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Cakefool posted:We probably shouldn't push analogies so far, if tablesaws were used as often as cars (hours per day by millions of barely trained people) they'd be outlawed due to the average member of the public only having 2 thumbs left If that many people used table saws they would be made safer and dumbed down, just like cars. Until recently table saws changed little in 100 years.
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Mar 22, 2015 01:18
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Just finished up this "restoration". New drawers all around, reshaped profiles, stripped off something that probably gave me 30 different kinds of cancer and made me sterile. You couldn't see the wood underneath, but it wasn't paint. The show surfaces on this were composed of: pine, white oak, red oak, poplar and what I think might have been box elder. Explained the finish. The drawers I made have poplar fronts, sycamore sides and the bottom has a cedar back for sweet cedar scentation. It stank bad, like mouse poop and pee. Sealed it with three coats of shellac. Killed it. Album: http://imgur.com/a/Bmvzu/all Hightlights:        
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Mar 22, 2015 04:00
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Dramatic turnaround on that dresser. On a less contentious subject ... I bought a couple tools for my shop An iGaging digital caliper that I'm loving. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AQEZ2W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1  And an Accuremote digital inclinometer (same company as iGaging) that I'm not loving. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006JR8XBG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1  If you flip it 180 degrees the readings are inconsistent. Turn it 90 degrees, it should read 90 degrees but never does which tells me either the inclinometer is bad or the case isn't square (or both). Also if you use it on say a table saw blade, try it five times you'll get five different readings. If you use it on both sides of the blade, you get wildly different readings. The accuracy is also wrong, if you use this to set your blade to 90 degrees and test with an engineer's square, it's off by at least a full degree. So I'm sending it back and debating whether to order another of the same brand or try a Wixey. The Wixey has bad reviews for eating batteries and probably has the same guts as this thing. Not sure what to do. My gut feeling is it's luck of the draw either way. edit; I just read that cold temps affect accuracy and precision so I'll let it warm up in the house and try again tomorrow. wormil fucked around with this message at 05:12 on Mar 22, 2015 |
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Mar 22, 2015 04:58
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I haven't had good luck with the angle gauges at all. I want to find something like a vernier scale protractor, but I don't know if that exists. I'd pay pretty drat well for some way to accurately set up angles between 90 and 45. e: I guess what I'm looking for is a bevel protractor. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 05:38 on Mar 22, 2015 |
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Mar 22, 2015 05:35
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Hypnolobster posted:I haven't had good luck with the angle gauges at all. I want to find something like a vernier scale protractor, but I don't know if that exists. I'd pay pretty drat well for some way to accurately set up angles between 90 and 45. Yeah, I don't think normal ones can be used on a table saw. I have one of those Johnson angle things with a big dial, it's hard to read below 1 or 2 degrees and the pointer takes forever to stop moving. Years ago Beall made a gravity inclinometer for tablesaws, they are impossible to find now. edit; I'm going to send the digital back and buy this: http://www.gauge-it.com/product_tablesaw.htm wormil fucked around with this message at 07:50 on Mar 22, 2015 |
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Mar 22, 2015 07:23
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I'm in the process of putting together my workshop, which means buying a lot of the basics so I don't have to keep borrowing (stealing in the night) my Dad's tools. I'm going to be doing woodworking with mostly hand tools -- the only power tool I plan on using is maybe a circular saw and drill, but most of my projects will be small scale stuff for now. What's some stuff you guys wish you had starting out? Here's my current shopping list, everything can be substituted for something better or less pricy if you think so.
I'm obviously missing clamps, but I want to see what I end up needing before I buy them. Anyway, any feedback is greatly appreciated.
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Mar 22, 2015 16:02
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A good workbench with a vise. Maybe this is implicit in your list below, but if you can't hold your workpiece properly, then working on it will be a hell of a lot harder.
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Mar 22, 2015 16:18
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Oh, I forgot to mention I'm building a workbench from scratch. This I'm doing at my Dad's house since he actually has all the tools on hand -- I'll buy all of this when I'm done building that. I was originally going to get the harbor freight bench but when I saw it in person it just seemed too flimsy. I know for a little more money I could build something much sturdier. I just wish I had $2200 to burn, I'd just go buy one of those Sjobergs. 
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Mar 22, 2015 16:25
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Made a box. Top is cherry. Bottom is walnut. Inlay is maple. Inlay on the inlay is crushed malachite.  
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Mar 22, 2015 21:50
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e: ^ that's gorgeous. Inlay really blows my mind. Not really woodworking exactly, but it's pretty cool. Spent some time at work over the winter skidding logs out of the woods.  The big stacks are black locust and osage, mostly 8-16" dia and 12' long. Everything else is a mix of white oak/red oak, ash and black walnut in various lengths. The really long ones are destined to be bridge stringers.  The big bastard in the back is about 34" dia. The walnut is about 25"  We get a lot more milling done in the shoulder seasons, but we had a little time on the bandsaw this winter and got a pretty big stock of ash and white oak cut. Everything up top is walnut or cherry. And just to be woodworking related, I made a little small parts sled to go along with my gigantic sled. 
Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 00:46 on Mar 23, 2015 |
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Mar 23, 2015 00:17
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Tad late to the table saw safety posts, but anyways. I need to get a riving knife for my new saw(bought it used) and really have put it off far too long. I'm pretty careful as is (use a microjig and sled whenever possible), but really shouldn't be a good excuse not to have one. Any recommendations for one? I have a Rigid r4511 saw if that matters. How are the MicroJig splitters comparatively? The saw did come with the blade guard, like the one below. Does anyone here actually use these? They seem like a major hassle and in the way for anything but cutting large sheets. I use a table saw sled for 95% of my cuts and removing it and putting it back on seems like way too much work. Maybe I should be doing it though... 
keep it down up there! fucked around with this message at 15:31 on Mar 23, 2015 |
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Mar 23, 2015 15:26
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I don't use the stock one that came with my saw, but I have plans to build one at some point that integrates dust collection. It's on the list™ Having a riving knife is really nice though, I'd certainly recommend getting one (or splitter) if yours supports it.
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Mar 23, 2015 15:47
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ChaoticSeven posted:Made a box. Top is cherry. Bottom is walnut. Inlay is maple. Inlay on the inlay is crushed malachite. That's a thing of beauty. How did you suspend the malachite?
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Mar 23, 2015 16:25
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ChaoticSeven posted:Made a box. Top is cherry. Bottom is walnut. Inlay is maple. Inlay on the inlay is crushed malachite. Fantastic work. The inlay looks seamless. The pebbled material inside fits the look perfectly.
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Mar 23, 2015 17:11
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My dad was kind enough to refinish a rocking chair that sat on the front porch of the house I grew up in. The only issue is that he put a heavy layer of something on top that stinks to high heaven. What can I do to cut down on this smell?
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Mar 23, 2015 17:19
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Wanted to share. This is the very first thing I've built, and was able to make it over the weekend:  It is a hobby table I'm going to use for boardgames, Warhammer painting, and X-wing miniatures. It came out extremely solid and sturdy, and I'm going to sand/stain and try to come up with a design for the center. Was debating making a D20 stencil and using a dark stain to put it in the center. Original coat stain is going to be very light colored. Any thoughts/advice on doing a design in the center?
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Mar 23, 2015 17:24
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LLJKSiLk posted:Wanted to share. This is the very first thing I've built, and was able to make it over the weekend: Looks nice! My one concern is that you may want to put something around the edge of the plywood. Plywood edges aren't really pleasant, plus they can get damaged somewhat easily. Dunno what I'd advise putting on there though. For a decal in the center, you might consider buying a sheet of veneer and cutting the design out of that with an X-acto knife. A stain would probably also work, though I'd be a bit worried about the stain bleeding outside the stencilled area. Maybe that's not an issue; I've never really paid attention to how stain moves through wood. The veneer approach would allow you to do more than 2 colors if you so desired, by just using multiple bits of veneer and staining them before they get glued into place. Congrats on finishing your first project!
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Mar 23, 2015 17:36
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Looks nice! My one concern is that you may want to put something around the edge of the plywood. Plywood edges aren't really pleasant, plus they can get damaged somewhat easily. Dunno what I'd advise putting on there though. I agree on that point. Someone will end up cutting themselves on it sooner or later. If you're going to be doing work on it and resting your arms on the edge, it'll be rather uncomfortable. You should be able to get 1/2"x1" pine at home depot or wherever and glue/nail that around the edges, that'll only cost you a few bucks. Depending on what tools you have available you could cut to fit, but leaving some overhang isn't the end of the world. Sand / chamfer the edges to soften it up and it'll be good to go.
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Mar 23, 2015 17:44
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You could also get some quarter-round, that'd be nice and smooth against the arm.
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Mar 23, 2015 17:59
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Oh, andSpazz posted:My dad was kind enough to refinish a rocking chair that sat on the front porch of the house I grew up in. The only issue is that he put a heavy layer of something on top that stinks to high heaven. What can I do to cut down on this smell? It takes awhile for most finishes to really finish curing and outgassing all those volatile chemicals. Just leave it in a well-ventilated space (or outdoors) for a week or so and it shouldn't smell so bad any more.
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Mar 23, 2015 18:12
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FISHMANPET posted:You could also get some quarter-round, that'd be nice and smooth against the arm. Bah, Considering I bought some last weekend you'd think I'd have thought of that. Nice and easy solution.
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Mar 23, 2015 18:14
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Looks good to me. I'm guessing the wood strips on top are for the edges? The problem with using stain and a stencil is it will soak into the wood and you'll have fuzzy, blotchy, edges all around. I would put a coat of clear finish over the table, then stencil + paint, then another clear coat or two over that. Another option is a printed vinyl decal, goes on much the same way -- finish, decal, finish.
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Mar 23, 2015 18:18
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wormil posted:Looks good to me. I'm guessing the wood strips on top are for the edges? Thanks. Yeah, the strips on the top are moulding or whatever I was going to put on the edges so that people don't hurt themselves.  Just going to Gorilla glue those tonight. I didn't have time to get all the stickers off so that I could do it before coming into the office tomorrow. I'll give some thought on the design thing. Right now I've got some very light wood stain color, but the clear coat + stencil/paint idea might work better.
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Mar 23, 2015 18:23
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LLJKSiLk posted:
I would probably just paint it a dark color. When you've got little modeling bits all spread out, you want to be able to see them easily. And you're gonna end up spilling paint at some point.
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Mar 23, 2015 19:50
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wormil posted:Looks good to me. I'm guessing the wood strips on top are for the edges? Conditioner, an x-acto, temporary adhesive on the stencil, and gel stain will work on pine. Barely.
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Mar 24, 2015 00:05
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Trabant posted:That's a thing of beauty. How did you suspend the malachite? Thanks. In this case it was CA glue. On bigger stuff I use West System epoxy. They have a special slow set/water clear set of resin and hardener that can accommodate wood movement in larger inlays and panels. wormil posted:Fantastic work. The inlay looks seamless. The pebbled material inside fits the look perfectly. Thanks man.
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Mar 24, 2015 03:47
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I can also recommend DSM Synolite polyester resin, very clear and it can be worked and polished easily. http://www.mbfg.co.uk/polyester-casting-resin/dsm-casting-resin.html
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Mar 24, 2015 09:59
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Another box joint jig plan added to my list to procrastinate over. This is for single blades and is quite simple. http://www.thewoodfather.com/projects/single-blade-box-joint-jig-plans/ edit; no more procrastination, I'm building it now wormil fucked around with this message at 20:49 on Mar 25, 2015 |
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Mar 25, 2015 05:01
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I'm trying to get into woodworking - I took shop classes in middle school and haven't really done anything since. I bought The Joint Book and Woodworking Basics from recommendations in the OP, and I have my first project in mind (I want to make stretcher bars for a canvas I have - it's great cause the joints don't need to support much weight and they'll be hidden by the canvas when I gently caress up). Should I take a class in my area? My current plan is to get some cheap pine from Home Depot along with a basic set of hand tools and just practice making various joints until I don't suck too much, then get a cabinet making book and some actually decent hardwoods. Thinking of stealing the list of tools a goon posted on the last page, but are there any good recommendations for babbies first woodworking set?
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Mar 25, 2015 19:49
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Ranma posted:I'm trying to get into woodworking - I took shop classes in middle school and haven't really done anything since. I bought The Joint Book and Woodworking Basics from recommendations in the OP, and I have my first project in mind (I want to make stretcher bars for a canvas I have - it's great cause the joints don't need to support much weight and they'll be hidden by the canvas when I gently caress up). I built my table after some googling and watching Youtube videos of how people approached projects/simplified tool use.
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Mar 25, 2015 22:09
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I'm also in the case of getting into wood working. I've been collecting tools for a bit now. Got a decent table saw, a router, etc. What I'm really confused about is wood. Right now I mostly just have some scrap pine/framing lumber that I've been messing with and I just don't really know what's "Good" to use. Pine seems ok but I just don't know much about the pro's and cons of it. I'd like to build up my collection a bit and have some nicer things to work with. Is Cedar a good starting point? What about hard woods? Oak? Is there some sort of "Idiots guide to buying wood" out there?
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Mar 25, 2015 22:25
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MickRaider posted:What I'm really confused about is wood. Right now I mostly just have some scrap pine/framing lumber that I've been messing with and I just don't really know what's "Good" to use. Pine seems ok but I just don't know much about the pro's and cons of it. I'd like to build up my collection a bit and have some nicer things to work with. If you have access to it and it doesn't cost too much, buy a small piece of whatever wood you're looking at and see what it's like to work with. Cedar is aromatic, but tends to splinter and isn't all that strong. Still, at least around here it's pretty cheap so you can make chests out of 6/4 cedar if you want and they'll hold up fine. Oak is plenty strong, less likely to splinter than pine/cedar but still can given appropriate incentives. Has a bit of a sour smell to it when you're cutting it. Maple is ungodly strong and hard, and is hell on tools (i.e. tends to make blades go dull). But things made out of maple will last forever. Walnut isn't as hard as maple but is still pretty hard. Purpleheart is also quite hard and has a neat color contrast to most other woods (being, well, purple). It's also really dense, heavy wood. If you want a go-to "upgrade" from pine, check out poplar. It's still soft and it has a nasty greenish tint to it (so stain or paint are the order of the day) but it has a nice clear grain and is easy to work. It's also generally not too expensive.
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Mar 25, 2015 22:31
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Ranma posted:Should I take a class in my area? Classes are always good. You can learn on your own but a good instructor will answer questions you didn't know to ask. Plus it puts you in touch with other woodworkers in your area. MickRaider posted:What I'm really confused about is wood. Right now I mostly just have some scrap pine/framing lumber that I've been messing with and I just don't really know what's "Good" to use. Don't over think or worry too much about it. The main differences between hard and softwoods are: Hardwood is kiln dried to a lower moisture content and more stable. Construction lumber is not very dry when you buy it and is prone to warp unless you allow it to air dry for awhile (the longer the better). Once dry, softwood is stable. Softwoods can be more difficult to work with hand tools because the grain alternates between hard (dark) and soft (light). Don't worry about the "soft" in soft wood, it's only useful in the general sense. Soft and hard woods overlap in actual hardness, although hardwoods can be very hard, harder than brass. Some of the finest furniture ever built is made from mahogany which is softer than some species of pine. So in general terms, almost any hardwood will be easier to work with than softwood because it will 'behave' better during after you cut it. But lots of people have built projects from pine and other softwoods both currently and historically. Don't worry too much about hardness, wood has many qualities that make a certain species better or worse for particular project: oak is tough and weather resistant but splits easily, elm makes great wheels, mulberry is good for hockey sticks and some musical instruments, etc. My last tip is staining one wood to look like another is usually more effort than it's worth.
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Mar 25, 2015 23:25
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I finished the box joint jig this evening and tried it with some hasty spacers. First test I forgot to put a spacer between the wood and tablesaw and the joints were all wonky. Second test they were all perfect except for one finger which was too wide. I think the problem was my spacers not being a consistent thickness, it was just a random off-cut sawed to short bits. Tomorrow or this weekend I will make better spacers.
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Mar 27, 2015 03:02
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I wasn't happy with the results of my jig either, but the problem is the blade kerf isn't truly 3mm wide, or the resultant cut isn't. The blade has some wobble to it, this throws off all my 1.5mm pitch to 3mm kerf math and the jig doesn't easily allow you to change this. I know the author had a 1/4" dado blade he used with this, I suppose that blade is made to a much higher accuracy. I also felt the stocks it handles are too small, as I mentioned earlier, I want to assemble frames for furniture and stuff with box and finger joints. So what I've done is I bought Wandels box joint jig plans, the gears and their ratios allows me to adjust and get that perfect cut. No time to look at it now though, one of the kids is in the hospital with RSV and life is a general stressful mess.
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Mar 27, 2015 05:39
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I made that one too and had the same problem. Some careful math and a thickness planer might make it easier to dial in. e: I need to find somebody with a metal lathe to make a perfect pin. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 13:49 on Mar 27, 2015 |
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Mar 27, 2015 05:58
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There is no math or cranking with this jig. A pin the same size as your blade kerf follows the spacers 1:1 ratio. Finding something the same as my saw kerf was the longest part of building this. Turned out to be a screw which is handy as it holds itself in place. I cut off the head and the shank is 3.17mm, the kerf is 3.19. The fingers were snug but there is room for glue, well except for the one oddball. I'll make new spacers tomorrow and get them right, then I can really test this thing.
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Mar 27, 2015 07:19
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A neighbour of my in-laws died and had no heirs and so my jackdaw mother-in-law now has a garage full of 1940s- late 1960s Danish furniture. It's apparently pretty much all in poo poo condition from being tossed around too much (drawers banged up, shelves and handles missing, glass in doors broken), but - there's quite a substantial amount of true Brazilian rosewood there, real D. Nigra. Am I a bad person for thinking about taking it all apart and storing the wood for future projects? We're not talking about mid century Danish design classics, but some of it might be okay to fix up. e: I've actually been thinking, considering the ridiculous hardwood prices here, about picking up old pianos and pianettes that people are giving away and scrapping them for wood. A lot of the quality old ones are a combination of mahogany, hard maple and rosewood, or with quality spruce for the soundboard. And if the black keys are solid ebony, there's material for some beautiful pegs or splines. Something to ponder. And you'd get to take apart a piano. Dane fucked around with this message at 15:02 on Mar 27, 2015 |
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Mar 27, 2015 14:51
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I see nothing at all wrong with that, and good on you for not just letting the furniture continue to rot.
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Mar 27, 2015 14:58
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Better than burning it. Careful taking pianos apart though, I'd imagine the tension in the wires could hurt if taken apart wrong.
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Mar 27, 2015 15:25
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