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IF YOU ARE ASKING A QUESTION, YOU NEED TO GIVE DETAILS Be specific. "MY BLUE CAR IS MAKING A SQUEAK WHAT COULD IT BE?" ain't good enough. Tell us the make / model / year / engine type when asking questions about your car. Beyond that, the experts will ask for further details. The last two threads: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2012475 http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2341562 If you are asking about what car to buy, that's this thread.
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# ? Feb 7, 2015 23:06 |
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# ? May 21, 2024 15:55 |
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Protip: don't throw parts at a car. Protip II: don't get it serviced by the dealer, unless you have a warranty, in which case, keep your receipts even if you get it serviced by the dealer. Case in point: Hyundai.
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# ? Feb 7, 2015 23:17 |
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Geirskogul posted:Protip: don't throw parts at a car. Agreed. 87 Lada Niva. Not really asking a question. just saying for reference. Throwing parts at a car to solve a vague condition can be costly and time consuming. There's a horrible groan I've been chasing for months in the front end when I turn the steering wheel. I've even tried using a sound meter on my phone to pinpoint it. There are so many parts under there I could replace to try and alleviate it, but all the parts while old appear to be serviceable. I believe I have may found the problem. it seems to be a flogged inner tie rod end. This can be isolated if I try. It pays to take time and thought into narrowing down then isolating issues. And bearing in mind cause and effect. Just because a part is misbehaving and doing X, doesn't mean it is the one causing the problem.
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# ? Feb 8, 2015 00:24 |
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2002 Nissan Sentra GXE 1.8L engine - 144,000 miles on it. Bought brand new in 2002. I'm the only owner - she's my baby. Today my car decided to stall on me in drive while coming to a stop at a red light. I fired it back up and drove to the grocery store, where I was headed in the first place. Car stalls again as I'm parking. I fired it back up, only to have it stall while in park. I'm able to drive the car just fine with the ole "one foot on the brake and one foot on the gas" trick. Brought it home and sat in the car for a few minutes and it was running/idling just fine without my foot on the gas in park. I noticed recently that it was idling a little low whenever I stopped at a stop light or whatever, but it's never stalled on me like it did today. There are no codes and nothing else seems wrong with the car (it's not acting funny in any other way other than the funny idle/stalling issues). I have an appointment with mechanics tomorrow morning to get it checked out. I'm thinking it could be a fuel filter, spark plugs or maybe the mass air flow sensor (known to be an issue with these Nissans). My questions are: 1. Does the 2002 Nissan Sentra even have a serviceable fuel filter? I keep reading online that it does not and I'd have to change out the entire fuel pump instead (??) 2. Wouldn't the mass air flow sensor throw a code? 3. Could it be anything else? I'm trying to determine if I should just have the spark plugs and fuel filter done or if I should spend the $89 diagnostics price to have the mechanics just tell me what it is. AquarianFire fucked around with this message at 01:31 on Feb 8, 2015 |
# ? Feb 8, 2015 01:23 |
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The filter/pump combo has been catching on for a while now. I hadn't heard of it that far back, but it's definitely a thing. Are you sure there's no codes, or are you going by the check engine light? There are codes that won't trigger a light. Edit: Yeah I don't think it's a fuel filter problem. I ran a fuel filter something like 6x it's intended lifespan because I'm an idiot, and it acted like a car that's running out of gas. Pushing the pedal wouldn't have ANY effect, it would just idle until it was starved enough to die. After a few minutes, I guess the crud shifted enough to let fuel flow through again (briefly) and I could start it again. In your case I'm thinking it's more of a sensor issue, maybe the MAF or something. Godholio fucked around with this message at 02:28 on Feb 8, 2015 |
# ? Feb 8, 2015 02:19 |
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Seems to me that if it was a fuel supply issue, it should get worse under load / more throttle, not better - more throttle would just mean more lean. To reiterate the first reply of the thread - don't just throw parts at it. Do plugs on it if they're due and you don't want to do it yourself, but don't expect that to necessarily solve this unless the ones that are in the car are really, really bad.
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# ? Feb 8, 2015 02:24 |
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No check engine light. I do not have the ability to check the codes without going somewhere, and honestly, I'm a little chicken poo poo to drive the car. My boyfriend drove it home for me today. We actually left he grocery store and drove right to Pepboys. They were super BUSY and my boyfriend wasn't too keen on waiting around for a couple of hours just to be seen, so we made an appointment for tomorrow morning.
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# ? Feb 8, 2015 02:37 |
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Geirskogul posted:Protip: don't throw parts at a car. Instructions unclear, Threw parts at dealership. Issue seems resolved anyways.
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# ? Feb 8, 2015 02:43 |
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AquarianFire posted:No check engine light. I do not have the ability to check the codes without going somewhere, and honestly, I'm a little chicken poo poo to drive the car. My boyfriend drove it home for me today. We actually left he grocery store and drove right to Pepboys. They were super BUSY and my boyfriend wasn't too keen on waiting around for a couple of hours just to be seen, so we made an appointment for tomorrow morning. Any parts store like Autozone (unless you're in California) will check the codes for free. It's a 30 second process.
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# ? Feb 8, 2015 03:45 |
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2014 VW Jetta Sportswagen 2.0L TDI 25k miles (its a working car) While doing my route today, I had to do a typically hairy NJ driving maneuver to get out of a parking lot onto the highway using the sport mode and gunning it so I didn't get run over. I have done this a few times every night since I started this job and it was never any kind of problem until today. Ever since that particular maneuver, the alternator/battery light has been flashing at completely random intervals. I turned off all the electricity thing I could except headlights and then I didn't have any problems finishing my route which was about thirty five miles from where it first started until I got home. When I did get home and shut off the car, I heard some god awful clicking and clacking noises after I got out which did stop after a few seconds (as if the DPF regen was malfunctioning). At the end of the day, I do have fleet maintenance so I don't really need to know what the problem is but I'd like to know if there's a risk that this thing is going to up and die on me at some random point which would factor into if I take it to the nearby shop of the guy I don't trust or the one significantly farther away who I like much more and would prefer to get my company's money.
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# ? Feb 8, 2015 03:59 |
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Is there any good way yet to retrofit the headlights on a ten-year-old car to LEDs? Ideally, I'd be looking for some kind of drop-in unit to replace the bulb. My car is a 2005 Mazda3, which takes H7 headlight bulbs. Tonight after changing a bulb (and fighting with that STUPID retaining clip ) it occurred to me that my car is the last bastion of the incandescent light bulb in my life. It would be great to switch to bulbs that will last basically forever, and never have to deal with said retaining clip ever again. Google tells me that such LED bulbs do exist, but I don't know whether they're any good or not. e: Note that I'm not exactly a gearhead, which explains my preference for a nice easy drop-in solution. Powered Descent fucked around with this message at 04:29 on Feb 8, 2015 |
# ? Feb 8, 2015 04:26 |
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Powered Descent posted:Is there any good way yet to retrofit the headlights on a ten-year-old car to LEDs? Ideally, I'd be looking for some kind of drop-in unit to replace the bulb. No. The bulbs are not enough. The projectors matter so you don't blind people. There is also no DOT approved way to do this that costs less than buying a car that has LED lights or at least LED lights as an option and retrofitting the correct OEM parts to your car.
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# ? Feb 8, 2015 05:07 |
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Motronic posted:No. That's what I was afraid of. Thanks!
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# ? Feb 8, 2015 05:32 |
Lets see if the new thread can help me with this issue that I'm still fighting. 97 Toyota Tercel with a 4E-FE. Efi is a simple MAP sensor system with an electronic distributor, one 02 sensor and not much else. Pretty normal for a late 90's toyota, almost identical system to a 4AFE. I have thus far replaced the distributor (old one was completely knackered), MAP sensor, ISCV (old one was clogged to poo poo), cleaned the TB, seafoamed the engine, plugs, O2 sensor and engine temp sensor. The issue: cold idles perfectly. As the car heats up, the idle reduces in speed (normal) but also gets quite rough and lumpy when the car is in D or R (in neutral it's ok). This is fine during the day, but putting electrical load on by switching on the headlights makes the idle drop down to an uncomfortably low speed that causes the steering wheel and whole car to shake. It never stalls, it never hesitates taking off from a stop, never stutters, drives perfectly. It just doesn't seem to be able to compensate for added electrical load by bringing the idle up slightly. Having an indicator going while you're stopped in D makes the idle fluctuate up and down in time with the indicator turning on and off. I'm at a loss as to what else to look for/do. It's like the car just won't behave as designed and it isn't a faulty component that I can find.
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# ? Feb 8, 2015 05:42 |
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Maybe a vacuum leak? I assume ISCV is the idle speed control valve, else I would suggest maybe the IAC motor/valve, what I normally hear it called.Chief Savage Man posted:2014 VW Jetta Sportswagen 2.0L TDI 25k miles (its a working car) Hmmm. Sounds like exhaust noises - things that are hot and cool down quickly tend to make creaking clanking noises as they do so. As for the battery/alt light issue I bet the alternator didn't like the high RPMs today and packed it in, or at least the brushes for the field winding are now making intermittent contact.
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# ? Feb 8, 2015 06:56 |
Intake manifold has a grand total of 3 vacuum lines (booster, pcv, evap canister). It isn't leaking. I know conventional wisdom indicates that solid tappet Toyotas never go out of spec and even when they do, it makes gently caress all difference to anything, but could loose clearances do this? Forgot to mention: chucked a set of junkyard injectors at it, made no difference at all, so I'm assuming the injectors are OK at 190,000km.
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# ? Feb 8, 2015 07:03 |
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Hmmmm. Yeah I am about out of ideas, it should compensate for power usage easily in closed loop idle. Does the intake air temp sensor show a sane reading? If it is reading way off, that can affect things just as much as a wonky MAP since both values are needed to calculate the mass of incoming air iirc. I would still expect it to compensate for that using the O2 sensor but you never know. Speaking of which, what are the long and short term fuel trims? E: now not so sure about the IAT thing, need to remember my stoich and gas laws I guess.
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# ? Feb 8, 2015 07:07 |
IAT readings are sensible. Don't think the car has the ability to correct long-term, or if it does both scan tools I've hooked to it can't display them for some reason (modern cars work perfectly). It isn't OBDII fwiw. I can't picture it being anything a/f ratio related like a temp sensor because it runs perfectly, it just won't idle fast enough when it has electrical load.
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# ? Feb 8, 2015 08:38 |
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IOC, can you change the post icon to something that isn't animated as it's kind of annoying in my list of bookmarked threads? It's the only one on my list that is and is bound to always be at the top and now my cat won't stop punching my monitor....
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# ? Feb 8, 2015 09:16 |
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I request an epilepsy-inducing animated tag.
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# ? Feb 8, 2015 09:22 |
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Powered Descent posted:Is there any good way yet to retrofit the headlights on a ten-year-old car to LEDs? Ideally, I'd be looking for some kind of drop-in unit to replace the bulb. You might be able to find a complete "drop in" housing. But yeah, switching bulb types is almost always a bad idea, because the source of light is almost never in the right place. Think about shining a flashlight in a mirror...if you move that flashlight just a little bit it can have a big effect on where the light shines. Now do that in a mirror with facets designed to aim a coherent beam to specific areas, and it quickly becomes a mess. As mentioned, also not street legal.
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# ? Feb 8, 2015 09:24 |
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Powered Descent posted:Is there any good way yet to retrofit the headlights on a ten-year-old car to LEDs? Ideally, I'd be looking for some kind of drop-in unit to replace the bulb. If you want, there was an HID option for the 3. It was on the Grand Touring spec at least from 06 on; in 2005 it might have only been on the SP23 but I'm not sure. Don't know what kind of work it would require to switch over but I never considered it because the halogens on this car are pretty good. edit: and those also had LED taillights if you want those.
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# ? Feb 8, 2015 09:25 |
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My Jetta completely died about half a mile from the shop in case anybody is wondering. Thank God for fleet response.
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# ? Feb 8, 2015 18:13 |
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Somehow my wife managed to snap the hood release cable on my 1996 F350. I can't seem to get at the end of it from inside the cab, and I can't seem to pop the release by reaching through the grille either. Any suggestions?
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# ? Feb 8, 2015 18:49 |
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Chief Savage Man posted:2014 VW Jetta Sportswagen 2.0L TDI 25k miles (its a working car) See emphasis above, surely this is still under factory warranty? Take it to the dealer and let them handle it. e: just saw your later reply, if it's a fleet car let the fleet management company handle it. Geoj fucked around with this message at 19:08 on Feb 8, 2015 |
# ? Feb 8, 2015 19:01 |
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There's no Corvette thread so I figured I'd ask here...Anyone know of a west-coast equivalent (preferably in the valley) to Kerbeck Corvette (https://www.kerbeck.com)?
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# ? Feb 8, 2015 20:35 |
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Why, are you looking to buy? I'm 99% certain my dad got his old C6 through Kerbeck and they were able to have it ordered and sent to a dealership here in AZ. Neither my old man nor the car ever went anywhere near NJ.
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# ? Feb 8, 2015 20:54 |
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IOwnCalculus posted:Why, are you looking to buy? I'm 99% certain my dad got his old C6 through Kerbeck and they were able to have it ordered and sent to a dealership here in AZ. Neither my old man nor the car ever went anywhere near NJ. I've started doing some market research for a terrible mistake i plan on making in the summer. I read online that they ship their cars around but if there is an equally good specialized dealer on the west, where I can just trade in my current wheels as well (I'm lazy), I'd rather go there and save on the shipping costs.
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# ? Feb 8, 2015 21:00 |
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I'll have to check with him but I don't think he paid anything other than a typical destination fee - Kerbeck ordered it from the factory but was able to set it up so that it never went to them to begin with.
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# ? Feb 8, 2015 21:06 |
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IOwnCalculus posted:I'll have to check with him but I don't think he paid anything other than a typical destination fee - Kerbeck ordered it from the factory but was able to set it up so that it never went to them to begin with. That would be awesome, I would greatly appreciate if you did that...Their prices seem SO much better compared to any other dealership that i've found online, particularly the ones on the West Coast...
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# ? Feb 8, 2015 21:30 |
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Note that if you are buying a new car in California, it must be a California-emissions car. You can't get around it by importing a car from an out-of-state dealership.
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# ? Feb 8, 2015 23:30 |
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Leperflesh posted:Note that if you are buying a new car in California, it must be a California-emissions car. You can't get around it by importing a car from an out-of-state dealership. What do you mean "California emissions"? Are Vettes destined for CA different mechanically or in terms of ECU calibration to meet different emissions standards?
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# ? Feb 8, 2015 23:47 |
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AquarianFire posted:2002 Nissan Sentra...stalling... quote:2. Wouldn't the mass air flow sensor throw a code? Unplug the MAF. Any change? Phyiscally remove the crank sensor and check for oil in the connector. Slavvy posted:97 Toyota Tercel with a 4E-FE. Efi is a simple MAP sensor system with an electronic distributor, one 02 sensor and not much else. Unplug every sensor. Does it idle on ECM default readings?
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# ? Feb 8, 2015 23:49 |
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shodanjr_gr posted:What do you mean "California emissions"? Are Vettes destined for CA different mechanically or in terms of ECU calibration to meet different emissions standards? Maybe not Corvettes specifically, but some cars do have mechanically distinct "California Emissions" models. These days I wanna say most cars have unified so that all cars meet those standards, but in certain cases the difference may cause the California models to be more expensive by enough margin that it makes sense to split them into their own production line (or setup within the same factory, whatever) because the expense is offset by how much cheaper the 49-state models are.
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# ? Feb 9, 2015 01:14 |
mr.belowaverage posted:No, it does not. Good idea, I'll try this when I get home.
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# ? Feb 9, 2015 03:14 |
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Stupid question. WTF is the difference between a hatchback focus and a c-max? Or, given the c-max is hybrid/electric, whats the difference between a hybrid focus and a hybrid c-max and/or an electric focus and an electric c-max? They seem to be pretty much the same damned thing to me.
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# ? Feb 9, 2015 06:50 |
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C-Max is a "people mover" or MPV - kind of a cross between a minivan and a four-door hatch/station wagon. Longer wheelbase and more headroom than the Focus hatch, although they do share the Ford C platform as an underpinning.
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# ? Feb 9, 2015 07:23 |
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Motronic posted:It's raspberry milkshake and it's not an overflow. LeeMajors posted:
some texas redneck posted:Did the owner tell you this had happened? The vast majority of car owners will have no idea this has happened until the transmission starts acting up. And no, there really won't be any way to tell easily, the only indication would be a brand new radiator, or brand new transmission cooler in front of it. If the coolant has been changed on schedule, it's possible it's on the original radiator, and never had the pink milkshake. The transmissions don't last very long after drinking a strawberry milkshake, for what it's worth. thank you each for this wisdom.
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# ? Feb 9, 2015 08:38 |
Slavvy posted:Good idea, I'll try this when I get home. Quoting for progress. Car runs with every sensor disconnected. Connecting them one by one led to not much change in idle until the engine temp sensor, which caused a noticeable drop (like 450-500rpm in D/R with low beams, indicator and windscreen wipers going). Guess I have to re-examine that, now.
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# ? Feb 9, 2015 08:43 |
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# ? May 21, 2024 15:55 |
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Godholio posted:Any parts store like Autozone (unless you're in California) will check the codes for free. It's a 30 second process. ok so I have to ask, why won't California Autozones do this?
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# ? Feb 9, 2015 14:26 |