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That seems to be a rite of passage for Volvo owners. 
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Feb 28, 2015 12:36
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Did babby's first oil change today.  Earlier this week I changed out the torn up rubber shift boot with one made of leather.  
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Mar 1, 2015 01:16
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SperginMcBadposter posted:Did babby's first oil change today. Nice job! Be careful of those oil containers. Never had anything but leaks from the spout on those.
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Mar 1, 2015 01:22
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Don't worry, it looks like he's got tons of floor dry.
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Mar 1, 2015 01:28
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It's actually just cat litter. 
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Mar 1, 2015 01:36
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Got a new tow bar for my van. I had planned to clean up the old one that was on it and weld my light barckets on, but upon pulling it off i discovered there was so much rot on it that it'd best scrapped and replaced. Sooooo a super-expensive (Yet cheap on eBay) towbar to the rescue! Then some brackets a friend had laser cut for me to hold additional reverse lights and two flashing lights. Two-piece brackets mocked up:  Welded up with lights test-fitted:  Welded onto the new tow bar, this fucker is now stupid heavy:  I haven't run my TIG machine for about 18 months, so glad that i still have the hang of it. Self-taught and not hugely experienced with it, but it came out pretty decent. These aren't structural anyway, i just don't want them to fall off on the motorway:  Tomorrow, finish painting it! Rain can gently caress off.
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Mar 1, 2015 01:49
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Geoj posted:Did they have to replace one coilover or did you get a full set out of the deal? Or are all of them being rebuilt instead of replaced? I sent both fronts to Feals, they rebuilt the pair. New shaft for one and whole insert for the other. $345 total.
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Mar 1, 2015 05:23
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I fixed the heat, thank heaven. Lost it about 2 weeks ago. I was a touch low on coolant but not enough to make a difference. Changed the thermostat today and and brought back the glorious warmth. So stoked that it wasn't anything serious.
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Mar 1, 2015 19:59
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I just picked up a project Cressida. It runs and drives fine and has 110k miles. Somebody clipped it in a parking lot and the owner wanted to be rid of it. I was shocked by what a nice car it is to drive.  This calls for wakinbind school of bodywork technique.  Looks like it's at least a $1000 car!  Now I gotta fix the hood lifter and the powersteering pump, and continue talking myself out of slapping on some 13x8s and a set of ebay coilovers and going full retard.
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Mar 2, 2015 18:21
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Fitted my new tow bar, discovered that i should've measured it before i welded my new light brackets on. They sit about 3" further back than i had wanted. Also discovered that whoever fitted the towbar wiring did a really poo poo job, the plug is all hosed up and smashed inside, and needs to be replaced. Also thought about towing my car to my old shop to fix it. Then made bacon instead.
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Mar 2, 2015 19:05
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I put yet another tensioner on the GTP. Its been a merry go round of replacing idlers and tensioners on this car the entire time I've owned it. In the past ten years I've replaced every round belty thing on the car starting with the one I replaced today. I fully expect another squawky squealy idler to rear its ugly head in the next 6-8 months. Also replaced the rattling and disintegrating downpipe and cat with a nice ZZP one. I really can't say enough good thing about those guys. That pipe was almost too pretty to bolt onto my crusty stock exhaust. The fit was perfect and the welds looked impeccable. Gone now is the rattling horror of the old one, replaced by a slightly deeper exhaust note and what feels like a little more pull. I'll be getting their cat back and pulley kit once the weather turns.
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Mar 5, 2015 07:46
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I have a ZZP CAI and a ZZP downpipe on my Slobalt. I like them a lot. I bought the revised tensioner from them and it was as simple as unbolting and bolting. I just got some KYB struts and shocks off their website and will be grabbing some Eibach Sportlines from them soon. After that I wanna get all the ZZP engine and tranny mounts since I've only heard great things about them.
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Mar 5, 2015 12:45
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Good to know. I've only heard good things about ZZP and that pipe i got confirms what I've heard. My long term goal with my GTP is a ship of Theseus sort of thing. As things break and wear out I'll replace those things with higher quality aftermarket parts if i can. Eventually ill have a well spiced 3800 which is kind of what i wanted when I got the drat thing. Its just that besides the tranny going all slippidy a couple of years ago the drat thing doesn't break. I've got 160k on it now and it's running as strong as ever. Like i said before I think spring might bring me that nice cat back exhaust and their modular pulley system. Maybe a new intake too, purely for the sound 
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Mar 5, 2015 17:17
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She's getting accident damage repaired:
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Mar 5, 2015 18:35
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Krakkles posted:She's getting accident damage repaired: How did the claim go?
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Mar 6, 2015 02:34
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Bovril Delight posted:How did the claim go? At your suggestion, I reached out to the supervisor. She was initially pretty rude, but once she figured out that I wasn't calling about the claim from two years ago where one of their (drunk) drivers hit my parked car, she called the adjuster. He then called me, and stuck to the $20/day rental line. I began trying to explain (again) why that wouldn't work, all the while remaining calm, until he starts literally (yes, literally) yelling at me over the phone. He got as far as saying "I'm reading you the riot act."* before I hung up. I immediately called the supervisor back, left her a vmail, since she didn't answer, then called the 800 number to try to seek recourse. He leaves me an extremely condescending vmail while I'm on the phone with the main line and they're trying to reach the supervisor, to no avail. My contact email lights up with 3-4 notifications that new documents relating to my claim have been posted while I'm doing this, which turn out to be details of payment to the body shop (cool, but doesn't solve the rental issue) and then an additional email letting me know that I've got an Enterprise rental arranged for my convenience by 21st! Yay! ... or not. Since the email offers no details, I call 21st, they explain that the convenient rental is arranged for me at an address ~30 minutes away from the airport (BUR) I'm flying into, and will of course need to be returned to that location by Wednesday night the following week. I explain why this won't help (I'm flying out of LAX on Sunday, and will not be in Los Angeles until Thursday), they apologize and tell me to contact the adjuster again. Luckily, the supervisor calls me back shortly after this, and we proceed to have a 57 minute conversation in which she insists that it's possible to rent cars for $20/day and that's all they're responsible for, I point out that the reason I have my car (and don't crash it into things) is to avoid things like "Drop Fees" on rental cars, she tells me she's sure you can and I'm just not looking hard enough, I point out to her that the rate I'm coming up with ($41/day) is using MY corporate discount with Enterprise and it's probably as good as anyone is going to find outside of a mega-corporation like 21st, she agrees to pay that but will NOT pay the drop fee, I (since I'm on the "Click here to reserve your car!" screen and can see what the drop fee is - $7.41. Seriously.) agree to pay that. Interestingly, the day after she agreed to this, she AND the adjuster were out at the body shop to look at the car again - I assume because they were hoping to find grounds to deny it and screw me, but I don't know. I wouldn't have even known if I didn't have contact with someone at the body shop. At this point, I have turned the rental in already and do not intend to seek a further rental car, even though my car isn't done yet and I'm still ~50 miles away from it by the time I get home from LAX, but I have to submit the receipt and am keeping my fingers crossed that they'll actually pay. Sorry for the ramble - obviously I'm not real happy about all of this. * - I've never heard this used this way before - I've always heard it used to describe someone else's actions. You know, you lay into someone, then someone ELSE says "Man, he sure read him the riot act!".
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Mar 6, 2015 05:25
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 gently caress you Toyota. I Thought that a little car would be easy compared to my trucks but it turns out that every single bolt was tight or stuck and really hard to get at, so the main tool required is a big breaker bar with lots of wobble extensions. Bottom gearbox mount took an hour to remove a quarter turn at a time because they left poo poo loads of exposed thread on the end of the bolt (which you can't reach to clean off because it is inside a boxed section) and my compressor/air gun wasn't man enough. It is however nice being able to pick up the gearbox with one hand! Now tomorrow I have to put it back together 
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Mar 7, 2015 19:58
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Tomarse posted:
Clutch change? I've done loads of clutches on those. But with a ramp and a lot of air tools. Torque spec? Rattle it until it stops turning!
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Mar 7, 2015 20:01
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Mooseykins posted:Clutch change? I've done loads of clutches on those. But with a ramp and a lot of air tools. Torque spec? Rattle it until it stops turning! Yeah - though the clutch doesn't actually look that bad so it might all have to come apart again later for a gearbox. Its clearly a bit tired and worn, and has done 60k or so, but none of the bits look terrible (I've seen worse). The lack of a ramp doesn't really seem to matter but air tools would have helped a lot. The only bolts that I didn't have to use a massive breaker bar to crack off were the ones holding the clutch onto the flywheel. Maybe you did it up FT with your rattle gun last time  Also, the haynes manual is crap, you jack it and put it on stands and get through all the engine bay bits and then have to do the driveshafts, which requires dropping it back down onto the floor again so you can get the hub nut off. Why isnt 'remove driveshafts' step 1?
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Mar 7, 2015 20:19
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Tomarse posted:Yeah - though the clutch doesn't actually look that bad so it might all have to come apart again later for a gearbox. Its clearly a bit tired and worn, and has done 60k or so, but none of the bits look terrible (I've seen worse). I'm pretty sure these had issues with their overly small friction plates not being very good so they brought out a larger replacement clutch kit, but I may just be thinking of the Citroen c1 / Peugeot 107 and the toyota equiv.
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Mar 7, 2015 20:23
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GoodbyeTurtles posted:I'm pretty sure these had issues with their overly small friction plates not being very good so they brought out a larger replacement clutch kit, but I may just be thinking of the Citroen c1 / Peugeot 107 and the toyota equiv. Yeah, the Aygo/C1/107 are known for their lovely clutches. It already had the larger diameter fitted (the PO had it done at about 40-50k miles) and the new one I have got is also the larger one. I posted in the general questions thread the other day - I have lost the ability to change down into 4th and 3rd and sometimes 2nd. Its done 105k now. Gearbox oil was full of shiney bits so it might have eaten some of the syncros up, or this might just be normal because it was last changed when the clutch was last done (or the mechanic put the same oil back in when he changed the clutch last time)
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Mar 7, 2015 20:33
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Tomarse posted:I Thought that a little car would be easy... Oh boy, that was your first mistake. Little just means everything is packaged more tightly. Did the oil in the big Peugeot and topped up the coolant because I still haven't found where it's leaking from.  Was happy to see the turbo-powered underbody rust prevention system is still fully operational and should make life easier fow whichever mechanic gets to change my suspension bushes next week. I'd do them myself but I'm about to change jobs and go from an easily cyclable/busable commute to a 30 mile slog so I need my car back asap.
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Mar 7, 2015 20:33
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Tomarse posted:Yeah - though the clutch doesn't actually look that bad so it might all have to come apart again later for a gearbox. Its clearly a bit tired and worn, and has done 60k or so, but none of the bits look terrible (I've seen worse). They're not bad to do, but changing any clutch on the floor brings the difficulty way up. I have some very tall axle stands which makes floor jobs much easier. Tomarse posted:The lack of a ramp doesn't really seem to matter but air tools would have helped a lot. The only bolts that I didn't have to use a massive breaker bar to crack off were the ones holding the clutch onto the flywheel. Maybe you did it up FT with your rattle gun last time Entirely possible! Gun it all off, gun it all on! Hub nuts? Gun! Bell housing bolts? Gun! Battery tray bolts? Gun! Pressure plate bolts? Gun! Time is of the esscence. I used to get paid flat-rate, so the faster the thing was done, the faster i was onto the next job to make more money. Changed a clutch on a Honda CRV earlier, i think only 4 or 5 bolts were spared the gun, due to space. Tomarse posted:Also, the haynes manual is crap, you jack it and put it on stands and get through all the engine bay bits and then have to do the driveshafts, which requires dropping it back down onto the floor again so you can get the hub nut off. Why isnt 'remove driveshafts' step 1? Main dealer manuals are the best. They're so vague, it's hilarious. VW ones are like this: Replacing waterpump. Remove timing belt cover. Remove engine mount. Remove timing belt. Remove water pump. Reassembly is the reverse or removal. Yeah, great, thanks VW. GoodbyeTurtles posted:I'm pretty sure these had issues with their overly small friction plates not being very good so they brought out a larger replacement clutch kit, but I may just be thinking of the Citroen c1 / Peugeot 107 and the toyota equiv. Same with all those PSA single-cams. 1.4L 206s go through clutches like it's going out of fashion. Tomarse posted:Gearbox oil was full of shiney bits so it might have eaten some of the syncros up, or this might just be normal because it was last changed when the clutch was last done (or the mechanic put the same oil back in when he changed the clutch last time) I would hope that the oil was changed. Those boxes aren't great. They do like to lunch their chocolate sunchros, and when they're not doing that their ring gears are falling off the diff.
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Mar 7, 2015 22:24
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Its not what I did, but what I bought for it. 315/35r17 tires for the rear. They were much bigger than I was expecting. Thats a size 11 shoe at the bottom.   And the little mustang corner in my basement. Wheels in the white boxes, tires to put on the wheels. Leather seats from some jerk that hit a guardrail, and my louvers.
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Mar 7, 2015 23:01
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Had an interesting week of finding things to fix the hard way... I got a low coolant warning on my way to work the other day. It took a little over a quart to top off and I found nothing after a quick check for leaks, so I went home not thinking anything of it. No less than 24 hours later while on my way home, I get another low coolant warning. This time I get it home and check for leaks again while the engine is fully warm and running, and caught a puff of steam coming from the right side of the engine near the firewall. It turns out that one of the hose fittings on the heater control valve is leaking and it looks like the hose clamp could just be a bit loose. At the slightest touch of the hose, before I could fully seat a socket on the clamp, the fitting cracked and split open and coolant began pissing all over the side of the engine.  On a different note, I was finally able to pinpoint a strange knocking noise in the rear end of my car. I just so happened to look in the rear view mirror and saw the trunk lid pop open and slam shut after hitting a big enough bump. It turns out the drat trunk latch decided to let go and has apparently been like that for a while. I don't use the trunk very often and there's no indicator of any kind that let me know it was open or unlatched to begin with. Not surprisingly it's an OEM only part and will be shipped out in "one to two weeks" since nobody has one readily available.  Needless to say, it's parked while I play the waiting game for the parts I need. 
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Mar 8, 2015 03:53
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Yesterday, I sold the Ugly Dirty Cheap GSR for $profit. Today I swapped the OEM wheels and tires back onto the Civic Si, and put the orange and green winter set away. I also ordered a set of 16" black steel wheels and 245/70/16 BFG A/T KO tires for the '07 Explorer. The wife was tired of having boring all-seasons mounted on inexplicably large and chrome factory 18's. Pictures when the new wheels arrive.
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Mar 8, 2015 16:05
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Yesterday, I sold the Ugly Dirty Cheap GSR for $profit.
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Mar 8, 2015 20:16
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First (not so great) coat!
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Mar 8, 2015 22:35
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Fixed my towbar wiring. I don't have a trailer, trailer licence, tachograph or even a need to tow a trailer, but it was done badly before so one less thing to fix!  I already knew that whoever fitted the towbar and wiring did a poo poo job, the wiring is a loving mess, but they also managed to smash the poo poo out the inside of the socket. And the wiring was a foot too long. Ensuring heatshrink is done right, don't use a light or heatgun. MAPP gas is fiiine..  New socket, new gasket, new tow bar, new lights. 
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Mar 8, 2015 23:09
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Tomarse posted:Now tomorrow I have to put it back together Got some of the car back together today before I had to go out for a family thing. New clutch is in, gearbox is back in with all the mounts and driveshafts are back on. gear and clutch cables and hub nuts and wheels still to refit and battery tray and engine bay poo poo still to go back. Getting the gearbox back in was a twat of a job as there is not even space to get your hands in round it from the top to twist it and line it up easily (and nothing to hold onto or grip on the top of the box!), and with an engine lift holding it up and the car on stands squeezing underneath to see what the bottom of the box is uncomfortable. Got bruises over my shoulders and hips now. Got to get up stupidly early tomorrow to finish it so I can get into work at some point. Then I shall be testing it out with a 300 mile journey at 5am on Tuesday...
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Mar 8, 2015 23:28
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Cage posted:Yeah, definitely show us some pics because Im thinking about doing the same with some cragars for my explorer. The wheels I ordered are a carbon copy of the Cragar Soft 8's.
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Mar 9, 2015 00:02
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Mooseykins posted:I would hope that the oil was changed. Those boxes aren't great. They do like to lunch their chocolate sunchros, and when they're not doing that their ring gears are falling off the diff. Got it back together thismorning and drove to work and back. Clutch now feels great however I still cant change down into 3rd or 4th. Gearbox or gear lever and cable assembly next?
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Mar 9, 2015 19:24
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Tomarse posted:Got it back together thismorning and drove to work and back. Clutch now feels great however I still cant change down into 3rd or 4th. Gearbox or gear lever and cable assembly next? Does it shift smoothly from 4th into 3rd with the engine off and clutch pedal up, and with the engine idling/car stationary and with the clutch in? It's more likely dead synchros. If the clutch doesn't disengage properly it will stop it downshifting easily, but usually in all gears. Your symptoms sound more like a worn 3rd gear synchro.
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Mar 9, 2015 20:05
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I broke the nose of my Corvair's starter in half! Oh joy! Hopefully it was just a backfire or old and corroded Bendix drive, because I don't care to spend a good 600 on a new flywheel and pressure plate. I guess good old 60's GM used undersized rivets to fasten the flywheel together, so as time goes on the repeated engaging and disengaging of the clutch causes the halves to get all loose. Couple that with the nice flimsy ring gear being poorly supported and attached to the pressure plate, and you've got a recipe for fun. I figured on spending a grand on the fun car this month, I just hoped it would be on something more glamorous like a functional suspension.
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Mar 9, 2015 20:51
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The ring gear is on the pressure plate? That's different.
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Mar 9, 2015 20:59
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Raluek posted:The ring gear is on the pressure plate? That's different. Ever seen a VW 020?   The pressure plate bolts to the crankshaft, the flywheel bolts onto the pressure plate, there's a metal plate that presses the clutch springs, which is pressed by a rod that runs inside the (hollow) input shaft and is pressed on by a release bearing in the tailcase, actuated by a little lever than attatches to the clutch cable lever.
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Mar 9, 2015 21:06
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loving VOLKSWAGEN™
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Mar 9, 2015 21:10
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What in the gently caress?  STOP INVENTING NEW COMPLICATED WAYS TO DO OLD SIMPLE THINGS, VOLKSWAGEN. JUST STOP.  Makes EJ series Subaru automatic trans flexplate/torque converter fastening seem simple. They put a tiny little hole in the bellhousing in one spot, you have to go through it to take the torque converter bolts (or are they nuts?) off. Engine locked up? Haha gently caress you, pull the whole drivetrain, the torque converter has a foot long extension tube and splined shaft on it to drive the transmission and input pump because it has to get past the front diff, so it won't fit out of the engine bay until you unbolt the converter, unless you tip the trans down.
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Mar 9, 2015 21:11
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Terrible Robot posted:loving VOLKSWAGEN™ kastein posted:What in the gently caress? It's actually an old MKI-era gearbox, and came to an end in MK IV Golfs. Needlessly complicated, yet somehow kinda reliable. (Oh, except for diff rivets shearing, and blowing 2" holes through the diff housing when they wanted to leave home and make a new life for themselves.) VW have replaced this poo poo with DSG poo poo. Because who doesn't want an auto, that's not really an auto but kinda is and clunks into gear 30 seconds after the warranty runs out? kastein posted:Makes EJ series Subaru automatic trans flexplate/torque converter fastening seem simple. They put a tiny little hole in the bellhousing in one spot, you have to go through it to take the torque converter bolts (or are they nuts?) off. Engine locked up? Haha gently caress you, pull the whole drivetrain, the torque converter has a foot long extension tube and splined shaft on it to drive the transmission and input pump because it has to get past the front diff, so it won't fit out of the engine bay until you unbolt the converter, unless you tip the trans down. urrrrrgh.. torque converters.. You're super careful to unbolt them from the flexplate, then gently pry them away from it while you pull the gearbox back and out. Then they just loving fall out and piss ATF all over the floor. 
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Mar 9, 2015 21:22
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| # ? May 13, 2024 11:33 |
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On the 090 Automatic the ring gear is on the Torque converter fan: http://www.van-cafe.com/home/van/page_1564_1501/automatic-torque-converter.html   Terrible Robot posted:loving VOLKSWAGEN™ Volkswagen - Why do anything using established methods when we can find a way that's twice as complex and three times as expensive.
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Mar 9, 2015 21:44
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