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Dunked it in Simple Green overnight then went to town with a stainless steel brush under running water.
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Feb 25, 2015 09:58
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BlitzBlast posted:Dunked it in Simple Green overnight then went to town with a stainless steel brush under running water. I think I see the problem here. I've never used Simple Green to strip paint but I've had good results on old coats with Easy Lift-off. Regardless, a wire brush is in no way a suitable tool to use on plastic model parts unless your goal is to chew them right the hell up. Bimmi fucked around with this message at 10:12 on Feb 25, 2015 |
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Feb 25, 2015 10:08
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If I wanted it to look nice I would have sanded everything off, but that takes literally forever so I just went gently caress it. And hey, it worked. I actually tried to order Easy Lift off earlier but the supplier never shipped it so Amazon refunded me. EDIT: I do have to say that the scratches from a wire brush would look pretty decent if I was trying to weather something though. BlitzBlast fucked around with this message at 10:19 on Feb 25, 2015 |
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Feb 25, 2015 10:16
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Sanding it off is almost as bad. Any abrasive short of a fine powder is a destructive force to be used carefully and only when absolutely necessary IMO. You really shouldn't use anything harder than Bon Ami and a nylon toothbrush to scrub old paint. I'd strongly recommend giving Easy Lift-Off another shot if you can. It does pretty much exactly what it says, it gets under the paint and lifts it off the plastic, turning into a kind of soggy "skin" that you can often wipe away with minimal effort. Easy peasy, good poo poo. Bimmi fucked around with this message at 10:43 on Feb 25, 2015 |
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Feb 25, 2015 10:40
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BlitzBlast posted:Dunked it in Simple Green overnight Cool, thanks. And yeah, I'm planning on soaking it in Fairy Power Spray for a little bit and then going at it with a regular toothbrush, which is what I've used to strip plastic miniatures before. I've sprayed a bunch of old runners to see how long I need to leave them to soak before the paint can be stripped/they start warping so we'll see, but I just wanted to make sure plamo plastics wouldn't react badly to the usual stuff for some reason. Sadly, Testors Easy Lift-Off doesn't exist over here in the UK. Lemon-Lime fucked around with this message at 10:53 on Feb 25, 2015 |
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Feb 25, 2015 10:50
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Better shot of the painted Winning Real Mode.
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Feb 25, 2015 10:53
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Lemon Curdistan posted:Sadly, Testors Easy Lift-Off doesn't exist over here in the UK. That is ironic, given that it apparently goes by the name "PollyScale Easy Lift-Off" these days, and PollyScale is the revised brand name of the much-missed and excellent Polly-S acrylic paints which were bought out some time ago by Testors but originated in, you guessed it, the UK. Some chemical issue, I'm sure, though as industrial solvents go ELO seems fairly innocuous in terms of its odorific and caustic qualities. You don't want leave it on parts for more than 24 hours though or they will get plastic cancer, and there is no recovering from that short of buying a new kit.
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Feb 25, 2015 11:13
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Lemon Curdistan posted:
You probably missed it from the old thread, but when I had to strip paint off my model I ended up using Mr Muscle Oven Cleaner. Let it soak for a few hours and then used a toothbrush. Worked a charm.
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Feb 25, 2015 11:18
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Bimmi posted:That is ironic, given that it apparently goes by the name "PollyScale Easy Lift-Off" these days, and PollyScale is the revised brand name of the much-missed and excellent Polly-S acrylic paints which were bought out some time ago by Testors but originated in, you guessed it, the UK. Yeah. Sadly, as far as I can tell, the entirety of Testors' range is mostly unavailable in the UK. Outside of a couple of hobby shops carrying the smaller Dullcote cans we're SOL. runwiled posted:You probably missed it from the old thread, but when I had to strip paint off my model I ended up using Mr Muscle Oven Cleaner. Let it soak for a few hours and then used a toothbrush. Worked a charm. I did miss it - thanks! Fairy Power Spray is the same kind of oven cleaner so that bodes pretty well. edit: in other news, post arrived this morning:  Which adds to the pile of stuff I have that I haven't assembled yet:  (The Zaku II F2 is the one whose torso needs stripping, I'd originally painted it because contrary to all the promo images the plastic isn't actually white, it's some kind of disgusting off-pink.) ...which itself adds to the pile of "stuff that's assembled but still needs sanding, painting and panel lining":  (I need to decide whether to maul the Stark Jegan's shoulder armour to make it look like it's jettisoned the launchers, which was my original idea when I bought the kit, or whether to just stick them on as-is and give it the bazooka/shoulder-mounted launchers to make it look less silly.) Oh, and I have a MG Tallgeese I still in the post, so I should probably stop buying stuff. 
Lemon-Lime fucked around with this message at 12:11 on Feb 25, 2015 |
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Feb 25, 2015 11:35
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I dunno about gunpla, but back when I collected 40k, we'd use brown Dettol to strip paint. Just fill a jar with it, put the parts in, leave it overnight then scrub them with an old toothbrush. Problem is it makes the room stink like a hospital.
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Feb 25, 2015 12:01
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Oven cleaner is a pretty decent stripper, but be aware that it's not especially benign to biological organisms — it won't fill a room with fumes generally but you don't want to be too close to it while it's sitting either, and any sort of skin contact is definitely not advised.
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Feb 25, 2015 12:22
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Neddy Seagoon posted:Yeah, and the G-Saviour was a (very nice) two-minute cameo. I'm not saying it's bad that it's gotten screentime, just its placement. They'd get a much better showing of it going to town killing random customs/grunts in a background fight. Or hell, against literally any other team. Instead its going up against no less than three Particle-gimmick Gundams that have a very real chance of going "gently caress you, no touchies" and no-sell every weapon it has. G-Saviour? As in the Gundam from that live action movie? What the hell I should watch Build Fighters.  I mean I'd watch Build Fighters, but I fear I'll end up like the goon with the 30+ kit backlog.
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Feb 25, 2015 14:26
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Fairy Power Spray did nothing to the test runners when they were left in there for two hours, which is good. Unfortunately, it also did jack poo poo to the paint, which is less good. I'm confident enough about the lack of damage to the actual plastic that I've gone ahead and pulled it apart and dropped it in a glass full of the stuff to soak for four hours. If the paint still isn't flaking in four hours, I'll see about either an overnight soak or Dettol/Mr Clean.
Lemon-Lime fucked around with this message at 15:16 on Feb 25, 2015 |
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Feb 25, 2015 14:47
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Always good with any paint stripper to first use a junk piece (sprue, ideally) and see how it does but 2-4 hours is not enough for anything to happen even with good ones. I've generally found a 10-14 hour soak to be good, any more than that and you're into somewhat careful territory in my experience. If you're trying to strip acrylics only, be aware that ordinary window cleaner will take that poo poo right off unless it is years old, and in the ever-more unlikely event that you need to strip chrome from a part an overnight soak in household bleach will do just fine. Bimmi fucked around with this message at 15:44 on Feb 25, 2015 |
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Feb 25, 2015 15:10
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Bimmi posted:Always good with any paint stripper to first use a junk piece (sprue, ideally) and see how it does but 2-4 hours is generally not enough for anything to happen even with good ones. I'm used to acetone-free nail polish remover on metals/Citadel paints, which usually takes a whole 10 minutes before you can go to town with a toothbrush. This is Tamiya Color for Aircraft spray stuff, so I have no idea how sturdy it is. e; vv yeah, which is exactly why I keep it the hell away from plastic, and am not using it in this case. 
Lemon-Lime fucked around with this message at 15:32 on Feb 25, 2015 |
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Feb 25, 2015 15:13
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There's a specific modeling term to describe acetone-based nail polish remover, and that is "plastic cement and/or welder." I've no experience with the acetone-free sort, which I never knew about before now, but anything designed to rapidly scour lacquer off keratin is not something i would apply to styrene without testing it first.
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Feb 25, 2015 15:20
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Lemon Curdistan posted:(I need to decide whether to maul the Stark Jegan's shoulder armour to make it look like it's jettisoned the launchers, which was my original idea when I bought the kit, or whether to just stick them on as-is and give it the bazooka/shoulder-mounted launchers to make it look less silly.) Why would you ever want the Stark Jegan to not have the ridiculous shoulder launchers? That's the charm of it. (Also come on Bandai, throw me an MG Jegan already jeez) Also, looks like that extra cheap Nightingale got cancelled on account of a 'pricing error'. Lame as hell.
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Feb 25, 2015 15:42
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I've never really understood the appeal of the Stark Jegan. Usually heavy-armor options make a thing look cooler but in this case I don't see it. Totally agree about the MG tho, and if we don't get it this year for the Zeta 30th anno it's gonna be a goddamn crime.
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Feb 25, 2015 15:52
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ACES CURE PLANES posted:Why would you ever want the Stark Jegan to not have the ridiculous shoulder launchers? That's the charm of it. Bimmi posted:I've never really understood the appeal of the Stark Jegan. Usually heavy-armor options make a thing look cooler but in this case I don't see it. Counterpoint: the nameless pilot in the Stark Jegan that lasts a minute against the Kshatriya at the start of Unicorn.  The extra armour and the backpack booster make the Jegan look way cooler to me, the shoulder launchers just look doofy.
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Feb 25, 2015 16:05
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I personally love the Stark Jegan, though admittedly I prefer the original MSV lineart as opposed to the Katoki Unicorn version. They should release that as a kit, giant-rear end missiles and all.
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Feb 25, 2015 16:08
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Mecha Gojira posted:I personally love the Stark Jegan, though admittedly I prefer the original MSV lineart as opposed to the Katoki Unicorn version. They should release that as a kit, giant-rear end missiles and all. I like the regular Jegan the most but that said I really want this version in a kit:  Missiles 
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Feb 25, 2015 16:11
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Jegan is one of if not my very favorite GM variations but the Stark addons just look lovely and tacked-on, which maybe is the point? I agree however that giant missiles are a good look for it. Bimmi fucked around with this message at 18:49 on Feb 25, 2015 |
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Feb 25, 2015 16:55
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I've had success stripping paint (specifically Tamiya Spray) By soaking the parts in dot3 brake fluid for 24 hours, and then gently scrubbing with a toothbrush (not the one you use on your teeth dummy). One 24 hour+ scrub took off the layer of clear red, and another took off the layer of chrome underneath. Didn't hurt the plastic or make it brittle or anything. I highly recommend it.
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Feb 25, 2015 19:12
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peeNamaste posted:I've had success stripping paint (specifically Tamiya Spray) By soaking the parts in dot3 brake fluid for 24 hours, and then gently scrubbing with a toothbrush (not the one you use on your teeth dummy). One 24 hour+ scrub took off the layer of clear red, and another took off the layer of chrome underneath. Didn't hurt the plastic or make it brittle or anything. I highly recommend it. Consequently, this is also an excellent method for removing the special coating on shiny metallic parts if you want to actually paint them. Think the Hyper Mode G kits, One of the Hyaku Shiki releases, some of the Strike Freedom parts, etc.
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Feb 25, 2015 19:20
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Bimmi posted:Jegan is one of if not my very favorite GM variations but the Stark addons just look lovely and tacked-on, which maybe is the point? I've always been a fan of the Guncannon II from 0083 but they'll never make a MG of it to go with my GM Custom.
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Feb 25, 2015 20:08
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I might have to scratch the clear parts to get them into that hue of green but I like them better, 
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Feb 25, 2015 20:33
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I Dettol Tamiya paint all the time. I pour some in a plastic takeaway tray with a drop of water, put the stuff in and put a lid on top for 24 hours and its good to go.
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Feb 25, 2015 21:28
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I'm waiting for the insane Japanese customizer who replaces the green parts with clear green parts and actually models in the little turbine things underneath.
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Feb 25, 2015 21:43
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Ka0 posted:I might have to scratch the clear parts to get them into that hue of green but I like them better, There are basically three good ways to get that frost effect on the beam parts: -- water-buff it out with a soft toothbrush and fine scouring powder. Brush along the length of the part on both sides until it gets that gauzy appearance (note: may take a gently caress of a long time) – spray it with a flat clearcoat. Nothing will fog your clear poo poo up faster than this, which is bad if you're building a car but often good for Gundams. – wet it up with a thin corrosive solution like Bestine or even paint thinner and let dry. I like this method best even though it's kind of tricky and also fairly fuckin' incovenient. I think a good effect would be doable with sandpaper alone if you really know your poo poo but most people don't. I'm kind of curious what a wire brush might do on it tho. Bimmi fucked around with this message at 22:22 on Feb 25, 2015 |
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Feb 25, 2015 21:55
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Bimmi posted:There are basically three good ways to get that frost effect on the beam parts: Flat topcoat confirmed for making clear effects parts seem lighter.
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Feb 25, 2015 22:37
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 Wait can the Hi Nu Vrabe go Trans Am?
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Feb 25, 2015 23:19
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No, the Cancer that is trans-am kits is leaking into build fighters!
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Feb 26, 2015 00:15
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Tenzarin posted:No, the Cancer that is trans-am kits is leaking into build fighters! Why sell one kit when you can sell one kit twice? Except to no one.
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Feb 26, 2015 00:16
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It's amazing how many 00 kits there actually were.
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Feb 26, 2015 00:52
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Bimmi posted:It's amazing how many 00 kits there actually were. I'm still sad I never got a 1/100 Virtue before it became more expensive than a chunk of modern MGs.
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Feb 26, 2015 00:59
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Bimmi posted:It's amazing how many 00 kits there actually were. All those kits and they never made a Realdo or Flag orbit type. What a waste of good mecha design.
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Feb 26, 2015 01:17
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BlitzBlast posted:
Thats the upgraded Hi Nu Vrabe. Still find it hilarious he went from that to the zaku amazing. Its like he purposely gimped himself.
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Feb 26, 2015 01:30
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Bimmi posted:It's amazing how many 00 kits there actually were. And they never made the Seravee Gundam GNHW/3G. C'mon, Bandai!
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Feb 26, 2015 04:24
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Triggerhappypilot posted:All those kits and they never made a Realdo or Flag orbit type. What a waste of good mecha design. it blows my mind than they never made a gn flag.
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Feb 26, 2015 04:35
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So I got inspired today and finally finished snapping out the Gundam 3.0 I started a year ago: His head, which he has been without for longer than I care to admit, is almost more complex by itself than most of the kits I was building 25 years ago, but much like those old days I managed to build it without once looking at the instructions (still got it I guess, whatever "it" is exactly) This was one hell of a frustrating model, ultimately. Visually it's amazing, as close to real as these things ever get, but structurally it's kind of a disaster. He doesn't have his shield here because I think it may take an act of Congress to make it actually stay on. e: and can I just say how much I hate these loving Emotion Manipulators? Nice concept, terrible execution. I really wish they'd included some fixed-pose hands here. Bimmi fucked around with this message at 05:31 on Feb 26, 2015 |
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Feb 26, 2015 04:37
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