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Senior Funkenstien posted:Looking at the amazon page I see they have a long pair of locking pliers too. Look like they could be really usefull. Tools really need more product images like this: 
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Mar 17, 2015 12:00
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Wasabi the J posted:Tools really need more product images like this: yeah how else are you supposed to check that pesky trans fluid. Those double bending pliers are a life saver. I have used them before for dropped nuts when replacing a window motor. I had my set broken by a tech at my old dealership. I just bought an inline brake flare tool from matco. HORRY SHEET flairing brake lines is amazing now and such an easy job.
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Mar 17, 2015 14:41
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Any opinions on the cheaper torque multipliers intended only to aid in removing things? Like Cheater Wrench. Was going to pick one up for my father to use as he often has to deal with bolts and nuts on farm equipment that has been sitting outside for decades, without the ability to bring it into his shop to bring the impact gun to bear.
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Mar 17, 2015 16:04
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Shifty Pony posted:Any opinions on the cheaper torque multipliers intended only to aid in removing things? Like Cheater Wrench. I've always used a breaker bar and a 4-6 foot piece of pipe.
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Mar 17, 2015 16:36
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That works great until you get to equipment where you can't swing four feet of pipe and would need a second person to hold the wrench and extension anyway. I've wanted one of those torque multipliers for my dad but I've never actually seen one used.
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Mar 17, 2015 17:39
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Yeah sometimes you only have enough movement range to take up the slack in the breaker and pipe combination. I think the genius of the multiplier is that in a case where you can't use a cheater because poo poo is in the way you could use those same obstructions to secure the reaction arm.
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Mar 17, 2015 17:57
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Shifty Pony posted:Any opinions on the cheaper torque multipliers intended only to aid in removing things? Like Cheater Wrench. They work both ways. You can also use them to tighten to torque spec, they give you a percentage of drag to account for to make it accurate.
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Mar 17, 2015 20:02
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kastein posted:As cakefool said this is a bad idea. Generally the front main seal rides on the outer diameter of the crank pulley/harmonic balancer, what that means is that if you put antiseize in there, it will end up in your sump when the oil starts splashing on whatever gets squeezed out toward the inside of the motor. Yes, I'm referring to a GM LS1. Since this is the first time I've done a balancer on one of these, I broke down and decided to invest in an installer kit in addition to the 3-jaw puller I just got. I've seen the anti-seize method done on older small blocks that use a key-way, and after seeing that this is a press-fit type balancer without one, I'm glad I'm deciding against it. Thank you.
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Mar 18, 2015 08:44
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Senior Funkenstien posted:Looking at the amazon page I see they have a long pair of locking pliers too. Look like they could be really usefull. I bought a pair of those a while back expecting them to be a Good Tool, they sure look useful. Fast-forward a year and they haven't been used a single time. Something else is always the better tool for the job, and it's not like I own a bunch of specialty tools. v  vHey thread, I need a recommendation: I need a lot of vacuum line in various sizes for multiple projects, and some of it needs to be fuel-resistant (ie emissions lines, not actual fuel lines). What's the best source for this in bulk? Brick-and-mortar is the easy option but probably also the most expensive one.
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Mar 18, 2015 18:10
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Splizwarf posted:Hey thread, I need a recommendation: I need a lot of vacuum line in various sizes for multiple projects, and some of it needs to be fuel-resistant (ie emissions lines, not actual fuel lines). What's the best source for this in bulk? Brick-and-mortar is the easy option but probably also the most expensive one. Silicone vacuum line, i buy most of mine from eBay. Usually a large selection of sizes and colours, almost always cheap. I haven't found anywhere better (here in England at least) to buy it from.
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Mar 18, 2015 18:13
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Spotted on a downtown Chicago bridge: I tugged on it a few times. It's on there pretty good.
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Mar 19, 2015 18:51
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Safety Dance posted:Spotted on a downtown Chicago bridge: "Eddy you done yet? Its almost 5!" "holdon my socket is stu.. eh fuckit"
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Mar 19, 2015 20:00
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I currently have a small clarke compressor (its a 2HP 35litre job) which has served me well for the last 7 or 8 years. I have been given a blast cabinet (one of these) and I want a bigger compressor so that I can run it and because mine just doesn't have enough capacity for most of what i want to do with it (spraying large car panels is a mission with only 35L). I don't really want to spend more than £300 if i can manage that. Has anybody ever used a 'burisch' compressor? are they any good. This 3HP/90L/14CFM model seems quite reasonably priced and should run the blast cabinet (which wants 10CFM) Has anybody seen anything else that seems resonably priced?
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Mar 21, 2015 20:55
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Tomarse posted:I currently have a small clarke compressor (its a 2HP 35litre job) which has served me well for the last 7 or 8 years. For another £5 i'd get the Sealey direct-drive. 10L larger tank, but slightly less air output (12.6CFM). No belt drive, less to go wrong. Had good experiences with Sealey compressors, my old shop we have a 200L one that we got with the shop, a few years old and in 4 years of hard use it was nothing but reliable. Never needed anything, except one small top-up of oil. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-To...=item20ec3eeee6 Bear in mind that a blast cabinet will draw a lot of air.
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Mar 21, 2015 21:11
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Mooseykins posted:For another £5 i'd get the Sealey direct-drive. 10L larger tank, but slightly less air output (12.6CFM). No belt drive, less to go wrong. Had good experiences with Sealey compressors, my old shop we have a 200L one that we got with the shop, a few years old and in 4 years of hard use it was nothing but reliable. Never needed anything, except one small top-up of oil. Cheers. I have been looking at Sealeys but hadn't seen that particular model. I really wanted a vertical tank model (like they all seem to be in the US!) but couldn't find one powerful enough. I have had/got other Sealey stuff which seems pretty good so would definitely trust them more than a make I haven't heard of! I'm not expecting it to run the cabinet for long periods but it should definitely be usable from 100L tank on a 12.6CFM compressor if I take my time shouldn't it?
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Mar 21, 2015 22:49
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Tomarse posted:I really wanted a vertical tank model (like they all seem to be in the US!) but couldn't find one powerful enough. Almost all small compressors (sub 12 gallons) are horizontals in the US. It's not until you get into larger ones that you'll see vertical tanks.
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Mar 22, 2015 02:48
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Tomarse posted:Cheers. I have been looking at Sealeys but hadn't seen that particular model. I really wanted a vertical tank model (like they all seem to be in the US!) but couldn't find one powerful enough. Not sure how long you can run the cabinet on a single tank charge, it may have a data plate showing air consumption. I can empty our shop's 200/250L compressor in a matter of seconds with my industrial die grinder, so i don't think a 90L tank will last you very long at all. You can get auxilliary tanks though, but you'll spend a long time with the compressor running to charge them. For high-demand things like blast cabinets you ideally need a multi-pump compressor or a big petrol-driven one with a 100% duty cycle. There are some small verticals out there, but usually they're much less powerful, as they use smaller motors and compressors so they're not larger than the tank's footprint: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SIP-06245...=item3aa4f435a4 Sealey and Draper also offer small verticals, but they're like 1.5hp and 50-90-litres. Also worth looking at used ABAC compressors: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Air-Compr...=item27fb35f513 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Abac-150hp3-air-compressor-/251886756720?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3aa59ee370 They're good compressors, and big bastard ones can be had cheap if used. Mooseykins fucked around with this message at 14:25 on Mar 22, 2015 |
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Mar 22, 2015 14:22
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I'm trying to expand my tool storage by picking up a middle chest for my old craftsman top box/rolling bottom, but I ran into a bit of a snag, specifically one where they don't make a 26" wide x 18" deep middle chest anymore. Closest thing craftsman has is 16" deep, which just won't cut it since the top box is bigger. I don't see any used ones on craigslist/eBay at the moment... Is there anywhere else I should look, or someone else that makes a middle chest that'd fit? Edit: Talked to three different customer service reps and one of them found a middle chest that fit which I could order off the website Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 19:49 on Mar 25, 2015 |
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Mar 22, 2015 16:06
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Going to pick up the HF 4 drawer rolling tool cart tonight with a coupon. Going to put a lot of tools in it in my never ending quest to de-clutter my life. The top should be a good work surface as well.
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Mar 23, 2015 21:00
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If you intend to use it as a work surface consider riveting on a sheet of something consumable (wood/plastic/metal) to be the surface, partly to prevent tearing it up and partly to prevent the lid from getting dished in. The cover should ideally extend further than the lid edges by a half inch or so.
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Mar 23, 2015 23:40
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Any idea how I would go about stacking two of these tool boxes? They're not meant to be, I'm 99% sure the bottom of the top one won't fit into the recess on the top of the bottom one.   
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Mar 24, 2015 13:48
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bolind posted:Any idea how I would go about stacking two of these tool boxes? They're not meant to be, I'm 99% sure the bottom of the top one won't fit into the recess on the top of the bottom one. Would be grateful for the same solution, as I'm just about to do the same thing with an extra Clarke step-up box I'm waiting for from eBay. I'm hoping to just cut a piece of thin wood, sprayed black so it looks like it's supposed to be there, just to rise it up enough for the rubber feet on the underside to clear the lower box rim. That's the plan, anyway.
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Mar 24, 2015 16:12
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A quick shot with a punch in each corner should flare the top enough for them to slide together. Might need a good strong knock on the top box to seat them. If that doesn't work, get a bigger hammer and try again.
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Mar 24, 2015 16:22
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Powershift posted:get a bigger hammer and try again. Words to live by.
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Mar 24, 2015 17:41
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Neat mod: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zgjF8YKQhK4 I need something to hold my ratchets/extensions without them rolling around, if anyone has any suggestions.
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Mar 24, 2015 23:08
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Make a shadow tray out of pink or blue insulating foam. YouTube should have instructions.
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Mar 24, 2015 23:20
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If it's less than a dozen or so ratchets, etc. you might look at a tool roll. I have one each for wrenches (metric, SAE), pliers, etc. Could definitely do one just for ratchets. Harbor Freight's roll isn't bad: http://www.harborfreight.com/14-pocket-tool-roll-93828.html I wish they came in different colors so I could more quickly identify them.
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Mar 25, 2015 00:00
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I'm hoping for something like this, but spaced wider apart for the ratchets (well, torque wrenches, technically) to keep them from rolling. http://www.amazon.com/ERNST-WRENCH-Magnetic-bottom-Organizer/dp/B0060LUM8I I have a vision in my head for what I want. It'd be a great thing for a 3D printer to spit out, but I don't know anyone with one.
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Mar 25, 2015 00:10
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Uthor posted:Neat mod:  Totally going to do this to free up my pliers drawer.
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Mar 25, 2015 00:25
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Uthor posted:I have a vision in my head for what I want. It'd be a great thing for a 3D printer to spit out, but I don't know anyone with one. See if you have a local Makerspace/Hackerspace. Turned out there's one in my local library, who knew? 3-D printers are the Makerspace equivalent of a gearhead's first good impact gun: usually the first big and somewhat unnecessary fancy purchase.  There's usually at least a couple if the club's been active for more than a couple months.
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Mar 25, 2015 00:29
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Turns out there is one in town. Surprise! I may check that out.
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Mar 25, 2015 00:33
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What's the best tool for cutting ~1/8" thick molded plastic fins all the way to a perpendicular edge? Inside my car's armrest is a cassette tape organizer, and I just want to take out the divider things to make it a simple box with more available space. The plastic seems like it might be too thick for just something like a kitchen knife, but since it's recessed into the armrest and only the width of a tape I doubt a dremel would work well. Any suggestions, or should I just labor over it with a knife for a while?
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Mar 25, 2015 01:17
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Uthor posted:Turns out there is one in town. Surprise! I may check that out. This isn't as well-known but many public libraries are making 3D printers available at cost for the user (for the filament) as well.
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Mar 25, 2015 02:27
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Sentient Data posted:What's the best tool for cutting ~1/8" thick molded plastic fins all the way to a perpendicular edge? Inside my car's armrest is a cassette tape organizer, and I just want to take out the divider things to make it a simple box with more available space. The plastic seems like it might be too thick for just something like a kitchen knife, but since it's recessed into the armrest and only the width of a tape I doubt a dremel would work well. Any suggestions, or should I just labor over it with a knife for a while? Maybe a hot knife? *Take the box out of the car first
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Mar 25, 2015 02:41
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Sentient Data posted:What's the best tool for cutting ~1/8" thick molded plastic fins all the way to a perpendicular edge? Inside my car's armrest is a cassette tape organizer, and I just want to take out the divider things to make it a simple box with more available space. The plastic seems like it might be too thick for just something like a kitchen knife, but since it's recessed into the armrest and only the width of a tape I doubt a dremel would work well. Any suggestions, or should I just labor over it with a knife for a while? Hacksaw blade half-wrapped with electrical tape. Tedious as all hell, but it oughta work.
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Mar 25, 2015 03:45
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Kilersquirrel posted:This isn't as well-known but many public libraries are making 3D printers available at cost for the user (for the filament) as well. I'll check that out, but seeing how terrible their website and inter library loan site are, I'm not holding my breath for them having something that technical and geeky.
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Mar 25, 2015 04:07
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Uthor posted:Neat mod: I think I might do this and consolidate 2.5 drawers of pliers into one. I think if you're using the vise to bend it then you don't really need to screw the 2x4s together, though.
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Mar 25, 2015 04:48
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Kilersquirrel posted:This isn't as well-known but many public libraries are making 3D printers available at cost for the user (for the filament) as well. It's so successful here that Tekventure (the maker lab company) is opening a huge maker lab outside of the library. It's neat!
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Mar 25, 2015 05:49
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VolumeOverTalent posted:Would be grateful for the same solution, as I'm just about to do the same thing with an extra Clarke step-up box I'm waiting for from eBay. Hmm, how about some rubber/plastic/something feet, bolted to the underside of the top box, and recessed from the edge just right to make the whole thing slot in to the bottom box? Requires drilling holes in one box though.
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Mar 25, 2015 09:04
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Sentient Data posted:What's the best tool for cutting ~1/8" thick molded plastic fins all the way to a perpendicular edge? Inside my car's armrest is a cassette tape organizer, and I just want to take out the divider things to make it a simple box with more available space. The plastic seems like it might be too thick for just something like a kitchen knife, but since it's recessed into the armrest and only the width of a tape I doubt a dremel would work well. Any suggestions, or should I just labor over it with a knife for a while? Oscillating multi tool?
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Mar 25, 2015 11:29
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