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Slavvy posted:This could apply to pretty much any manual trans though. Autos are a different ball game entirely. Most danuals can last practically forever without changing the oil (performancy cars excepted). Yeah it was more of an example of lifetime fluids not being lifetime fluids. I'm actually surprised they offer lifetime on autos, that really seems sketchy.
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# ? Feb 27, 2015 20:25 |
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# ? May 21, 2024 19:29 |
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1500quidporsche posted:Yeah it was more of an example of lifetime fluids not being lifetime fluids. I'm actually surprised they offer lifetime on autos, that really seems sketchy.
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# ? Feb 27, 2015 20:33 |
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Anyone know a trick on how to patch a hole in a CV boot? It's a tiny hole but it's spurting grease everywhere. I read somewhere that using a new boot, and cutting out the groove you need and putting it over the groove with the hole in it, sealing it with silicone. IDK, but I really don't want to use a split boot because they are poo poo and I REALLY don't want to take the axle apart for a tiny hole. I also suppose I'd have to get some grease in back in it, is it ok to break the clamp and replace it with a zip tie?
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# ? Feb 27, 2015 21:01 |
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Getting it really clean and using some superglue has worked once for me... and failed twice. Yes, you can replace the clamp with a zip tie, but you can buy metal ones like come in many replacement kits.
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# ? Feb 27, 2015 21:05 |
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What about seal healing silicone tape?
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# ? Feb 27, 2015 21:28 |
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leica posted:Anyone know a trick on how to patch a hole in a CV boot? It's a tiny hole but it's spurting grease everywhere. I read somewhere that using a new boot, and cutting out the groove you need and putting it over the groove with the hole in it, sealing it with silicone. IDK, but I really don't want to use a split boot because they are poo poo and I REALLY don't want to take the axle apart for a tiny hole. Is it an actual hole or just a tear in the rubber? I found a small tear in the boot on the passenger side boot of my Focus once, cleaned it off really well and just covered it with some black RTV. That was seven or eight years ago, last time I looked at it (maybe a year ago) it was still sealed. If you have an actual hole YMMV.
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# ? Feb 27, 2015 21:48 |
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Krakkles posted:Pro-tip (for the BMW owner's bf/hubby): Don't drive cars in limp mode. Limp mode basically exists to get you off of a dangerous highway when the car knows it's failing. If you're not in imminent danger, DO NOT KEEP DRIVING. Thanks for the advice. She drove it from the highway straight to the BMW shop in limp mode, but that was it. Although they told her she could drive it home if she wanted so now I'm questioning the competence of the shop...
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# ? Feb 27, 2015 22:50 |
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The best way to seal rubber is with this amazing product called rubber cement. It's been around forever but it really is precisely the right thing for gluing rubber. Silicone is a flexible sealant but does not adhere well to rubber, especially oily rubber. Ordinary superglue (Cyanoacrylate) is brittle and thus completely inappropriate for most automotive repairs. Gorilla Glue makes a CA with additives to give it a little flex, which you might give a try, but really why bother when rubber cement exists and is so much cheaper?
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# ? Feb 27, 2015 23:00 |
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Rubber cement's loving weak though; I can see it not breaking under bending, but a CV boot gets stretched and compressed as it rotates around, I don't know if it would hold up to that sort of strain over the little surface area of a split. RTV is what I'd try first. Best method OFC would be to disassemble and replace the boot, but they said they don't wanna do that.
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# ? Feb 27, 2015 23:10 |
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Leperflesh posted:The best way to seal rubber is with this amazing product called rubber cement. It's been around forever but it really is precisely the right thing for gluing rubber. Silicone repair tape doesn''t, and isn't designed to adhere to ANYTHING but itself.
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# ? Feb 27, 2015 23:20 |
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The other thing to be aware of is that shops range from downright incompetent to actively looking to gently caress you when it comes to transmission stuff. The number of perfectly fine autos that have been rebuilt because AAMCO has no loving idea how to diagnose an electronic automatic transmission control system is probably in the 5 figures now, at least. Pull the codes (the CEL is on, right?) and post the list of numbers here. That'll at least get you started on what the issue is.
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# ? Feb 28, 2015 00:02 |
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So here's a potential bit of fun, is there a way to tell the specs of a fuel injector from its markings? I finally found out that the occasional white exhaust-smelling cloud from near the intake/exhaust manifold was from a loving FUEL LEAK Thankfully the leak was extremely small and the engine didn't go up in a blaze. Turns out the jackasses at Autozone sold me regular fuel hose instead of high pressure hose for the feed line even though I requested it (and I didn't know how to tell the difference at the time) along with regular flat clamps instead of rounded ones since they apparently don't carry the round ones for 5/16 hose. I got some new (and correct) hose and clamps to redo the work, and in the process I completely took out my fuel rail to clean up the minor spill and change the injector o-rings while I was at it, and found out that one of the 4 is different from the other 3. I tried searching around for 01D027B but all I found were a few posts from other people confused by injectors with the same markings. Chinese knockoffs maybe? I'm assuming that injectors aren't all the same and have different flow rates or whatever, so I'm sure one cylinder getting more/less fuel would be horrible for the engine. The car's an 88 Chrysler Lebaron 2.2 Turbo (w/o intercooler since it seems to matter), and here are the 'proper' injectors according to Autozone and Advance. I have to put the car back together with the current injectors since I don't have the spare money to grab another at this second, but is a new injector something that needs to go at the top of my asap list?
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# ? Feb 28, 2015 00:05 |
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Alright guys I broke something in the my 1994 4.0 Ford Ranger. I got in and tried to start it then stopped before it caught and turned over. It tried again immediately after and saw smoke coming from the engine bay up close to the drivers corner of the hood. I shut it off and opened the hood to look for what burned. Havent been able to find anything so far. I can start the engine now but it immediately goes to high rpm idle then dies down and stalls. Any suggestions on what to look at? The last two things I did to the truck were replace the IAC valve and installed two new speakers inside. The smell is of burned plastic like a wire or something heated up super hot.
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# ? Feb 28, 2015 00:24 |
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Based on the high idle and the IAC being the last thing you did I'd start a there and move backwards through the wiring.
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# ? Feb 28, 2015 00:32 |
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1500quidporsche posted:Based on the high idle and the IAC being the last thing you did I'd start a there and move backwards through the wiring. The IAC was about 2 months ago. I'll go check the wires running to it though.
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# ? Feb 28, 2015 00:34 |
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Fucknag posted:Rubber cement's loving weak though; I can see it not breaking under bending, but a CV boot gets stretched and compressed as it rotates around, I don't know if it would hold up to that sort of strain over the little surface area of a split. Yeah I've got RTV, guess I could clean the poo poo out of it and try that. it's just a small hole. I'm not sure how long it's been going like that though, is it safe to say I should probably put some more grease in there? [e] If the RTV method doesn't hold up I guess I'll suck it up and replace the boot. Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 01:03 on Feb 28, 2015 |
# ? Feb 28, 2015 00:35 |
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Senior Funkenstien posted:The IAC was about 2 months ago. I'll go check the wires running to it though. Alright I swapped in the old IAC. Starts and runs but still high idle and when it starts going down to normal idle it keeps going down till it stalls. I cant find anything burned out wire wise unless its somewhere I cant see.
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# ? Feb 28, 2015 01:11 |
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Sentient Data posted:So here's a potential bit of fun, is there a way to tell the specs of a fuel injector from its markings?... Yeah I tried looking for those numbers + "bosch" (my 88 jeep uses boschs that look like those, so I figure it's a good guess) and didn't get much. The numbers should definitely all be the same for each injector. It looks like you can get new injectors pretty cheap on RockAuto so you could do that. I went junkyarding for injectors when I swapped them in the jeep... $6/ea, then got a $15 oring/pintle cap rebuild kit and cleaned them up. Bring a 9v battery with you to the yard, snip off one of the injector pigtail connectors, strip the ends and touch them to the posts on the 9v. If the injector is still "good" you can hear it clicking. Bring the little pigtail home with you, and you can use it with a bit of tube and a kitchen syringe to run injector cleaner thru them when you refurb them. Mine run great. If you go JY hunting, RockAuto's cross-compatibility list for your model injector says this: BMW 533I (1983 - 1984) BMW 633CSI (1982 - 1984) BMW 733I (1982 - 1984) BMW M3 (1988 - 1991) BMW M5 1988 BMW M6 (1987 - 1988) BUICK SKYHAWK (1984 - 1986) CHRYSLER E CLASS 1984 CHRYSLER LASER (1984 - 1986) CHRYSLER LEBARON (1984 - 1988) CHRYSLER NEW YORKER (1984 - 1988) CHRYSLER TOWN & COUNTRY (1985 - 1988) DODGE 600 (1984 - 1988) DODGE ARIES 1988 DODGE CHARGER 1986 DODGE DAYTONA (1984 - 1988) DODGE LANCER (1986 - 1988) DODGE OMNI 1986 DODGE SHADOW (1987 - 1988) FORD ESCORT (1983 - 1985) FORD EXP (1983 - 1985) PLYMOUTH CARAVELLE (1985 - 1988) PLYMOUTH SUNDANCE (1987 - 1988) PONTIAC J2000 (1984 - 1985) PONTIAC SUNBIRD 1986 PORSCHE 944 (1983 - 1984) edit: also make sure you use Viton/fuel-rated O-rings and not just any rubber ones. The Royal Nonesuch fucked around with this message at 01:36 on Feb 28, 2015 |
# ? Feb 28, 2015 01:28 |
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Senior Funkenstien posted:Alright I swapped in the old IAC. Starts and runs but still high idle and when it starts going down to normal idle it keeps going down till it stalls. I cant find anything burned out wire wise unless its somewhere I cant see. My second guess would be a vacuum hose burning on something. Beyond that I'm not too sure what would cause a high idle and burning plastic smell. Have you checked the exhaust manifolds to see if a wire burnt onto them? could possibly be oxygen sensor wire
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# ? Feb 28, 2015 02:16 |
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1500quidporsche posted:My second guess would be a vacuum hose burning on something. Beyond that I'm not too sure what would cause a high idle and burning plastic smell. Have you checked the exhaust manifolds to see if a wire burnt onto them? could possibly be oxygen sensor wire I didn't have the truck started long enough for that to happen though. I disconnected the MAF to see if that changed anything, it did change the idle but it still stalled. Gonna try swapping some relays next and see if they fuel pump relay burned out.
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# ? Feb 28, 2015 02:18 |
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Drunk Beekeeper posted:Bmw problems You have the ZF 5HP19.... I'd take a wager that your having electrical issues. E46s are super sensitive to electrical issues. Get your battery and alternator checked/tested.
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# ? Feb 28, 2015 05:07 |
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1987 Lada Niva. I'm having a poo poo of a problem with the brakes. The left hand rear wheel makes a clunk then the wheel locks up. it usually does this after I have applied the brakes and released them. The brakes can be freed by reversing. What I've done that may have caused this: *Replaced brake hoses and bled system. *Adjusted hand brake. *Adjusted rear drum cams. *Attempted disassembly of rear left shoe assembly. One of the brake pistons fell out so I cleaned it and reinserted it. It was clean and nothing was missing. After this happened I decided to reassemble the brakes without putting on new shoes. The old shoes still have plenty of meat on them. Everything was pretty disgusting in there but that's nothing new. Previous to all this work, whenever I drove the Niva it'd brake like poo poo for a bit in the morning until I heard a clunk and the pedal feel and braking would change. This is one of the reasons I initiated the work. I've also replaced the proportioning valve, master cylinder, fluid reservoir and one of the front calliper piston blocks. After the first bout of locking up in the driveway, I pulled off the wheel and drum to take a look. The trailing piston had the shoe come unseated from the notch and rotated a little. The most recent disassembly everything was where it should have been. I'm kind of lost on what could be wrong with it. I'll be adding a brake cylinder to my next order, but it does seem to be working fine still. If anyone has any ideas, please let me know. I have no idea why it's behaving like this. Sorry about the bandwidth killers. Up top is the cylinder. The bar with the lever is for the handbrake. The thing just below the bar is an adjuster cam. The other shoe has one too but it's hidden behind the lever. The plate at the very bottom is attached to the backing and has a notch for the shoes to sit in. Everything looks to be present, correct and functional. I spoilered my theory to avoid accidentally suggesting an incorrect diagnosis. I think it has something to do with the hand brake. I adjusted it for three notches instead of the 4-5 as suggested in the manual. This is a common practice. It may be causing some unspecified issue with the shoes at rest. It's a vague theory and may well be wrong.
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# ? Feb 28, 2015 08:29 |
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Crossposting from the mechanical failures thread, went out to check my fluids and pressures before a trip and found a flat. Guessing these are too close to the sidewall to fix reliably? I tried inflating anyway to see what would happen and air was pissing out of both holes.
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# ? Feb 28, 2015 12:50 |
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Slavvy posted:It won't be the gearbox. Have you considered it being a blown engine mount? I Spoke to a local Citroen garage who said they have never done the cables or gearchange assembly on a C1/Aygo but do a couple of clutches per week.. I went ahead and changed my gearbox oil thismorning anyway and it looks like metallic paint when you stir it. Not the best pictures, but I don't think this oil looks good
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# ? Feb 28, 2015 16:31 |
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DesperateDan posted:Crossposting from the mechanical failures thread, went out to check my fluids and pressures before a trip and found a flat. Regardless of location, long gashes like that are typically not patchable, and those probably are too close to boot. You're probably looking at a new tire.
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# ? Feb 28, 2015 22:07 |
Tomarse posted:I Spoke to a local Citroen garage who said they have never done the cables or gearchange assembly on a C1/Aygo but do a couple of clutches per week.. Looks pretty normal for oil that's never been done. You should see the magnetic diff plug on a land cruiser with 30,000km,.
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# ? Feb 28, 2015 22:13 |
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Slavvy posted:This could apply to pretty much any manual trans though. Autos are a different ball game entirely. Most danuals can last practically forever without changing the oil (performancy cars excepted). My Mazda 3 really didn't like it when I skipped the 30k mile fluid change for the manual transaxle. It got really tough to pull out of gear @ 40k. Never really felt something like that before. Maybe just a fluke obviously. But yeah the new skyactivs don't seem to have an interval on either transmission which I call a BS on.
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# ? Feb 28, 2015 22:50 |
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General_Failure posted:1987 Lada Niva. Selfquote! New day and a clear head. Amazing how it helps. Things I've noticed /remembered: *The brake drum is a new one to replace the old one which had chunks out of its rim, presumably from a hammer. The brake assembly had a problem which it still has with spinning too freely. Ie when I adjust the brakes it's a bitch to make the left grab. *The spring retainer clips are shiny. Someone did work in there. *Yesterday I absentmindedly set the handbrake with the drum off. It applied as normal. Today I realised this. The cable is pulled in all the way / the lever in the drum is fully actuated. *Yesterday while trying to adjust the brake on that side I spun one of the cams all the way round by mistake. So we know the handbrake is adjusted too far. Yet I can slide the drum back on. The shoes have plenty of meat on them. The pistons seem to be overextended. So It's one of four things: The shoes are too small The drum and it's predecessor were too large. I'm somehow messing up adjustment. Ghosts. Any ideas?
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# ? Mar 1, 2015 00:33 |
Idea: stop loving around with old poo poo, get new shoes/drums/cylinders, walk away a contented man. Realtalk: what if the wheel cylinders are wrong? Have you considered that?
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# ? Mar 1, 2015 04:24 |
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General_Failure posted:Selfquote! On drum brakes, there's typically a leading shoe & a trailing shoe. The leading shoe (mounted on the front) has a shorter run of lining than the trailing shoe. If you mount then backwards, it is possible for some wacky braking characteristics to arise.
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# ? Mar 1, 2015 04:44 |
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About to do a trans fluid swap and filter swap. Can I pull the pan, pull filter, start engine and idle it in park till fluid stops pouring out of the cooler line, Hook it back up, install pan, fill trans ? All the poo poo I read says to replace it at 4L intervals, but I'm lazy. Edit: to further explain, pumping out all the old fluid will allow a cleaner fluid overall since I'm not mixing old and new as I'm doing the "infusion" style. Secondly, I figure enough fluid residue will exist to not damage seals or clutches for the 30 seconds it takes to fully drain the remaining 5L of fluid in the converter etc. jonathan fucked around with this message at 05:08 on Mar 1, 2015 |
# ? Mar 1, 2015 05:02 |
Depends on the colour of the car. If it's a blue car you have to turn the car upside down to stop the valvebody falling out. If it's a green car you have to tilt the car on a 45 degree angle to make sure all the fluid comes out.
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# ? Mar 1, 2015 05:08 |
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Slavvy posted:Idea: stop loving around with old poo poo, get new shoes/drums/cylinders, walk away a contented man. Hadn't occurred to me really. The drum only has a couple of thousand km on it. I bought it new last year. The shoes are old I guess. Hard to say. I pulled the assembly apart a little while ago anyway and compared old to new. The shoes are the same shape no doubt. The old ones are only about 1-2mm off new friction material thickness too. There is a bit of a design difference in the metal but it looks functionally equivalent. PainterofCrap posted:On drum brakes, there's typically a leading shoe & a trailing shoe. I'll have to check if there is actually a leading and trailing shoe in this design. All four shoes metal are identical and have the same part number stamping. Maybe they still stuck the friction material on differently in pairs. The new shoes are a sealed new OEM set. Not a third party Chinese special.
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# ? Mar 1, 2015 05:10 |
Sorry I was under the impression that you were dealing with PO installed parts. If you're able to fit the drum on with the shoes as they are in the picture, it seems like the wheel cylinder won't have anywhere near enough travel to push them out further without bursting. I'm not familiar with soviet tractor designs but to my eye it seems like the WC is just too small to work with the shoes being that far apart; logic dictates that it's either the wrong WC or the shoes are slightly incorrect.
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# ? Mar 1, 2015 05:12 |
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Slavvy posted:Sorry I was under the impression that you were dealing with PO installed parts. If you're able to fit the drum on with the shoes as they are in the picture, it seems like the wheel cylinder won't have anywhere near enough travel to push them out further without bursting. I'm not familiar with soviet tractor designs but to my eye it seems like the WC is just too small to work with the shoes being that far apart; logic dictates that it's either the wrong WC or the shoes are slightly incorrect. I just stole a few minutes to chuck the drum back together with the new shoes and did a quick brake adjust. It seems to be behaving as it should. The brake pedal is definitely firming up sooner too. I haven't adjusted the hand brake yet but signs are positive. Some time in the next week I'll try to grab a little more time to swap out the shoes on the other side and adjust the brakes completely. I'm really not sure if it's a good or bad thing that I can pull everything apart, repair, reassemble and adjust in a few minutes now. Looks like the same cylinder to me. http://ladapower.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&view=productdetails&virtuemart_product_id=382&virtuemart_category_id=19 Anyway now the pistons are just about bottoming out on each other which is a bit better. We'll see what happens once I get everything swapped out and adjusted.
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# ? Mar 1, 2015 05:47 |
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Is this a car you are currently driving? You should really both drums at the same time.
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# ? Mar 1, 2015 06:24 |
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Slavvy posted:Depends on the colour of the car. If it's a blue car you have to turn the car upside down to stop the valvebody falling out. If it's a green car you have to tilt the car on a 45 degree angle to make sure all the fluid comes out. Its white but I was thinking of plastidipping it fire engine red. It's a 2008 Jeep Wrangler Auto.
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# ? Mar 1, 2015 07:28 |
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SperginMcBadposter posted:Is this a car you are currently driving? You should really both drums at the same time. If you mean replace the other actual drum too... ehh. I know I probably should but I doubt it would make a whole lot of difference. It hasn't yet. If you mean replace the shoes and adjust, I will. It's not currently being driven. It's been on light duties since late last year because I had to pull the rear propshaft. I took it off the road completely early this year because of multiple issues (mostly brake) that needed addressing.
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# ? Mar 1, 2015 13:47 |
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08 civic EX (1.8l) Inconsistent clutch take up point (some launches are near-stalls, other are 2k rpm slips), "snaggy" shifts, and pumping the clutch pedal seems to make shifts smoother for a little while. Also, car is known for having a lovely CMC. Have tried to get clutch to slip in various ways, no slip whatsoever. It is schizo as hell, some days the car shifts butter smooth and other days its awful. Has to be clutch hydraulics correct? Fluid is full, going to attempt to bleed it when the weather is a little warmer. Currently the issue is annoying but not undriveable. But it certainly kills any enjoyment I get out of driving. I dont see any leaks on the CMC in the footwell. It creaks and pops a little bit when the pedal is pushed down. I am probably just going to order the parts from amazon to replace the CMC and slave and if the bleed fixes it, return em.
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# ? Mar 1, 2015 17:10 |
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# ? May 21, 2024 19:29 |
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I should probably change the oil on all vehicles today (Saabaru, Miata, Civic). I have an OEM Subaru filter in the closet but nothing on hand for the Miata or Civic and parts counters are closed today. Which aftermarket brand should I get, or does it matter? Are any/most aftermarket filters superior to OEM filters? The Saabaru and Miata get driven hard, if it makes a difference.
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# ? Mar 1, 2015 18:13 |