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Awesome!
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Dec 16, 2014 02:42
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I'm in the process of selling my miata and getting a bike with the money. I'm looking at the SV as a great starter bike that I can keep for a few years. My budget is $2000, what kind of SV can that buy on average? What would be considered a "really good" deal? My location is Florida if that makes any difference. Is there any reason to shy away from high mileage 30k+ examples?
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Jan 9, 2015 04:07
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30k should be fine for an SV that's been actually taken care of (as with most bikes). Where in florida do you live? 2k around here will get you a decent 1st gen SV or a nonrunner 2nd gen.
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Jan 9, 2015 04:09
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M42 posted:30k should be fine for an SV that's been actually taken care of (as with most bikes). Where in florida do you live? 2k around here will get you a decent 1st gen SV or a nonrunner 2nd gen. I'm in Daytona but I have a truck and gas is cheap so I'm willing to travel the state for a really good deal.
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Jan 9, 2015 04:39
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Alright, thinking about swapping my '04's beat-up stock front end for a 2000-2003 GSXR 750. Any of y'all that have done this, how did you set up the speedo sensor? Most of the links floating around the internet seem to be dead.
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Jan 25, 2015 06:16
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Nur_Neerg posted:Alright, thinking about swapping my '04's beat-up stock front end for a 2000-2003 GSXR 750. Any of y'all that have done this, how did you set up the speedo sensor? Most of the links floating around the internet seem to be dead. This has some info. Anything specific about the speedo thing you want to know? I have almost all the parts for mine, basically waiting for a warm day to assemble it all. Also, does anyone have the naked SV's speedo bottom cover hanging around? It's the round bit that's above the headlight. My headlight/gauge area is pretty woeful looking without it.
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Jan 28, 2015 23:35
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M42 posted:This has some info. Anything specific about the speedo thing you want to know? I have almost all the parts for mine, basically waiting for a warm day to assemble it all. You're my favorite. I found some threads on SVRider talking about the magnet and sensor setup, but they all referred to that dead website, and I somehow couldn't find this thread. Really just making sure I know what all I need to get while keeping my eye out for a decent front end to show up on the interwebs.
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Jan 29, 2015 03:44
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Yeah no prob. I know exactly how it is with all the links being dead, and the jackoffs on svrider are just like "why don't you do some research on our deadass forum" when you ask for help. This is the sensor I'm gonna use. Lee valley is where you want to get your magnets, holder part number is 99K32.51 and magnet part number is 99K31.01. I just checked and yes, you need only 4 magnets for the 04 (05 and up need 8). They have to be evenly spaced around the rotor, so try to get a set of rotors with 8 holes so you don't end up having to wire in a speedo healer (600/750 rotors from 06-07 are good, that's what I'm using). The first post in this thread has a shitton of charts with measurements for all the permutations of the swap.
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Jan 29, 2015 05:08
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Yeah I did find that particular thread, but that forum overall is seriously less useful than the Hawk GT forum, which consists of like 33 people—it's impressive. Thanks for the links, I'll go ahead and snag things. I'd been thinking about replacing the front end when someone knocked the thing over and bent one of my forks. I replaced the fork, but found out the triples were p. rusty and the PO had spray painted over 'em. I really don't want to deal with whatever he did, so figure it's time to swap before Seattle gets back to nice riding weather in a few months.
Nur_Neerg fucked around with this message at 07:35 on Jan 29, 2015 |
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Jan 29, 2015 07:16
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My 2000 SV650 approaching 45k (only a few thousand ridden by me) needed a jump to start yesterday after a few months in storage. No problem. Then, on the highway, the odometer, tachometer and speedometer start flashing off/on; dials are dropping to zero and flying back up, etc. Looked like I was in the bermuda triangle. Going 70-ish, this continued til I left the highway, then it cleared up when my speeds dropped. 30-ish seconds after I left the ramp, making a slow right turn, everything died suddenly. I checked all the fuses - no issues. The engine still turned when I tried to restart it, but didn't charge enough after the highway to get going again. Fuses were fine, and wiring looked fine, and all of the electrical connections seemed to be working. So I got another jump and rode it home without any problems at all (I stayed below 60 in case that was the issue). I have a trickle charger to get the battery up to full, and have used jumping without issue before just to get through the day or whatever. So I'm certain I have done something stupid, or failed to perform some kind of maintenance, which has led to this. But I'm not sure what. Could it be a bad alternator? Should I just take it in to a shop?
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Feb 10, 2015 16:44
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How old is the battery?
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Feb 10, 2015 16:55
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99% likely to be the battery going.
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Feb 10, 2015 17:20
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The battery is Edit- I'm retarded. I confused my car and bike. The SV650 battery is 2 years old. It's a Yuasa YUAM329BS YTX9-BS. Is there any reason not to replace it with the same? Zeris fucked around with this message at 21:02 on Feb 10, 2015 |
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Feb 10, 2015 20:58
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Could also be the regulator/rectifier. Check wiring and battery voltage when off/running and reved to 4k. 2 years is a little soon for a battery to fail unless it's been subject to abuse.
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Feb 10, 2015 21:17
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Sounds more like an R/R issue, it was able to run at lower speed because there was enough power left in the battery to energise the coils. mine did exactly that when it failed, i was able to keep going for a few days by keeping the battery topped up with a charger. Get a multimeter and follow the pdf on this page to troubleshoot it. http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/diagnosis-center/fault-finding-guide
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Feb 10, 2015 21:34
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echomadman posted:Sounds more like an R/R issue, it was able to run at lower speed because there was enough power left in the battery to energise the coils. mine did exactly that when it failed, i was able to keep going for a few days by keeping the battery topped up with a charger. Thanks. I'm still getting moved into my new place and when I can find my multimeter I'll give this a shot. Too bad I'm bike-less til then.
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Feb 10, 2015 21:49
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Just posted a Haynes SV650 service manual for sale. Forgot to pass it off to the guy when I sold my bike last year. Just found it in my garage. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3119867&pagenumber=53#post441928278 $15 shipped? 
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Feb 23, 2015 18:02
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rotaryfun posted:Just posted a Haynes SV650 service manual for sale. Forgot to pass it off to the guy when I sold my bike last year. Just found it in my garage. gimme
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Feb 23, 2015 18:32
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Dutymode posted:gimme Hey Duty, missed this post and saw someone elses PM's first. If the sale falls through I'll get in touch.
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Feb 23, 2015 21:48
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Would a speedometer cluster from a 2003 SV650S work on a 2004 SV650N?
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Mar 14, 2015 20:53
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Function, yes. You might need to adapt the wiring harness or acquire the N model harness - don't recall if those models use the same harnesses.
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Mar 15, 2015 06:51
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Zeris posted:My 2000 SV650 approaching 45k (only a few thousand ridden by me) needed a jump to start yesterday after a few months in storage. No problem. Then, on the highway, the odometer, tachometer and speedometer start flashing off/on; dials are dropping to zero and flying back up, etc. Looked like I was in the bermuda triangle. Going 70-ish, this continued til I left the highway, then it cleared up when my speeds dropped. 30-ish seconds after I left the ramp, making a slow right turn, everything died suddenly. This is exactly what was happening to my SV but with the added fun of not starting back up at all ever now. One of these days I'll get that multimeter... Speaking of. What should I be checking with that multimeter? Just every single wire on the bike or are there some in specific I should look for?
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Mar 17, 2015 20:07
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Connect to battery with the multimeter in DC mode, it should be over 12.4 or so if it's fresh off the charger. If it's not, replace the battery first. Then start the bike, see if the voltage goes up to about 14 or so when the bike is reved to around 5k. If it doesn't, bad R/R or stator. Check the stator by flipping the multimeter to AC mode, and comparing the 3 yellow wires that come out of the left side engine cover (there's a connector about 10 inches or so up the harness - compare 1->2, 2->3, 1->3). Those should be around 50v AC, IIRC. If they are all consistent, stator is good, so inspect wiring from stator to R/R. If all the wiring is good, then you need to replace the R/R. I recommend using a MOSFET unit, reference thread with pictures and write up here: http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=111850 Z3n fucked around with this message at 22:58 on Mar 17, 2015 |
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Mar 17, 2015 22:51
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Z3n posted:Connect to battery with the multimeter in DC mode, it should be over 12.4 or so if it's fresh off the charger. If it's not, replace the battery first. Well see the problem is that when I turn the key to On, nothing happens. All that I quoted previously was happening, and now the bike is just dead. Turning the key to Park turns those lights on, but the bike is 100% dead when turned On, so I can't test anything really but a battery. We're talking no dash, no headlights, tails, odo, nothing. I'm wondering if it's a green connector issue since it's a Gen 1 2001 650 and no other answer seems to support this kind of poo poo happening aside from the ignition switch contacts just being hosed in general, unless the stator being hosed would still allow the park lights to come on when prompted but the wiring diagram doesn't really seem to support that unless I missed something.
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Mar 17, 2015 23:35
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If the battery has died or had an internal defect, you will detect it when you turn the key on and the voltage drops like crazy. Fresh off the charger, it should be at about 12.6, with the key on, it should be at about 12.3 +/- .2v, if it's not in those ranges, all kinds of weird things will happen. Park working but nothing else sounds like ignition switch is hosed, but could also be a bad battery that when you put a larger load than the taillights on it, shorts internally. Can't tell without testing the battery, and bad batteries will have crazy failure modes. You can look at the wiring diagram and manually jump the contacts at the connector to turn the bike on if you want to isolate the ignition switch out of the equation. Z3n fucked around with this message at 00:08 on Mar 18, 2015 |
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Mar 18, 2015 00:04
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Z3n posted:If the battery has died or had an internal defect, you will detect it when you turn the key on and the voltage drops like crazy. Fresh off the charger, it should be at about 12.6, with the key on, it should be at about 12.3 +/- .2v, if it's not in those ranges, all kinds of weird things will happen. I put a fresh battery into the sucker to make sure that wasn't the case, but I'll borrow a multimeter to make sure the battery is within what it should be.
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Mar 18, 2015 00:07
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ArbitraryTA posted:I put a fresh battery into the sucker to make sure that wasn't the case, but I'll borrow a multimeter to make sure the battery is within what it should be. Just edited: You can jump the wiring harness directly to see if the ignition switch has gone bad. Look at the wiring harness, look at the wires that are connected when the switch is in the on conneciton, and jump those connectors. If the bike goes on, bad switch. Edit - if you need a hand with reading the wiring harness, let me know the year, model number, and bike and I'll provide more guidance.
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Mar 18, 2015 00:10
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poo poo. My bikes tank is pretty hosed. Bubbling outside and rusty inside. Got worse this winter in storage. Im trying to find a replacement tank but i just can't find one in right color. Ones with best condition are yellow and my 1st gen bike is silver. I'm just about to pull trigger on a very good condition yellow one. I can find blue and black ones but with dents and scratches. Yellow tank in silver bike might look uhhh, not good. However its in excellent condition with original tapes and all. a) just slap it on b) repaint (dont have the skill or any place to do it myself) I will most likely trade or sell it this summer and buy another bike
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Mar 18, 2015 11:39
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Barfolemew posted:
Then option c) gently caress it, leave the tank alone, sell as-is. Be sure you mention the rust in the ad and how cheap replacement tanks are on ebay.
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Mar 18, 2015 11:48
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Ola posted:Then option c) gently caress it, leave the tank alone, sell as-is. Be sure you mention the rust in the ad and how cheap replacement tanks are on ebay. Hmm, yeah. Maybe i should just try to sell it first as it is. So much trouble anyway with cost+postage (to finland) and all it would be 0 profit anyway. edit: ill get some pics today when i go to remove the battery. Still a bit early to start driving season here.
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Mar 18, 2015 11:56
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Took a picture from the gas tank and it does not quite look as bad as i remember. Some rust is shown inside but not a lot. Havent been a problem yet atleast. http://imgur.com/u7iG61F I'm not going to bother with buying a replacement but now im thinking if i should touch it or not. Don't really have any painting skills tho.
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Mar 18, 2015 17:09
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I decided to keep the bike afterall. Since i bought it two years ago ive had zero problems with it. Looks like poo poo, runs like a dream, sounds like a paint mixer. Ill ask the local shops about how much they take to fix the tank. Or i try to find it myself.
Barfolemew fucked around with this message at 20:33 on Mar 19, 2015 |
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Mar 19, 2015 20:16
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Barfolemew posted:I decided to keep the bike afterall. Since i bought it two years ago ive had zero problems with it. Looks like poo poo, runs like a dream, sounds like a paint mixer. Ill ask the local shops about how much they take to fix the tank. Or i try to fid it myself. Keep a search going, you'll find a paint matched tank sooner or later anyway.
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Mar 19, 2015 20:32
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If there's any local racing organizations near you (WERA, CMRA, etc.) you can look on their forums / ask around to find their local paint/bodywork guy who would likely do it cheapish. It's just a simple silver so you could probably get it done for less than $250 I'd think. If the rest of the paint is pretty banged up it might make the tank stick out like a sore thumb though..
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Mar 19, 2015 20:40
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Baller Witness Bro posted:If there's any local racing organizations near you (WERA, CMRA, etc.) you can look on their forums / ask around to find their local paint/bodywork guy who would likely do it cheapish. I'll ask around. I live in rural finland pretty much in the middle of nowhere so my options are pretty limited. Paint is ok ish on rest of the bike. Friend knows a guy who does painting and bodywork but i don't know if he is going to bother with just one tank.
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Mar 19, 2015 20:47
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Ah I figured this was in the US, my bad. This advice likely doesn't help much. You could do the prep yourself if you're comfortable stripping all the paint and spraying on some primer. There's more angles to a tank than a flat car panel so that might make the painter shy away but it's not like you need a show quality finish on the thing.
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Mar 19, 2015 20:54
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Baller Witness Bro posted:Ah I figured this was in the US, my bad. This advice likely doesn't help much. Yeah, I just did my plastics on mine myself. I bought my 09 back in the fall and the plastics were an awful faded red that looked horrible, but the tank looked it's normal awesome candy red. I decided that rather than trying to match it though, I just went matte black with them all. Came out looking pretty good. I'd post a photo, but I'm on a work trip at the moment. I do need to source replacement tail decals though.
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Mar 19, 2015 22:58
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ArbitraryTA posted:This is exactly what was happening to my SV but with the added fun of not starting back up at all ever now. One of these days I'll get that multimeter... My SV1K did this a few months back. Battery / R/R / Stator fine. It was the lovely stock wiring. $2 worth of parts and about an hour to fix. Worth checking if your green connector is borked. http://www.sv-portal.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38410
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Mar 20, 2015 05:41
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prukinski posted:My SV1K did this a few months back. Battery / R/R / Stator fine. It was the lovely stock wiring. $2 worth of parts and about an hour to fix. Worth checking if your green connector is borked. I am starting to think it is this. I distinctly remember smelling burning plastic when I think back on it. gently caress sake. Edit: Also the bike stalling out completely when it would go all Bermuda Triangle when throttling up the engine seems to be in line with descriptions of this green connector. Double edit: So for a carbed bike like my 2001 is should I look into draining the fuel out of the tank before lifting it or does it not matter? ArbitraryTA fucked around with this message at 09:24 on Mar 20, 2015 |
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Mar 20, 2015 09:15
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The tank will be heavier with gas in it, but if you're just lifting it up and not removing the tank entirely, it shouldn't matter. It has a vacuum petcock that stays shut all the time that the bike isn't running anyway. Even removing the tank with gas in it isn't a big deal; it's just a bit heavier and sloshier. I've done it a few times.
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Mar 20, 2015 17:08
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