lush, wavy locks were not at fault. What doesn't kill you Somewhere between getting the body on the frame, the engine in the body, and the car on the ground, I started to grievously underestimate all the other tasks between that checkpoint and "I can drive this car". By far, the hardest part of working on one of these cars is always finding the parts. American car people are lucky. You can go to your choice of a dozen aftermarket suppliers, and get the weird "one year only" shift knob that your Reliant K or whatever the gently caress used, and it costs $25. But on a Datsun? Forget about it. So you develop this weird sixth sense about parts, and you scan eBay for weird, misspelled poo poo, "just listed" auctions, that kind of thing. I ended up winning a lot of 3 Nissan speedometer cables from the approximate year range of my car, based only on a partial match to the old parts number - their only distinguishing feature. They were rescued from some forgotten Midwestern dealership that was finally closing down and shuffling off its inventory. I have to assume that I was on the last chopper out of Saigon, because they also threw in a bunch of other stuff I didn't order (marked "FREE"), like a distributor cap, a condenser, and some Chick tracts  Once I got them, it became apparent that these were NOS parts, because there was an honest-to-goodness asbestos sheath on one of the cables.  I waffled on whether or not I should leave it on, because it was NOS, and some other stupid reasons, and a kind friend eventually talked me out of it. For $18, it wasn't a bad haul, considering what the new ones go for. None of the cables was short enough for the tach, so I ended up reusing the one that came with the car.  For some reason I'll never understand, paying $100 for a shift knob makes perfect sense to me, but $85 for a very useful cable feels like highway robbery. This is probably tangentially related to why I never have any money One of the weirder things was the need to fit both the speedo and tach cables through little accordion grommets that go through the firewall. The ends of the cables are crimped, and there's no way to fit either end through the tiny holes. I ended up slicing the grommets with a razor blade, and aligning the cut at a 6 o'clock position. I then zip tied the small end, and cut the zip tie down to nothing.  It really is the best of both worlds. I do something insane and spend too much money: "I LOVE THIS CAR DON'T JUDGE ME". I do some really grungy Jerry-rigging: "Hey, it's a Datsun, after all" Anyways. In which I am not an electrician The fuse box apparently has a cover, which I have never seen on anybody's Roadster, ever. I went ahead and cleaned it up, since the only markings on the block are some etched letters that correspond to the Engrish translation key in the FSM.   I had a slightly non-trivial time finding old-style Buss fuses, for what it's worth. Finally, I was able to clean out an older hardware store near me, but I took the last they had for 15A, 20A, and 25A. I also bought an ancient inline 30A fuse to use on the supply out of the GM alternator. I'm going to assume that my 7000rpm redline is higher than anything that alt would have come on, and since that same wire goes directly into the ammeter before going to the rest of the shared + on the harness, I figured it's cheap insurance.     I snuck the alternator wiring into some of the retaining clips on the body, and went to town soldering in the ignition system.  The 300ZX (Z31) solid state ignition coil was one of the first mods I ever finished for the car, back before the body went to paint. It was a leftover from when I was converting all my 280ZX Turbos to use them, and I figure it's nice to keep something "in family" once in a while.  I hooked up my battery, and saw my first ever signs of life!   Also, I had no idea that there was such a divide about soldering in automotive applications. Apparently, there are people who are convinced it's really bad, and should never ever be done? My preferred method has always been to strip until I get clean wire, twist, crimp hard enough that the connection can't come free, heat the joint until it will flow standard rosin-core solder, and then fill enough solder between the strands and the crimp to form a solid "piece". Then, I finish it off with some heat-shrink tubing. That said, all of my electrical work before cars was PCs, circuit boards, and home electronics. If someone really thinks I should just be using crimp connectors, I'd love to hear why. Stupid pun about fans and/or cooling One of the many parts you just can't get for these cars anymore is the fan clutch. Nissan discontinued it in the late '80s, because the design was bad and it would constantly be stuck on full. The service bulletin replaced the stock 7-blade fan and clutch with a 4-blade fan and a nylon spacer.  I opted to not participate in the bullshit express, and so I decided to pair my aluminum radiator with a Flex-a-lite fan from JEGS or Summit or somebody. It fit with room to spare, and didn't end up looking all that far off of factory.  I'm not a huge fan (HAHA GET IT) of the framing stock crap that they included to match it up to the factory mount holes, and will probably engineer a better solution to that. One of the concessions I realized I would have to make as time wore on was that getting it DONE was more important than getting it RIGHT. This car is probably going to be good for at least another 45 years, and in that time, I'll have plenty of weekends to gently caress around with "oh boo hoo I don't like how my radiator fan is mounted". In other words, the more whinging I do about standards, the longer it will take to do awesome Datsun burnouts. As long as I don't cut corners in some irreversible way, I decided to prioritize a running, driving car. To that end, I mutilated my corroded washer tank bracket by painting it black (should be zinc plated), and hiding the fan temperature control switch in the empty space behind where the tank goes. This is another thing that can be improved later on.    Excited to try out my new cooling system, and spurred on by the success of the electrical system (I could make the fan work!), I decided that it was finally time to fill the car with coolant.  Boy did that go well. It turns out that one of the many mystery pieces that I couldn't quite remember the origin of was the block draincock, and its rightful hole had been full of a cleverly disguised (painted over) wad of tape. It didn't take long for most of the coolant to piss itself out onto the ground. In my defense, before I cleaned it up, the draincock was covered in about an inch of road grime, and it was yet another formless hunk of engine with no vivid history.  This is why I don't work on airplanes, I guess. Making it count Given that I had unacceptable clearance issues with the position of the #4 carburetor arm, and the brake master cylinder, I determined that I would have to go back to the Tilton, somehow. It's not very visible in the picture below, but part of the problem had been that the Tilton's stroke was so short, the reservoir needed to mount so close to the firewall that it collided with the top mounting stud. I decided that I would have to cut it, somehow. I also realized that my problem of "hurr, the stainless line comes in at the wrong angle" was trivially easy to solve with the right parts. McMaster Carr saved the day, yet again, by providing me with some flare banjo fittings, and a fem-fem adapter to get it into the line.  That was (mostly) solved, then. While I was doing brake and electrical stuff, I threw the junction block back in.  I also discovered that I really should have taken all of the labels off the lines before the adhesive became superglue. Live and learn. Because the mountain was there As night fell, I test fit the carburetors in conjunction with the brake master.   Not bad. Then, because the electrical was newly hooked up, I decided to test the lights.   This was a very gratifying moment for me - it was the first time since taking ownership of that car that I had ever been able to touch one of the controls and see a response - I had never started it, or even connected a battery. It was, however, cut short when I noticed that the headlights were pretty dim and their fuse was smoking.  But at least it looked and acted a lot more like a car. That's all for tonight! I have the next set of pictures queued, and just need to find more time to write the backstory. I'm thinking I might switch to shorter updates, with the goal of making them more frequently. I have to get you all caught up, because right now, I'm holding out on you, and it hurts. It hurts me, AI. 
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Feb 12, 2015 10:01
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 I can't wait to hear it come to life!
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Feb 12, 2015 11:24
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ironblock posted:
I like this part. I think about my project stranded in another state every week if not every day, and I'm especially looking forward to this part. Well, the first part, not the smoking fuse part.
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Feb 12, 2015 16:18
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LIIIIIFE! Super excited for updates in this thread. Yay for working lights, boo for smoking fuses.
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Feb 12, 2015 16:50
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I actually have an oddball electrical question - maybe someone can answer. Is it possible to use a PWM controller on LED bulbs that have a chassis ground? Or does it require an isolated ground wire? Even in the best possible circumstances, the bulbs used for the dashboard lights are pretty dim. Just a function of the type of bulbs and the shrouding in the gauges, I guess. I'm trying to figure out if I can replace them with LED bulbs, and the potentiometer with a PWM controller. My AW11 MR2 had LED lights, and they were pretty nice - but not dimmable since the PO hadn't done anything to the potentiometer, and I sure wasn't going to.
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Feb 12, 2015 19:24
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Man, I'm excited to see more progress on this car. It rules so loving hard. Won't you switch on the ground in order to turn an LED light on and off anyway? The bulb ground won't be the same one as the vehicle ground, right? e: I assume you'd have the + and - of the LED into the PWM controller and the PWM controller is grounded to chassis ground. The dimming is done with the differential between the chassis ground and the bulb ground, right? Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 19:44 on Feb 12, 2015 |
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Feb 12, 2015 19:40
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That's what I'm trying to figure out. These cars us a BA9S bulb, which grounds through the socket.  They're about as bright as Christmas tree lights. I figure the ideal situation would be to attach the negative on the PWM controller to chassis ground, and the positive to the bulbs. That's more or less how the factory setup works, with the only difference being that the potentiometer only handles switched +. That is to say, all the bulbs share a common + wire out of the potentiometer, and have no discrete grounding. (I think. I'm starting to second guess myself, but I'm pretty sure.)
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Feb 12, 2015 21:03
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Depends entirely on whether the PWM controller is a high-side switch type or a low-side switch type. High side has a voltage output that goes to a bulb to ground, low side you connect one side of the bulb to 12V and the other to your controller. It's trivial to design one either way, but costs about $1.25 more in hardware to do it the high-side way and involves 3 or 4 more parts soldered to the board so in most cases an EE will choose ground side switching/low side switching if given the choice. Also, soldering vs crimping is a religious debate, much like sports, politics, and whether you should crack an egg on the large or the small end. I personally prefer crimping, but as long as you are using sealant lined heatshrink OR this is a fair weather only car, it doesn't matter anywhere near as much. If you intend to drive this thing in the rain, ever, all regular non-lined heatshrink will do is draw water in via capillary action and let it fester there forever since it can't evaporate. Here is an excellent article on production automotive vs professional autosport/race style wiring: https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html And here's a great example of why you want to seal your wiring harness splices if they will see water:  That's high quality wire with very little space between the conductors and the insulation, and the pile is just the salt residue. So that wire probably had around half a teaspoon of water flow through it over the course of only 24 hours.
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Feb 12, 2015 21:29
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kastein posted:Here is an excellent article on production automotive vs professional autosport/race style wiring: https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html Fantastic link. I am very familiar with military/aerospace crimping and that taught me some.
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Feb 13, 2015 06:33
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Christ, I just spent the whole day reading about circuit design and race car wiring instead of writing reStructuredText, like I was supposed to. That article was great. I think I'm going to be okay, based on what I've read, since I flowed enough solder into the joints to make them watertight, and the heat-shrink is pretty good stuff. I'll check on whether or not it's lined, but I'm reasonably sure it is. In any case, the PWM controller I got was real cheap, and it turns out to have been switched ground. No big loss. Kastein, do you have any pointers for me as far as where I could get a "high side" PWM controller? I found some circuit diagrams, and I'd be willing to try and make my own (with associated trip report, of course), but I would pretty much be winging it. I feel like I don't know the lingo well enough to search effectively for what I want. This is one of those weird hairball projects that I feel obligated to do, but I couldn't explain why.
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Feb 13, 2015 10:22
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Holy poo poo, I've been doing it wrong all these years! If your roadster is similar to the Z cars' wiring, you should be able to segregate the dash lighting bits fairly easily, then wiring them to the pwm controller should be cake.
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Feb 13, 2015 13:30
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ironblock posted:Christ, I just spent the whole day reading about circuit design and race car wiring instead of writing reStructuredText, like I was supposed to. I'm not sure where you can get one, since I just design the stuff (we are very weight limited, therefore everything is as tightly packed and integrated as possible, not much off the shelf hardware except the flight critical avionics) - it would be trivial to build one though. This circuit is good for up to roughly 4 amps as long as you size your PCB traces appropriately:  Feed the gate of the MGSF1N02LT1 your PWM signal at logic levels, the wire connected to Q4 and R5 your 12V input power, and connect the lights to the wire from the right end of R14. You can eliminate R14 and U4 if you don't need current draw monitoring - if you do, use a resistor sized to give 25mV of voltage drop at full output current, for instance I used a Rohm UCR10EVHFSR050 (50 milliohm) to get full scale at 500mA draw. The INA199A3DCK converts the millivolt level current sense resistor voltage drop to a 0-5V analog output to feed to a microcontroller ADC or PWM feedback loop. You can probably rip D4, U4, and R14 out and then feed it with either a simple microcontroller PWM (if you want to be fancy and set up a calibration curve so that your LED dimmer matches the rest of the dash bulb brightness over the whole range) or a really really simple one built with an LM556 dual timer and a handful of resistors and capacitors. This is just the one I happened to find first in my design files, I needed to monitor current draw and make that particular load flash faster as well as turning on a dash dummy light to warn of bulb failure and comply with FMVSS requirements. You can also substitute any reasonably specced P-channel MOSFET for the FDC365P and any reasonable (can be really weak logic level, this one doesn't handle much if any current) N-channel MOSFET such as the Supertex VN0300L for the MGSF1N02LT1 if you don't feel like soldering microscopic surface mount parts. Or buy a Sanken SI5154 high side switch and drive it exactly the same way, if you really feel like being lazy. That part's obsolete, but it's probably still in stock somewhere and it'll never blow out. kastein fucked around with this message at 13:56 on Feb 13, 2015 |
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Feb 13, 2015 13:51
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Crimps have only failed me when I crimped them wrong, but I did have my first solder joint failure on a stereo install in my convertible this year. The wire where I soldered it dangled in space and basically vibrated with the bouncing of the car, so it eventually fatigue cracked and the only thing holding it together was the heat shrink. Might not have used enough solder but either way, I've never had a crimp failure if it survives the tug test immediately after crimping.
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Feb 13, 2015 18:33
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Crimping is generally way better than solder especially if there is any chance of shear stress on the solder. Solder creeps at basically any temperature and has relatively low shear strength. If you solder something just make sure there is plenty of strain relief.
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Feb 13, 2015 18:35
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Ever since kastein linked those nifty heatshrink crimps I've never bought anything else. My drat heat gun broke though 
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Feb 13, 2015 21:05
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  I looked at every other steering wheel ever, but the appeal of having one that matched the shift knob and was a competition repro (well, they both are) was just too juicy to pass up. Now I just have to wait for it to get here from Glorious Nippon. Both items, for reference:  
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Feb 17, 2015 23:16
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ironblock posted:
Man, those are pretty. I really like that wheel.
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Feb 18, 2015 04:36
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The thing I ultimately realized was that the gray in the center of the horn pad is the same as the powdercoat on the dash. I think once I actually see it in the car, I'll be shocked that I ever considered anything else. And I also did some back of the envelope math... compared to refurbing the stock wheel, this wasn't bad at all.
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Feb 18, 2015 07:58
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Now I don't feel as bad about considering a horribly expensive steering wheel for the E21 despite the one I have being the "fancy" sport steering wheel. Haven't bought one yet but I'm watching every forum I can think of as well as eBay and Craigslist/kijiji/etc internationally.
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Feb 18, 2015 13:06
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Isn't this more expensive than a classic Nardi steering wheel ?
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Feb 18, 2015 21:09
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Sh4 posted:Isn't this more expensive than a classic Nardi steering wheel ? Yeah, but then you get in and panic every time because you think you're driving a Nardi.
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Feb 18, 2015 21:12
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Sh4 posted:Isn't this more expensive than a classic Nardi steering wheel ? Yes. But the Nardi wheel doesn't say "Datsun" on it, and it's not a reproduction of a Nissan Competition part. I think the satisfaction I'll get from idly fingering the raised lettering on the horn pad when stopped at a light is more than worth the price differential. In some ways, it's also part of the semi-sleeper aesthetic. Having a Grant GT or a Nardi Classic or a Momo Prototipo screams "I HAVE BEEN MODIFIED" to me. I figure the Datsun Comp wheel is going to go unnoticed by the average Joe, and even Datsun die-hards are going to have a hard time placing it. I also figure that the set of RT-615Ks cost me about $350 shipped, and mounting and balancing was another $70 or so. The wheel and shift knob together were about $630, shipped. So, less than two sets of tires, and they'll theoretically last the lifetime of the car. I figure since you interact with the steering wheel and shift knob more than any other control surface (except maybe the pedal pads, which are also new!), they should be something you like interacting with.
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Feb 18, 2015 21:29
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Just asking because I wouldn't feel confident spending that much on a replica (I've seen a price tag of 500$ after a quick search) and it seems you can find original ones for that price ? edit: nevermind, seems those are quite rare and you can only find them in japan for that price, I thought the faux stitched leather on the horn was only on the replica but it seems the original wheel is like that as well Sh4 fucked around with this message at 21:45 on Feb 18, 2015 |
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Feb 18, 2015 21:40
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If it was anybody but Kameari, I would be hesitant. They make lots of other cool toys, and most of them are $$$$. http://www.kameariusa.com/datsun-l6/ And yeah, "faux stitched leather" is a hallmark of Datsun design!
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Feb 19, 2015 01:04
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This thread either wouldn't exist or wouldn't be nearly as interesting if everything was being done in the most sensible manner.
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Feb 19, 2015 01:08
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One step forward... With the daystar once again illuminating the world around me, it was pretty clear that the first task was to figure out what was causing the lighting fuse to get so drat hot. When I realized that my H4 bulbs were suspiciously dim, I thought I'd check the connections, and make sure everything was nice and tight.  The culprit was discovered when the ancient connector for the driver-side bulb disintegrated in my hand. Luckily, new sockets are cheap on Amazon, and I stuck one on.   There was a little bit of neck sweat during this process, since at best, the wiring diagrams for these cars are inaccurate and bad. Mine is inaccurate, bad, and water damaged. I made some educated guesses, and it resolved my problem. Somehow, I didn't take any pictures of the headlights being on. "Spare no expense!" On one of my many parts runs to the flatlands of sfbay, I ran across an Interstate Batteries store. I've used (and liked) their batteries in a number of different places, but never visited a physical retail location, so I thought "Why not, I'll gently caress around in here for a few minutes". Every place I've ever looked for a Group 53 battery has come up with nothing. It's an extremely uncommon size, and as far as I know, the Corvair is the only other slightly popular car that used one. Panasonic in Japan still makes them, but you need a distributor license or some crap like that. One of the vendors has one, and he gleefully offered to sell me one, but god drat it, I'm not paying vendor markup for a loving car battery! So I trotted out the same song and dance with the Interstate people, who were very helpful, and ultimately did the same thing I've come to expect from any retail auto parts store I'm in: "I don't think we... I... Do you, uh... want to come look around in the back?" The answer is always yes. So I wandered through their mini battery warehouse, escorted by one of the staff. I think this might have been the most interesting thing that had ever happened in that store, because eventually she got in the swing of it too. I finally said "what's the longest, skinniest battery you have?", and she decided that it ought to be a 29NF-VFD. We went back and checked the book, and sure enough, it was only half an inch wider than the 53. So I gave away my Optima to a friend and bought the Interstate.    Also, tangentially related: I learned that Interstate's mission statement is "To glorify God and enrich lives as we deliver the most trustworthy source of power to the world.". http://corporate.interstatebatteries.com/purpose_values/ I have zero problem with that - it just caught me by surprise. They seem like good people. "Spend money? But it's a Datsun!" I like to joke that "the best work that was done on this car wasn't done by me", and in large part, that's true. I'm not an enormously skilled fabricator, I don't have any machine tools, and I have no formal engineering training (I went to art school, actually). But sometimes the chips are down, and you need what you need. I didn't have a new insulator for the window edge, so I used 10 mil plumbing tape:  I didn't have a way to mount the cable bracket, so I cut an adaptor plate that slips over the center manifold studs in the head:   I needed to be able to interface with my transmission, so I got a pneumatic cutoff (why did I wait so long? It's amazing!  ) and did the thing:    I came back with a rasp and some needle files and cleaned up the edge, but I don't seem to have pictures of that. But I finally have access to the shifter! Also, I always want to make pretentious jokes about Craftsman (more like Crapsman  ) but I've never managed to break one of their tools. This cutoff is pretty amazing.Ironblock Goes Back to Chemistry Class I figured that since my seat rails were pretty badly rusted, I'd try some electrolytic rust removal and see how that went. The first attempt was with some lovely galv pipe I had lying around (technically, it's my breaker bar extend-o-matic), and that didn't work worth a drat  Eventually, I switched to some steel stock I had left over from another project, and that gave me the delicious rust soup I knew I deserved.  The end results weren't bad, either.   Of course, the studs that protrude under the floor pan (seriously, what the gently caress, Datsun) are all rusted through, and the pot metal the rails are made of will bend long before traditional stud extraction methods can be applied. No, I'm afraid it's the long drill train to sadness town, times eight. Misc At some point, I put the front bumper on, mostly just so it could get out of the way.  Magnificent.  Then, I spent some time cleaning up the workspace and consolidating parts. Something that nobody tells you about rebuilding a car is that you're going to spend a lot of hours just cleaning your bench off so that you can use it again.   Down to one shelf unit full of (mostly) Roadster parts. I have about ten times as many 280ZX parts, unfortunately.  And one last sneak preview Current time in story is now 22 December, 2014. We're getting to the really good stuff. 
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Feb 19, 2015 10:08
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I have to say this build is awesome and I quite like your presentation style.
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Feb 19, 2015 11:49
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ironblock posted:Magnificent. Magnificent indeed. I wish I had documented all my projects this well.
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Feb 19, 2015 12:36
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Interstate's mission statement is actually why I quit using them. I have no issues with religion, but I don't think religion and business should be mixed. Don't know if you made it to the CEO's page, but he's a recovering alcoholic. I have a hell of a lot of respect for being able to beat addiction, particularly since I've been battling alcoholism for over 10 years. And if you think a deity was major help, more power to you, I just don't agree with it. In general, I don't agree with the religious aspect of Interstate's mission statement (just like I don't agree with Hobby Lobby). Interstate is actually made by Johnson Controls, it's one of their best lines. That said, Kirkland (Costco) batteries are supposedly just as good, and definitely also made by Johnson, at a significantly lower price. You probably wouldn't have been able to find the battery you needed anywhere except a distributor though.
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Feb 19, 2015 12:38
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ironblock posted:And one last sneak preview Ah gently caress, why did I have to marathon read this thread today of all days, talk about blue balls.
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Feb 19, 2015 14:45
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Amen - HOURS and HOURS cleaning off the workbench, just so you can use it again. Preach on!
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Feb 19, 2015 15:23
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some texas redneck posted:Interstate's mission statement is actually why I quit using them. Weird. Pumped to see more updates on the Datsun.
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Feb 19, 2015 17:40
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