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tuna posted:And keep them greased! My friend has some QDs and unless theyre greased regularly they can be a huge pain to take out, even on the trailhead on relatively flat ground. Then he ends up with greasy as gently caress hands which gets all over his clothes and Jeep. I'm not sure if it's just his QDs which are bad, but man I would go for an Antirock over manual disconnects any day based on his experience. This is exactly why I got rid of my disconnects. Grease everywhere after connecting/disconnecting and having to find that perfectly flat spot to reconnect.
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Feb 19, 2015 23:17
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Kastivich posted:This is exactly why I got rid of my disconnects. Grease everywhere after connecting/disconnecting and having to find that perfectly flat spot to reconnect. My girlfriend has to pull the link on while I lift the jeep by the rock rail sometimes 
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Feb 19, 2015 23:19
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Astonishing Wang posted:Make sure to disconnect these when you get TO the trail. If you do much 'froadin with the sway bars still connected these will bend - my buddy just went through two pairs before he figured that out. I guess that adds more fire to the 'rough-country-sucks' camp. I'm sure they'll be fine if you take them off at the head of the trail, which is what most people do anyway Great advice, thanks. The RC ones are nearly a third the price of JKS ones, so even if I do bend a pair I'm still way ahead.
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Feb 19, 2015 23:28
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Astonishing Wang posted:My girlfriend has to pull the link on while I lift the jeep by the rock rail sometimes Yup did that. Did the drive forward two feet, drive forward two feet again thing. Lost one of the linchpins in the desert. This probably sounds a bit whiny but the Antirock is my third favorite mod after the roll cage and OBA.
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Feb 19, 2015 23:59
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I don't think an antirock is an option for those of us with a taste for the finer things* in life, though. *Dropped valveseats and broken blend doors, of course!
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Feb 20, 2015 00:02
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BoostCreep posted:Great advice, thanks. The RC ones are nearly a third the price of JKS ones, so even if I do bend a pair I'm still way ahead. They replaced them both times under the warranty, no questions asked. I wouldn't buy the JKS ones again if I was doing it over. They're fine but they're the same basic thing. Kastivich posted:Yup did that. Did the drive forward two feet, drive forward two feet again thing. Lost one of the linchpins in the desert. This probably sounds a bit whiny but the Antirock is my third favorite mod after the roll cage and OBA. How do you like the performace, aside from not having to disconnect it. Do you see the same kind of flex? How's it on the road?
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Feb 20, 2015 00:04
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Astonishing Wang posted:They replaced them both times under the warranty, no questions asked. I wouldn't buy the JKS ones again if I was doing it over. They're fine but they're the same basic thing. I think it flexes just as well as when it was disconnected. I can run it up the ramp high enough to unseat the front coils so it isn't providing any functional limit to travel. On road it is a little softer than with the sways connected. However shortly after I replaced my first-gen OME Nitrochargers with some 5100s and most of that additional lean was mitigated. On a related note, I know lots of people love the 5100 but I find them to be pretty harsh. I wish I had just spent the money for something just a bit better.
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Feb 20, 2015 00:12
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Kastivich posted:On a related note, I know lots of people love the 5100 but I find them to be pretty harsh. I wish I had just spent the money for something just a bit better.
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Feb 20, 2015 00:24
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Any of yall going to Lone Star Toyota Jamboree in April?
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Feb 20, 2015 00:43
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The antirock is also pretty drat expensive compared to disconnects. A high lift makes it pretty easy to rehook the disconnects even solo, though I've always just not run one or blew $20 on a pair of cheap OEM ones, then kept the wrenches to remove them in the center console. When they get removed at least once a month they never really get a chance to seize on.
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Feb 20, 2015 01:36
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Thank you, UPS Man  
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Feb 20, 2015 04:16
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Im probably going to swap out my rubicon electronic sway disconnect for a solid bar and get disconnects... The electronic system is such an unreliable piece of poo poo, to the point it's almost caught fire more than once.
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Feb 20, 2015 19:36
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jonathan posted:Im probably going to swap out my rubicon electronic sway disconnect for a solid bar and get disconnects... The electronic system is such an unreliable piece of poo poo, to the point it's almost caught fire more than once. When it dies I'll buy it from you! I want one and then throw on this http://www.offroadevolution.com/store/proddetail.php?prod=EVO-NOLIMITS No more having to deal with my JKS quick disconnects. Just turn the knob and BAM! disconnected. Edit: I'll trade you my solid bar and JKS disconnects for yours 
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Feb 20, 2015 19:39
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mattfl posted:When it dies I'll buy it from you! I want one and then throw on this http://www.offroadevolution.com/store/proddetail.php?prod=EVO-NOLIMITS Oh it's already dead... I burned my hand in the summer fighting sparks to disconnect the electrical connector. The mechanism still works but it has a ton of slop in it. The kicker, this is the second one, the first was replaced under warranty. My other option is that Evo kit, but the play in the mechanism is kind of annoying. How far are you from here: https://goo.gl/maps/oqWkZ
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Feb 20, 2015 21:28
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jonathan posted:Oh it's already dead... I burned my hand in the summer fighting sparks to disconnect the electrical connector. The mechanism still works but it has a ton of slop in it. The kicker, this is the second one, the first was replaced under warranty. My other option is that Evo kit, but the play in the mechanism is kind of annoying. 3,050 miles! That'd be one hell of a road trip!
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Feb 20, 2015 21:38
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Got my CB - with the 36" magnet mount, I can pick up transmissions that are pretty drat far away - I cannot, however, reach back to them.  (I miss being able to transmit at 55w, basically)
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Feb 21, 2015 07:34
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Wonder how hard it would be to get a pair of small hydraulic rams and link them together in place of a swaybar link like toyota do with the KDDS on the new 200 series?
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Feb 21, 2015 07:42
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Ferremit posted:Wonder how hard it would be to get a pair of small hydraulic rams and link them together in place of a swaybar link like toyota do with the KDDS on the new 200 series? add in a valve block. swaybars for the road, no sways for the trails. I have a schematic somewhere I drew up for the p38. I added a pump too for anti-roll on the highwya.
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Feb 21, 2015 07:45
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Why not just take an entire ACE system off a later Disco?
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Feb 21, 2015 13:46
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cursedshitbox posted:add in a valve block. swaybars for the road, no sways for the trails. I think toyota just get around it by having two hydraulic rams linked with hoses to the same port - top to top, bottom to bottom. cornering on the highway, hydraulics lock because both cylinders try to go the same direction and you get swaybars, offroad cos ones going up as the others down, the fluid moves between the two and it disconnects the swaybars. I just dont bother running a swaybar on the front of the cruiser. Rears still got one but between the 600kg constant load coils and the rear swaybar it only handles a little like a boat. Its not like 3.7T handled well with the front bar in anyway!
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Feb 21, 2015 13:51
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I think you have the hydraulic ram thing backward. If they are hooked up in the way you describe, they'll lock up under symmetric travel and be floppy otherwise. You want them crossed, one side's top to the other side's bottom.
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Feb 21, 2015 17:15
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InitialDave posted:Why not just take an entire ACE system off a later Disco? specialized components vs common off the shelf parts
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Feb 21, 2015 17:41
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Man, Antirock is too expensive! *builds overcomplicated system of interconnected pistons and hydraulic reservoirs that explodes first time you take it offroad* Problem solved 
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Feb 22, 2015 12:11
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Bent my tie rod and smashed one of my steering stabilizers yesterday but had an awesome time out wheeling.   So I'm thinking either synergy or rock krawler tie rod.
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Feb 22, 2015 12:16
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tuna posted:Man, Antirock is too expensive! *builds overcomplicated system of interconnected pistons and hydraulic reservoirs that explodes first time you take it offroad* I sure had a hell of a time installing my antirock lol. Mostly because the install instructions for all of Curry's stuff are poo poo, and I didn't have a big enough hammer.
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Feb 22, 2015 21:21
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someone earlier said their sport cage in the JK was one of their top 3 favourite mods. Why ? I mean yeah if you're in a rollover it's the best ever, but why is it so great when not tumbling down a hill ?
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Feb 23, 2015 07:10
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jonathan posted:someone earlier said their sport cage in the JK was one of their top 3 favourite mods. Why ? I mean yeah if you're in a rollover it's the best ever, but why is it so great when not tumbling down a hill ? Some of them include extra mounting points for radio/CB stuff, but beyond that, I can't imagine. It would be nice to have some windshield reinforcement in my TJ, but I don't take it down extreme stuff just yet.
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Feb 23, 2015 07:27
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jonathan posted:someone earlier said their sport cage in the JK was one of their top 3 favourite mods. Why ? I mean yeah if you're in a rollover it's the best ever, but why is it so great when not tumbling down a hill ? That was me, and in regards to a TJ. The peace of mind it gives me was worth the money. Plus mounting options for the dash bar, as mentioned. But mostly it's the security. The A to B pillar connections of the stock cage are pretty terrible.
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Feb 23, 2015 07:52
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Yeah seriously once you look at the joke of a cage Wranglers have always come with. Then start adding on the extra weight of each subsequent model. Just FYI there is no A pillar in any Wrangler ever released, just a foldable windshield frame that has a bar screwed onto it for roof functionality. I have a sports cage in my JK and it's really one of the most important upgrades. Do yourself a favor and just get someone to install a Synergy cage or similar. If you add a grill hoop to your front bumper you're much safer with rollovers and the ability to drive yourself back to safety. A stock Wrangler will use the angle between the grill/radiator area and the B-pillar to protect your head, destroying both in the process. Add padding to the B-pillar, too. I hit my head on that poo poo with large drops at very slow speed.
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Feb 23, 2015 08:19
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tuna posted:Yeah seriously once you look at the joke of a cage Wranglers have always come with. Then start adding on the extra weight of each subsequent model. Just FYI there is no A pillar in any Wrangler ever released, just a foldable windshield frame that has a bar screwed onto it for roof functionality. I have a sports cage in my JK and it's really one of the most important upgrades. Do yourself a favor and just get someone to install a Synergy cage or similar. I've got a roll bar extension as part of my future mod list for my YJ because I'd like to be able to lower my windshield AND still maintain the minor protection offered by the windshield and spreader bars.  ^basically this.
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Feb 23, 2015 13:59
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tuna posted:Add padding to the B-pillar, too. I hit my head on that poo poo with large drops at very slow speed. My torso is long enough to bump my head on the horizontal section that goes from the b pillar to the windshield 
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Feb 23, 2015 16:23
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tuna posted:Just FYI there is no A pillar in any Wrangler ever released, just a foldable windshield frame that has a bar screwed onto it for roof functionality. I have a sports cage in my JK and it's really one of the most important upgrades. Do yourself a favor and just get someone to install a Synergy cage or similar. Yeah, I should have said windshield and B pillar. I have the Synergy cage and it is really nicely done and well thought out. I was debating between Synergy and Poison Spyder. Unfortunately the Poison Spyder flat stanchions are what ruined it for me. I just don't see why I would go next to the dash when it really isnt that hard to run the bar through the dash.
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Feb 23, 2015 17:09
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Kastivich posted:Yeah, I should have said windshield and B pillar. I have the Synergy cage and it is really nicely done and well thought out. I was debating between Synergy and Poison Spyder. Unfortunately the Poison Spyder flat stanchions are what ruined it for me. I just don't see why I would go next to the dash when it really isnt that hard to run the bar through the dash. Yeah I use the PS sports cage. The flat A-pillar section might not be the strongest but in mine it is welded and bolted to the tub floor and also bolted into the tub next to the dash, and then it is braced across below the windshield which feels good enough to me. It is still a bit of a pain because despite being flat there it does slightly stick out and hits the door when the door is closed. Not a huge deal but it makes a little bit of noise when everything is being shaken around. It's basically "good enough" until you have money for a full cage or Synergy
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Feb 23, 2015 19:42
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Just about anything seems better than just using the windshield as protection. Most images I see of even "soft" rolls in a wrangler involve the windshield caving in.
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Feb 27, 2015 20:09
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Sandbagger SA posted:Just about anything seems better than just using the windshield as protection. Most images I see of even "soft" rolls in a wrangler involve the windshield caving in. Yeah, me and a buddy is modifying the rollbars on our rag top hummers because I don't trust the OEM windshield system to keep 6-8000lbs of truck off me if I ever wind rubber side up. Although it's more likely I have to worry about a wayward boulder crashing down from above while wheeling in rocks.  We didn't want to mess with the factory setup, and trying to get steel to mate up with aluminum so we ran a 2" tube behind the Aluminum windshield/A-pillar and reinforced the B/C pillar rollbars with 2" and 1.5" tube. We left the factory padding alone [tan] with holes cut to fit the new crossmembers, and went to summit racing to get SFI roll bar padding which we're holding in place with zip ties at the moment. Seems to work really well. Once I get back stateside I have to do the same with my truck but I got a monsoon sound bar in the way of my a-pillar. I may remove it and sell the unit and custom fabricate a few speaker pods to make more room for practical poo poo and move my 2m and cb radio up in the middle. Hopefully I'm back in California in May/June, so I can go ahead and finish my engine swap on my H1, get everything back up to spec and hit the trails again, I miss wheeling. Any good trails in central Oregon? I'm looking at a job out that way as an option.
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Mar 7, 2015 08:12
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Big K of Justice posted:Yeah, me and a buddy is modifying the rollbars on our rag top hummers because I don't trust the OEM windshield system to keep 6-8000lbs of truck off me if I ever wind rubber side up. Although it's more likely I have to worry about a wayward boulder crashing down from above while wheeling in rocks. How did you end up dealing with the alu/steel mix with this? Bolt it on or weld to the frame?
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Mar 7, 2015 23:06
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tuna posted:How did you end up dealing with the alu/steel mix with this? Bolt it on or weld to the frame? Bolt it on. The Factory civilian roll bars are steel and are bolted into the aluminum bits via a sleeve for the B pillar, a gasket for the C pillar and rubber grommet for the A Pillar. We welded to those 3 bars, that way you could still take the whole rollbar assembly apart if you had to. The HMMWV's don't have the side roll bars like the H1's do, at least the unarmored ones. The hard top trucks are different, it's a huge slab of steel on the roof, and I've seen those roll over a few times with nothing more than a small dent on top. Assuming the engine still turns over, you can flip it over and drive off with it in theory. Another option is to build a rollbar body like the scorpion 4x4, something I wouldn't mine doing some day with a surplus hmmwv chassis since they are dropping in price on the surplus market. Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 00:38 on Mar 8, 2015 |
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Mar 8, 2015 00:34
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Hey SoCal people, don't forget this Saturday is our Cleghorn wheeling trip. Come on out and break stuff with us. More info on the Facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/groups/socalai/
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Mar 10, 2015 22:40
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BoostCreep posted:Hey SoCal people, don't forget this Saturday is our Cleghorn wheeling trip. Come on out and break stuff with us. More info on the Facebook page. I'm super pissed to miss out on this trip due to my stupid freeze plug issues, but had a thought - I'm not familiar with Cleghorn/if it's a round trip, but if anyone has an extra seat and is returning back by the meetup point I'd love to catch a ride. I could meet up with you guys at the Shell station and bring along the camera and GoPro - guaranteed fresh articulation photos for a willing driver
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Mar 11, 2015 06:03
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I CAN'T WAIT
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Mar 12, 2015 19:23
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