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InitialDave posted:Much as it'd be funny to continue the "lol VAG", that's probably the fault of whoever messed with it last. (Me)
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Mar 16, 2015 20:57
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Mooseykins posted:(Me)
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Mar 16, 2015 21:04
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InitialDave posted:What happened? It strip out the aluminium when you removed the bolt to fit the polybush? The entire mount and polybush were changed some months ago, as the old one was worn. Threads didn't look great so they were Heli-coil'd. Was fine for months, then recently started knocking. Got worse and worse, one night driving into central London there was a loud clunk and it was obvious it was really bad. No idea where the front bolt went, no trace of it. They were both definitely tight, and both Heli-coil'd. Fitted larger bolts tonight, will swapp bell housings and will Heli-coil the replacement for M12 bolts. It just seemed to tear them out, back bolt pulled the Heli-coil out completely. hosed the hole pretty good, so it was redone to M12. Credit to the car, even with a completely disconnected mount, she still drove 2 miles home (uphill) fine!
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Mar 16, 2015 21:24
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The failure on this one is somewhere between the steering wheel and drivers seat.
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Mar 16, 2015 21:34
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Someones done some dumb poo poo to an STi motor: 
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Mar 16, 2015 21:34
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That's what one of my tranny crossmember bolts looked like when I dropped it. Luckily there was enough metal left to tap (after driving all over town to find an M12x1.25 tap and fresh bolts on a weekend) but I'll continue to poo poo my pants every time I hear a loud BANG from the underside of the car from now on. Probably should've helicoiled it uuugh. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 22:25 on Mar 16, 2015 |
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Mar 16, 2015 22:21
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InitialDave posted:Yeah, standard allen/hex is Satan's own wrenching configuration for anything that actually needs to be tightened up. I'm alright with larger size allen stuff (like 12mm or so and larger...) where it's bathed in oil and will never see water, dirt, or salt, like say for machine shop tooling. Small stuff that approximates a round hole anyways or it's gonna get dirty/rusty? gently caress right off and use anything else! XZN is alright, I'm fine with Torx if they aren't horribly rotten, and 12pts are pretty alright too. I've only ever had one issue with a 12pt and it was a reduced head (most 12s are...) 13mm 12pt on an M12 fastener that had seen 20 years of salt. So I dremeled the rust off, slapped a 5/8 hex nut over it, welded the nut to the flange of the bolt head, welded the remainder of the head to the inside of the nut, and popped the bolt right out.
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Mar 16, 2015 22:29
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Seat Safety Switch posted:That's what one of my tranny crossmember bolts looked like when I dropped it. Luckily there was enough metal left to tap (after driving all over town to find an M12x1.25 tap and fresh bolts on a weekend) but I'll continue to poo poo my pants every time I hear a loud BANG from the underside of the car from now on. Probably should've helicoiled it uuugh. I've had plenty of bolts pull their threads out, especially in aluminium. But i think this is the first time i've seen one pull its threads out and its Heli-coil. I have two odd threads because one hole was ok to just tap larger, and one needed Heli-coiling larger, so both M12, one 1.5 and 1.25 i think. gently caress knows, it only needs to last tomorrow, then i can swap boxes and parts to keep the LSD but replace the bellhousing. Dashcam caught the bang as my van spring snapped!  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DDUDPG0DPCo
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Mar 16, 2015 22:34
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Mar 17, 2015 01:43
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kastein posted:I've only ever had one issue with a 12pt and it was a reduced head (most 12s are...) 13mm 12pt on an M12 fastener that had seen 20 years of salt. So I dremeled the rust off, slapped a 5/8 hex nut over it, welded the nut to the flange of the bolt head, welded the remainder of the head to the inside of the nut, and popped the bolt right out. gently caress that.
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Mar 17, 2015 04:21
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I finally got around to finishing pulling the head off my 855T's engine. For those that don't know, it burned a valve in the #1 cylinder a month into ownership, and then I treated it mercilessly for a year afterwards. I take full credit for wiping the cam bearings due to getting lax on checking the oil, but the damage I took pictures of today is mostly all PO caused.  Note the carbon buildup on the valves. Some had even thicker deposits than these. I suspect that none of the POs ever really got down on this car, and certainly never did the all important PCV system refresh.  This is the #4 cylinder IIRC. Some of them looked like this while others were almost completely devoid of any crosshatching. All of them had a fairly decent ridge around the top of the bore, as well as signs of piston slap.  #3 cylinder  
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Mar 17, 2015 04:51
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Krakkles posted:XJ hub retaining bolt. I keep a 1/2" 12 point 13mm socket in the jeep just for that goddamn bolt. Mine are all well-anti seized by this point, but the first time? Yup, the very same.
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Mar 17, 2015 06:01
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Mooseykins posted:Well this shouldn't be.. What the hell am I even looking at? EightBit posted:I've never stripped a standard twelve point (double-hex) or a torx either. For the torque rating and filth factor, a loving hex key would work with fewer issues. I'm still not sure why the drive flange bolts don't have normal heads, instead of the inverted head they do have; these things are dirt traps, we had to hammer the bit into all twelve because the grime was hardened in. Everything on a KTM is Torx and I have yet to strip any Torx fasteners out but boy have I broken some Torx bits! Everyone knows phillips head is the best fastener type.
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Mar 17, 2015 06:05
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I don't know if you're trolling or not, but phillips head was designed to cam out over a certain torque value. They're basically guaranteed to slip and strip out.
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Mar 17, 2015 06:16
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Yeah, I always wondered why a phillips head driver was a tapered point and not just a flat plus-shaped rod end.
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Mar 17, 2015 06:33
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Robertson for small screws, triple square for big bolts.
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Mar 17, 2015 06:39
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EightBit posted:I don't know if you're trolling or not, but phillips head was designed to cam out over a certain torque value. They're basically guaranteed to slip and strip out. Most "Phillips" heads on Japanese cars are actually JIC fasteners that don't cam out like that.
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Mar 17, 2015 06:58
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ChewedFood posted:What the hell am I even looking at? MK 4 Golf lower gearbox mount.
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Mar 17, 2015 07:09
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Savington posted:Most "Phillips" heads on Japanese cars are actually JIC fasteners that don't cam out like that. Most people don't know the difference and/or have the appropriate driver. Using the wrong driver usually damages the screw, leading to it being stripped. There's a marking on the head, right? Good luck being able to see that, crammed into a tiny engine bay, twenty years later.
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Mar 17, 2015 07:14
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  drat leaf spring. Mooseykins fucked around with this message at 07:21 on Mar 17, 2015 |
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Mar 17, 2015 07:19
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Aaand we return to our usual programming, VAGLOL.
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Mar 17, 2015 07:27
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Slavvy posted:Aaand we return to our usual programming, VAGLOL. It's basically a Sprinter. Mercedes spring  That's my story and i'm sticking to it..
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Mar 17, 2015 07:31
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Sprinters are RWD though...
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Mar 17, 2015 07:38
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Slavvy posted:Sprinters are RWD though... Yeah.. and so are Crafters, like mine..
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Mar 17, 2015 22:23
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Well that's a bit different... 
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Mar 17, 2015 22:29
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Wait.....you actually got a flat from a shed? I think you deserve some kind of award or something.
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Mar 17, 2015 22:36
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 Managed to get this oil pan bolt shaved and spat out by the flywheel. It's me. I am the PO.
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Mar 17, 2015 23:04
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EightBit posted:I don't know if you're trolling or not, but phillips head was designed to cam out over a certain torque value. They're basically guaranteed to slip and strip out. Nobody would ever legitimately claim phillips fasteners > anything ever. Sarcasm, dude!
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Mar 18, 2015 00:09
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Better than flat head, that's for drat sure.
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Mar 18, 2015 00:33
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Mooseykins posted:Yeah.. and so are Crafters, like mine.. Oh. All the VW vans I've seen have been FWD, my mistake! Content:  This is the end result of someone using Loctite on the oil filter thread of a B8 A4.
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Mar 18, 2015 00:34
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Motronic posted:Wait.....you actually got a flat from a shed? Father did. Well not a flat, somehow that tire is still holding pressure just fine.
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Mar 18, 2015 00:56
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Slavvy posted:Oh. All the VW vans I've seen have been FWD, my mistake! Why would you locktite something you want to take off easily?
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Mar 18, 2015 01:00
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^^^^If I had to guess, maybe the old filter did not stay on. Slavvy posted:Content: Clearly the filter was not manly enough. Well it looks like a MANN Filter anyway. torpedan fucked around with this message at 01:04 on Mar 18, 2015 |
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Mar 18, 2015 01:01
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Slavvy posted:Oh. All the VW vans I've seen have been FWD, my mistake! Why. The. gently caress.
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Mar 18, 2015 02:14
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Courtesy of my Facebook feed: I'm sure it'll hold just fine.
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Mar 18, 2015 02:22
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I don't remember if it was here or another thread, does anyone have that picture of a rusty pickup truck where the frame rail is being held together with a wooden beam attached with nails using a bunch of keys as washers?
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Mar 18, 2015 02:50
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Grave $avings posted:Courtesy of my Facebook feed: gently caress it, it's exhaust. No shame. ... as far as I'm concerned exhaust systems are AWOL and presumed dead after you get about 500 feet from the road anyways.
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Mar 18, 2015 03:00
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Eh fair point. I guess for the northeast it ain't bad as far as exhuast's concerned. It is on this though:  Which is slowly becoming my acquaintance's Ecto-1. Pepperoneedy fucked around with this message at 03:08 on Mar 18, 2015 |
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Mar 18, 2015 03:05
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Grave $aving's photo reminds me of underwater photo of a shipwreck. Can just imagine a conger eel chilling out behind that exhaust pipe.
GRINDCORE MEGGIDO fucked around with this message at 04:08 on Mar 18, 2015 |
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Mar 18, 2015 04:06
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| # ? May 11, 2024 06:44 |
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I'd kill any of you for a Miller Meteor conversion Caddy.
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Mar 18, 2015 04:08
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