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My Seasonic X650 is nearly silent in the hybrid semi-passive mode, but it gets a little on the warm side. The fan doesn't seem to kick even when gaming. When I turn it on the normal setting it runs cooler- but is noticeably louder. Am I shortening the lifespan of my PSU by running it in passive mode?
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# ? Jun 4, 2024 10:31 |
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lollybo posted:My Seasonic X650 is nearly silent in the hybrid semi-passive mode, but it gets a little on the warm side. The fan doesn't seem to kick even when gaming. When I turn it on the normal setting it runs cooler- but is noticeably louder. Am I shortening the lifespan of my PSU by running it in passive mode?
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So I need to remove my heat sink to clear some dust buildup out of it. Do I need to clean off and reapply thermal paste or can I just stick it back on as is?
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Gibfender posted:So I need to remove my heat sink to clear some dust buildup out of it. Do I need to clean off and reapply thermal paste or can I just stick it back on as is? You should take advantage of the cleaning and just reapply fresh thermal paste.
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Gibfender posted:So I need to remove my heat sink to clear some dust buildup out of it. Do I need to clean off and reapply thermal paste or can I just stick it back on as is?
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After struggling 2 hours with a crappy WiFi repeater, I'm seriously considering buying a PLC adaptor. Are these any good ? I might have already bought 2.
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Ledgy posted:After struggling 2 hours with a crappy WiFi repeater, I'm seriously considering buying a PLC adaptor. In general it makes a lot more sense in most cases when you need better WiFi performance to just upgrade to a better WiFi router (and adapters if needed). A high-end dual+-stream Wireless-AC router will improve performance and range for all devices, especially good Wireless-N or -AC adapters.
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The best thing to do when considering power line adapters is to find some place that will let you try some and also accept them back for a full refund. You can figure out whether the devices will work in your home's circuitry at all pretty quickly, but if they don't then you have useless devices unless you can find someone else to sell to.
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So, I have a ASUS 7850, AMD FX 8350, and 8 gigs DDR3. I have no idea why I'm getting such low fps in games like WoW, Rust and Minecraft with Feed the Beast. What gives? Would my motherboard be affecting things? I have a MSI 970a-g46.
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Den of Lies posted:So, I have a ASUS 7850, AMD FX 8350, and 8 gigs DDR3. I have no idea why I'm getting such low fps in games like WoW, Rust and Minecraft with Feed the Beast. What gives? Would my motherboard be affecting things? I have a MSI 970a-g46. Well you have a terrible CPU, though it shouldn't be hurting your performance in those particular games besides Minecraft all that much. Have you checked that the GPU isn't overheating, or did you just build this system so it's not a case of performance suddenly getting worse where it was previously ok?
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I've probably had the video card for around a year and have never seen it overheat. I've always had what I would consider sub-par performance from it though. I just assumed that it was my older processor bottlenecking it, which was a Phenom II X4 965. I just got the FX 8350 this weekend, which I hoped would have boosted my gaming performance over the processor I did have..
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Den of Lies posted:I've probably had the video card for around a year. I've always had what I would consider sub-par performance from it though. I just assumed that it was my older processor bottlenecking it, which was a Phenom II X4 965. I just got the FX 8350 this weekend, which I hoped would have boosted my gaming performance over the processor I did have.. Oog. Yeah, AMD's pace of improvement is so slow that - at least in the AMD domain - that 965, on an architecture from 2008 (seven years ago, an Age in computer terms) is still relevant. Your processor, at maximum overclock, goes toe to toe with last year's Intel i3, which takes a third of the mains draw (closer to half if you leave everything stock, but Intel's been better at race-to-idle for a while now). I mean, I get your hope for a drop-in replacement, but there really isn't one, because depending on your proximity to Microcenter you could have literally gotten a sub-Core dual-core Intel G3258 with monstrous overclocking potential and a decent overclocking board for less [EDIT] that would still overpower either of those, and occasionally both of them. dont be mean to me fucked around with this message at 22:48 on Feb 16, 2015 |
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Den of Lies posted:I've probably had the video card for around a year. I've always had what I would consider sub-par performance from it though. I just assumed that it was my older processor bottlenecking it, which was a Phenom II X4 965. I just got the FX 8350 this weekend, which I hoped would have boosted my gaming performance over the processor I did have.. Yeah the thing is that the current AMD processors are really bad. They don't perform all that much better than the Phenom II you just took out. There are lengthy articles about why that is (like this one, which is from 2011, but still applies because AMD doesn't have a new architecture yet: http://www.extremetech.com/computing/100583-analyzing-bulldozers-scaling-single-thread-performance ) but it amounts to AMD making the same mistake with their current processors that Intel made with the Pentium 4 back in the early 2000s. The thing to do for good performance is to do a new build with a cheap Intel Core processor, but that would of course mean a whole new motherboard for you.
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Maybe this is better in the tech support thread. Sorry!
Rontalvos fucked around with this message at 00:59 on Feb 17, 2015 |
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Hi everyone, I hope this is OK to ask here. My best buddy got diagnosed with cancer today and he wants to make a video diary of what's to come, just something he wants to do and he's asked me to sort him out a decent bit of kit to record these things on. My first thought was web cam but he wants not to be bothering with a PC. What I need is for it to be simple to use, HD if possible and just something he can press a button on, record stuff and press a button to stop it at the end of the day. Thanks for any help ![]()
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Sorry to hear about your buddy; I hope things work out for him. It really depends what he wants to do with the videos. Archive them for family in the future, upload and send them to people now, or something else? Go-Pro cameras seem to be the thing to use for one-person capture - they have all sorts of mounts and 'selfie-stick' attachments. They record to memory sticks, so depending on what he's going to do with the videos may determine how useful this is. Alternatively, any recent iPhone will have an easy way to record personal blog style videos, with built-in tools for sending them up to the cloud or other people. And the cameras are pretty decent quality for the size of them.
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Deanut Pancer posted:Sorry to hear about your buddy; I hope things work out for him. Thanks, it's early days. Sorry, I was a bit vague and you do raise some great questions, he wants to basically retire to a room in his house at the end of the day and just record his thoughts, to archive. I've suggested to him about having a private Youtube account and he's up for that, although it'll be me sorting it out I think, he just wants to push a button and go. I didn't even consider a Go Pro, thanks man, this looks great: Edit: Just noticed this has no rear LCD screen to view vids so is no good http://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/cameras/digital-camcorders/digital-camcorders/action-camcorders/gopro-hero-action-camcorder-10075719-pdt.html Or even: http://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/camera...075720-pdt.html I have to go out and buy it tomorrow, I am gifting it to him but he wants to get going like asap so no online buying peter gabriel fucked around with this message at 01:30 on Feb 17, 2015 |
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I've come to the conclusion that my system is most likely RAM limited since web browsers tend to crash when I have a lot of tabs open, streaming audio, running Word/Excel and doing any other significant multitasking. Games also seem to have started preferring 8 GB and I've had to lower my settings with newer stuff. I have a Core i5-760 (2.8 GHz) and 4 GB of DDR3 running at 1333 MHz (although my Asus P7P55D-E Pro claims to support RAM at 1600 MHz). Two of the mobo's four slots are filled with the 2x2 GB modules, and I'm trying to figure out the best way of upgrading to 8 or more GB of RAM. Should I just buy a kit with 2 of the 2GB modules and stick those in the open two slots bringing me to a total of 8 GB? I'm guessing this means all of the RAM would be limited to the lower 1333 MHz speed, but I don't know if this makes any real difference. This would be the cheapest option. Would it make more sense to buy 2x4 GB modules to stick in the two open slots, giving me a total of 12 GB? I don't know if this is even technically possible, would provide real world performance, or if all installed RAM modules have to be the same size. Should I just take out the current 2x2GB 1333 modules and replace them with 2x4GB 1600 modules for 8 GB total? Or, is there any real benefit to having 16 GB nowadays for gaming and having tons of different streams/browser tabs open? I could max out the mobo's supported capacity with 4x4GB modules if there's any real reason for that. Would appreciate any advice! Edit: Running Windows 7 Pro 64 bit Smilin Joe Fission fucked around with this message at 02:19 on Feb 17, 2015 |
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Smilin Joe Fission posted:I've come to the conclusion that my system is most likely RAM limited since web browsers tend to crash when I have a lot of tabs open, streaming audio, running Word/Excel and doing any other significant multitasking. Games also seem to have started preferring 8 GB and I've had to lower my settings with newer stuff. Do you plan to keep this same system for a while yet or if not then to replace it with one that still uses DDR3? You might as well spring for 16 GB now in that case,
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Nintendo Kid posted:Do you plan to keep this same system for a while yet or if not then to replace it with one that still uses DDR3? You might as well spring for 16 GB now in that case, I hope to hang onto this system for 2-3 more years at least, with a possible upgrade to Windows 10 if there looks to be any benefit at that point. I'd like to still be able to play modern games being released over the next 2-3 years with this system with midrange settings, so I'll likely end up getting a newer graphics card (to replace the current GTX 460 1GB) before long in addition to the RAM upgrade unless people feel that the 2.8GHz quad Core i5 760 CPU is still going to be too much of a bottleneck that even 8 or 16 GB of RAM and a fast video card cannot overcome. Smilin Joe Fission fucked around with this message at 02:42 on Feb 17, 2015 |
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Smilin Joe Fission posted:I hope to hang onto this system for 2-3 more years at least, with a possible upgrade to Windows 10 if there looks to be any benefit at that point. I'd like to still be able to play modern games being released over the next 2-3 years with this system with midrange settings, so I'll likely end up getting a newer graphics card (to replace the current GTX 460 1GB) before long in addition to the RAM upgrade unless people feel that the 2.8GHz quad Core i5 760 CPU is still going to be too much of a bottleneck that even 8 or 16 GB of RAM and a fast video card cannot overcome. I have an i5 750 and did the upgrade from 4GB to 16GB and an ssd couple of years ago and it made a huge difference for the better. Though right now I'd be spending money with an eye on what you can bring to your next build and that might not be much if that won't happen for a year or more.
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I'm not a hardware expert at all but I really need an answer for this: I ran speedfan and got these temps: ![]() What's AUXTIN and how can I fix this overheating issue? ![]()
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Dolphin Fetus posted:I'm not a hardware expert at all but I really need an answer for this: It's not overheating, it's just junk data from a sensor that it's trying to read that likely doesn't exist on your motherboard. Here's mine. Nothing is overheating on my system, nor is it at -128C: ![]() HWInfo is better at figuring out what your system has and displaying it with its sensor display, although it's a bit beefier software. edit: actually the bogus sensors show up in hwinfo as well but the main ones to watch are CPU and GPU, the rest are pretty hit or miss as to whether your motherboard even has them. Rexxed fucked around with this message at 06:54 on Feb 17, 2015 |
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Dolphin Fetus posted:I'm not a hardware expert at all but I really need an answer for this: If you're running Intel processors use RealTemp.
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peter gabriel posted:I think, he just wants to push a button and go.
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Flipperwaldt posted:Zoom makes some great little cameras, like th Q2HD. Though to be fair, most compact cameras these days will record great 720p video too. I recommend one with a dedicated microphone input, however. Thanks ![]() I'm going to take a drive out today and see what's out there
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Party Plane Jones posted:If you're running Intel processors use RealTemp.
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I'm sorry if this is the wrong place for this question, I don't wander into this subforum very much. I use an external HD to store music/videos/pictures from my laptop and it just died on me (Hitachi Deskstar 2 Gig in an external enclosure). I am looking at a replacement setup but am thinking about a RAID setup so I don't lose this data again. I am running Windows 7 64 bit if that makes a difference...I looked into some RAID setups and it seems that there might be a storage limit for RAID and Win7? Anyway if someone could point me to a good resource or tell me why I'm an idiot for wanting to do this, that would be great.
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Flyinglemur posted:I am running Windows 7 64 bit if that makes a difference...I looked into some RAID setups and it seems that there might be a storage limit for RAID and Win7? Information on this seems to be sketchy but from what I can find via a casual google search it sounds like the actual limitation with Win7 is you can't have a boot volume >2 TB, but a volume for storage can be any size up to 256 PB.
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Geoj posted:Information on this seems to be sketchy but from what I can find via a casual google search it sounds like the actual limitation with Win7 is you can't have a boot volume >2 TB, but a volume for storage can be any size up to 256 PB. OK thanks. That's one question down.
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Geoj posted:Information on this seems to be sketchy but from what I can find via a casual google search it sounds like the actual limitation with Win7 is you can't have a boot volume >2 TB, but a volume for storage can be any size up to 256 PB. I'm having trouble imagining how this discussion could have led here even in error. 1) I sincerely hope you mean that the RAID mirror is on the same USB terminal, because USB isn't really designed to synchronize devices on separate terminals the way RAID 1 would need it to. 2) ![]() ![]() 3) The 2TB limit isn't for system volumes, it's for MBR devices. GPT devices couldn't give less of a poo poo no matter their role, but they do require a UEFI bootpath, which requires a 64-bit version of Windows. You can get there just fine with a Windows 7 install DVD but you'll have to be able to point the firmware at it. You need to Do Stuff (easiest with Rufus) to make it work from an SD card or flash drive or whatever. 4) You're not going to be booting off of your library drive/home server/whatever you end up doing, so. 5) You aren't going to hit the 2TB limit on anything worth booting off of (read: SSDs) right now. This will probably change by this time next year, but it'll cost for a few years after it does. 6) At laptop sizes you aren't going to hit the 2TB limit on anything that fits right now. dont be mean to me fucked around with this message at 18:32 on Feb 17, 2015 |
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Sir Unimaginative posted:2) Please explain what happens in a RAID 1 array when one disk fails and the other does not. Does the mirrored data on the surviving drive cease to exist? Sounds like he wants to protect some non-vital data from a single point of failure - how would a simple RAID array not accomplish this?
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Geoj posted:Please explain what happens in a RAID 1 array when one disk fails and the other does not. Does the mirrored data on the surviving drive cease to exist? That is the only circumstance where RAID mirroring preserves data. If another part of the computer (even if it's NAS it's still a computer, just not the one you're running on) fails in a way that corrupts writes to your drive array, it'll hit both sides of the mirror equally. Also spectacular power supply failures won't necessarily respectfully only pop one drive. And corruption is harder to determine than ![]() Of course, if it's something that he can retrieve at will then who cares, keep one copy and let your delivery service be your backup. Backups of stuff you can't really replace are a good idea, but if it's just a local cache of your iTunes or Steam library or whatever you only need one local copy. Unless your Internet bandwidth is extremely American. dont be mean to me fucked around with this message at 18:38 on Feb 17, 2015 |
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We have an issue at our church I would like help with. I think I know what to do, just have never done it before, and seeing if there is anyone who might be able to make this as painless as possible. The church has two routers that service the building. Netgear N600 http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-N600-Wi-Fi-Router-WNDR3400/dp/B0041LYY6K TP-LINK Wireless 300Mbps http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-300MB...ireless+300mbps People can hook up to the wireless on Sundays freely. This was ok for a while, but the amount of connections has grown so much, the wireless is now dropping out constantly (which I assume is due to the sheer number of people connecting to it) This is an issue because the tablet based system that checks children in and out of the nursery needs the wifi to function. The easy answer is change the password and don't tell anyone what it is (my suggestion, ha ha). But, they want to continue to allow people to use the wifi, so in an effort to keep the necessary connections functional, I told them I think we should throttle the bandwidth via one of the routers and make it a "guest" connection. Maybe give them access to only 30% of the bandwidth or whatever. Basically, if their connection drops, it's not affecting the stuff vital to the function of a Sunday Morning. I am fairly familiar with networking, but haven't set up 3rd party firmware like this before. Googling the issue tells me to "Install DD-WRT on your router and make sure that you have QoS options enable QoS on a second guest router", but I was making sure this was the best option, and what the risks are, thanks. I can provide any other info you might need. TL;DR Wifi dropping due to high connection volume, need to understand how to create a guest connection with bandwidth restrictions to avoid affecting connections of vital functionality.
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Sir Unimaginative posted:That is the only circumstance where RAID mirroring preserves data. Also the circumstance he just experienced... ZenMaster posted:TL;DR Wifi dropping due to high connection volume, need to understand how to create a guest connection with bandwidth restrictions to avoid affecting connections of vital functionality. The problem is more likely an issue with too many connections on a single residential access point than a bandwidth issue. You should probably look into a managed multi-AP system, like Ubiquity UniFi, which will load-balance clients between however many APs you have and present a single SSID between all of them.
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Geoj posted:Please explain what happens in a RAID 1 array when one disk fails and the other does not. Does the mirrored data on the surviving drive cease to exist? This is exactly what I want to do. I was wondering if this was a good idea or if I was being dumb. I used to be really good with computer hardware stuff but I let it lapse and now I feel like a big dumb dummy. Again, not looking to boot from this, just keep all of my pictures/videos/music. And no, I don't have an iTunes account or Steam so recovering all of my media would be really long and hard and that's what she said. Thanks for the help everyone. Now trying to price out a RAID enclosure and drives. Think that is probably cheaper/better than going with a pre-made WD setup or something like it.
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Geoj posted:Also the circumstance he just experienced... Ubiquity is kinda low end garbage none of our clients have ever been happy with them don't put them in a real business get Ruckus, Aruba or Merakis instead.
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I would hardly call providing free internet for churchgoers on sunday as a "business setting." And unless he goes to a megachurch I doubt they're going to want to shell out several hundred dollars per AP, especially if their current wireless solution is a sub-$100 residential gateway.
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Geoj posted:I would hardly call providing free internet for churchgoers on sunday as a "business setting." Yeah, agreed, probably not, it's fairly small. Can I enable QoS on the default firmware and just priorities the tablet MAC address?
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# ? Jun 4, 2024 10:31 |
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ZenMaster posted:Can I enable QoS on the default firmware and just priorities the tablet MAC address? The problem is the access point has a finite number of connections it can manage regardless of utilization (most residential or SOHO APs can only manage a dozen or so), so even if you give critical clients priority access you will probably still have connections being dropped during peak usage. If installing infrastructure to handle the load is out of the question your only recourse is cut off access to everyone who doesn't need it or deal with dropped connections.
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