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I just got an airbrush so future floor polish is now an option for me. I know they changed the name or something recently so just to clarify, this is what I want right? Do I thin it with anything?
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Feb 17, 2015 01:08
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peeNamaste posted:I just got an airbrush so future floor polish is now an option for me. thats it and no dont thin it. You can do some pretty cool glazes if you add tiny drops of color. Make sure you flush the airbrush with a solvent after use since it will clog you up bad if left to try
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Feb 17, 2015 01:31
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Darth Walrus posted:I was thinking of getting a HG RX-78 and Zaku (or Gelgoog). What are the good, recent kits for those, if any? BlitzBlast posted:The RX-78-2 was lucky enough to get a second HG, look for the G30th version. Zaku II is more complicated, but the most recent mold of the classic design is Johnny Ridden's Zaku II High Mobility. There's a HG coming out of the Origin redesign, and that's looking neat too. The both of them also have Thunderbolt versions, which are great but super silly. You want the HG Gunpla Starter Set Vol.2. It's the G30th version of the RX-78-02 and a Gunpla marker pen.
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Feb 17, 2015 01:33
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the arios has a cool leg transformation now i don't feel so stupid i accidentally bought 2 gnhw arioses
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Feb 17, 2015 02:02
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Fauxtool posted:thats it and no dont thin it. You can do some pretty cool glazes if you add tiny drops of color. Future also mixes great with Tamiya Flat Base if you want something other than a gloss coat. And you can clean it out of your airbrush with Windex, if you don't have actual airbrush cleaner.
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Feb 17, 2015 02:15
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Suzaku posted:Future also mixes great with Tamiya Flat Base if you want something other than a gloss coat. And you can clean it out of your airbrush with Windex, if you don't have actual airbrush cleaner. The alcohol is what is important, so rubbing alcohol is also for fine for cleaning. I dont know about safe though
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Feb 17, 2015 02:29
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Mr Hobby acqueous also make an acrylic clear gloss (H30) if you want to stick it to tamiya and their prices. This is the Gelgoog I was looking into, a shop has them for about 11 a pop and it''s the design that appears in the Battlefield Record video   Also here are the HG Zaku IIs, on the left the first HGUC and in the middle the F2 version, which sadly doesn't come with a bazooka. But like they said, with the origin thing going on they might make a newer mold.  The black tri-stars zaku II on the right, which is based off the newer F2 HGUC.  Comparison between the older HGUC zaku II and the thunderbolts high mobility zaku II I think, I know dick-all about thunderbolts. I don't like troop building but for zakus, zulus, grimoires and zeon amphibious suits I'd make an exception.
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Feb 17, 2015 02:37
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Ka0 posted:Also here are the HG Zaku IIs, on the left the first HGUC and in the middle the F2 version, which sadly doesn't come with a bazooka. But like they said, with the origin thing going on they might make a newer mold. They are, and it looks outstanding!    
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Feb 17, 2015 02:45
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Ka0 posted:with the origin thing going on they might make a newer mold. Origin Zaku is coming in April and looks pretty baller:  Bit pricey at ¥1700, but detail and posability look to be well above any other HG Zaku out there. e: welp.
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Feb 17, 2015 02:54
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It's a fantastic design, but doesn't putting the missiles on top of the shield kind of defeat the point?
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Feb 17, 2015 03:30
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Son Ryo posted:It's a fantastic design, but doesn't putting the missiles on top of the shield kind of defeat the point? That Zaku is three times faster than anything else on the battlefield. It's not like it would actually get hit 
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Feb 17, 2015 03:43
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Presumably the missile pods could be emptied and/or ejected before engaging in close combat. On the other hand, this is also a thing that exists: DOWNSIDE WHAT DOWNSIDE IT'S BRILLIANT I TELL YOU.
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Feb 17, 2015 03:47
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I wouldn't say that to Gyanko's face though.
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Feb 17, 2015 03:54
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the genoace and family is really good at doing jojo crotch thrust poses if it's important to anyone (it is to me)
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Feb 17, 2015 04:54
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so my Gaia Color paints finally arrived, but now I have one final question to ask: would it be okay to use my can of white Tamiya base coat under this stuff? I know some paints have weird interactions, so i figure it's best to ask. EDIT: also Yokatta Shopping Service is being extremely quiet lately. I ordered Daibadi kit through them back in october and they still have not shipped the drat thing, and they haven't answered ANY emails from myself or my friend. I really hate this, that was atleast 100 dollars and that kit's probably not getting a second release. Diabetes Forecast fucked around with this message at 09:16 on Feb 17, 2015 |
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Feb 17, 2015 09:08
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So MG Wing Ver Ka does rule, but you guys were right about the floppy arms. I've got it in the angel pose on an action base, because it can't really do anything else. Still looks amazing though. Next on the list is either MG Sandrock or MG Deathscythe Hell.
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Feb 17, 2015 15:54
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So is it better to spray prime everything on sprues, and just paint over the extra bits of flash, or snip them all off and have to figure out what's got to be assembled afterwards?
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Feb 17, 2015 16:45
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You can prime on sprues, though it's not generally done. Standard practice is to desprue and clean up all parts first, and it's up to the modeler to determine what can be built into discrete sub-assemblies before painting and which have to be left separate. Doing full paint jobs on mecha kits pretty much requires that you figure out the final assembly on your own, since the job can involve literally hundreds of separate parts, but if a part has surfaces that will be invisible on the final build you can add the part # with a marker or scriber for later reference. Bimmi fucked around with this message at 17:49 on Feb 17, 2015 |
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Feb 17, 2015 17:04
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Colon Semicolon posted:so my Gaia Color paints finally arrived, but now I have one final question to ask: would it be okay to use my can of white Tamiya base coat under this stuff? I know some paints have weird interactions, so i figure it's best to ask. If its fine surfacer L it should be fine, I think that's their lacquer primer. I don't know about other tamiya surfacers because I discovered these things and forgot all about tamiya forever  
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Feb 17, 2015 17:11
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Bimmi posted:You can prime on sprues, though it's not generally done. Standard practice is to desprue and clean up all parts first, and it's up to the modeler to determine what can be built into discrete sub-assemblies before painting and which have to be left separate. Wouldn't that be significantly easier on MGs/other models with inner frames? Since you could just assemble it with instructions, then strip the armour off it, prime/paint/topcoat, then just fit it all back onto the inner frame?
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Feb 17, 2015 17:13
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Hijo Del Helmsley posted:Wouldn't that be significantly easier on MGs/other models with inner frames? Since you could just assemble it with instructions, then strip the armour off it, prime/paint/topcoat, then just fit it all back onto the inner frame? I basically did this when it came to my custom MG Gouf Custom; I had it sitting on my shelf unpainted, so I broke it down and painted the outsides and some of the internals that were modeled in blue for reasons. However, the armor design on the v1 Gouf mold is relatively straightforward, and the G-Cannon and Hardygun even more so, since they're no-grade 1/100s from 1992. I guess I'll just spray parts based on their order in the manual, and make sure to keep them separate. That's probably the simplest way.
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Feb 17, 2015 17:20
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Hijo Del Helmsley posted:Wouldn't that be significantly easier on MGs/other models with inner frames? Since you could just assemble it with instructions, then strip the armour off it, prime/paint/topcoat, then just fit it all back onto the inner frame? I'm not really sure what you're saying here, but painting a full MG inner frame in one go is not something I would personally do. Too many small areas that won't get covered, possible issues with paint getting in moving parts, awkward prospect in general. It's not really that hard to keep track of and re-assemble un-numbered parts once you've done it a few times, unless it's some complicated esoteric engineering nightmare like the Ex-S or whatever. And figuring out how much of the kit you can pre-assemble while still being able to easily paint those assemblies is very much part of it. For things like older no-grade kits it's kind of a different story: those kits will have lots of seam lines that have to be glued and cleaned up before any kind of painting occurs.
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Feb 17, 2015 17:45
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Bimmi posted:I'm not really sure what you're saying here, but painting a full MG inner frame in one go is not something I would personally do. Too many small areas that won't get covered, possible issues with paint getting in moving parts, awkward prospect in general. No, I was meaning painting the exterior stuff on MGs. I was thinking that the best way to do it would just be build it entirely, then remove the exterior stuff from the inner frame, paint the exterior stuff, then re-attach them. So you wouldn't have to paint it THEN work out how to build it. Anyway, now I have Wing Ver Ka, which OpMeteor MG should I get next? Gyro Zeppeli fucked around with this message at 18:59 on Feb 17, 2015 |
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Feb 17, 2015 17:48
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That's the way it's generally done but things like leg and arm frames still tend to get broken down to their larger components for better coverage and easier handling.
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Feb 17, 2015 17:52
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I'm almost always lazy as gently caress when it comes to the frames. after removing the outer bits, I separate the frames by limbs and then paint the exposed areas. I let it cure, then I bend all the joints as far as they can go and paint the areas I missed.
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Feb 17, 2015 18:16
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Hijo Del Helmsley posted:No, I was meaning painting the exterior stuff on MGs. I was thinking that the best way to do it would just be build it entirely, then remove the exterior stuff from the inner frame, paint the exterior stuff, then re-attach them. So you wouldn't have to paint it THEN work out how to build it. Heavyarms or Tallgeese, flip a coin. Then Epyon.
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Feb 18, 2015 03:34
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Bimmi posted:Presumably the missile pods could be emptied and/or ejected before engaging in close combat. On the other hand, this is also a thing that exists: I'm hoping in the future of Build Fighters, Gyanko gets with the boxer and makes him Gyan shield gloves to box with. Bimmi posted:but if a part has surfaces that will be invisible on the final build you can add the part # with a marker or scriber for later reference. You could also write the part number on a piece of masking tape around part of the skewer your going to use for painting. Tenzarin fucked around with this message at 04:14 on Feb 18, 2015 |
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Feb 18, 2015 03:44
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Tenzarin posted:I'm hoping in the future of Build Fighters, Gyanko gets with the boxer and makes him Gyan shield gloves to box with. I now have a mental image of Gundam Maxter with Gyan shield boxing gloves. You are a good man.
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Feb 18, 2015 04:19
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Finished my Gerbera Tetra. I don't think I quite got the future mix right, she came out a little too glossy   It's alright though, she matches her "big brother," who's also quite glossy.  And everything I finished. One of these days I'm going to finish that Build Burning. 
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Feb 18, 2015 05:53
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Finished the HGCC Turn-A Gundam. No painting outside of the thicker lines (like the outer sides of the thighs) and the reds of the beam rifle. Also didn't clear coat this time; I just assembled and panel-lined with a micron pen.     Also posed Turn-A with my girlfriend's custom "Bay-Mockx." She hand-painted a Hi-Mock and created a Big Hero 6 version of the suit... complete with what we call the "beam lollipops." :3  --- I also put an order with HLJ: the 1/100 Gouf... from the 1980's! I can't wait for it to get here (if it ever does!).  So awful that it can't even stand on its own two feet properly... haha. 
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Feb 18, 2015 06:38
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That Baymox is a work of goddamn art. Long live the age of the Hi-Mock custom.
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Feb 18, 2015 06:56
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It kinda matches the show though!PoptartsNinja posted:Finished my Gerbera Tetra. I don't think I quite got the future mix right, she came out a little too glossy I envy your ability to paint, I'm still on spoons. Tenzarin fucked around with this message at 07:20 on Feb 18, 2015 |
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Feb 18, 2015 06:58
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Tenzarin posted:It kinda matches the show though! I'm starting on spoons this week. Just got my airbrush. Before now it's always been hand painting and rattle cans.
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Feb 18, 2015 19:46
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Just a couple days after bitching about Gentei's lack of help on the TGIII front and they send me an e-mail saying that it's on its way. Now I just feel like an rear end in a top hat. 
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Feb 18, 2015 20:28
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Shinde posted:Also posed Turn-A with my girlfriend's custom "Bay-Mockx." She hand-painted a Hi-Mock and created a Big Hero 6 version of the suit... complete with what we call the "beam lollipops." :3 I love it.
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Feb 18, 2015 20:43
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What's everyone's battery preference? I just got the LED unit for my Nightingale and it requires an LR41. Radio Shack has the equivalent 3 pack for $13, but amazon has an Energizer 10 pack for $8 and free shipping, but the some of the reviews mention questionable quality.
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Feb 19, 2015 00:45
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It is literally never worth it to pick up batteries at a brick and mortar store. That stuff is beyond overpriced.
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Feb 19, 2015 02:25
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I continue once again to work on gundam kits at a glacial pace. Still plugging away at the mg sengoku. pretty close to finishing it, just got to paint a few more pieces.
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Feb 19, 2015 04:49
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BlitzBlast posted:It is literally never worth it to pick up batteries at a brick and mortar store. That stuff is beyond overpriced. Well, they're worth it if you need a battery RIGHT NOW, which Amazon can't ever compete with unless you live in Manhattan.
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Feb 19, 2015 05:02
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JIGEN HAOH RYU! POSE NO GUNPLA!  Shame the right hand looks so stiff. I really like this kit. I don't know if the extra bulk on the Try Burning will interfere with any shenanigans like this. But for now, it's time to take a bit of a break and work on the Winning before I bust out the MG Tallgeese III. 
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Feb 19, 2015 06:19
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