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 Mike Comadina by Winston85, on Flickr Shot on Kodachrome in 1953 by my grandfather. Pearl Harbor Bar, Dawson City, Yukon, Canada. Mike becomes Mayor of Dawson City in 1970. The Pearl Harbour Hotel burned down in the spring of 1976.
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Feb 9, 2015 07:41
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^^^^ Thats rad, keep posting more of them. So I tried the Argyrotype again and had a few frustrating hours the other day. Tried some of the fancy Arches hot pressed paper and pretty lovely results with the image literally coming of the page during dev/fix/toning leaving me with next to nothing on the page. I tried a bunch of different approaches with it and nothing worked, and that scan makes it look better than it is. So I did a quick and dirty test with some Epson Inkjet paper I have and bingo, it worked pretty well, not washed out, but I think the dynamic range of the negs is a bit much for the printing process. Epson left, Arches right  Argyrotype Tests by mr_student, on Flickr
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Feb 9, 2015 12:19
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Spedman posted:^^^^ Thats rad, keep posting more of them. I don't know how argyrotype emulsion compares to cyanotype, but I've been having good luck with no name heavy sketchbook paper for my proofs. Thinking about playing with rice paper next. Did you do any sizing beforehand?
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Feb 9, 2015 21:56
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ExecuDork posted:Your local lab may be great, but don't send B&W to a lab for development. Do it yourself.  and get digital files for free, or nice prints for another . In my mind it works cheaper than doing it myself, and I'm cheap bastard.I found roll of expired Kodak Tmax 400, and bought a roll of HP5+. I should get on shooting instead of posting on forums! I'll definitely do it when I have the money.
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Feb 9, 2015 23:58
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but how much are a packet of d-76 and fixer powder? The Modern Sky fucked around with this message at 00:24 on Feb 10, 2015 |
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Feb 10, 2015 00:19
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not to mention you don't have to wait for it to come back!
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Feb 10, 2015 01:09
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voodoorootbeer posted:I don't know how argyrotype emulsion compares to cyanotype, but I've been having good luck with no name heavy sketchbook paper for my proofs. Thinking about playing with rice paper next. Did you do any sizing beforehand? I haven't been doing any sizing, but I really need to dig through my alt processing book to double check as to whether I need to or not, and also what the recommended papers are again. What are you expecting to get from the rice paper? Also, this is pretty much the Argyrotype process, and these guys have a number of great alt-processing videos going through the steps of each one. Everyone who's into analog should check them out anyway: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cof_cfC3jss
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Feb 10, 2015 03:35
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Spedman posted:What are you expecting to get from the rice paper? Satisfaction of my curiosity, mostly.
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Feb 10, 2015 05:19
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A good a reason as any other, have you looked at using fabrics at all for the cyanotypes?
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Feb 10, 2015 05:26
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Had another crack at the Argyrotypes after work today, and was pretty happy with the result. I went through some older negatives and found one that looked like it'll work, and I think I've got a decent idea now on how the neg should look for a reasonable print. Also this one is selenium toned: Docklands by mr_student, on Flickr
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Feb 10, 2015 12:33
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KEH got the bad lens back from me on the 6th, and has the new one on its way as of today. Very nice  I also put the winder to use this weekend and drat it is fun. DJExile fucked around with this message at 22:54 on Feb 10, 2015 |
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Feb 10, 2015 22:52
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ExecuDork posted:17x14 is enormous, I have worked with those X-ray sheets (years ago) and I have fond memories. Anyway, if you have, can get, or can build a light table big enough for them, you can easily digitize them with even a basic digital camera and some ingenuity. Ok so I tried it out, the camera I have is an old high school trip gift Panasonic DMC-TZ3. It got the general idea but I kinda wish I could get a better image.  Any suggestions on a way to pick up the more heavily exposed, black sides of the film without the middle lighter exposed areas just ending up as a big bright glare?
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Feb 14, 2015 20:24
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Understanding posted:but how much are a packet of d-76 and fixer powder?
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Feb 15, 2015 23:43
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Kivi posted:I looked into that and lowest I could find was $50 (super fun euroland) and that's before getting a scanner and scanning & sharing them to my Internet friend. Now I have to settle handing out really nice prints, which is awful with the all human contact. $50? What the gently caress are you talking about? http://www.macodirect.de/chemistry-blackwhite-film-developer-kodak-kodak-76brdeveloper-liter-p-2119.html http://www.macodirect.de/chemistry-blackwhite-fixing-bath-kodak-kodak-powder-fixer-p-3181.html A scanner pays for itself really quickly if you're no longer paying .
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Feb 16, 2015 02:30
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MrBlandAverage posted:$50? What the gently caress are you talking about? No joke, I have easily gotten my money's worth out of my V500. Get a drat scanner, get some drat chemicals, and start making poo poo.  Untitled by Dev Luns, on Flickr
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Feb 16, 2015 02:40
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MrBlandAverage posted:$50? What the gently caress are you talking about? quote:Minimum purchase: quote:Zone 4: United Kingdom, Italy, Sweden, Finland, France  Yeah, sure there's other shops too on the Internet, but I'll buy them locally when I can afford them. E: The local uni photography club does group buys on that site, investigating. Thanks! Kivi fucked around with this message at 00:50 on Feb 17, 2015 |
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Feb 16, 2015 19:34
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Kivi posted:I looked into that and lowest I could find was $50 (super fun euroland) and that's before getting a scanner and scanning & sharing them to my Internet friend. Now I have to settle handing out really nice prints, which is awful with the all human contact. http://www.fotoimpex.de/shopen/ They're the best shop for analogic stuff in Europe basically. If you're not stuck with D-76 get some adonal for 10 or so euros and that will last forever. Also great and cheap for film
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Feb 17, 2015 03:53
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Delta 3200 is something I'm really starting to like shooting. Open 7 Days by Paul Frederiksen, on Flickr
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Feb 17, 2015 05:56
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Let's see how tough this camera is. It seems to be built solid. Bought it for taking photos while doing tough mudder this year, I wonder how it would do there.. Although I'm wary about throwing it in mud. 
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Feb 18, 2015 03:46
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You got the wrong Nikonos, that one's plastic.
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Feb 18, 2015 03:53
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Feels metal enough 
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Feb 18, 2015 04:15
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I'm really starting to fall in love with this Delta 3200. Untitled by Paul Frederiksen, on Flickr
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Feb 19, 2015 04:05
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Pukestain Pal posted:I'm really starting to fall in love with this Delta 3200. ++ this is cool photo Is that snow, or grainy fog? Either way it looks great
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Feb 19, 2015 15:12
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polyfractal posted:++ this is cool photo A little of both. It was snowing, but a bit foggy as well. Thanks!
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Feb 19, 2015 16:55
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My brother got me a Lomo Konstruktor SLR kit for Christmas and I just developed the test roll out of it. It's very limited in where you can use it because it's fixed at f10 and 1/80s. This is some Kodak Gold 400 that was developed using a way past its prime C-41 kit (the shadows came out incredibly grainy). Most of the photos were poo poo but I really wanted to post something here just so I could annoy the purists with my lomo camera 
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Feb 20, 2015 17:55
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My Olympus XA2 is being all weird. The green "low-light" light is on all the time and whenever I take a photo the shutter stays open for a full two seconds regardless of what the light is like or the ISO settings are. Has anyone any idea what could be up? I got it sent to me from the US to Europe from someone in the buy and sell thread so hopefully it's survived the journey ok.
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Feb 20, 2015 18:16
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Sounds like a light meter issue? 2 sec is prob the min shutter speed
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Feb 20, 2015 18:42
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Yeah I think 1 or 2 seconds is the slowest it'll go. Battery good?
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Feb 20, 2015 18:57
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Yeah, I put in a pair of fresh SR44 batteries in today.
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Feb 20, 2015 19:12
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Yeah my bet is something's hosed your meter. If you've got a local service shop I might take it there to see if they can have a look at it.
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Feb 21, 2015 00:04
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Tri-X loving rules. Untitled by Dev Luns, on Flickr
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Feb 21, 2015 02:08
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pootiebigwang posted:Tri-X loving rules. Does your 120 Tri-X curl like a motherfucker? Mine curls like a motherfucker even though the 135 Tri-X isn't problematic at all. I finally relented and bought a betterscanning holder.
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Feb 21, 2015 02:15
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mulls posted:Does your 120 Tri-X curl like a motherfucker? Mine curls like a motherfucker even though the 135 Tri-X isn't problematic at all. I finally relented and bought a betterscanning holder. Yes it curls like a motherfucker. TMAX and Acros are so much better.
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Feb 21, 2015 02:17
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mulls posted:Does your 120 Tri-X curl like a motherfucker? Mine curls like a motherfucker even though the 135 Tri-X isn't problematic at all. I finally relented and bought a betterscanning holder. Mine never curls, I am pretty sure the reason people are getting curls is due to the humidity (or maybe lack of?) in a room caused by the ac/heater running. I dry mine out in a bathroom that is closed off with a window open and it dries as flat as can be. Acros and Ilford films dry fine without a window being open, but I always leave it open for Tri-x and it works marvelously. Edit: I also don't know if any of the science behind that is sound, but it definitely works for me.
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Feb 21, 2015 02:33
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alkanphel posted:Yes it curls like a motherfucker. TMAX and Acros are so much better. TMax isn't much more expensive than Tri-X, and I'm starting to think it's the smarter choice for 120. I like Tri-X's grain a lot more, but 120 doesn't really have grain so who cares if the grain structure is nicer?
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Feb 21, 2015 02:57
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pootiebigwang posted:I dry mine out in a bathroom that is closed off with a window open and it dries as flat as can be. Depending on where you live and what time of year it is, I have no idea if that increases or decreases humidity and temp. Mine seems to curl on me no matter what I do.
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Feb 21, 2015 06:27
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mulls posted:TMax isn't much more expensive than Tri-X, and I'm starting to think it's the smarter choice for 120. I like Tri-X's grain a lot more, but 120 doesn't really have grain so who cares if the grain structure is nicer? TMAX does eat through fixer pretty fast though. I will probably switch to Ilford when my stock of TMAX finishes.
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Feb 21, 2015 07:23
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mulls posted:I like Tri-X's grain a lot more, but 120 doesn't really have grain so who cares if the grain structure is nicer? If you don't see grain on your 120 Tri-X negatives, then you are not shooting it right. ...Or more accurately, you are shooting it right.
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Feb 21, 2015 08:53
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DJExile posted:Yeah my bet is something's hosed your meter. If you've got a local service shop I might take it there to see if they can have a look at it. Dang, at this stage I've spent a few quid getting a replacement battery door and I have a working XA as well so I don't really want to sink any more cash into it. I saw someone with a similar problem elsewhere and someone in the comments said it was an easy fix and linked to another site but unfortunately the link is dead, I was hoping someone might have experience with these cameras. I might try opening it up myself and seeing if I can do anything. Edit: found something! My multimeter is dead unfortunately but I'll see if I can do something about it. crap nerd fucked around with this message at 18:09 on Feb 21, 2015 |
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Feb 21, 2015 15:00
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So my Pentax 6x7 burns through its battery in just minutes after I shoot a couple frames with it. This is a new issue. Any idea where I can start looking for where the issue is?
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Feb 21, 2015 18:24
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