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Edit: I need to build the frame out to make this fit, Home Despot has screwed me, welp.
Paramemetic fucked around with this message at 01:30 on Mar 11, 2015 |
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Mar 8, 2015 22:05
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Barracuda Bang! posted:So, I have one of those refrigerators with the freezer occupying the top 1/3 of the unit, and the main refrigerator portion being the bottom 2/3. Pretty standard, I figure. OK. Are both the freezer door and the refrigerator door out-of-square with the body of the refrigerator? If so, then the refrigerator box itself is out-of-level. You will need to adjust the height of the legs (they do raise & lower) to get the body back to square with the doors. Yes, the fridge body does flex. On some models, the legs themselves screw up or down. On others, there is an adjustment screw on the front face of the fridge body, near the bottom edge, at the left & right. Tightening it will raise, loosening will lower. Usually, the center hinge plate (between the upper & lower doors) is not adjustable; only the top plate (for the freezer) and the bottom plate (for the refrigerator) are where the adjustments are made for each door. If it is in fact only the lower door, then the adjustment is at the bottom hinge plate. Loosen the screws A LITTLE & shift the door back into square.
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Mar 8, 2015 23:20
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I'm having a problem with my upstairs tub drain and wondering what to do next. It's been slow since I bought the house a few months ago but it never bothered me until recently. Threw some Drano foaming stuff down, didn't help. Used one of those ~1 ft long plastic barby things that goes down and grabs the clog, didn't come up with anything. Been using one of those liquid enzyme treatments for the last 3 or 4 days, also hasn't helped. Could there be a clog farther down? Sink and toilet upstairs, and all three pieces in the downstairs bathroom aren't slow. Should I get one of those 15' handheld snakes from Home Depot? Or is there something else that could be going on? I do notice that the drain stopper handle is a bit sloppy, could it be loose causing a partial blockage? When it's engaged it makes a good seal and doesn't leak. Any other ideas?
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Mar 8, 2015 23:45
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If the plastic thingy didn't work, the next step is probably to snake it, yeah. But - how old is the house? If it's old enough, you could be lacking a proper vent, or you could have one of these horrifying things: http://www.startribune.com/local/yourvoices/203360321.html in which case you should probably just go ahead replace it.
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Mar 8, 2015 23:51
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slap me silly posted:If the plastic thingy didn't work, the next step is probably to snake it, yeah. But - how old is the house? If it's old enough, you could be lacking a proper vent, or you could have one of these horrifying things: http://www.startribune.com/local/yourvoices/203360321.html in which case you should probably just go ahead replace it. It's an old house, but I'm pretty sure they redid most/all of the plumbing in the last 20 years or so. There is a vent I can see in the attic (at least I'm assuming it is, my inspector said it was), and there looks to be all PVC in the basement until it ties into the cast iron sewer pipe.
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Mar 9, 2015 00:01
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Sounds promising. I had a similar situation with a sink, and clearing the clog took the snake (http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-1-4-in-x-25-ft-Power-Spin-41408/203468227) plus a battery-powered drill to spin it. Working that thing by hand was a waste of time. And the cheap hand-drive thing (http://www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCraft-1-4-in-x-15-ft-Drain-Auger-BC91015/100540673) was a REAL waste of time.
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Mar 9, 2015 00:09
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I recently replaced several on my interior doors in my house with new slabs. They are hollow core 6 panel doors. I took off the old ones, lines them up with the new ones, and marked the hinge cutouts that way. I also replaced the hinges as well. Now the issue I am having is a couple of the doors are hard to push or pull. All of the doors close and lock fine, but a few are hard to push. You could try slamming the door, and it will move only a few inches before it stops. How do I fix this?
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Mar 9, 2015 06:46
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Are they rubbing on the top of the door frame or the carpet underneath? If not the hinges are not in line with each other and need adjusting until they are.
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Mar 9, 2015 08:18
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Cakefool posted:Are they rubbing on the top of the door frame or the carpet underneath? If not the hinges are not in line with each other and need adjusting until they are. Nope, plenty of clearance on both. I figured it was an issue with the hinges somehow. How do you mean, not in line?
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Mar 9, 2015 08:33
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Thanks for the advice on the fridge. I just ordered a pack of shims so I'll give that a shot, since I think a lot of it has to do with the whole unit being off level a bit. I may need to still do the doors a bit though, since I think each door is off a bit in a different direction.
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Mar 9, 2015 11:36
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Tiny Lowtax posted:Nope, plenty of clearance on both. I figured it was an issue with the hinges somehow. How do you mean, not in line? There's a pin in each hinge, you should be able to draw an imaginary straight line through both (or all three?) So they're turning about a common axis. If they're not something is bending when the door is moved.
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Mar 9, 2015 11:46
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Cakefool posted:There's a pin in each hinge, you should be able to draw an imaginary straight line through both (or all three?) So they're turning about a common axis. If they're not something is bending when the door is moved. Exactly. So take them out one at a time, try the door, replace and remove another. If one of them fixes this problem it's the hinge that misaligned. If it does it with any combination of 2 pins you have ALL of them misaligned. How did you cut these? With a template and router? Or at least a template? Everything else is hard mode and I'm not nearly a good enough carpenter to make it work. But I can do it with a "door kit" every time.
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Mar 9, 2015 16:47
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What is the best way to remove caulk from a shower? HD had some caulk-specific cleaners, so I bought one of those and used that, but it still seems like a huge PITA. I am just going to town with various scrapers now.
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Mar 9, 2015 16:52
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gvibes posted:What is the best way to remove caulk from a shower? A pack of razor blades and various handles to get in at different angles. Replace them often. They get dull fast. One trick I've used, and it doesn't work everywhere is to get some carpet blades.  Sometimes you can get the bulk of it with those, and then go back with a straight blade scraper for final cleanup.
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Mar 9, 2015 17:52
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Motronic posted:Exactly. So take them out one at a time, try the door, replace and remove another. They are two hinge doors. I used a router and one of those plastic template kits that screw onto the door.
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Mar 9, 2015 21:04
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Tiny Lowtax posted:They are two hinge doors. I used a router and one of those plastic template kits that screw onto the door. Ahhh, in that case close the door and pull one of the hinge pins. See how it closes/how it hangs. Then reverse which pin is out. It should be obvious which one (or that both) are the issue. One of them is probably tweaked a bit to the top or bottom. You can shim it up with paper or cardboard and probably have everything working properly again in 10 or 15 minutes per door.
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Mar 9, 2015 21:12
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My wife turned on the bathroom light earlier and a 15A circuit breaker tripped. According to her, the light "sparked" and then the breaker tripped. When I got home, I reset the breaker and turned on the light. One bulb was burnt out, but everything else worked as expected. I suspect the "spark" was the bright flash most bulbs give when they burn out. Why would a bulb burning out cause a sudden high current draw?
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Mar 10, 2015 02:10
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Safety Dance posted:My wife turned on the bathroom light earlier and a 15A circuit breaker tripped. According to her, the light "sparked" and then the breaker tripped. When I got home, I reset the breaker and turned on the light. One bulb was burnt out, but everything else worked as expected. I suspect the "spark" was the bright flash most bulbs give when they burn out. Maybe an arc? Plasma is sub-1-ohm resistance.
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Mar 10, 2015 04:11
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So my bowl shaped front yard has some drainage issues. One side thankfully has a 3" pvc pool drain right around a low point that I can tap into that goes a long way straight into a shared drainage ditch. The other side... will not be so simple. I need to go under a driveway I think. I know you can -kind of- bore under a sidewalk. A full driveway I'm assuming isn't going to happen. Does that mean I'm stuck tearing up a big chunk of concrete?
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Mar 10, 2015 15:51
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This is extremely stupid, but how the hell do I hang an Ikea Nyttja frame? It has these thingies along two edges but they're too close to the board to get a hook of any kind in there:
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Mar 10, 2015 18:41
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mobby_6kl posted:This is extremely stupid, but how the hell do I hang an Ikea Nyttja frame? It has these thingies along two edges but they're too close to the board to get a hook of any kind in there: Screw in the stud with a 1/16" head clearance off the wall?
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Mar 10, 2015 18:44
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Bend it so it sticks out from the frame a little bit. Those little divots should be where it bends. Remember, everything Ikea starts flat but it's not always supposed to stay flat! 
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Mar 10, 2015 18:47
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Well poo poo, that was it of course. I actually tried bending it like that but it felt too hard/the attachment to board too flimsy to survive it, but it did. But that's Ikea I guess 
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Mar 10, 2015 18:53
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Saggy gate incoming: Not sure why the diagonal piece in the middle doesn't actually touch either corner, but I know it's not "original" to the gate. There are also some angle brackets in the upper left and bottom right, though I don't think they're doing much good. I could rip out the center piece and use an anti-sag cable like this. I could also try something this, though I'd have to rebuild the gate for that. I guess I wouldn't really be against rebuilding the gate from scratch either, I think it's pretty clear that as designed it's not the greatest.
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Mar 10, 2015 21:30
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That diagonal brace is (arguably) in the wrong orientation. If it was my gate, I'd remove the diagonal brace and the corner brackets, rack the gate back straight, and reinstall the brace in the other orientation (backward Z). You might need to trim the piece the latch is mounted on. Then make sure the left vertical part of the frame is secured well to the rest of the frame, either with long screws through the side or with mending plates over the top and bottom joints.
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Mar 10, 2015 21:45
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The slats being cut on the bottom may throw it off, but it's sagging on the left side, by an inch or two. I thought you'd want the cross piece to pull the two corners together, and the bottom left and top right are the ones pulling away from each other (I think).
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Mar 10, 2015 21:52
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One Day Fish Sale posted:That diagonal brace is (arguably) in the wrong orientation. If it was my gate, I'd remove the diagonal brace and the corner brackets, rack the gate back straight, and reinstall the brace in the other orientation (backward Z). You might need to trim the piece the latch is mounted on. Then make sure the left vertical part of the frame is secured well to the rest of the frame, either with long screws through the side or with mending plates over the top and bottom joints. Yup, that brace is going the wrong way. Switch that around and use that anti sag kit that you linked to.
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Mar 11, 2015 00:20
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PuTTY riot posted:So my bowl shaped front yard has some drainage issues. One side thankfully has a 3" pvc pool drain right around a low point that I can tap into that goes a long way straight into a shared drainage ditch. The other side... will not be so simple. I need to go under a driveway I think. I know you can -kind of- bore under a sidewalk. A full driveway I'm assuming isn't going to happen. Does that mean I'm stuck tearing up a big chunk of concrete? Can we get a diagram or satellite pic? I'm assuming you can't drain in any other direction? There was some kit Motronic linked to from Amazon awhile ago that might work for your situation.
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Mar 11, 2015 00:25
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FISHMANPET posted:The slats being cut on the bottom may throw it off, but it's sagging on the left side, by an inch or two. I thought you'd want the cross piece to pull the two corners together, and the bottom left and top right are the ones pulling away from each other (I think). If two opposite corners are pulling away from each other, the other two corners are pushing towards each other. It's a lot easier to resist compression than tension.
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Mar 11, 2015 00:32
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kid sinister posted:There was some kit Motronic linked to from Amazon awhile ago that might work for your situation. That would be tough going under even the smallest of driveways. This is likely a "dig a couple pits and rent the proper equipment or hire someone with it" situation. And at least one of the pits is gonna have to be pretty big, since you'll want PVC under the driveway and will have to snake it in from one side or the other.
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Mar 11, 2015 15:39
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This is what I'm working with: The city has a trench a few feet from the street that carries rainwater from the right hand side of the screen to the left. Any rainfall behind that in my yard runs down towards my house. There's a steep hill separating me from my neighbor to the right. That area has standing water now. yellow- planned french drain area, picking up front part of house, and wrapping around side to pick up that saturated area blue (on right) - where my pool equipment is. It immediately changes from 1.5" to 3" PVC once it goes underground. green- existing "pool drain" that also already picks up a gutter downspout and a channel drain by the pool. I'm assuming the pool builder did all of this. I don't know where it goes in the yard, but it ends up popping out in another ditch (more of a creek these days). blue (on left) is where water runs over the driveway, and then there's a pea gravel parking pad that's on the other side of the driveway. The problem is the water only really runs over that section when there's a lot, then it'll pool up because it has nowhere to go. My thought was to basically follow where the water is already trying to go, just lower (under the driveway). I'd do another french drain on that side of the front of the house as well. This frat dude has the closest setup to what I'd consider trying, but he doesn't really teach you how to do anything and I'm not convinced it would work/not eventually crack. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7nRvscaoWos e: I guess my other option would be a sump pump back up to the city ditch, but that just doesn't seem desirable. PuTTY riot fucked around with this message at 16:27 on Mar 11, 2015 |
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Mar 11, 2015 16:11
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Is there a thread for making CNC machines or messing around with them? I'm trying to setup a good brushless motor for one instead of a dremel and am having trouble finding info.
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Mar 11, 2015 19:58
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Rakins posted:Is there a thread for making CNC machines or messing around with them? I'm trying to setup a good brushless motor for one instead of a dremel and am having trouble finding info. It's like... on this very page. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3558051
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Mar 11, 2015 22:13
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What's the cheapest way to bore a hole into a pyrex tube if I don't have a drill or a blowtorch? I have a torch lighter but this is thick borosilicate glass and it doesn't even phase it. I don't need the hole to be perfectly round or anything just a small hole without shattering the whole thing. If I hammer a v small screwdriver onto it will it shatter?
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Mar 12, 2015 21:31
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Crack posted:What's the cheapest way to bore a hole into a pyrex tube if I don't have a drill or a blowtorch? I have a torch lighter but this is thick borosilicate glass and it doesn't even phase it. I don't need the hole to be perfectly round or anything just a small hole without shattering the whole thing. If I hammer a v small screwdriver onto it will it shatter? You need a dremel drill press, a dremel, a conical diamond-tipped bit, a constant stream of water, a constant supply of borosilicate tubes, and lots of patience.
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Mar 12, 2015 22:05
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I have a constant stream of water, 1 tube and a fair amount of patience. Any other way? Surely buying an acy welding torch would be cheaper than all that too?
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Mar 12, 2015 23:38
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Crack posted:I have a constant stream of water, 1 tube and a fair amount of patience. Any other way? Surely buying an acy welding torch would be cheaper than all that too? You need an adapter.
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Mar 13, 2015 04:29
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Bought a house/moved in August. Since then, the basement sump pump's been working wonderfully. Until the other night. Bunch of snow on the ground from a previous storm, and it was rain/freezing/rain/sleeting. That night, the sump pump started water-hammering something fierce. It'd kick on, pump quietly for maybe 20 seconds, shut off, and *THUD*, the whole outflow pipe was shaking. Repeat 5 minutes later. The next day, it was fine, quietly pumping away as per normal. What would cause one night of water hammer? I'm guessing the outflow pipe was partly blocked by an ice plug, so when the pump shut off there was a lot more water in the pipe than usual. Or totally blocked, so the pump pumped until the pipe was full and then the whole mass was left to drain back inside? Phanatic fucked around with this message at 16:43 on Mar 13, 2015 |
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Mar 13, 2015 16:37
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Does anyone know if Kwikset lock sets can be keyed to Baldwins? I have a really nice Baldwin lock set on front door and am looking to replace the crappy old lock set that is on my garage entry door. I've found a Kwikset knob / lock that I like but i'm wondering if it can be keyed to match my Baldwin front door.
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Mar 13, 2015 22:59
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So I've been thinking about construction of a small house I'd like to build sometime in the next year or two. A probably stupid question: If you make the shell with steel I-beams and columns, can you then do the flooring (2nd floor) and walls with wood? I understand the wall frames would attach to the sill plates, but then how do they attach to the columns? And then when you go to lay flooring - do you bolt plywood to steel beams? How does this work, at a high level?
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Mar 14, 2015 05:48
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