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I recently replaced my thermostat because the furnace was often heating way over the set temperature. However, it's still happening with the new one (a Hunter). Is it possible it's just a bum thermostat? Also, I started to think today that maybe the overheating only occurs when it's particularly cold here, like 15 or lower, Fahrenheit. Is there any reason that might be?
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Feb 15, 2015 04:14
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hooah posted:I recently replaced my thermostat because the furnace was often heating way over the set temperature. However, it's still happening with the new one (a Hunter). Is it possible it's just a bum thermostat? Also, I started to think today that maybe the overheating only occurs when it's particularly cold here, like 15 or lower, Fahrenheit. Is there any reason that might be? What type of furnace(gas, electric, oil, pellet, hamster)?make&model? How far over temp? Five degrees f? 30? Where is the thermostat location?
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Feb 15, 2015 04:41
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It's a Heil gas furnace, but I couldn't find a model number. Our landlord/wife's relative said he's replaced the furnaces (it's a duplex). It looks like that was done within the last 10-15 years. The thermostat for our 2nd-floor unit is in our hallway. When I notice the overheating, the thermostat says it's 72-73, and that can happen either when it's set to 70 during the day or 64 during the night, so anywhere from two to nine degrees F.
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Feb 15, 2015 14:34
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hooah posted:It's a Heil gas furnace, but I couldn't find a model number. Our landlord/wife's relative said he's replaced the furnaces (it's a duplex). It looks like that was done within the last 10-15 years. The thermostat for our 2nd-floor unit is in our hallway. When I notice the overheating, the thermostat says it's 72-73, and that can happen either when it's set to 70 during the day or 64 during the night, so anywhere from two to nine degrees F. Just bear with me while I ask some questions: Are you completely on the 2nd floor over the other tenants or you have 2 floors and 2 furnace? When the second floor is hotter than the set point is the furnace receiving a call for heat? If you set the thermostat cooler (68&62) does the temperature drop by 2 degrees? Assuming you live above the other tenants I'm assuming they are heating your unit for you.
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Feb 15, 2015 14:46
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:Just bear with me while I ask some questions: No, my wife's great-uncle is next door to us on both floors with his own furnace, and no one's below us. When I went down to check the kind of furnace, I fiddled with the thermostat down there, which was set to 60, and it felt that way. The furnace sounded like it was already running, but when I moved the downstairs thermostat to 70, a second fan or something kicked in. I don't know quite what you mean by your second question. I have noticed the registers still blowing out warm air e.g. at 10, 30 minutes after the thermostat changes the set temperature from 70 to 64. For your third question, the temperature measured by the thermostat doesn't seem affected by the set temperature when this is going on. Like I said, it'll read 72 or 73 whether it's set to 70 or 64.
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Feb 15, 2015 14:50
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hooah posted:No, my wife's great-uncle is next door to us on both floors with his own furnace, and no one's below us. When I went down to check the kind of furnace, I fiddled with the thermostat down there, which was set to 60, and it felt that way. The furnace sounded like it was already running, but when I moved the downstairs thermostat to 70, a second fan or something kicked in. How many thermostats do you have, what are their location, and how many furnace do you have? Your description makes it sound like you have 3 thermostats for one furnace. By call for heat I mean the thermostat is asking the furnace to turn on. Usually indicated by a little flame icon on the thermostat. Hot air continuing is likely intended. The furnace heats up the exchange and runs air over it till it cools to a point it isn't warming air. It is trying to be efficient.
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Feb 15, 2015 15:03
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Sorry I was unclear. Our side has one furnace, two thermostats; one upstairs, one downstairs. Downstairs one's always set to 60 since we just use it for storage. The thermostat doesn't have any such indicator; I have the fan set to auto, though, and an icon shows up when it's asking the fan to run. Could that be helpful?
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Feb 15, 2015 15:51
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Motronic posted:The material I've often seen used for that is generally called "ticking". It's like a heavy denim, and was originally used to keep the pokey parts of feathers inside of feather/down pillows and cushions. It doesn't much matter what you use as long as it's heavy since it's just there as a spring form and to keep the form in place. This is awesome. Thank you!
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Feb 15, 2015 18:47
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My washing machine just made a large clank sound, and then a few minutes later started making a high pitched whine and smelling like smoke. I stopped it, and that's where I am currently at. I have yet to dig into it because my back is killing me and I am sort of couch bound for the day, but any guesses?
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Feb 15, 2015 21:21
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Slugworth posted:My washing machine just made a large clank sound, and then a few minutes later started making a high pitched whine and smelling like smoke. I stopped it, and that's where I am currently at. I have absolutely no expertise on this kind of thing, but maybe a slipped or stuck belt?
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Feb 15, 2015 21:36
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hooah posted:Sorry I was unclear. Our side has one furnace, two thermostats; one upstairs, one downstairs. Downstairs one's always set to 60 since we just use it for storage. Does downstairs mean basement or first floor? My guess is that you have air flow such that the upstairs receives more hot air than "downstairs." I would propose that during the daytime, so no worries about extreme temps, drop the downstairs thermostat to 50 or even off for a few hours and see if the upstairs temperature is closer to your desired temperature. If this works then you need to adjust your dampers. It's fairly routine for a furnace to raise the temperature one or two degrees above the set point. This way the furnace isn't constantly cycling on and off. Nine degrees is too much. Fake edit: do you have an entertainment center or computer (comedy answer: bitcoin miner & indoor pot farm) in proximity of the thermostat?
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Feb 15, 2015 22:31
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:Does downstairs mean basement or first floor? Downstairs is the first floor; no basement. The entertainment center is in the room at one end of the hallway, and my computer is in a room just through the door near the thermostat:  I'll try turning the downstairs heat down. Unfortunately it's a really old circular thermostat that you can't really turn off (we replaced ours recently).
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Feb 15, 2015 22:38
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Step one: replace old mercury switch thermostat. Just grab a sub 20$ non programmable unit.
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Feb 15, 2015 22:57
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:Step one: replace old mercury switch thermostat. Just grab a sub 20$ non programmable unit. I don't see why that one would be a problem, though. It's always pretty cool on the first floor, since like I said we rarely go down there, and never long enough to bother touching the thermostat. If turning it down to 50 doesn't do anything though, I might just have to. By the by, mercury switch one on the other side of the duplex is working fine.
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Feb 15, 2015 23:03
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Slugworth posted:My washing machine just made a large clank sound, and then a few minutes later started making a high pitched whine and smelling like smoke. I stopped it, and that's where I am currently at. What is the make and model? Top or front loader? My first guess would be a motor linkage. Pull the plug, remove the front case off, take the motor off under the drum and look for damage.
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Feb 16, 2015 00:17
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kid sinister posted:What is the make and model? Top or front loader? My first guess would be a motor linkage. Pull the plug, remove the front case off, take the motor off under the drum and look for damage. It's a washer/dryer combo, but the washer was the only thing running at the time. I got the front panel off, belt looks fine. I will try popping the motor out tomorrow, my back started getting upset with me just getting the front panel off. Will a layman be able to spot damage to the motor? (Like, will it be obvious?) And I don't know if it helps, but the drum and the belt both still move freely by hand. In any case, the girlfriend has been angling for a new washer and dryer for awhile anyway, so we ordered a new combo today. I would like to fix the old one and see if I can sell it to recoup some costs though. Slugworth fucked around with this message at 01:20 on Feb 16, 2015 |
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Feb 16, 2015 01:11
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This weekend I replaced my kitchen faucet with a Moen Caldera. We have a portable dishwasher that we still use, but the dishwasher adapter doesn't fit on the new faucet. The new faucet is size 15/16 female, but I can't find a dishwasher adapter for it anywhere. Anyone have any experience with this and could point me to an adapter that would work, or am I out off luck with getting the dishwasher working with this faucet?
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Feb 16, 2015 02:27
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I have the same faucet and was able to find a male threaded dishwasher adapter at Rona. Your local hardware store should have one tgat works or a bushing to adapt your existing adapter.
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Feb 16, 2015 02:56
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I need to replace the aerator on my kitchen faucet but I have no idea what the brand or model of the faucet is. Is there a really common/universal size?
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Feb 16, 2015 03:18
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sirr0bin posted:I have the same faucet and was able to find a male threaded dishwasher adapter at Rona. Your local hardware store should have one tgat works or a bushing to adapt your existing adapter. Thanks for the reply. I went to two of the big box stores here and they didn't have either the adapter or a bushing for them, but I'll try a couple more stores today. I can't seem to find either online, so I was a little concerned, but I'm glad they exist. Rubiks Pubes posted:I need to replace the aerator on my kitchen faucet but I have no idea what the brand or model of the faucet is. Is there a really common/universal size? From what I've seen there are usually just a couple sizes, depending on whether the threads your aerator screw into on the faucet are on the inside or outside. If you can, just unscrew your aerator and take it in with you to make sure you get the right size.
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Feb 16, 2015 12:08
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The problem is that the aerator is just gone. The former owners had a Brita filter on it which we removed.
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Feb 16, 2015 16:03
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Rubiks Pubes posted:The problem is that the aerator is just gone. The former owners had a Brita filter on it which we removed. They're pretty standard. Imagine the mess of selling those screw-on Brita things if they weren't. There are internal and external thread faucets. You can hopefully spot that difference.
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Feb 16, 2015 18:29
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Frohike999 posted:Thanks for the reply. I went to two of the big box stores here and they didn't have either the adapter or a bushing for them, but I'll try a couple more stores today. I can't seem to find either online, so I was a little concerned, but I'm glad they exist. https://www.amresupply.com/part/ULN411-SPOUT-ADPT-DISHWASHER-DUAL-THR This looks like the same one I have. I don't have the packaging from mine as it was many years ago.
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Feb 16, 2015 18:44
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My 1958 home has a few siezed shut off valves. One in the garage I outright replaced with new stuff, but one is buried in a corner wall cavity and is right next to the whole house shut off. I would like to either get it functioning or replace it. It looks to be brass or bronze. My guess is it was never cycled and is just calcified inside. Is the simple repair to cut the water, loosen the packing nut, remove the stem and replace the insides with new? Should I just bite the bullet and have a plumber tear up the wall and replace the whole thing and also replace the also original house cut off?
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Feb 16, 2015 19:25
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Need some snow removal tips since I've never experienced this much snow before (Boston). I'm keeping the exhaust vents for the heat and dryer clear (Both are gas), but there's three other vents that I'm not sure of. The first two are on the roof, and it looks like they are exhaust vents for the bathroom and somewhere above the kitchen. In the kitchen, our microwave just uses it's installed vent (no cutout to vent through the roof), so I'm not sure what that is for. We have a gas range, but that wouldn't make sense, right? For the bathroom, I'm pretty sure it's just the fan exhaust. The third one I'm not sure about at all. In our basement, we have the heater, water heater, washer/dryer, a toilet, and a sink. I can easily trace the vent for the dryer outside, and that's free and clear, but there's another pipe coming out the side of the house. It's a huge 4" PVC pipe that comes directly out of the house maybe 2-3' above ground, and it elbows downward, like water or something would come out of there. I don't think it's a drain for the washer, because everything goes to the sewer. Anyways, any idea if it's needed to keep any of those vents unblocked? I've taken a roof rake to expose them for now, but there's so much loving snow and I look around at other people's houses and they haven't even touched their roofs. edit: our heater is also in our basement, but the exhaust for that is at the front of the house, just a 2" PVC pipe that goes straight out, no elbow. nwin fucked around with this message at 19:48 on Feb 16, 2015 |
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Feb 16, 2015 19:44
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nwin posted:Need some snow removal tips since I've never experienced this much snow before (Boston). As long as anything venting CO or CO2 is clear I would not worry much. The small amount of extra moisture is nothing compared to the generally super dry air in the winter. The vents in question sound like plumbing vents so water can drain properly. (Think how you can draw water out of a cup with a straw while holding your finger on the end, same idea). Any vents moving air with a fan will likely melt their own way through as the air is presumably heated in your home.
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Feb 16, 2015 19:50
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I wonder if that huge 4" PVC one is combustion air for something like the dryer though. Also, what about the water heater?
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Feb 16, 2015 19:54
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slap me silly posted:I wonder if that huge 4" PVC one is combustion air for something like the dryer though. Also, what about the water heater? Like an intake or something? It's on the opposite side of the house that the heater is on. Not sure a water heater would have a need for such a huge PVC pipe.
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Feb 16, 2015 19:57
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Good point. If the gas appliances are better than 80% efficient then that could be the case. I think most of the 80% efficient stuff use the ambient air for make up.
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Feb 16, 2015 19:58
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Mercury Ballistic posted:Good point. If the gas appliances are better than 80% efficient then that could be the case. I think most of the 80% efficient stuff use the ambient air for make up. Actually now that I think about it, that 4" PVC pipe is right above the water heater. What would it use that for though?
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Feb 16, 2015 20:04
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hooah posted:I don't see why that one would be a problem, though. It's always pretty cool on the first floor, since like I said we rarely go down there, and never long enough to bother touching the thermostat. If turning it down to 50 doesn't do anything though, I might just have to. By the by, mercury switch one on the other side of the duplex is working fine. I turned the downstairs thermostat to 50 yesterday evening, and when I woke up it was 64 degrees in our apartment, as it should be. I'll see if this keeps up.
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Feb 16, 2015 20:10
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Water heater is gas or electric? If gas then a vent should be sticking out of the top of the heater. Pretty obvious. Either way, I think that clearing the vents is a good idea, but if they are just vents for plumbing and are not venting toxic exhaust then dont worry too much about it. Ditto for bathroom vents. Hard to say what that big vent could be. It could be a general make up air vent for all the stuff in the house.
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Feb 16, 2015 20:16
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nwin posted:Actually now that I think about it, that 4" PVC pipe is right above the water heater. What would it use that for though? If it's a gas water heater, it needs an exhaust vent and a combustion air supply like all the other gas appliances. If it's electric it doesn't need any of that.
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Feb 16, 2015 20:17
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Mercury Ballistic posted:Water heater is gas or electric? If gas then a vent should be sticking out of the top of the heater. Pretty obvious. Either way, I think that clearing the vents is a good idea, but if they are just vents for plumbing and are not venting toxic exhaust then dont worry too much about it. Ditto for bathroom vents. I think I figured it out. The water heater isn't near it, I was mistaken. It seems to be an overflow for sewage or something or maybe just a general vent for waste water? I have two bathrooms, the toilets are next to each other on opposite sides of the walls on the main level. If you go down to the basement, you can see those two sewage pipes feed into I think the main sewer line (which is obviously underground) and that main line exits the house and I guess ties into the sewer system. In between the two toilet pipes, there is a third pipe which looks like it's the big PVC pipe (It's PVC and the same diameter-just call me sherlock). This goes up and exits the side of the house above the ground. So it's either an overflow or just something for venting I think.
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Feb 16, 2015 20:26
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nwin posted:I think I figured it out. The water heater isn't near it, I was mistaken. Could be an access for cleanout and inspection too.
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Feb 16, 2015 20:33
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It is rather unlikely that you have plumbing in your house designed to dump raw sewage above ground directly next to a wall. That would be stupid and very illegal. It sounds like a sewer line vent, which I think is pretty unusual. Keeping it clear is not particularly important. (Also, the elbow pointing down is just to help keep it clear of debris)
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Feb 16, 2015 20:47
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Two feet above ground level though? . . . does it stink?
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Feb 16, 2015 20:49
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Never noticed a stench from it, but it's at a part of the house that I never access.
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Feb 16, 2015 20:59
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slap me silly posted:Two feet above ground level though? Yup. Apparently it used to be a thing. "House trap vent" is a better name for it.
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Feb 16, 2015 21:48
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Wow. I never heard of a house trap, that vent makes a lot more sense now.
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Feb 16, 2015 21:52
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