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The lower Photo is a Tamiya connector with the correct pins (male pins in female plastic). I don't recognise the upper one.
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Feb 2, 2015 19:54
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That's what's confusing me. I thought the top one was your standard Tamiya male, it comes out of the charger and looks like you connect it to your battery to charge it, but the pins are throwing me off.
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Feb 2, 2015 20:00
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I'd just solder on a new connector that works. Or, if you don't want to solder, you could even just do butt connectors or wire nuts or something with your deans adapter.
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Feb 2, 2015 20:12
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powderific posted:butt connectors Oh, holy poo poo, I forgot about those! I think we have a ton of extra ones in the shop at work, I could probably grab a pair and use those. I'll give that a shot tomorrow, thanks for the suggestion.
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Feb 2, 2015 20:18
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Question about lipo and storage. Let's say I charged & balanced up my batteries, ran it for about 5-10 minutes and probably won't run for a few days. Should I take any precautions if I am not going to run it again for a few days/week?
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Feb 2, 2015 20:57
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slidebite posted:Please let me know what that kit is like. They have that one in stock at the hobby shop where I got the XL for a decent price and I was pretty darn tempted. Will do, may be a few weeks though due to actually getting the Tamiya kit and then spending time to assemble it.
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Feb 2, 2015 22:01
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That connector isn't for charging the battery, by the way! It's for the option to power that charger off of a 12V battery with the alligator clips included. If you bought a Tamiya-Deans adapter, and have no need for it aside from this, lop the Tamiya end off and strip the ends of what is now a Deans pigtail and put them in the spring terminals on the front 
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Feb 2, 2015 22:23
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slidebite posted:Question about lipo and storage. Most Lipo chargers do Storage mode. I usually do that to my batteries if I am not going to run them for a week or more.
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Feb 2, 2015 22:46
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IOwnCalculus posted:That connector isn't for charging the battery, by the way! It's for the option to power that charger off of a 12V battery with the alligator clips included. OH. Ohhh. Yeah, in that case, I can easily make it work. Thanks for telling me about that plug, for some reason I figured it was the charging one 
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Feb 2, 2015 23:13
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Thank you for answering my questions. This was a huge help! While I'd love the fun of putting a kit together, I think that I'm going to end up going with one of the Axial Power Wagon LiPo combos. The stock stuff will let me enjoy it immediately and then I can buy upgrades here and there. Can I ask what kind of motor and gear combination you're running in your SCX10?
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Feb 3, 2015 15:35
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Riller posted:Thank you for answering my questions. This was a huge help! While I'd love the fun of putting a kit together, I think that I'm going to end up going with one of the Axial Power Wagon LiPo combos. The stock stuff will let me enjoy it immediately and then I can buy upgrades here and there. Can I ask what kind of motor and gear combination you're running in your SCX10? Nice, glad I could help! A while ago, I was bombarding ColonelJohnMatrix with questions about the various Axial kits, and I'm nowhere near as knowledgeable as him, but I'll toss in where I can. One of the nice things about these trucks is how easy it is to swap out motors and gears, so when I'm crawling in the woods, I use a regular Axial 55T motor with 8:56 gearing. It's SLOW. When I want some extra speed, I swap in a Holmes TorqueMaster Expert 27T with a 12T pinion on it, and then it'll spray dirt if I want it to. Takes all of about 12 minutes.
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Feb 3, 2015 16:59
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Great choice Riller and nice advice bisticles. You can't go wrong with any Axial SCX10 kit. The RTRs have great value IMO because the electronics are awesome for trailing. I've used high end sensored brushless systems in my scalers over the years and I find the stock 27t can't be beat. Sure, a high end brushless getup can give you more speed and can be a bit smoother, but it also costs up to 6 times higher than standard setup for just a wee bit better performance on the trail. The brushed setup is also pretty worry free in that it takes a lot of abuse (and water) that a sensored BL setup will crap out on. It's also a lot easier to go hard on a 60 dollar system vs. something costing around 250 and up. Also, I just finished up my vinyl wrap on my mega truck Wraith Spawn!  Hey you painters, I'm ready to finally get an airbrush. Is it possible to get a basic setup for less than 100 dollars?
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Feb 5, 2015 16:00
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ColonelJohnMatrix posted:Hey you painters, I'm ready to finally get an airbrush. Is it possible to get a basic setup for less than 100 dollars? Not one that is good *and* easy to find spares for. A good compressor will cost you 100 on its own, although you can get a cheap tank compressor for 80 or so I think (look for the TC-20T model number, it's a generic Chinese compressor many places sell). A Badger 105 Patriot will spray anything and is a really good standard airbrush for RC painters - but you'll spend 100 or so on that alone. Then you'll still need to spend 20-50 for hose, adapter, cleaning equipment, thinner, etc., and then 5 bux or so each for each bottle of paint. You're in the US so check https://www.dickblick.com for prices and bundles. Just be aware of the old phrases 'you get what you pay for' and 'buy nice or buy twice', which I use quite a lot on Facebook answering people's airbrushing questions
krushgroove fucked around with this message at 16:23 on Feb 5, 2015 |
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Feb 5, 2015 16:19
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ColonelJohnMatrix posted:Hey you painters, I'm ready to finally get an airbrush. Is it possible to get a basic setup for less than 100 dollars? Buy a Grex or Iwata and be done with it, or support a local painter. TinyBoatGuyPaints is in your area (STL iirc?) and is pretty reasonable on prices. Painting your own stuff gets pretty pricy too, even on fairly simple designs. Myself, I gently caress up single color paint jobs so I have a local guy paint my stuff. He's been absolutely killing it lately. https://www.facebook.com/pages/Legit-Lidz/711645978884807
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Feb 5, 2015 16:32
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Thanks for the advice guys. I think I'll do the "buy once, get it right" thing this time around. Yeah, I have been paying the good guys to do my paint jobs on certain vehicles for a long time. I don't even want to know what I've paid people all these years, not that it wasn't worth it. The last couple years I've been pretty good at rattle canning but I'm at the point where I need to get more advanced. A buddy of mine let me use his brush for a few items last year and I had a blast with it and the stuff turned out pretty good. I also have access to a vinyl plotter and know illustrator so i can make my own masks. I figure I probably should just pony up and get the equipment finally. I'm looking around on that site you linked krush and see a bunch of stuff. Is there a good bundle for around 250-300 that you'd recommend I go with?
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Feb 5, 2015 16:46
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ColonelJohnMatrix posted:I'm looking around on that site you linked krush and see a bunch of stuff. Is there a good bundle for around 250-300 that you'd recommend I go with? Definitely the $100 Badger 105 Patriot. It's super versatile and will spray RC paints unthinned right out of the bottle. It can do fogging/shading if you want, for fine detail there are several models with smaller needle sizes to choose from when you're ready. For the compressor, I can highly recommend the Sparmax TC620 but it's 250 on its own so would suggest this smaller Sparmax one: http://www.dickblick.com/products/sparmax-ac27-airstream-compressor/ No tank so it will turn on every time you press the trigger, but that is fine. I prefer a tank because I'm in a terraced townhouse. Sparmax make iwata compressors so they're the same spec but way cheaper. The cheapest Badger compressor is the same price and looks to be about the same spec, but you'll need to get a $8 or so hose (the Sparmax one I linked comes with a hose).
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Feb 5, 2015 16:56
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Don't forget that you will also need a mask to filter the fumes from yourself and most likely a painting booth (for safety). There are some dudes in this thread that could help with the specifics.
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Feb 5, 2015 16:58
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A good 3M mask is a necessity, and depending where you're painting a spray booth is very helpful. Also a warm place to paint is necessary, because you need the painting surface and space you're painting in should be 70 degrees F or higher (21 C or so). I help teach airbrushing classes and do a monthly RC painting article series for a major UK RC magazine so feel free to ask away in this thread
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Feb 5, 2015 17:04
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krushgroove, what filter rating is recommended for masks? I found these two and I think it was the P100 that I have seen recommended as the P95 doesn't cut it for certain paints and chemicals you may be working with. P95 Particulate Filter -At least 95% filter efficient when tested with ~0.3 μm DOP (Dioctyl Phthalate) aerosol. P100 Particulate Filter -At least 99.97% filter efficient when tested with ~0.3 μm DOP (Dioctyl Phthalate) aerosol.
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Feb 5, 2015 17:09
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Thanks for the help guys. I've got those recommended parts written down and on my "to do" list. I'm sure I will have questions!
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Feb 5, 2015 17:15
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Kibner posted:krushgroove, what filter rating is recommended for masks? I found these two and I think it was the P100 that I have seen recommended as the P95 doesn't cut it for certain paints and chemicals you may be working with. TBH not familiar with that rating system, all I did was buy a reasonably priced 3M mask from an auto paint supply store and it's been really good for me. I have this one: http://www.3mdirect.co.uk/06941-3m-maintenance-free-reusable-respirator-1-respirator-1.html just look up '3M 06941' on ebay or Amazon and that's the ticket. Properly fitted I can wear it for hours and it has a good seal, doesn't fog up my glasses and you can get replacement filters even though it's meant to be disposable. I spray indoors only so I need a mask. When I haven't been I get blue boogers... I do demonstrations and wargaming shows as well, and don't use a mask then (but I do use a portable spray booth) because the air is constantly circulating and it's a huge open space.
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Feb 5, 2015 17:47
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I managed to blow up a small stick of 1400 NiMH cells last night. I think it was the first time they've ever been charged; they were bought new ~8 years ago. The charger was set to "auto" at 1.1 amps and was just finished when I unplugged the pack. It blew about 10 seconds after unplugging and scared the crap out of me. I'm going to relocate my charging station away from the head-level shelf it resides on presently. I have an Xray M18T that I'm fixing up and I bought my son a 2WD Stampede that he absolutely loves. I'd like to get another truck. I think I'd prefer a 4x4 brushless RTR. I'm leaning towards the Stampede 4X4 VXL or Slash 4X4 VXL; I like the availability of parts for these models and their apparent durability. Please give me guidance as to options that meet my needs. I am "just" going to be bashing and playing/racing with my kids. Anyone order from these guys? http://www.marshasino.com/tra6708l-traxxas-stampede-4x4-vxl-brushless-110-rtr-monster-truck-wtqi-24ghz-lipo-charger-p-449.html http://www.marshasino.com/tra6807l-traxxas-slash-4x4-lcg-ultimate-110-4wd-short-course-truck-wtqi-24ghz-lipo-charger-p-446.html Thanks for your help.
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Feb 6, 2015 05:43
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RC noob here with a couple questions. I got my MST MS-01D RTR today and before I slap in a battery I'm wondering if the ESC needs to be changed to lipo mode and if so how do I do it/check? The car came with a XTR02 ESC. I also purchased a magnetic body mount system so I don't have to cut holes in that beautiful GTR body. Any tips on these? Do I have to cut the posts?
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Feb 6, 2015 06:20
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ESCs don't need to have modes changed for different battery types. An on road speedy will work fine with NiCADs, NIMHs or 2S Lipos (make sure you are using 2S for onroad). Most new ESCs have a voltage cut off for Lipo, which is worth setting if you can. I have never used the magnetic body mounts, always used a reamer and cut holes in shells.
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Feb 6, 2015 07:48
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 So, this happened today  It looks worse than it is. Steering arm needs to be popped back on, and I need to replace the front right shock tower. Luckily I had a $10 gift card from Tower Hobbies and they have the parts in stock, so this only cost me about $1.28 after shipping because I sprung for Priority Mail. In the meantime, i'm gonna grab a pair of pliers to pop the steering arm back on where it's supposed to go, and I figure I might be able to model cement the shock tower and have that hold for a bit as long as I go easy on it.  I tried popping it back on by hand, but it was having none of it. You can see it's all still in one piece, the landing just knocked it off.   This, on the other hand... completely sheared in half. S'why I bought a basher though! Honestly, I don't blame the car, this was entirely me. I launched it off a nice jump and it landed directly on the front right wheel on concrete after getting a good amount of air. Totally my fault, I can't fault ARRMA for that one at all. Oh well, it can be fixed and it'll live to drive again.
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Feb 6, 2015 20:03
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Another noob question here. I'm sure you guys know this from experience, but if I order the Axial Power Wagon that has a "standard" plug on the ESC, what kind of adapter will I need if the battery has a Deans plug? Would it be a male Deans to female Tamiya? I've read that I should probably just snip the "standard" connector and solder on a Deans plug, but I don't have a soldering iron and I'm just wanting to make sure I have everything I need. I was also leaning toward a MaxAmps LiPo since they're waterproof. Is this a good decision or am I wasting money that I could put toward something else?
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Feb 6, 2015 22:35
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Riller posted:Another noob question here. I'm sure you guys know this from experience, but if I order the Axial Power Wagon that has a "standard" plug on the ESC, what kind of adapter will I need if the battery has a Deans plug? Would it be a male Deans to female Tamiya? I've read that I should probably just snip the "standard" connector and solder on a Deans plug, but I don't have a soldering iron and I'm just wanting to make sure I have everything I need. Just cut off the end and put a deans connector on it. A soldering gun is like $10.
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Feb 7, 2015 02:43
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This MST MS-01D RTR kit is amazing. Out of the box it drives great. Can't mount the body yet because the first stealth kit I ordered didn't fit right. Hopefully I ordered one that will work this time. I also ordered a light kit with 10 leds. God I should of gotten into drifting a long time ago. jdfording fucked around with this message at 08:06 on Feb 7, 2015 |
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Feb 7, 2015 08:01
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I picked up a couple of 25C 2s 5000mah batteries and thought I'd try them out to compare versus the 3s 5000mah batteries in the big yeti. Even with the 2s this thing is stupid powerful, I'd have to run them side by side or throw my phone with a speed log to see the difference.
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Feb 9, 2015 00:53
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So my Tamiya 240Z rally kit has arrived, as has the Yeah Racing upgrade kit. Things I still have to buy: - ESC (the US kit comes with an ESC, but the Japanese kit doesn't) - Servo - Radio gear - Batteries - Battery Charger I'm a little annoyed right now though. The falling AUD (against the USD) has increased my costs significantly. What would have been $400ish all up is now going to be way higher than that. The MST MS-01D (base model) RTR is $425 delivered, so I'm kinda sorta regretting not just buying that and being done with it (right about now, I'm ignoring jdfording's posts). Oh well, might just buy an ESC / Motor combo instead. I didn't think I'd need a servo, but it makes sense in hindsight. I've settled on Futaba's 3PM-X 3 Channel 2.4Ghz radio for the simple reason that I found it comfortable to hold/use (friend has one). Now for my questions: - Any recommendations for manufacturers for ESCs and motors? There's so many, I don't know what's good and what isn't. Is there any I should avoid? - For servos, there's Torque vs Speed models - what is the difference?
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Feb 9, 2015 21:39
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Depends on what you want to do with your car, depends on what type of motor/ESC you want to get. Most ESCs are the same, I've used Tekin, Novak and currently Hobby Wing. If you just want to use the car as a basher, you can't go wrong with the Hobby King (not Wing) stuff. Dirt cheap and usually have good support. In regards to motors, see above. Go for a 21.5T motor Servos are much of a muchness to me. I hear from some of the top racers that Sanwa has the fastest servos, but never gone wrong with Futaba's stuff.
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Feb 9, 2015 22:37
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Just built up a D413 over the weekend and yeah I'm biased but drat does it go together really nicely. The shocks are perfectly matched, left to right, and I didn't even try to bleed them properly. Coming from building the 2 RC10 re-releases last year it's amazing how much buggy racing tech has moved on! Next kit to build is the Kyosho Scorpion so back into the old-school method.
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Feb 10, 2015 14:30
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krushgroove posted:Just built up a D413 over the weekend and yeah I'm biased but drat does it go together really nicely. The shocks are perfectly matched, left to right, and I didn't even try to bleed them properly. Coming from building the 2 RC10 re-releases last year it's amazing how much buggy racing tech has moved on! I feel as though at some point I should give 1/8 off-road a try. In the 20 years I've been in the hobby I've raced or driven everything except for 1/8 scale and battleships (and I plan on trying battleships soon!). I'd probably have way more fun with it than standard 1/10 offroad racing as the vehicles are way more stable. If only the drat things didn't cost around 1k to make it to the track!
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Feb 10, 2015 15:32
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I stopped racing touring cars (partly) because of the tires, and this was just before LiPos and brushless motors went really big. Remember those times? no one knew how to charge them, people were burning down their houses and cars, NiMH batteries were exploding like shotgun shells, the entire class was upside-down because of turbo-boosting and of course you needed new batteries, new chargers and new motors to keep up...and this IN ADDITION TO needing 3 or 4 different bodies for aero tuning, tons of different tires, inserts and wheels because spec tires weren't a big thing yet...and you had to hope that your car brand was one of the 2 fast designs on the track that month. Yeah...good times. I'm all about scalers, fun stuff and retro now! I'd love to give 1/8 buggies a go, but can't stand the stink of nitro now. And I'd only want to do it for a weekend and hand all the stuff back.
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Feb 10, 2015 15:39
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krushgroove posted:I stopped racing touring cars (partly) because of the tires, and this was just before LiPos and brushless motors went really big. Remember those times? no one knew how to charge them, people were burning down their houses and cars, NiMH batteries were exploding like shotgun shells, the entire class was upside-down because of turbo-boosting and of course you needed new batteries, new chargers and new motors to keep up...and this IN ADDITION TO needing 3 or 4 different bodies for aero tuning, tons of different tires, inserts and wheels because spec tires weren't a big thing yet...and you had to hope that your car brand was one of the 2 fast designs on the track that month. Whoops! I thought the D413 was a 1/8 scale buggy. I was very confused reading your post until I did some googling As for 1/10 retro, I really wish that would've taken off when the re-releases started. Retro monster truck racing is a freaking blast and has become white hot and I love racing my Lunchbox and Clods but thats obviously a totally different niche. If there was a class for that Scorpion it would be fun as heck. From what I gather locally, they tried starting a retro class when the RC10 was re-released but people argued about the rules and it never took off.
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Feb 10, 2015 16:00
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krushgroove posted:I stopped racing touring cars (partly) because of the tires, and this was just before LiPos and brushless motors went really big. Remember those times? no one knew how to charge them, people were burning down their houses and cars, NiMH batteries were exploding like shotgun shells, the entire class was upside-down because of turbo-boosting and of course you needed new batteries, new chargers and new motors to keep up...and this IN ADDITION TO needing 3 or 4 different bodies for aero tuning, tons of different tires, inserts and wheels because spec tires weren't a big thing yet...and you had to hope that your car brand was one of the 2 fast designs on the track that month. Racing with NIMH batteries and rebuildable brush motors was a bloody pain in the arse. Especially towards the end of NIMH's reign of being the best battery to use in touring, as you could tell the battery manufacturers were having a hard time getting higher capacity in those batteries. Cells were popping or venting so easily. Then you had the hassle of rebuilding brushed motors, changing the brushes and cutting the comm. Yuck. In regards to rubber tyres, there's usually one brand that suits most tracks these days, it's just finding the right tyre compound (or temperature) to work with that track. One good thing that has happened over the past two years is the aftermarket for the top of the line chassis. Sure you could get Yeah Racing stuff for your TRF Tamiya, but these days you have a lot of higher quality aftermarket brands doing different carbon decks (and aluminium bottom decks) as well as suspension parts (for Team Associated cars) as well as other stuff.
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Feb 10, 2015 23:07
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I may have come off a little more bitter than I should have The UK vintage off-road racing scene is pretty good right now, and with Schumacher (British brand that's big in Britain but nowhere else) making a top-end 1/12th scale TC-style racing car and the previous company that used to dominate that scene upping their game, PLUS Protoform making really cool bodies for those cars the 'GT12' racing scene is really big right now too (think of small McLaren P1, Ferrari 458 and similar cars). It's also sort of the homeland of 1/18th scale racing buggies, which Carisma seems to be dominating.
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Feb 12, 2015 15:00
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krushgroove posted:I may have come off a little more bitter than I should have
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Feb 12, 2015 23:51
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I got out JUST before the NiMH batteries started exploding in people's faces, so I was at least able to skip that joy. After racing through the beginning of the spec tire era in big TC races it's funny to me to see people in the US commenting that big off-road races (like the recent Reedy Race) are strange now for using handout tires. They must like spending untold amounts of money on tires, are fully sponsored by a tire company or don't attend big races!
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Feb 13, 2015 09:52
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krushgroove posted:I got out JUST before the NiMH batteries started exploding in people's faces, so I was at least able to skip that joy. After racing through the beginning of the spec tire era in big TC races it's funny to me to see people in the US commenting that big off-road races (like the recent Reedy Race) are strange now for using handout tires. They must like spending untold amounts of money on tires, are fully sponsored by a tire company or don't attend big races! If you take a hobby serious enough to end up as a competitor there, tire cost is the last think on your mind, you are a real competitor, and having the right equipment to be #1 for your driving style, far outweighs the cost difference on RC car tires.
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Feb 13, 2015 10:30
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