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I have 2 benches with 1.5" mdf tops, one I put danish oil on, and one finished with poly. I use the poly-coated one for more general stuff that you're talking about, and it's been great for a few years now. Super easy to clean. If you get cheap trim it even looks pretty nice! I think an oil finish will collect more stains along the way as it isn't a film finish.
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Feb 13, 2015 21:05
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Oh, didn't know you could put poly on MDF.
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Feb 13, 2015 21:11
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Sylink posted:My new grizzly g0715p is here pics or it didn't happen etc
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Feb 14, 2015 00:43
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swampface posted:I have 2 benches with 1.5" mdf tops, one I put danish oil on, and one finished with poly. I use the poly-coated one for more general stuff that you're talking about, and it's been great for a few years now. Super easy to clean. If you get cheap trim it even looks pretty nice! I think an oil finish will collect more stains along the way as it isn't a film finish. Where did you get 1.5" MDF?
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Feb 14, 2015 01:27
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Shaocaholica posted:Where did you get 1.5" MDF? Glued/screwed two pieces together.
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Feb 14, 2015 01:45
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the spyder posted:I'm a fan of using 1/4" Hardboard on top of either MDF or CDX ply. Gives a nice solid work top that's easily replaceable. I was going to say the same exact thing. My bench top is 2 layers of 3/4" partial board with 1/4" hardboard on top. I really like the hardboard top. It can take a beating.
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Feb 14, 2015 02:30
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I just wrote my Red Seal today. Assuming I passed, I'm officially a journeyman. Also, more excitingly, I finished my blanket box earlier this week. Here are the pictures :       Feeling much less stressed. Partly thanks to being done, partly due to the celebratory whiskey. Cheers, everyone!
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Feb 14, 2015 06:12
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drat that's beautiful.
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Feb 14, 2015 12:06
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Good work, that's gorgeous.
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Feb 14, 2015 14:58
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Hot drat, son.
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Feb 14, 2015 15:44
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That is beautiful. The top is really cool.
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Feb 14, 2015 15:49
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mds2 posted:That is beautiful. The top is really cool. Pretty much this exactly
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Feb 14, 2015 16:41
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Yeah sure...."blanket" box. Because everyone needs to lock away "blankets" in their bedroom.
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Feb 14, 2015 19:07
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midge posted:Yeah sure...."blanket" box. Because everyone needs to lock away "blankets" in their bedroom.
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Feb 14, 2015 19:26
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Lurk this thread for the pictures of finished projects, can't help but poke in and give you a dyammmmmmn. That is gorgeous.
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Feb 14, 2015 20:10
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bimmian posted:pics or it didn't happen etc doesn't actually matter because I have 10-50R outlet that I now have to figure out how to convert to the 5-20 used by the grizzly saw.
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Feb 14, 2015 21:51
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That is an amazing box.
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Feb 14, 2015 22:12
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Made a little box that looks like a book for the wife. Pales in comparison to that blanket box though, wow! Cherry wood and finished with beeswax and orange oil.   http://imgur.com/a/y2Or0
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Feb 15, 2015 01:32
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Squibbles posted:Made a little box that looks like a book for the wife. I really like this, and might want to steal this design sometime soon. You could do some woodburning or carving or both to do a label on the back, with an author and title, maybe some decorative scrollwork too, that would be even cooler than it already is
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Feb 15, 2015 01:59
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Incredible work on the chest Skinny Bins.Squibbles posted:Made a little box that looks like a book for the wife. Well I know what I'm making for my moms birthday this year, that's awesome. I might add a couple magnets to keep it shut. Paint the edge, or glue on a real book binding and that could be a nice hiding space on a bookshelf. Or the book on the shelf you pull on to access your secret workshop
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Feb 15, 2015 02:06
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I can't take credit for the book box. Steve Ramsey did the original concept: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0LXxQreDmW8 I remember seeing some ideas in the comments such as using plywood for the inside edge that might give more illusion of pages. I could have rounded the spine more so it looked more like a real book spine. I was also thinking it would be neat to carve some little lines across the back to give it more detail like an old book, similar to this: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/87/Old_book_bindings.jpg And yeah later on I definitely was thinking it would be cool to carve a design on the 'cover' and/or spine. Even something like what Paul Sellers did for the detail work on his hand saw would probably look really nice (https://vimeo.com/31152321 6 minutes in)
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Feb 15, 2015 02:28
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What's a good place to get ~24"x72" hardboard?
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Feb 15, 2015 06:15
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Skinny Bins posted:Feeling much less stressed. Partly thanks to being done, partly due to the celebratory whiskey. Cheers, everyone! That blanket chest is scorching hot, drat fine.
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Feb 15, 2015 07:07
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Shaocaholica posted:What's a good place to get ~24"x72" hardboard? lowe's and home depot sell 4x8' sheets for $8-9 for the 1/8," a couple bucks more for the 3/16." They'll cut it for free
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Feb 15, 2015 07:54
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bimmian posted:pics or it didn't happen etc Ok I got this thing assembled after 2 days, and it works. Here is the old one   And the new -   Everything is a complete mess due to moving everything around to get this in. I had to rewire a receptacle with help from the wiring thread, but the saw works. And I saw some reports people had trouble getting everything square. Mine seems to be just fine and square out of the box with regards to the blade, at least within tolerance, I can barely tell. Though I think the blade it shipped with is complete poo poo or I have some other voltage issue because I was testing miter cuts and it started to bind up on a 2x4. But its a ripping blade so that could be it, but it feels underpowered when its 2HP/220v ?
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Feb 15, 2015 19:34
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Everything I've read says the blade is pretty much garbage, but it's surprising it would be bad enough to cause it to bind on a 2x4. Looks nice though. Glad everything was square out of the box, that'll save you a few hours.
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Feb 15, 2015 19:39
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I had to adjust the fence a bit, but didnt have to dig in and gently caress around with trunions.
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Feb 15, 2015 20:11
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Sylink posted:Though I think the blade it shipped with is complete poo poo or I have some other voltage issue because I was testing miter cuts and it started to bind up on a 2x4. But its a ripping blade so that could be it, but it feels underpowered when its 2HP/220v ? My Grizzly bandsaw shipped with a lovely blade. I suspect most people who really care about saws will buy whatever blade is special-purposed to their needs, so vendors don't usually spend much on the bundled blade.
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Feb 15, 2015 20:26
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They should just put in a Diablo blade then or something 
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Feb 15, 2015 20:56
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Sylink posted:They should just put in a Diablo blade then or something Speaking of which I just ordered an Ultra Finish Diablo blade for the table saw. After my experience with the Fine Finish Dewalt blade in the sliding miter saw I am unreasonably excited for it to arrive. (I also bought an 8" Freud dado stack. I saw one at Home Despot and was kinda oohing and ahhhing at it and my wife said "check Amazon to see if it's cheaper and get it if it is". Yep, she's a keeper.  )
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Feb 16, 2015 00:05
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Doctor Zero posted:Speaking of which I just ordered an Ultra Finish Diablo blade for the table saw. After my experience with the Fine Finish Dewalt blade in the sliding miter saw I am unreasonably excited for it to arrive. Diablo blades are great. I have a fine finish for my miter saw because I get a discount from my friends work. Completely worth the money.
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Feb 16, 2015 01:04
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Constructing furniture from pallets is probably a sin and not worthy of being called woodworking, but has anyone here done it? Been looking to make a bed frame with minimal tools. Just screwing pieces together, sanding it, a coat of stain, etc. Otherwise, would you guys recommend some other easy-to-make bedframes with wood that I can buy at a local Lowe's or Home Depot? Links for good tutorials or designs?
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Feb 16, 2015 01:47
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I did switch the blades out on my saw, used the old blade which was worn out a bit but better quality, and most of the binding problem went away so I think it is just the blade, though I feel like I could feed faster on my lovely bench saw.
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Feb 16, 2015 02:07
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cowbeef posted:Constructing furniture from pallets is probably a sin and not worthy of being called woodworking, but has anyone here done it? It's gotten super popular to reclaim pallet wood for everything from headboards to tables to cabinets. That being said, pallet wood is used in pallets because it's not really great wood. Often punky, easily split, funky wood. Also, it's usually treated with some pretty nasty chemicals to increase its lifespan. Never ever use pallet wood for anything that will ever touch food. Ever. You should also run a metal detector over any boards you plan to reclaim in this way. Really this is good practice any time you're reclaiming lumber or have boards with any kind of inclusions. It's way more effort than I'd ever want to put in to a board. Just hit up your local ReStore or its equivalent and pick up some reclaimed wood from them. One last note is the legality of pallets. They're actually kinda pricey to buy and the ones by the dumpster may not actually be being thrown out but waiting to be picked up. Similar to milk crates, stores (especially smaller ones) can get charged a replacement fee for missing pallets by their suppliers.
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Feb 16, 2015 04:46
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cowbeef posted:Constructing furniture from pallets is probably a sin and not worthy of being called woodworking, but has anyone here done it? Do you want to use the lumber from the pallets or are you planning on screwing some pallets together and calling it good? If you want the lumber learn to tell the wood types apart. Look for oak and redwood pallets as those boards have more value and will look better when finished. They are less common but are worth scavenging. Look for HT to be stamped on the pallet. This means it was heat treated and doesn't have all the nasty chemicals that some cheap pallets have. Don't even bother with pine pallets that are chemically treated. Buy a good crowbar if you plan to break down a lot of pallets and be prepared to be pulling nails out with pliers. Remember the good pallets you are after were built to last so they can be a pain to take apart. You will need to plane the vast majority of boards you get as they are mostly rough sawn. So decide if you will hand plane or machine plane them and factor your time and tool cost in to the project. Either way be sure all the nails are out or you will mess up your blades and end up with a poorly finished product. A strong magnet or some sort of metal detector is good for this. My dad uses pallets for small projects and manages to get good pallets by having a friendly relationship with several stores. So if a pallet gets wrecked by a forklift they will let him have it. As has been stated do not steal pallets because they are worth something to the stores, especially the pallets made from the good woods that you want. It works well for my dad because he is retired and has a large area to store pallets and is not working on specific projects with deadlines. So he can just kind of work with what comes as it comes.
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Feb 16, 2015 06:31
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Magnus Praeda posted:One last note is the legality of pallets. They're actually kinda pricey to buy and the ones by the dumpster may not actually be being thrown out but waiting to be picked up. Similar to milk crates, stores (especially smaller ones) can get charged a replacement fee for missing pallets by their suppliers. Be especially wary of the blue ones. http://www.logisticshandling.com/articles/2014/05/07/why-should-you-be-careful-of-blue-pallets-and-what-are-the-alternatives/
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Feb 16, 2015 10:23
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cowbeef posted:Otherwise, would you guys recommend some other easy-to-make bedframes with wood that I can buy at a local Lowe's or Home Depot? Links for good tutorials or designs? Woodgears.ca has some plans for beds made out of construction lumber. Maybe have a peruse of those http://woodgears.ca/bed/plans.html
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Feb 16, 2015 12:00
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Newbie bowl turning question: I used a lathe for the first time yesterday, and for the most part I think I did a decent job of it. I turned some scrap firewood pieces (oak, maple, walnut) down to cylinders, and made some beads and coves to get the feel for it. Then I tried to rough in a bowl on a piece of walnut that is still pretty green. It was a ~10" round, and the outside shaping went pretty well. I left myself a little foot, grabbed it as tightly in the chuck as I could manage, and started trying to hollow it out. The top was a bit uneven, so I used a scraper at first and that worked reasonably well against the end grain to flatten out the top. When I switched over to the bowl gouge though, it instantly caught and threw the bowl out of the chuck. I picked it back up and put it back in, tightening the chuck as hard as I could, and the same exact thing happened again. The guy who was showing me the ropes said it was probably because the wood was still wet and the chuck couldn't hold it well enough. I feel like that was certainly part of it, because I could see that the chuck had visibly chewed up the foot, but I also think maybe the bowl gouge wasn't sharp enough? He said I should avoid green wood until I have more experience with the lathe. I'm ok with that if that's the issue, but I have a few of these rounds I would like to rough in so they can dry properly. So general question is: Are there tricks / steps I can take to make hollowing out end grain easier in this situation?
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Feb 16, 2015 15:27
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I believe your issue is tool presentation to the work. There are some excellent videos on the subject that I can dig up for you when I'm back at my desktop.
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Feb 16, 2015 17:51
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What is a good source for hardwood that isn't boards? I need something 3"x3"x4" for a mallet.
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Feb 16, 2015 18:17
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