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If money is no object, definitely get a Silentaire Compressor. They perform great, and are dead quiet. If you want something a bit cheaper, but still works great, I use the Iwata PowerJet Pro. You can definitely hear it, but it's very quiet. I use it in a condo environment, and never had a complaint. It's got a small tank on it too, which helps prevent any pulsation, and the compressor won't be on constantly. Depending on the pressure, you can get about a minute out of the tank if you held the trigger down constantly, and it can refill itself in about 15 seconds.
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Mar 22, 2015 03:25
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Damnit quit selling it I don't need another one. I've already got 15  (Estate sale windfall, before someone asks).
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Mar 22, 2015 03:30
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The Locator posted:That airbrush is supposed to be really good, but there are also a lot of reviews that knock it for the very small paint cup, and it's also a very fine detailing brush. If that is what you need, then yea, it gets great reviews, but if you are looking to shoot primer for say 1:200 scale battleship hulls, it may not be the right choice. The 20/20-2, the one linked, has a bigger cup. I went on and grabbed this since I'm already into Badger brushes with the 150.
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Mar 22, 2015 03:32
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:If money is no object, definitely get a Silentaire Compressor. They perform great, and are dead quiet. The Iwata is one of the compressor's I've been considering, but I don't think I've got anything coming up on my projects that will really use the air brush until I start my next big ship, so I'm not in a rush. Thanks!
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Mar 22, 2015 03:58
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The Locator posted:That airbrush is supposed to be really good, but there are also a lot of reviews that knock it for the very small paint cup, and it's also a very fine detailing brush. If that is what you need, then yea, it gets great reviews, but if you are looking to shoot primer for say 1:200 scale battleship hulls, it may not be the right choice. Any parts I'd be priming or doing a basecoat on are relatively small, and while there could be a lot of them refilling the pain cup just kinda sounds like adding more paint to my brush, so that doesn't sound like too much of a pain, and it looks like it''d be great for illustration work as well. I might as well pick one up. Give me something to look forward to when I move.
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Mar 22, 2015 08:54
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:No one has really ever had a concrete answer why Amazon has them so cheap sometimes. There's been some rumour that they're refurbs, but the vast majority of reviews on Amazon are positive. Even if it is a refurb, it's still an amazing deal at the price. Can't say if they're refurbs but Amazon gets crazy deals on them because they buy 500-1000 at a time and blow them out as loss leaders. I totally agree that the Sotar is NOT for beginners or as a first (or maybe even second) airbrush. It's super-delicate, has a small paint paint cup and won't be very good for basecoating or priming, which is what most first-time airbrushers will want to do.
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Mar 22, 2015 11:42
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:If anyone is looking to get a high-quality airbrush for ultra-cheap, Amazon is having another amazing sale on the Badger Sotar 20/20. It's on for $97, that's $320 bucks off! I'm in the UK and have been keeping an eye out for a new fine detail airbrush. Just ordered one of these and with international delivery it's still only £85! Top notch heads up, thank you. I've really only been using Iwata brushes to now, so looking forward to trying it out.
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Mar 22, 2015 17:17
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big_g posted:I'm in the UK and have been keeping an eye out for a new fine detail airbrush. Just ordered one of these and with international delivery it's still only £85! Top notch heads up, thank you. The air hose fitting on Badgers is much smaller than Iwatas so you'll want to make sure to order an adapter or a new hose as well.
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Mar 22, 2015 18:02
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SkunkDuster posted:The air hose fitting on Badgers is much smaller than Iwatas so you'll want to make sure to order an adapter or a new hose as well. There's QD couplings for the airbrush end of the hose. Curiously they're cross compatible between manufacturers. e: If anyone's on the fence waiting for that next paycheck, it seems this brush is always on sale: http://camelcamelcamel.com/Badger-Air-Brush-2020-2F-Gravity-Airbrush/product/B000BROVIO Always at least 50% off back to 2012. TasogareNoKagi fucked around with this message at 20:49 on Mar 22, 2015 |
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Mar 22, 2015 18:15
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SkunkDuster posted:The air hose fitting on Badgers is much smaller than Iwatas so you'll want to make sure to order an adapter or a new hose as well. Thanks, I got one ordered as well at the same time.
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Mar 22, 2015 20:15
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krushgroove posted:Can't say if they're refurbs but Amazon gets crazy deals on them because they buy 500-1000 at a time and blow them out as loss leaders.
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Mar 22, 2015 21:08
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Hopefully whenever I get around to wanting a detail airbrush, I can catch a smoking deal like this. On the boat front, I've done a bit on both of them. On the sloop, I added the molding to the bottom of the quarterdeck wall, and added hinges and handles to the doors.    It's amazing how rough and terrible the unfinished wood looks in macro shots. On the canoe, I've added the decks and completed the wales. First comes the decks at each end, which were kind of tricky because to get them bent they have to be soaked in water, and when they are soaked they have no lateral strength, but they actually spread the hull, so they need to be strong. I used a temporary wedge at each end to hold the hull in position while they dried to keep the hull from collapsing the decks. If I were to do it again I'd have reinforced the deck pieces with planking strips on the underside before placing them. Lesson learned!    Next come the inwales - these are cherry strips that run along the inside of the ribs at the top from deck to deck. These are fairly straight forward, just trim to length and glue/clamp in place.  The Gunwales were a lot trickier. They use the same cherry strips, which start out 1/8" x 1/16", but they have to be tapered over 3-1/2" at each end (and trimmed to length of course) to a mere 1/32" x 1/32", so they have to be tapered in both dimensions, and then, they have to be curved to match the hull shape at both ends. They only supply a single spare cherry strip (it gets used for other stuff, but in small lengths) and I managed to break one while sanding it. Luckily I managed to get the replacement made without breakage. I bend the strips edgewise to follow the hull by using 3 clamps, and a heat gun. Bend a little bit with the clamps, apply heat, and let cool. When the wood cools, it retains the shape it was in when heated.   Then they get glued and clamped in place. Once they are dry, the tops of the wales are sanded to be even with the top of the hull and ribs.        Other than the clamps, the tool list remains unchanged.
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Mar 22, 2015 22:10
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:If anyone is looking to get a high-quality airbrush for ultra-cheap, Amazon is having another amazing sale on the Badger Sotar 20/20. It's on for $97, that's $320 bucks off! Can I use regular thinned hobby paint with this, or does it require magic special paint? VV good to know, thanks. Nebakenezzer fucked around with this message at 00:48 on Mar 23, 2015 |
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Mar 23, 2015 00:13
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No, any paint will do. As long as you've got it at about milk-consistency, any decent airbrush should be able to shoot just about any paint.
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Mar 23, 2015 00:35
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question I just tried painting Tamiya semi clear gloss x-35 over my acrylic paint coats to seal it before I cover this tank with decals but it seems to be stripping the paint, did I somehow contaminate my bottle of gloss?
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Mar 23, 2015 01:38
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That canoe is looking gorgeous, nice one. I built a (full-size) strip-planked kayak out of western red cedar and maple a few years back, and it didn't look that neat! Getting the bow/sterns stems and the coaming on was enough of a pain full-size, so I can only imagine how hard it is on that scale. Will that canoe had stems and(or) a keel strip? Much else left to do?
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Mar 23, 2015 02:21
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Chillyrabbit posted:question I just tried painting Tamiya semi clear gloss x-35 over my acrylic paint coats to seal it before I cover this tank with decals but it seems to be stripping the paint, did I somehow contaminate my bottle of gloss? I'm guessing here, but some of Tamiya "acrylics" actually have a lacquer base, and it may be to hot for the base coat and is rewetting it. Were you airbrushing on the gloss, or brush painting it?
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Mar 23, 2015 03:20
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Sanguine posted:That canoe is looking gorgeous, nice one. Thanks. A full-size canoe would be awesome. In some ways it would be easier, and in some ways more difficult. I don't live anywhere near water or have a way to transport a canoe to water, so I won't be making a full size one anytime soon. Sanguine posted:Will that canoe had stems and(or) a keel strip? Much else left to do? It does get a false keel (a strip along the bottom). Other than that, it doesn't have a lot else left. Thwarts, a brace to mount one of the seat frames on. Two seats (canvas on cherry frame, cloth for these is included in the kit). Two paddles. Can't have a canoe without paddles! Other than that, the rest of the work is all in the finish, which I'm going to try to give a glassed appearance like a classic Chris-craft type wooden hull. We'll see how it goes. I just finished gluing the false keel on, so later tonight I'll give it another round of stain, then work on the finish, which will go slow because it needs a fair number of coats of resin, which has to be completely dry and sanded between coats.
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Mar 23, 2015 03:24
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:I'm guessing here, but some of Tamiya "acrylics" actually have a lacquer base, and it may be to hot for the base coat and is rewetting it. Were you airbrushing on the gloss, or brush painting it? brush painting
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Mar 23, 2015 04:12
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I had problems with Tamiya Olive Green just sort of rubbing off a tank I painted waaaay back even after being let sit for a couple of days. I ended up solving the problem by coating it with matte varnish first, then applying the Olive Green and varnishing again before detailing etc.
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Mar 23, 2015 04:21
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Chillyrabbit posted:brush painting That was probably it. Although it would've been as hot through an airbrush, the light touch of the spray would've rewetted, but not disturbed, the paint below. Brush painting with a lacquer is basically take a solvent and a scrub brush to the model, so any delicate acrylics below get messed up. If you're going to fix the base coat, seal it with some sprayed Dullcote afterwords, then a gloss coat after that dries to prepare the surface for decals. You don't even need to gloss the whole thing, just the areas to receive decals.
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Mar 23, 2015 04:56
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It's amazing what you can do with an old, cheap model kit, some patience and creativity  I was originally planning on just putting together the AT-AT as a quick build, but once I saw the little snowspeeder that came with it, I knew what needed to be done. This also gave me an excuse to further practice using homemade oil washes. I'm shocked at how well this all came together.Pre-painted and seeing if the wire would work on this  The final result    
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Mar 23, 2015 15:21
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Commissar Canuck posted:It's amazing what you can do with an old, cheap model kit, some patience and creativity I bought that kit when I was 8 or 9 and went to London on vacation! Too bad it's now lost somewhere, you did a great job with it.
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Mar 23, 2015 15:24
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Commissar Canuck posted:It's amazing what you can do with an old, cheap model kit, some patience and creativity This is really great. I'd like to be able to do some kits this well one day. I've got snowspeeder, speeder bike, and shuttle Tydirium kits waiting for me but I want to get better before I start on them.
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Mar 23, 2015 15:44
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Commissar Canuck posted:The final result Nice work, though I got distracted when I recognized your photo backdrop there. Where'd you get the lights?
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Mar 23, 2015 16:10
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Commissar Canuck posted:It's amazing what you can do with an old, cheap model kit, some patience and creativity That loving owns
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Mar 23, 2015 19:21
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I've been wanting to get into models for a while, and finally picked up a Tamiya PzKpfw II from Hobby Lobby today. Because I figured, who needs money or time, right? Now to comb through 107 pages and figure out how not to make this look like butt.
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Mar 23, 2015 21:35
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The 1970s one? I have that kit, it's a nice cheap way to get started in 1:35th. It's one of the few models where I was happy with how the vinyl tracks turned out.
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Mar 23, 2015 21:41
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COOL CORN posted:I've been wanting to get into models for a while, and finally picked up a Tamiya PzKpfw II from Hobby Lobby today. Bring some glue, a box cutter, and optimism. The rest is just gravy.
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Mar 23, 2015 22:53
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My wife was supposed to pick it up from Hobby Lobby for me since I was stuck at work. They didn't have it, but had the Sdkfz 251/1. I told her, "that would be great, go for it." She said, "it doesn't even come with the glue you need or any paints. Waste of money in my opinion." Oh... well... okay  guess I'd better go rogue.
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Mar 23, 2015 23:28
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COOL CORN posted:She said, "it doesn't even come with the glue you need or any paints. Waste of money in my opinion." Explain the hobby in excruciating detail. Make sure to watch several hours of YouTube videos on model-making with her. In bed.
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Mar 23, 2015 23:50
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Show her how the back and forth motion of dry-brushing works.
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Mar 24, 2015 00:03
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COOL CORN posted:I've been wanting to get into models for a while, and finally picked up a Tamiya PzKpfw II from Hobby Lobby today. Were you looking at Tamiya kit 35292? If so that was one of my first 1:35 scale tank models I did in 2010! (Can't believe that's half a decade ago now.) It's a good little kit. It was the first time I ever used Tamiya paints and I was dumb enough to apply them straight from the tub with a brush without any kind of thinning at all as if they were GW acrylics. It was also when I started trying pigments out for the first time. Fun times. Didn't come out too bad all in all. So get going and start this fantastic hobby, before you know it you'll be hooked.      
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Mar 24, 2015 00:16
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big_g posted:Tamiya paints and I was dumb enough to apply them straight from the tub with a brush without any kind of thinning at all as if they were GW acrylics.
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Mar 24, 2015 02:12
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That's the A/B/C one, he's probably looking at the cheaper and older E/F one. Nice tank though. Edit: here's a small thing, ICM Soviet Infantry 1940-1942  I think I didn't do a super good job on the eyes, but I'm pretty bad at faces all around. The guy in the middle didn't turn out that bad. Ensign Expendable fucked around with this message at 02:43 on Mar 24, 2015 |
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Mar 24, 2015 02:36
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That looks so drat rad. So I can still expect decent results without an airbrush? Ensign Expendable posted:That's the A/B/C one, he's probably looking at the cheaper and older E/F one. Nice tank though. It's the F/G actually, but yeah.
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Mar 24, 2015 13:53
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Yes, you can do fine without using an airbrush.
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Mar 24, 2015 13:59
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COOL CORN posted:My wife was supposed to pick it up from Hobby Lobby for me since I was stuck at work. They didn't have it, but had the Sdkfz 251/1. I told her, "that would be great, go for it." Ask her for one of those big train modeller aprons that will gather any pieces that you drop in a big pocket, and see how she reacts.
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Mar 24, 2015 15:08
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vroom vroom    
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Mar 24, 2015 17:08
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That is gorgeous - I have 3 bike models to build (RC211V, 2009 M1, 916) and really need to get one of them made. I've been sort of waiting to get a decent selection of metallics, but I just got got a set of all 12 Darkstar Miniatures metallics (meant for wargaming models, but they are supposed to work well out of an airbrush too) so I have no excuse now. Except the massive pile of wargaming models I also have.
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Mar 24, 2015 17:52
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