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I really hope not, seeing as how they were just replaced about a month and a half ago.
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Feb 8, 2015 13:50
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Valve cover gaskets, cam and crank gear, rear main, rear separator plate, oil pan. All of those can leak oil too.
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Feb 8, 2015 14:23
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My wagon is going through too much oil, too. 80k miles on it after almost 9 years, but mostly city driving. So we're looking at new struts, a clutch replacement, and now diagnosing/replacing whatever is causing this issue. At what point do I just trade this old girl in? Too bad they don't make a WRX wagon or hatch anymore, because I'd jump all over that.
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Feb 8, 2015 16:58
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Valve cover gaskets are probably most likely.
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Feb 8, 2015 19:06
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So after my MR2 got written off I've been bouncing between two dealerships chasing a deal on a FiST and i'm currently at 24k (cdn) on the road. That being said I've been looking at the Ontario kijiji market and I've always loved bugeye wagons http://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/mississauga-peel-region/2003-subaru-impreza-ts-hatchback/1049890895?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true I've only done tires and oil changes on subies, so I'm not that familiar with the maintenance schedule, but basic internet research tells me it probably has the bad headgasket (needs an 04-06 sti to fix?) and will be due for a timing belt service soon. If it's rear shock towers aren't too rusted would 4k be a good price for something like this?
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Feb 8, 2015 22:29
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I paid $2500 for my beater '03 but I really should have paid less. That is the colour I wanted, but could not get. I'd say a running, working example without critical rust would be worth $4k. That's pretty low mileage, but it is coming up on its first timing belt interval pretty soon. Head gaskets on these cars aren't a critical thing; on the DOHC engines a head gasket leak will eventually kill the engine but on an SOHC like this one it will just leak and need new oil and coolant periodically. Should probably still get fixed, and yes, you'll fix it with an MLS head gasket from a turbo Subaru (see the OP of this very thread for part numbers). I'm always suspicious when I see a car at 0 km on the trip odometer that has been freshly washed. You're gonna want to do a few drive cycles and bring an OBD2 scanner that can check for monitor status, in case the rear end in a top hat selling it recently cleared the codes. Also look really closely at the paint in broad daylight. Empty tank also says to me maybe it's an auction car. Definitely check out the rear quarters, rear subframe and strut towers for rust. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 22:37 on Feb 8, 2015 |
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Feb 8, 2015 22:33
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The used ej257 case hunt is going lovely: Case 1: too much cyl damage to be bored out Case 2: apparently caught on fire. If anyone sees a nice one near socal, let me know. I think I'm really only waiting a couple more weeks before I knuckle down and buy a new case.
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Feb 8, 2015 22:57
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nm, my '05 has 120k on it now with no issues outside of the valve cover gaskets leaking but goddamn if your odyssey of pain doesn't make me want to just sell it while it could still fetch 10k. I've been wanting to go stage 2 "any time now" for like 5 years but tbh I'm glad I haven't just for the greater peace of mind. I'm worried about the upstream cat disintegrating but that's about the only reason I'd gently caress with the up-pipe at this point. loving EJ. e: I think I figured out the intermittent P0171 - loving PO removed the intake silencer without plugging the hole! I fixed it and we'll see what happens. Scrambles fucked around with this message at 23:51 on Feb 8, 2015 |
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Feb 8, 2015 23:48
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And I'm just glad I've got an ej22 without a turbo. So much less poo poo to break. Sure more power would be fun, but it doesn't need it. At least not as long as I remember to shift late on on-ramps.
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Feb 9, 2015 01:25
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Hey now let's not overreact here, it's not the poor widdle TD04's fault.
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Feb 9, 2015 01:27
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Why would their engineers allow them to put a cat before the turbo? That is seriously the dumbest thing I have ever heard.
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Feb 9, 2015 01:27
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For the same reason this piece of poo poo exists and likes to get stuck open/closed and throw a CEL?
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Feb 9, 2015 01:50
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:Why would their engineers allow them to put a cat before the turbo? That is seriously the dumbest thing I have ever heard. They did fix it after a few years, which is why there are a poo poo ton of cheap non-catted UPs out there. I put an sti pipe in years ago. I guess it was for emissions, but they made no changes when they got rid of it. I've also passed smog with it
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Feb 9, 2015 03:32
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nm posted:I guess it was for emissions, but they made no changes when they got rid of it. I've also passed smog with it
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Feb 9, 2015 03:54
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jamal posted:They added the air pump, and also ecu mapping that breaks pistons. Mine managed to break without it, but I think we've discovered my car was built on Friday after they hit the bars.
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Feb 9, 2015 03:57
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nm posted:The used ej257 case hunt is going lovely: Talk to Jeremy at Outfront, they might have something in the shop or can point you in the right direction.
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Feb 9, 2015 09:39
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Slow is Fast posted:Valve cover gaskets, cam and crank gear, rear main, rear separator plate, oil pan. jamal posted:Valve cover gaskets are probably most likely. Don't forget the spark plug gaskets. Those were the source of my oil->exhaust pipeline.
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Feb 9, 2015 15:29
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Man, I used to have good luck with Cardone CVs. The one I put on the car back in September has already split its boot. Good thing it's a "limited lifetime" warranty, just have to see how much they'll soak me on shipping to get it back to them.
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Feb 9, 2015 17:48
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I am pretty sure my mysterous wrx leak is a valve cover gasket as well. I had a minor leak on the pax side a while back, it has worsened. I have purchased oem gaskets for the valve cover, plugs and the 8 bolts. I have a tube of hondabond ht and I have looked at a few diy tutorials online. Do I have to drain the oil or just plan on replacing a bit hiding around the valves? Also there seems to be differing opinions on where and how much sealant to use. Is some on either side of the gaskets ok or what?
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Feb 9, 2015 19:14
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I'm considering getting rid of my Audi for a 2015 STI. How rough of a car is this? I don't personally mind, but the wife is likely to complain if it's too stiff.
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Feb 9, 2015 21:58
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No. 6 posted:I'm considering getting rid of my Audi for a 2015 STI. stiffer than other hot hatches/econoboxes, a big part might be the tires having pretty stiff sidewalls though. definitely not the stiffest car i've ridden in, but not exactly a luxury car either. seats kill my back after an hour or 2 of highway driving though, no lumbar support at all.
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Feb 9, 2015 22:23
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Welp, my 04 TS wouldn't start on a return trip today, crank but no fire. Poked around and I figure it's the fuel pump; I had RPM register on Torque on my phone, and I had spark. I pulled out the back seat and opened the access cover, and just out of curiousity I turned the key to on - and lo! whirring from the rear! Cranked and started no problem. That basically tells me that it was the pump, since I was banging around back there getting everything out I figure the vibration nudged the motor enough to let it spin. I have a new one on order to arrive tomorrow midday.
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Feb 9, 2015 23:43
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Power Steering Pump just shat it self in my Subaru 2009 WRX, and the local Chicago dealer (Mid-City Subaru) quoted me $790 out the door for a fix. This seems grossly too much for a power steering pump and was wondering if you goons have better approaches that don't involve the greater part of a $1k. Sadly I'm a med student in chicago w/o any access to tools and in the middle of a pretty tough rotation..so local garage recommendations/how to eke my way out of this would be awesome. (hell if any of you wanna help me do it and have space, I'd probably bring deep dish pizza beer and a bottle of nice scotch as a thank you)
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Feb 10, 2015 00:22
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What do you mean by "shat itself?" Most common thing I see is a leak between the reservoir and pump which results in air being drawn into the system and bad noises. If it goes on for too long cavitation will damage the pump internals, but you might just be able to replace the hose, clamps, and o-ring on the inlet fitting. p/s pump is really straightforward to change, but yeah a new one at the dealer is going to be an expensive part.
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Feb 10, 2015 00:28
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adnam posted:Power Steering Pump just shat it self in my Subaru 2009 WRX, and the local Chicago dealer (Mid-City Subaru) quoted me $790 out the door for a fix. This seems grossly too much for a power steering pump and was wondering if you goons have better approaches that don't involve the greater part of a $1k. Sadly I'm a med student in chicago w/o any access to tools and in the middle of a pretty tough rotation..so local garage recommendations/how to eke my way out of this would be awesome. (hell if any of you wanna help me do it and have space, I'd probably bring deep dish pizza beer and a bottle of nice scotch as a thank you) If you're not up for doing it yourself, I'd give Mark @ APM a call. They're about the only shop around I'd trust that won't rake you over the coals in price. They're in Villa Park, and I'm actually dropping the spec.B off tomorrow for the 60k maint.
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Feb 10, 2015 01:20
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Welp, just got done replacing TGV sensor #1. gently caress me, that was a pain in the rear end. I thought I had small hands, but nope, not small enough. Also gonna need some new hoses now because of this "gently caress you, it's cold" weather. 
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Feb 10, 2015 04:55
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No. 6 posted:I'm considering getting rid of my Audi for a 2015 STI. I drive my '15 STI everday and Ill admit that it can be a little rough sometimes. But honestly thats mostly because no one in NJ knows how to pave a god drat highway. Seriously, freshly redone highways and they are worse than roads that havnt been paved in years. Overall though, I dont find it bad. And for reference I drive a good amount for work, 6k mi in 2 months.
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Feb 10, 2015 14:08
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Finally discovered what that horrible, horrible burning oil-ish smell is: inner cv has been throwing grease right onto the downpipe  edit: should I go oem or what to replace this thing? i saw SSS say that his boot from september has began to fail already. I think i'm going to tackle this one at the nearby place which rents lifts and tools for $40/hr. might as well look at doing the VCG on the passenger side too while i'm on the lift OBAMNA PHONE fucked around with this message at 19:59 on Feb 10, 2015 |
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Feb 10, 2015 16:59
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Anyone have experience with FreeSSM? It appears to be an open-source version of the Subaru Select Monitor, which allows access to the ECM. All I want to do at first is change the setting to make my keyfob unlock all doors with one click but I'm kind of excited to nerd out with it.
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Feb 10, 2015 17:24
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Scrambles posted:Anyone have experience with FreeSSM? It appears to be an open-source version of the Subaru Select Monitor, which allows access to the ECM. All I want to do at first is change the setting to make my keyfob unlock all doors with one click but I'm kind of excited to nerd out with it. If that works it will be pretty rad.
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Feb 10, 2015 19:28
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That looks really cool. Cable is $12? gently caress it, I'll give it a try.
Naked Bear fucked around with this message at 19:52 on Feb 10, 2015 |
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Feb 10, 2015 19:48
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si posted:If you're not up for doing it yourself, I'd give Mark @ APM a call. They're about the only shop around I'd trust that won't rake you over the coals in price. They're in Villa Park, and I'm actually dropping the spec.B off tomorrow for the 60k maint. Thanks, gave them an email and waiting back to hear from 'em.
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Feb 10, 2015 22:05
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Scrambles posted:Anyone have experience with FreeSSM? It appears to be an open-source version of the Subaru Select Monitor, which allows access to the ECM. All I want to do at first is change the setting to make my keyfob unlock all doors with one click but I'm kind of excited to nerd out with it. I've heard that FreeSSM is the only way to bleed brakes the 100% correct way because it will cycle the ABS pump. I've been meaning to get it myself, let us know how it works for you.
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Feb 10, 2015 22:17
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Neptr posted:I've heard that FreeSSM is the only way to bleed brakes the 100% correct way because it will cycle the ABS pump. I've been meaning to get it myself, let us know how it works for you. The project's website appears to be down and the sourceforge page hasn't been touched since April 2014, it may be abandoned. On the plus side, you can get the cable for less than $9 off ebay.
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Feb 11, 2015 02:11
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My thoughts exactly, a VAG-COM cable might be handy anyway and cheap enough to take a chance. As long as it works in its current incarnation the lack of further development might not be an issue. I'll report back.
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Feb 11, 2015 02:16
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FreeSSM is cool but it would be nicer if it did a bunch of things like toyota techstream- i.e. Changing lighting options and programming tpms.
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Feb 11, 2015 08:16
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I replaced the fuel pump in my Impreza last night, took about 3 leisurely hours from starting to take the seats out until everything was back in. That was EASY.  After working on mostly domestics for a while and having to drop the tank, an access hatch under the rear seat makes the most incredible amount of sense.edit: tools used were a small socket set and a pair of slip joint pliers, and some Fluid Film to help coax the lines off. That was EASY. Easy. drat. stevobob fucked around with this message at 17:27 on Feb 11, 2015 |
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Feb 11, 2015 17:18
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Do rear upper mounts and/or spring seats usually wear out and need to be replaced (on a car that has shocks in the rear rather than struts)? If so, what are signs that they are worn and need replacing. I'm @ 150k and replacing the the shocks, so I'm wondering if I should just go ahead and replace other components while I'm in there. I've seen people recommend replacing front strut tops (which I did at 93k) in the past, but am not sure if that also applies to rear shock setups as well.
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Feb 11, 2015 20:52
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The rear mounts on that are pretty close to a solid plate (there is some rubber). If you pull the carpet up in the back I think you will be able to see them. Unless there are a bunch of big cracks I'd leave them.
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Feb 11, 2015 21:11
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2000 Subaru Legacy Outback Station Wagon with like 160,xxx or something on the clock. Wife says that at times the needles/gauges will do weird things quickly (and briefly) before returning to their rightful positions. Also the LCD stuff will lose segments. Where do I start looking?
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Feb 11, 2015 23:34
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