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Smash it Smash hit posted:which ampeg cab are you talking about? cause if I remember the Ampeg v4 cab I pretty compact actually. This exact one. I've thought about the MG series, but I've heard bad things about their durability.
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# ? Mar 16, 2015 20:07 |
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# ? May 13, 2024 08:47 |
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Mr. Wiggles posted:
I always thought those were kinda small and light to me? I play outta v2 cab and emperor 610 so small to me is relative. yeah I guess look into a 212, the mg series ones don't seem any less durable than the 1960a(which is like a 85% chance you'll need to replace handle) but they do sound very meh. exactly how much are you wishing to spend?
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# ? Mar 16, 2015 20:17 |
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$300 or so. Very happy to buy used. And it's not that it is so big in actuality, it's more that I'm trying to save space in the van and my cab is the biggest thing besides the bass drum.
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# ? Mar 16, 2015 20:35 |
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Mr. Wiggles posted:$300 or so. Very happy to buy used. yeah I think an oversized 212 is probably your best bet. Either an avatar used or you maybbbbe able to find an orange used for that price. My buds Mills Custom do really neat cabs to specifications may cost a but more than 300 tho
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# ? Mar 16, 2015 21:11 |
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Mr. Wiggles posted:$300 or so. Very happy to buy used. Unloaded cabinet and two new Warehouse Guitar Speakers (ET90?) for $160. There are also some American style speakers in similar wattage as well. Should be under 300 if you can find a used cabinet or a cheap new one.
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# ? Mar 16, 2015 21:35 |
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I could put speakers in, no prob. So question on that, then. On a cab like this one, with the two inputs, how does that work? Do I run a two cables from my head, one from the speaker A and the other from speaker B outputs? Why have a dual input speaker cabinet?
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# ? Mar 16, 2015 22:18 |
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Mr. Wiggles posted:I could put speakers in, no prob. So question on that, then. On a cab like this one, with the two inputs, how does that work? Do I run a two cables from my head, one from the speaker A and the other from speaker B outputs? Why have a dual input speaker cabinet? you would hook up both speakers in series or parallel to one input and then set up the other input to run either series or parallel if you wish to daisy chain it. I would prob just hook it to one input and put tape over the other one
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# ? Mar 17, 2015 02:08 |
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Smash it Smash hit posted:you would hook up both speakers in series or parallel to one input and then set up the other input to run either series or parallel if you wish to daisy chain it. I would prob just hook it to one input and put tape over the other one You could always link them internally and use the second as an output for a second series link. I've got some single pa speakers that are set up that way, it's actually kinda nice.
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# ? Mar 17, 2015 02:20 |
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Oh, okay. Cool.
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# ? Mar 17, 2015 04:14 |
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A surprisingly nice and small 4x10 bass cab is the original Fender Rumble 410 cab. I once bought one just because I had a show and couldn't fit my Marshall VBC412 in my car, and it turned out I liked the Fender cab quite a bit.
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# ? Mar 17, 2015 20:11 |
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Is there a single cheap combo alternative to the Marshall 1962 model?
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# ? Mar 18, 2015 07:32 |
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So I'm going to take the plunge with my first tube amp and have narrowed it down to the following 4 choices after demoing them (or something very similar) this past weekend. Previous amp was an ID Core 10 that's poo poo the bed after only having it for a year so I've pretty much sworn off blackstar for my next purchase. #1 VHT Special 6 Ultra. I was only able to play the Special 6 instead of the Ultra but it sounds good both clean and driven but nothing that really stood out to me. Only thing really lacking is a traditional tone stack and simulated output (effects out and line out are paralleled) , but it's point to point so I can mod the gently caress out of it which I would probably have to because of the stock meh sounds. $380 #2 Marshall DSL5C. Serviceable clean sound but the dirt is amazing. Most expensive but also the most complete option so aside from maybe trying different tubes I wouldn't touch it. Simulated output was only slightly worse than the TubeMeister 5 and only on the 1w setting. $500 #3 Hughes & Kettner TubeMeister 5. Favorite clean sound but worse dirt sound by far, although other reviews have said a pedal is basically required for that on this amp. The 8" speaker is a bit too small and it doesn't have two channels or a low power mode although with the redbox out and power soak I wouldn't need it. $430 #4 Vox Lil Night Train. Great dirty and clean, but no full tone stack and it's pretty bare bones, the stock speaker in the cab sucks and I almost wrote it off until I tried it with the H&K 10" cab and that's what I'm basing my choices off of. Simulated out isn't that great but at 2w it's already quiet enough. $330 + $70ish for a new speaker.
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# ? Mar 18, 2015 20:41 |
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burritonegro posted:Speaking of which, has anyone tried a Quilter? No, god drat it because but I'm pretty much obsessed with them now and they just released a bunch of cool poo poo like the Micro Pro Mach 2 (now in black!) and Aviator Gold (the gain channel is gainier). There's going to be a "heavy duty" version of the Micro Pro 12 sometime soon-ish with a neo speaker so the whole thing weighs in at 21 pounds. Best place to get them if you're a poor seems to be AMS because they have a bunch of scratch and dents in stock for cheaper, and also payment plans that are probably some kind of horrible scam. I wish the company was getting more attention because they build in a lot of really useful stuff, like the ability to handle basically any speaker cab, a great-sounding XLR out, and CAT5 to connect to footswitch. And to me, doing a class D analog amp with a relatively flat EQ option seems as close to a future-proof piece of gear as you'll find in the world of guitar. You're free of the expensive/inferior trade-off in the tube world, but keep the modelling offboard so advances in processing don't obsolesce your amp in a month. And the things just sound great in almost every demo I've heard. But other than a very vague suggestion that L&M might carry them someday there's no sign of a dealer with a storefront picking them up north of the border. So, everyone buy them so that some of you will hate them and I can sneak down to Bellingham and grab one for cheap.
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# ? Mar 19, 2015 09:38 |
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A Winner is Jew posted:So I'm going to take the plunge with my first tube amp and have narrowed it down to the following 4 choices after demoing them (or something very similar) this past weekend. Previous amp was an ID Core 10 that's poo poo the bed after only having it for a year so I've pretty much sworn off blackstar for my next purchase. Have you already looked in the AC4C1 or AC4C112 and ruled them out? I'd like to hear your thoughts on that. I actually went to two stores today looking for the amps you listed, because I'm looking for something similar, and they didn't have a single one of them. I did get to play the AC4C112, AC4C1, Bugera V5, and some Blackstar 1W and 5W amps (listed by my personal opinion of them - best to worst) and I really liked the AC4C112 the most.
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# ? Mar 20, 2015 01:22 |
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RiggenBlaque posted:Have you already looked in the AC4C1 or AC4C112 and ruled them out? I'd like to hear your thoughts on that. I actually went to two stores today looking for the amps you listed, because I'm looking for something similar, and they didn't have a single one of them. I did get to play the AC4C112, AC4C1, Bugera V5, and some Blackstar 1W and 5W amps (listed by my personal opinion of them - best to worst) and I really liked the AC4C112 the most. I liked the AC41C (played the blue with the 10" and loved it) and the AC4HW (holy poo poo it owns but not $300 over budget owns) but ruled them out for being (a) too loud for what I'm looking for with a practice amp since my wife is in grad school (b) being fairly sparse on features. I also tried the AC4TV with the power scaling option but dear god it sounds nothing like what an AC should sound like so dismissed it out of hand. The lil night train was something a friend had since they're hard to find online (jrr shop still has them apparently which is where I would be buying it), the VHT I played wasn't the Ultra but it was a used one in pretty good shape so the sound shouldn't be far off from the Ultra, with the other two being on the floor at the time. A Winner is Jew fucked around with this message at 19:37 on Mar 22, 2015 |
# ? Mar 20, 2015 01:40 |
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Last night I played on a dual rectifier and fell in absolute love with the tone. I have a question though, are there heads with similar characteristics but at a lower price point? From what I've been reading viable options are Bugera's 333xl and the B52 AT100. Have any of you tried one of the above amps? Would love some advice.
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# ? Mar 20, 2015 15:15 |
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saviro posted:Last night I played on a dual rectifier and fell in absolute love with the tone. I have a question though, are there heads with similar characteristics but at a lower price point? From what I've been reading viable options are Bugera's 333xl and the B52 AT100. Have any of you tried one of the above amps? Would love some advice. What is it you liked about it? Dual recs cover a lot of ground.
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# ? Mar 21, 2015 02:52 |
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saviro posted:Last night I played on a dual rectifier and fell in absolute love with the tone. I have a question though, are there heads with similar characteristics but at a lower price point? Used dual recs are a dime a dozen. Or if you don't need the tube rectifier option or 100w of headroom single recs are even cheaper.
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# ? Mar 21, 2015 17:12 |
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The short version of the story is, I recently received this as a gift: It's a JCA20H in a nice custom wood enclosure. It is nice, and I like it a lot. The slightly longer version of the story: I do a lot of little repair work for my friends' local band - fixing cables, lights, speaker crossovers, whatever - and have always been perfectly content to not pay cover and maybe get a beer or two in return. They're my buds, ya know? I just like helping them keep stuff running so the shows go smoothly. A couple of weeks ago the guitar player surprised me with the amp. He knows I'm always on the lookout for decent gear for my son to use, and apparently this one had been sitting tubeless in a corner for quite some time. He figured we'd probably give it a better home. Ordered new tubes, picked up a cheap Peavey 1x12 cab, and...I'm not sure the kid's even turned it off yet. It's been a very rock 'n' roll week at my house.
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# ? Mar 22, 2015 13:47 |
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Acid Reflux posted:The short version of the story is, I recently received this as a gift: Kickass. I have the JCA22H and it'll always be my little poo poo kicker amp. Love it. Sockington fucked around with this message at 14:57 on Mar 22, 2015 |
# ? Mar 22, 2015 14:53 |
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Turkey Farts posted:What is it you liked about it? Dual recs cover a lot of ground. I liked the tightness when pushed. I'll look into used ones, If I can move my current amp for a decent price.
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# ? Mar 23, 2015 19:11 |
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I could use a yes/no. I'm looking for an amp with a fairly lush reverb and nice chimey cleans but breaks up decently and takes pedals fairly well. I'm thinking about a Vox AC15 Twin instead of a TRRI, but I've never really messed with Vox amps, does this seem like a good substitution? I don't need a ton of wattage.
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# ? Mar 24, 2015 17:50 |
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himajinga posted:I could use a yes/no. I'm looking for an amp with a fairly lush reverb and nice chimey cleans but breaks up decently and takes pedals fairly well. I'm thinking about a Vox AC15 Twin instead of a TRRI, but I've never really messed with Vox amps, does this seem like a good substitution? I don't need a ton of wattage. You just described the Fender Princeton Reverb to a T.
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# ? Mar 24, 2015 19:17 |
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like I realize that I could get away with one head/can when playing a mic'd bar with good PA but, nah.
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# ? Mar 29, 2015 20:07 |
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I was in the studio last night and got to use my old Gibson Explorer amp that I love so much, but can never use because its not loud enough. I really like my big Sunn stack for the amount of power it puts out, but there is just nothing that sounds like that little 18 watt amp from the 50s.
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# ? Apr 1, 2015 18:38 |
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Mr. Wiggles posted:I was in the studio last night and got to use my old Gibson Explorer amp that I love so much, but can never use because its not loud enough. I really like my big Sunn stack for the amount of power it puts out, but there is just nothing that sounds like that little 18 watt amp from the 50s. my friend who played/plays in a legendary punk band(s) secret recording amp is a modded gibson mercury
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# ? Apr 2, 2015 00:27 |
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It's a very unique sound. Is it the tubes or what that make them sound that way? And why did Gibson get out of the amplifier business anyway?
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# ? Apr 2, 2015 03:34 |
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Mr. Wiggles posted:It's a very unique sound. Is it the tubes or what that make them sound that way? And why did Gibson get out of the amplifier business anyway? One side of the mercury is fender esque and the other is a more Marshall sound with a bit more mid hump/gain. from what my buddy told me is by the time they started making amps most people were already set on fender guitar through fender amps and gibson guitars through Marshall amps, and the sales weren't there. they are cool as gently caress tho both in sound and design, their mock future space atheistic is tight
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# ? Apr 2, 2015 17:15 |
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I have a Fender Twin Reverb from 1981 that is in completely terrible condition: It is missing a speaker entirely, the one speaker it does have doesn't work, and for several years it was being run through a large bass cabinet to compensate for the lack of speakers which may have been an impedance mismatch but I'm not totally sure on that. In any case, it doesn't work at all now, the tubes don't light up when you try to turn it on and it produces no signal, but there's nothing visibly wrong in the back as far as I can tell. I don't know if this is enough information about it, but does anyone know if this thing sounds fixable? When it did work, I always really liked the tone of it, more so than new twins, so I'd like to ideally keep as much of the original hardware intact as possible. Assuming the tubes are all in working order and are just not lighting for some reason, would it be worth it to have new speakers put in? Or would it end up costing more to fix than just buying a new twin? Disclaimer: None of the misuse that ruined this amp was perpetrated by me. VVV Yeah the fuse looks intact, if a little discolored on the ends. Relayer fucked around with this message at 20:27 on Apr 5, 2015 |
# ? Apr 5, 2015 18:48 |
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Have you checked the fuse?
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# ? Apr 5, 2015 19:42 |
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Check the continuity on the fuse, not just the appearance.
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# ? Apr 5, 2015 21:13 |
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if it's not powering up then it's probably the fuse. this doesn't diagnose the problem unless you are lucky. I have purchased heads before where the fuse blew cause of a power surge and walked away with a perfectly functional for cheap. the most likely cause for fuse dying is power tube dying which will be a 100 dollar fix or so. I wouldn't worry about the impedance mismatch, fenders tend to be very durable and easily handle a jump one notch in either direction ie: runs at 4 ohms it handles 8ohms or 2 ohms fine. not recommended of course but it's not as temperamental as a Marshall. replace fuse, try to run it, if I blows then try to pull the first and third tubes. Usually it's the first tube that goes. make sure there is a load attached. when you pull two tubes, make sure you adjust the impediance, if the selector says 8 it is actually running at 4 now and so on and so forth.
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# ? Apr 5, 2015 21:32 |
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I have a '70s V4B. I want to run a radial DI box from the "ext.amp" jack on the back and run it to a PA when playing live. From my understanding this should send my sound after the preamp to the board. Is this correct?
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# ? Apr 6, 2015 02:09 |
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Relayer posted:I don't know if this is enough information about it, but does anyone know if this thing sounds fixable? When it did work, I always really liked the tone of it, more so than new twins, so I'd like to ideally keep as much of the original hardware intact as possible. Assuming the tubes are all in working order and are just not lighting for some reason, would it be worth it to have new speakers put in? Or would it end up costing more to fix than just buying a new twin? It's fixable. They're always fixable. That's one of the nice things about them. How much it will cost to fix depends on what's wrong with it right now, but I guarantee it won't cost as much as buying a new Twin. As for speakers, I just bought a pair of Weber High Power Chicago 12"s to put in a '75 Twin, and they sound great. I think it came to about $250 or so.
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# ? Apr 6, 2015 14:17 |
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Bruce Boxliker posted:I have a '70s V4B. I want to run a radial DI box from the "ext.amp" jack on the back and run it to a PA when playing live. From my understanding this should send my sound after the preamp to the board. Is this correct? yah that should do the trick, but you gotta keep a load to speaker cabinet as well. iirc the ext.amp jack sends like a 1000ohm load to whatever source.
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# ? Apr 6, 2015 15:38 |
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Smash it Smash hit posted:yah that should do the trick, but you gotta keep a load to speaker cabinet as well. iirc the ext.amp jack sends like a 1000ohm load to whatever source. Cool, that's what I thought, thanks.
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# ? Apr 6, 2015 16:45 |
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also for v4 make sure not to connect a single cab with the ext. speaker jack. In old Ampegs those were only activated when the primary speaker jack is connected. A friend hooked up my v4 with that and played it for like 10 minutes before I notified him he is a loving idiot. ( it plays REALLY quiet)
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# ? Apr 6, 2015 16:58 |
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Yeah, the ext amp jacks on a V4B are actually wired as a cathode follower from the V3 valve, for the reason of lower impedance. On a V4/VT22, however, there's an ext amp in jack that is a switched jack, which lifts from the ext amp out jack. It's a bit weird.
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# ? Apr 6, 2015 20:12 |
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Also on my early 70s V4 you can run a signal IN the ext. amp jack, bypassing the preamp section completely.
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# ? Apr 7, 2015 18:18 |
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# ? May 13, 2024 08:47 |
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You actually still hit the second half of a 12DW7, but it's low mu (17). It's really kind of a shame that the 12DW7 died out, because they were cool tubes, combining one half of a 12ax7 and one half of a 12au7 (or very similar).
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# ? Apr 7, 2015 19:54 |