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Slow is Fast posted:2.2 is a different motor. 2.5 crank in a 2.0 is a fun setup and my goto for a 2.0 with spun bearings because if the crank and rods are already hosed the only extra cost is the pistons.
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Mar 19, 2015 22:46
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jamal posted:2.5 crank in a 2.0 is a fun setup and my goto for a 2.0 with spun bearings because if the crank and rods are already hosed the only extra cost is the pistons. Tell me more of this dark crank magic. Does it just change the stroke from the 75 of the ej20 to the 79 of the ej25?
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Mar 19, 2015 22:59
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Yep. 2.0 and 2.5 turbo rods are all the same length, so you just use an sti crank, any set of rods, plus mahle (or other) stroker pistons with the wrist pin 2mm higher. Faster spool for a nice bump in the low/mid range. While you are going to a worse bore/stroke ratio, the 2.0 wrx engine isn't great at high rpm, and it will still be just fine at 7000-7500 or whatever. The only real downside is you need to get it tuned, which opens a can of worms for other parts that would be easy to install when it's apart.
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Mar 19, 2015 23:06
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jamal posted:Yep. 2.0 and 2.5 turbo rods are all the same length, so you just use an sti crank, any set of rods, plus mahle (or other) stroker pistons with the wrist pin 2mm higher. Faster spool for a nice bump in the low/mid range. While you are going to a worse bore/stroke ratio, the 2.0 wrx engine isn't great at high rpm, and it will still be just fine at 7000-7500 or whatever. The only real downside is you need to get it tuned, which opens a can of worms for other parts that would be easy to install when it's apart. hmmm.... To prevent the catastrophic wallet collapse by the upgrade cascade, could i switch the the ball bearing version of the td04 or a td04 twinscroll without also needing injectors and fuel pump or would the gains not be worth it? Are there any cams that lend themselves to this build over stock? (again here goes wallet cascade)
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Mar 19, 2015 23:39
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You know, a cosworth long block is only $16k.
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Mar 19, 2015 23:40
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Powershift posted:You know, a cosworth long block is only $16k. I always see that and wonder what could make it worth it. Outfront will deck your block for 800 bucks and forged everything isn't that much.
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Mar 19, 2015 23:49
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It says cosworth on it. And you get to wait 6 months. And then when the valvetrain starts making noise they'll say "sorry, you broke it in wrong or abused it." But the cosworth components are all really nice, especially their billet cranks and ported heads. You can buy the rods and pistons and put them in a motor yourself for a lot less though. toplitzin posted:hmmm.... I don't think a twin scroll or ball bearing td04 exist, but if they do they would not be worth buying because you would still only make like 250hp. Going twin scroll means a whole new manifold, up, and downpipe too. Stock STi turbo would be a good start, and yeah you'd want some injectors to go with it. Any bigger and you need an intercooler too. Also at this point there is no reason for cams.
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Mar 19, 2015 23:51
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jamal posted:It says cosworth on it. And you get to wait 6 months. And then when the valvetrain starts making noise they'll say "sorry, you broke it in wrong or abused it." Dammit, we opened the 
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Mar 19, 2015 23:54
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Is there a good guide out there for replacing hatchback struts? I got mine half off before the one that wasn't broken blew out, and I was loving around for a while trying to find how to remote the bottom part of the strut. I got the top off fine, just using a crescent wrench to get the bolt out. But past that I'm lost, and I really don't want to risk the first going out while I do the second. Should I vice grip the first one after I put it in, or will that lead to failure?
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Mar 20, 2015 00:21
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A hot air gun should work to. Not a hair-dryer, a proper pipe bending one. Heat it up and scrape it off. E: about the bags on the exhaust.
underage at the vape shop fucked around with this message at 01:08 on Mar 20, 2015 |
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Mar 20, 2015 01:05
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For the bags on exhaust: alcohol isn't going to work, polyethylene is really resistant to solvents. You'll need something really vicious and chlorinated to dissolve it off, melting or burning it off is probably the easier and less carcinogenic way to go. How hard is it now that it's solidified? If it's really hard maybe you could take it off with a wire wheel?
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Mar 20, 2015 01:34
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I am attempting to buy a 2015 WRX Premium (option package 11), manual, has "port-installed" accessories of: RGC - System Security Shock Sensor KCD - Auto Dimming Mirror w/ compass & HL 041 - STI Short throw shifter (WRX) They have me at $30160 + doc fee ($134) + tax (6% PA sales tax 1809.60) + non-tax fees (172.15) so I'm at $32,275.75. Is this standard or overpriced? I asked multiple times for incentives but they just aren't giving me any because they are so popular. Any thoughts?
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Mar 20, 2015 01:48
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Go to a different dealer? I've never bought a new car but the PO of my wrx got it new and told me they went to 10+ dealerships and saved a couple grand. They ended up buying it from the dealership that was closest to where I was living at the time, and they lived over an hour away from it, depends how far you are willing to go really. My car was one of the last blobeyes in the country though, they were getting rid of them to sell the hawkeyes, so you might be out of luck.
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Mar 20, 2015 02:21
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toplitzin posted:Dammit, we opened the quoting myself, but a quick dive into ebay motors and google came up with about $15-1800 for the base parts. A NOS nitride 2.5 crank is about $350, the pistons $600 (mahle), and about 400 for rods (manley) - 800(crower). Plus boring the block to 92.5 or 93mm depending on which pistons i want/how bad it may be? That a sound about right?
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Mar 20, 2015 03:47
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Yeah, you'll want it torn apart and to have a machine shop inspect and measure the bores before you decide on piston size. Also buy at least the bearings from them because they will hopefully be measuring and mixing sets if necessary. Get crank from SGP or wherever, and I'll get you my pricing on pistons and rods. Also you want a new oil pump and cooler. Hopefully everything else is still good and things like cam journals didn't get all scored up.
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Mar 20, 2015 05:12
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A preview of things to come. 
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Mar 21, 2015 03:35
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Just curious how difficult/possible it would be to replace the front axle on a 4th gen outback in a parking lot or something. Both the front CV boots are leaking on my mades's outback and she can't afford to have it fixed, just trying to figure out if its a reasonably feasible job for a parking lot warrior. Can get a reconditioned axle pretty cheap, should I go this route or aftermarket? A new OEM one is over $400 which seems a bit steep for me. Doing the brakes too when I tackle it, anything else worth refreshing (120k miles) while I'm digging around in there?
HEY VAPER fucked around with this message at 15:19 on Mar 21, 2015 |
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Mar 21, 2015 15:16
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Should be able to do it in a parking lot. I've found the easiest way is to remove the two strut bolts and just mark the upper camber bolt to make sure the alignment doesn't change when you put it back together. And I've been told you don't need to drain trans fluid, just jack up the front high enough. Aftermarket axles are fine, at least so far in my case, but you can get oem axles from a junkyard of dubious mileage for about the same price. The oem axles seem to be a bit higher quality from a cursory glance. Think about just replacing the boots, it's not a crazy difficult job and would be much cheaper if the joints are still in good condition. There aren't really "while you're in there jobs" for this, if it ain't broke no need to fix it.
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Mar 21, 2015 15:57
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I thought if you only did boots, any crap that had already gotten in there would keep eating away at the joint. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but I think they got rid of the lovely roll pin design on the CV axle by the '05, so it should be a lot easier for you than for me.
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Mar 21, 2015 16:17
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I thought if you only did boots, any crap that had already gotten in there would keep eating away at the joint. Doing the boots implies you flush the joint clean and fill it with fresh grease. You can get away with only the boot if it's a small tear and very recent, but grease is cheap and this lets you examine the joint before you put it back together.
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Mar 21, 2015 16:21
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I would fart a new axle in and then reboot the spare at your convenience, ideally indoors where it's warm and dry and you can have a G&T by the fire.
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Mar 21, 2015 16:31
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I would fart a new axle in and then reboot the spare at your convenience, ideally indoors where it's warm and dry and you can have a G&T by the fire. This is what I did. Learn on the cheap aftermarket for the replacement and reboot the OEM. If/when the aftermarket one fails I have the rebooted one on hand to put in. I did not drain the transmission but in hindsight I would go for new axle seals while doing the job. Otherwise you are doing it again soon.
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Mar 21, 2015 18:21
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Thanks for the advice everyone!Bajaha posted:Doing the boots implies you flush the joint clean and fill it with fresh grease. You can get away with only the boot if it's a small tear and very recent, but grease is cheap and this lets you examine the joint before you put it back together. She's been driving on it like this for quite a while and of course never bothered to tell me because HEY MY CAR IS AN APPLIANCE AND THE DEALERSHIP SAID IT WILL BE THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS so its new axle time. Plus I'm not really sure how I would flush it without access to water air electricity etc. Seat Safety Switch posted:I would fart a new axle in and then reboot the spare at your convenience, ideally indoors where it's warm and dry and you can have a G&T by the fire. Apartment + packed full storage unit makes this dubiously worth the effort, but my sister actually might be taking the washer+drier in a week or two, so I'll neglect this for a bit longer and see if I end up with room to shove a Subie axle, sounds like a good idea.
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Mar 21, 2015 21:36
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^don't you live on the eastside? there's a place called stew's garage in kirkland which rents lifts and tools by the hour.
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Mar 21, 2015 21:38
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BraveUlysses posted:^don't you live on the eastside? there's a place called stew's garage in kirkland which rents lifts and tools by the hour. oh whoa that place finally opened? Thanks, that's going to change my life. Finally ranting about eastside drivers in AI has truly paid off.
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Mar 21, 2015 22:28
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If you want to reboot the trans side of the old axle, there's a snap ring you need to remove before you can get the new boot slipped on. You can do it with needlenose pliers but apparently the special snowflake snapring tool makes it way easier.
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Mar 21, 2015 22:36
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BIG HORNY COW posted:If you want to reboot the trans side of the old axle, there's a snap ring you need to remove before you can get the new boot slipped on. You can do it with needlenose pliers but apparently the special snowflake snapring tool makes it way easier. Any different from a regular old snapring tool? I have one of those.... somewhere...
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Mar 21, 2015 22:46
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What's so bad about the roll pin design? I think they're super easy to replace.
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Mar 22, 2015 00:28
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It took me like twenty tries to get the hole lined up properly. It would probably be significant easier with a lift or something, or a fiber-optic light.
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Mar 22, 2015 03:42
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Hey guys, I recently bought an 06 liberty 2.5i (australian legacy) and after about a week driving it get a CEL with no noticeable change in performance. I took it to the mechanic to get the codes read and the only thing its showing is a history code for a maf sensor. The mechanic then reset the ECU and I drove it home only for the CEL to come on the next time I started the car. Anyway, its going back to the mechanic on monday, does anyone have any ideas on what the problem could be?
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Mar 22, 2015 03:48
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Whereabouts in Aus are you? If you are in Brisbane, instead of giving that mechanic more money to not do much, Scorpion Subaru or CNJ Motorsports will probably do a lot more to help you, both are very experienced with subarus. Scorpion is in Capalaba but they recently got broken into and had a customers track sti stolen, so I'm not sure if they are open. CNJ is in Slacks Creek. CNJ are good enough that if it's a common enough issue, they can tell you the part and cost for them to fix it after a few minutes looking at the car.
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Mar 22, 2015 04:07
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toplitzin posted:i really wanna do the jdm v7 swap, but thats at least 8 grand with all the fuckery involved. Mine certainly wasn't 8 grand. It was more like 5? Though I did all the work, if you were paying someone it would be more. Plus you don't want to go v7, v8's are way more available now. You need a new exhaust, but jamal can sell you the parts you need, he sold me most of what I needed.
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Mar 22, 2015 04:12
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:Whereabouts in Aus are you? If you are in Brisbane, instead of giving that mechanic more money to not do much, Scorpion Subaru or CNJ Motorsports will probably do a lot more to help you, both are very experienced with subarus. Scorpion is in Capalaba but they recently got broken into and had a customers track sti stolen, so I'm not sure if they are open. CNJ is in Slacks Creek. I'm in orange nsw unfortunately.
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Mar 22, 2015 04:21
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It's not really unfortunate that you get to live next to Bathurst.
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Mar 22, 2015 04:23
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This isn't a rip on the product, it's a question about matching the product to my lifestyle. I'm bored with the Saabaru (=EJ255 Wagon). It's a great car; it's been utterly reliable aside from expected nuisance problems (currently a possible, very slow oil seep somewhere). I love having passing power and speed when I want it, I love having AWD on the rare occasions that I need it, I love having a wagon all of the time. My complaints about the car itself are short; I've had it for almost three years and still can't get used to having the clutch pedal fight me all the time or the agricultural shift feel - if I concentrate and act much more slower than usual on clutch depression and release, I can shift smoothly, but otherwise I'm not as seamless a driver on this car as I am on the Miata or other cars with lighter clutches and rev-happy powertrains. I'd thought I'd get to used to this, but I haven't. My issues with where the car fit in my life are greater. It's a very practical DD but not the best city car; it really wants to be pushed at high speeds around technical corners. There are few places that I can do this without getting a ticket; traffic enforcement has recently become busy in my state. I'm driving the car at 3/10s around town or on the freeway most of the time, as a DD, without much thrill. When I do get it on a backroad that isn't patrolled, everything falls together and all my complaints go away; the car feels in its element and I feel like it's very easy to drive smoothly and reap the rewards. It is a great car, but I wonder if I'm starting to take it for granted or am just falling out of love. I much prefer driving the Miata around town every chance I get, although those will be fewer and fewer as I'm planning to have a kid. The Miata has made me realize how much I like lightweight cars that I can drive at 8/10s down the twisty road to the grocery store, and I'm looking at adding an E30 now because of it. I don't want to get rid of the Saabaru because it will make a great family car - I bought it cash at a good price, it's reliable, safe, lower mileage, etc. I know it was designed to be what it is and I shouldn't fight that, but I wonder if there's anything I can do to make it feel more light on its feet; whether it's easing up clutch resistance, improving shifter feel (I'm considering a short shifter kit here), or anything else I can do to edge the car closer to the Miata/E30 category. I know they're apples and oranges and I will never and should never try to get the Saabaru to be a lightweight sports car, and that I should accept the WRX product for what it is, but maybe there's something, some marginal thing i can do to make the car more easygoing and fun to drive at slow speeds. Suggestions? blk fucked around with this message at 04:30 on Mar 22, 2015 |
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Mar 22, 2015 04:23
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Just changed the VCG and spark plugs on the passenger side of my 02 wrx and I'm now getting a CEL and misfire. Which color of harneds plug goes to the coil on the front of the engine...maybe I swapped the harnesses on the coils?
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Mar 22, 2015 04:38
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HEY VAPER posted:Any different from a regular old snapring tool? I have one of those.... somewhere... It's not a normal snap ring with the holes, although you might be able to just replace it with one. It has flat ends that have to be pressed apart from inside and the pliers have knurling on the outside of the jaws.
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Mar 22, 2015 06:21
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 I went to go see this a while ago and it definitely needs a clutch, but the body is cleaner than any Canadian Subaru has right to be. Are there any maintenance needs that should be tended to on a car of that age and milage? Timing belt perhaps?
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Mar 22, 2015 18:36
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Timing belt, water pump, head gasket. Am I forgetting anything?
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Mar 22, 2015 19:04
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My sister is looking at buying an impreza hatch. The 2.2s never had any head gasket issues, right?
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Mar 22, 2015 22:09
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