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Budget Monty posted:If you take a hobby serious enough to end up as a competitor there, tire cost is the last think on your mind, you are a real competitor, and having the right equipment to be #1 for your driving style, far outweighs the cost difference on RC car tires. Well I was a competitor at several of the Reedy TC races and various big races in Vegas, and I went on a budget (5 racers to a hotel room, sharing 7-hour rides, etc.), not really intending to spend $50 per set of tires that would last 1 run (Pro-Line S3's, Reedy TC race in Ripon), or maybe 2 runs at best (Yokomo rounded 24mm tires, etc.). I wasn't running in the top heats, I would be racing 14-year olds in the J Main and begging and borrowing to get a set of tires so I could go a tiny bit faster. I'm much more realistic now about my abilities back then, but it was just ridiculous. Nowadays TC racers have a limited number of sets and they'll swap sets as they need to get fast runs in at the right time of day, it's much different. It's just interesting to me that off-road racers are finally taking on board the stuff that TC racers figured out years ago, and that European races are so heavily influencing the big US races now, whereas 10-20 years ago the situation was definitely reversed. There's still quite a split between the US and EU style of races and racing.
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Feb 13, 2015 11:30
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I remember just prior to the Lithium takeover of racing the reason that NiMH were going off like shotguns were in large measure due to people dumping like 10 amp charges onto them for the last 60 seconds order so and heating them to a higher temperature so that they could have an advantage for those first few laps with some extra zip. A friend that went to the IIC race in Vegas the last year before LiPo took over said batteries were venting all over the pits. The photos were amazing; there would be nothing left except a shadow where a cell used to be. A lot can be said about touring car tires though. While on carpet the rubber tires can still seem like they are hooking up and driving great if you are consistent enough of a driver a new set of tires will take a few tenths off per lap which is huge with carpet racing. To illustrate have a look at one of the qualifying rounds from the most recent ETS race in Germany. Those lap times are ridiculous: http://ets.redrc.net/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/ETSRd2ModQ2-620x372.jpg
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Feb 13, 2015 19:17
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So, on the subject of NiMH packs and exploding due to charging... The pack that came with my Raider is a 2000 mAh stick. The back of it advises against charging it higher than 1C (I Think it's 1C). Is that just a precautionary thing? The way i've been reading and interpreting this thread and the like, I should safely be able to do a 2A charge on it, right? Or should I just stick to 1A? Educate me on batteries! (Please  )
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Feb 14, 2015 21:18
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T1g4h posted:So, on the subject of NiMH packs and exploding due to charging... The pack that came with my Raider is a 2000 mAh stick. The back of it advises against charging it higher than 1C (I Think it's 1C). Is that just a precautionary thing? The way i've been reading and interpreting this thread and the like, I should safely be able to do a 2A charge on it, right? Or should I just stick to 1A? Educate me on batteries! (Please I'm with you here. I just bought a Stampede 4x4 and picked up a pair of these for it: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__20585__Turnigy_nano_tech_6600mah_2S2P_65_130C_Hardcase_Lipo_Pack.html It seems like lots of people recommend 25C-30C but I thought bigger was better. Have I made a mistake buying 65-130C batteries?
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Feb 15, 2015 02:34
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I gotta say, putting this TT01E together for the first time is goddamn time consuming. Kind of glad I haven't bought the electronics yet - they'd just be sitting around literally gathering dust. Side note, I really should clean my desk in my study - I've got too much poo poo on this desk, which resulted in me having to assemble the kit on the kitchen table, which in turn means that I cant actually use that table for anything until I'm done due to potentially losing parts (unlikely, but still) which will undoubtedly piss me off. If I do drift this thing, those diffs need to go - wonder if there are lockable/LS type diffs around. [edit] Yep, first result when searching for something comes up with a 3racing diff which basically looks like a solid axle conversion of some sort. YR do something too, but it just uses the existing housing. Interesting. I really need to focus, get this car built and play before I start upgrading anything. KingPave fucked around with this message at 04:01 on Feb 15, 2015 |
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Feb 15, 2015 03:58
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What do the TT01-D versions use for diffs?
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Feb 15, 2015 18:37
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They use normal gear diffs, but Tamiya do a ball diff as well.
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Feb 15, 2015 19:10
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[/b ] started working on splitting the controls for this derpy little sub. It'll be killer easy to mount a few servos up front to control this wing. Next comes a brushless motor, and a cabled setup to a boat then to wireless so that I can run saltwater. 
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Feb 16, 2015 02:20
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 ARRMA wasn't kidding when they said it has waterproof electronics. First snow of the year and I had my Raider out cutting donuts on the road in front of my house, and this is how it looked by the time I got done. I'm impressed, this little buggy can handle anything so far. It's also a total blast to throw around in snow because it just throws rooster tails everywhere
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Feb 16, 2015 20:19
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I may be making a big mistake but I want to get back into RC. Currently thinking about picking up an Exceed Maxstone 1/10, adding a low voltage warning and a 2S lipo. Split between getting a crawler and a 4x4 monster truck to bash with.. I figure a crawler can be slow enough I can let my daughter drive it with out the fear of it smashing into the side of the house at 30 mph. The 1/10th Maxstone seems to be a AX10 clone when it comes to axles and gears so parts shouldn't be too hard to upgrade.. As much as I want an Axial I just cant spend $400+ for truck RTR, batteries and charger when I can get my toes wet for less than $200 for Truck RTR batteries and charger. I've found a box with my old quick charger, batteries and transmitters from the early 90's but no sign of the Grasshopper, COX Bandito, or Lunchbox i had back in the day. Any advice on getting back into RC on a budget?
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Feb 25, 2015 22:04
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evilnissan posted:I may be making a big mistake but I want to get back into RC. Yeah, go get a slightly used Axial SCX10. You will probably enjoy it so much more than the crappy Maxstone. On our trail runs a guy and his son used to have one before upgrading to an Axial and as the Maxstone in stock trim was a bad performer. The tires alone on the thing are junk, so immediately you have to figure another 50-70 dollars to be able to have decent rubber. As others will tell you in here, if you have crap tires then you can't crawl anything. I mean, you can definitely get by with one but you most likely won't have as much fun. If you want new, an Axial SCX10 Deadbolt is a fantastic choice. They start at 299 but with coupons from places like tower hobbies you can get it around 30 dollars off which is a hell of a deal for one. I've just seen it so many times. Guys wanting to get into crawling/scaling but go cheap and then really regret not having an Axial truck, especially if they meet others that are driving them. Axials look great, are tough as hell, have an insane aftermarket and are really easy to sell if you decide it's not for you.
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Feb 26, 2015 04:23
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I want something little to drive around my computer room. For a long time, I had the Tomy Bit Char-G cars. Are those still around in any practical way? Is there anything proportional that's a similar size? What's out there for "really tiny R/C" cars? OH, and while we're at it, anyone want to buy a Tamiya M-05?
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Feb 26, 2015 08:04
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Nerobro posted:I want something little to drive around my computer room. I think you will get success looking up "micros". I know Losi has a bunch: http://www.losi.com/Products/Start.aspx#vehicleSelector1
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Feb 26, 2015 16:34
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I own a couple of the losi micros. Both micro rock crawlers and the brushed micro SCT. I really want something 1/64 scale, if I can find it. The Bit Char-G stuff is still out there. So are ZipZaps.. so those might be the way to go. Alternatively, I will need to get really creative finding a micro sized brushed speed control. (Read: taking apart a standard servo and using it's guts..)
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Feb 26, 2015 17:01
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Nerobro posted:OH, and while we're at it, anyone want to buy a Tamiya M-05? Got any details / pictures? It might be a bit before I can pick up anything new but i'm always curious about good deals.
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Feb 26, 2015 17:03
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T1g4h posted:Got any details / pictures? It might be a bit before I can pick up anything new but i'm always curious about good deals. Sure. I'll get those posted tonight. It's been sitting around for 3 years..and really hasn't spun a wheel. It's got a 2s LiPo in it, and will come with it. Though the guy who built it originally, and ran it, was somewhat hamfisted. Either way, details to follow tonight. Along the same lines, I've also got a LXT with the XX tranny in it that should go..
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Feb 26, 2015 17:27
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Nerobro posted:I want something little to drive around my computer room. HPI just released the Q32: http://www.hpiracing.com/en/kit/114060 really fun, and proper proportional steering (disclosure: I work for HPI)
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Feb 26, 2015 18:01
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krushgroove posted:HPI just released the Q32: http://www.hpiracing.com/en/kit/114060 really fun, and proper proportional steering That does look like fun on the bun.
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Feb 26, 2015 19:10
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krushgroove posted:HPI just released the Q32: http://www.hpiracing.com/en/kit/114060 really fun, and proper proportional steering That's definitely a car I've been considering. I find the proportional steering to be.. uh.. unique? The idea of using PWM versus a normal motor and a spring is neat. I'm really thinking I might just be happy enough with my crawlers and driving those as normal cars. I really was hoping that there was going to be a 1/64ish scale road car with proportional steering by now. The dNano's were close, but also very expensive. I did find my box of Bit Char-g stuff. If I could find my transmitters I'd be in good shape.
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Feb 26, 2015 19:10
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Nerobro posted:What's out there for "really tiny R/C" cars?///////////////   krushgroove posted:HPI just released the Q32: http://www.hpiracing.com/en/kit/114060 really fun, and proper proportional steering
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Feb 26, 2015 20:19
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krushgroove posted:HPI Q32 I have really enjoyed mine. My daughter loves driving "the baby car" in the house so maybe it isn't "mine" anymore. For those wondering, it is deceivingly fast and being fully proportional is a big deal. They have different colored wheels and different compound foam tires coming out (stock are a bit too grabby on low pile carpet). Charge time takes a while, but it seems to run for a fair bit as well. Plus HPI did a CRAZY good video with it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y2ZBamSlzk0 HPI has been killing it with their YouTube videos and I don't understand how they don't get more views, especially since it is not like their videos are blatant "advertisements"
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Feb 26, 2015 20:27
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So.. here's the M05 and LXT.   and the LXT  I forgot how badly it needed a bath.  I'd love to get them to someone who'll actually use them. Somehwere here I have a nice 5000mah hardcase pack for the LXT too.
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Feb 27, 2015 04:42
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krushgroove posted:HPI just released the Q32: http://www.hpiracing.com/en/kit/114060 really fun, and proper proportional steering Fucker, just ordered one.
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Feb 27, 2015 08:16
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Terminus Est posted:Fucker, just ordered one. You can send the residuals straight to me!
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Feb 27, 2015 10:28
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Nerobro posted:So.. here's the M05 and LXT. Oooh. The only downside, and this is something that I just thought about, is i'd have nowhere to run that M05 around here. Yay, rural areas lacking in actual smooth flat ground. That thing would bottom out everywhere It looks pretty rad though! First time I've ever seen a front wheel drive r/c car, that's interesting.
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Feb 27, 2015 21:16
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They're neat. They're not fast to accelerate, but my goodness do they stop fast. They're also really stable mid corner.
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Feb 27, 2015 21:18
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Well.. if you want the full details, they're here: http://realtinker.blogspot.com/2015/02/bit-char-g-doing-research-long-after-it.html#more I'll give you the highlights. One dremel. One utility knife. Two 1.9g servos. 1 micro 2.4ghz reciver. 1 1cell lipo battery. And one Nerobro. Before surgery.  The parts.....  And the ugly abomination that came from it.  Now, I know it works. I just need to make it pretty. It drives a lot better with a 70ma lipo on there. And you can see my "esc" there.
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Feb 28, 2015 08:55
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 And.. I broke the glue that held the front deck on. So I got to drive it 10 feet. I"ll buy more glue tomorrow.
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Mar 1, 2015 09:52
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ColonelJohnMatrix posted:Yeah, go get a slightly used Axial SCX10. You will probably enjoy it so much more than the crappy Maxstone. On our trail runs a guy and his son used to have one before upgrading to an Axial and as the Maxstone in stock trim was a bad performer. The tires alone on the thing are junk, so immediately you have to figure another 50-70 dollars to be able to have decent rubber. As others will tell you in here, if you have crap tires then you can't crawl anything. I mean, you can definitely get by with one but you most likely won't have as much fun. Just seconding this. I got my new SCX10 on Friday, and it's been an absolute BLAST. I had it out in the ice and snow this past weekend and crawling on stuff all around the house. The stock motor is plenty fast for a truck, and the tires work great in mud and slush. It's definitely capable right out of the box, but I've already got my eye on some upgrades. I was also pleasantly surprised to see how fast the LiPo batteries charged up and how long they lasted.
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Mar 2, 2015 18:11
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I just saw these videos on Dorkly and this looks like so much fun I have to share. RC DRIFTING! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YiYecg-gBuY https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DidxZ_kXbU4
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Mar 6, 2015 08:26
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Does anyone have experience with improving or modifying the steering on an HPI Wheely King? My son got his for Christmas and he almost completely adores it, however he is getting a little frustrated with the steering which through it's combination of many links and bendy plastic bars is not really very responsive. I was thinking of replacing the servo and moving it down to the axle with metal linkages which seems a pretty common mod. Any other thoughts or ideas? As it is the steering is mostly worthless on anything rough, it could use spacers to give it a slightly wider track to but they want £40 for a set of those. Other than that it is the perfect truck for a five year old, not to fast, goes anywhere, and I've made him a tow rope for pulling his brothers 2wd Traxxas Son uva Digger out of whatever mud hole he's got it stuck in now which is apparently the best thing ever.
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Mar 9, 2015 16:58
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Definitely move the servo, there must be a few aftermarket companies that make the metal plate to do the mounting, or you can make it yourself if you have a hacksaw and drill. Depending what your son wants to do, you can swap around the chassis to make it into a Crawler King (there's also a kit to do this). I wouldn't worry about widening the track unless you want to put some bling on it though.
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Mar 9, 2015 22:58
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Lots of places in the US making them, none over here that I can find which is annoying, I've ordered a plate and and linkage anyway which should be here in a week or two, they were very cheap (exchange rate to the rescue). I've also found some templates as well so I may try making one on the weekend if I have time. He's not to demanding about what he wants it to do, but the steering frustrates him and he ends up picking it up and pointing it where he wants it to be. I've had a few goes now and I can see how at his age it can be a bit to much. Especially when his brothers truck is so responsive to steering. I am definitely going to swap my ECX Torment for a monster truck of some kind, bashing about in the woods in not something it can keep up with.
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Mar 10, 2015 00:51
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So I haven't owned an RC car since I purchased a Tyco TurboHopper around 1986. I went down to RC Pitstop today and pucked up a 2wd Slash RTR kit. The brushless VXL one. I also bought a better charger and an extra 5000mah battery, and some A-arms. I didn't get lipo batteries because... I dunno I figure I'll start out slow and then ramp up the horsepower later. Can I charge the NiMH batteries at 5a ? I have it set for 4a.
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Mar 18, 2015 05:44
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 I just ordered a Tamiya M05 from Omni models. The local track is trying to get a mini TCS spec class going. I hope it gains some momentum because I'd love to race in a class where a competitive setup can be had for around $250.Also, I'm feeling a little ambitious and I think I'm going to try and go for a paul smith mini cooper paintjob. I have a buddy who paints a lot of bodies so I can hopefully borrow some of his paint rather than buy 12 different colors. Does anyone know if this has been done before and if there are any write-ups on the process. I have an idea of how I want to go about getting the stripes the right, but I know it will be a challenge.
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Mar 18, 2015 14:03
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I'd imagine that there would be lots of masking tape involved. Lots and lots of masking tape.
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Mar 18, 2015 14:12
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Kibner posted:I'd imagine that there would be lots of masking tape involved. Lots and lots of masking tape. Yeah, I have some masking tape that comes in thin strips. I think the best way to go about it would be to get a nice profile picture of the car and print it out. Then measure the total length and multiply it by a factor f to equal the length of the tamiya bady. I can take my caliper and measure each stripe. When I multiply the stripe on the printout by f that will give me the correct stripe width for the body. Then it's just a matter of laying strips of masking tape and taking my time painting each stripe. I have a feeling there must be an easier way, but I have not figured it out yet.
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Mar 18, 2015 15:27
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Leroy Diplowski posted:Yeah, I have some masking tape that comes in thin strips. I think the best way to go about it would be to get a nice profile picture of the car and print it out. Then measure the total length and multiply it by a factor f to equal the length of the tamiya bady. I can take my caliper and measure each stripe. When I multiply the stripe on the printout by f that will give me the correct stripe width for the body. Then it's just a matter of laying strips of masking tape and taking my time painting each stripe. I have a feeling there must be an easier way, but I have not figured it out yet. With a pattern like that, it certainly seems the easiest way.
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Mar 18, 2015 15:58
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jonathan posted:So I haven't owned an RC car since I purchased a Tyco TurboHopper around 1986. You want your first 3-5 charges to be super slow (if you want the packs to last), like an amp or less. After that you can throw the juice to them, don't exceed 5A and back off if they start warming up before they hit full charge. Turbo Fondant fucked around with this message at 16:05 on Mar 18, 2015 |
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Mar 18, 2015 16:00
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Leroy Diplowski posted:
Hemistorm is a master of painting with rattle cans (in addition to being a hilarious dutchman living in Norway). Check out some of his work here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=playlist https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=playlist https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=playlist
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Mar 18, 2015 16:18
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