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Wired in and ran the plug for heated gear.
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Mar 21, 2015 19:29
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Finished with the plugs and wires. Put on the headlight bracket for the sport fender. Put oil in it. Rode it around town. The new muffler I put on last week is gently caress off gently caress off loud. Runs good too.
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Mar 22, 2015 01:07
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Hey folks, quick question, especially for anyone with experiences with Triumph triples: The manual says that to change the headlight bulbs, you should disconnect the battery first. Is this seriously necessary or are they being super super cautious about something? Seems pretty over the top to me. Also has anyone put brighter bulbs in their current-style triple? Is the only thing you need to worry about getting bulbs safe for polycarbonate lenses?
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Mar 22, 2015 04:18
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They are being super-cautious so you don't somehow contrive to hurt yourself/damage the bike and sue. Why do you feel you need brighter bulbs, just out of curiosity? Have you checked your light is adjusted properly with your weight on the bike? Or are the high beams ratshit too?
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Mar 22, 2015 05:19
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Slavvy posted:They are being super-cautious so you don't somehow contrive to hurt yourself/damage the bike and sue. Cool, I figured as much. The standard bulbs are the usual thick filament motorcycle bulbs, which I find have pretty lovely output compared to the output car bulbs (at the expense of shorter service life of course, but with two lights with separate high beam filaments there is redundancy so I'm not too worried about that). I've thought they could be better since the bike was brand new and they look well-aimed to me. The high beams are fine I think but I don't want to have to ride around with them on all the time. On my previous bike I put a Narva +50 bulb in and the output was much better than the standard heavy duty bulb. I have a spare bulb to switch into one light to see what the difference actually is, I just wanted to check on the battery thing before I swapped it.
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Mar 22, 2015 06:13
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Here4DaGangBang posted:Cool, I figured as much. I'm considering a Triple - what year is yours? I frickin' HATE the Ninjer's headlight(s). Just dim, lots of dark spots/irregularities, etc. I'm hoping maybe the Striple will be better. On the other hand, there're some good LED options. There's a company that makes an LED with its own fan that's watertight and should last a very long time. Should be pretty bright, too. Cost about $60.
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Mar 22, 2015 06:29
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Lynza posted:I'm considering a Triple - what year is yours? I frickin' HATE the Ninjer's headlight(s). Just dim, lots of dark spots/irregularities, etc. I'm hoping maybe the Striple will be better. Mine's a 2014. Don't get me wrong, I don't think the headlights terrible or anything (though all of my night riding has been in suburbia with street lights). It's just that brighter is better as far as I'm concerned (as long as you're not a HID-in-reflector-housing douchebag), and the heavy duty bulbs that bikes with reflectors seem to come with are quite yellow and not that bright. LED bulbs need projectors, same as HIDs if you don't want to blind oncoming drivers as far as I know. Got a link to the ones you're talking about?
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Mar 22, 2015 07:08
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Get Osram Nightbreakers (and hat tip again to whoever it was on CA who suggested them to me) - they put out a lot more light and are much closer to pure white than stock bulbs without having to mess about with LEDs.
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Mar 22, 2015 07:44
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Here4DaGangBang posted:Mine's a 2014. Don't get me wrong, I don't think the headlights terrible or anything (though all of my night riding has been in suburbia with street lights). It's just that brighter is better as far as I'm concerned (as long as you're not a HID-in-reflector-housing douchebag), and the heavy duty bulbs that bikes with reflectors seem to come with are quite yellow and not that bright. This is one kind. I think they have a pretty reasonable selection of sizes/bulbs. http://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/3800-Lumen-H4-LED-Headlight-bulb-_p_83.html
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Mar 22, 2015 08:11
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Sold my old busted Buell for $2000 cash money. First guy to look at it took it away. Guy's first word after riding it: "Wow"
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Mar 22, 2015 21:02
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clutchpuck posted:Guy's first word after riding it: "Wow" Pretty sure this is everyone's reaction after riding a buell. Didn't you want like 3k?
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Mar 22, 2015 22:19
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That's what I say every time I ride it. $2k was lowest I'd take, and first guy offered it. Done, gone, more space in the garage. Next up fix the DT and sell it. Needs carb and oil pump rebuilds. This is dangerous territory because I know once it's going I'm going to want to keep it. But, garage space.
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Mar 22, 2015 22:57
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I imagine there would also be quite an attraction to having a reliable back-up vehicle for when the buell breaks down.
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Mar 23, 2015 00:01
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I replaced my DRZ's old skateboard wheel axle sliders with some new dryrot-free ones, gave it a bath, some oil, and a bit of chain lube. FZ6 is still broken as poo poo, so I replaced the battery (didn't do poo poo). I noticed one of my exhaust headers was relatively cold, so I took the plug out and did a spark check on it. It sparked fine. Right on my loving hand. loving bikes. Gotta wait until my carb/throttlebody sync thing comes in and see if that fixes it.
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Mar 23, 2015 01:57
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Relatively cold means no fuel or no compression - if you have spark, check the wiring harness and the connectors to the fuel rails. Might also be a clogged injector.
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Mar 23, 2015 03:05
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Slavvy posted:I imagine there would also be quite an attraction to having a reliable back-up vehicle for when the buell breaks down. As a '70s air-cooled 2-stroke enduro, the DT is the opposite of reliable. Content: installed the EBR ECM into the Buell. It is marvelous. Smoother low RPM take off, better sound. The best part though is the updated fan control logic. It only runs above 10mph if it's cool enough and when I park the bike it just turns off and doesn't run for 5 minutes. Also, way less heat off the right side. For a plug and play doodad, it works, I like it. Took it for a 100 mile spin this afternoon in the rain. Wow.
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Mar 23, 2015 03:06
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clutchpuck posted:As a '70s air-cooled 2-stroke enduro, the DT is the opposite of reliable. That was my point.
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Mar 23, 2015 03:18
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Lynza posted:This is one kind. I think they have a pretty reasonable selection of sizes/bulbs. I'd love to see some install pics on reflector-housed bikes, if these have a proper beam spread then I'd be very interested. Something tells me it's too good to be true, though.
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Mar 23, 2015 11:44
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Replaced rear brake pads. Had a hell of a time getting the inside pad shoved up in place. Not sure if I didn't get the Pistons all the way pushed in or what. Eventually got them in place. Rear brakes work great now and don't rub. Put a set of Screamin Eagle Fatshotz mufflers on which are same as Supertrapp Fatshots. Added Power Commander III with map for those and intake. Bike runs much better and sounds great. Not much louder than stock mufflers but much deeper better sound and bark when you open up the throttle. Next up: front brake pads. Hopefully they eliminate the squeal I'm getting.
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Mar 23, 2015 20:15
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Here4DaGangBang posted:I'd love to see some install pics on reflector-housed bikes, if these have a proper beam spread then I'd be very interested. Something tells me it's too good to be true, though. Eventually found some pics and while ADVrider has a lot of off-roaders who don't have to care about beam spread, it looks to me like these things bleed light further to the sides than is ideal. Great for visibility from the rider's perspective, not so great for other motorists, perhaps. Apparently the 3800 lumen version has a more proper cut off, too. The 3600 has none so a definite no-go for road use. Here is a Street with the 3600 lumens. Would love to see the beam pattern of the 3800 in these housings! http://www.triumph675.net/forum/showthread.php?t=158113#/forumsite/20890/topics/158113
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Mar 24, 2015 06:53
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The Bandit is ready for spring soon! -Pilot Road 4 rear tire -OEM fork seals & oil, rust brushed off forks and oiled -cam chain tensioner gasket -new Galfer braided lines on the way Things to do: 1. New stick coil 2. Pilot Road 4 front tire (1000 miles) 3. Ride the drat thing My fork was leaking so badly that it ended up soaking/leaking onto my front brake pads. They still work completely fine. Anything I should worry about?
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Mar 24, 2015 07:01
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Pads are contaminated, I'd toss them.
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Mar 24, 2015 07:34
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BlackMK4 posted:Pads are contaminated, I'd toss them. Yeap.
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Mar 24, 2015 09:11
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Changed the oil and gave it a good pre-season checkup. I also smeared some anime on it. 
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Mar 24, 2015 18:09
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Ordered a Madstat windscreen, new monokey locks and a Tusk T-10 handlebar to replace what I hosed up on yesterdays snowfall. The 303 fabric guard waterproofing spray came in, so the jacket gets washed today.
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Mar 24, 2015 19:27
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Replaced the float needle and housing on the carburetor. Changed oil again. Cleaned air filter.
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Mar 24, 2015 21:08
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The filth had receded enough by today that I felt compelled to start doing stuff. My Ninjette got a new chain and sprockets, and an oil change, and it is good to go. I'm also 30 pounds lighter than when I last rode it, and the difference is hilarious; I can actually tell it has some form of suspension, now. That plus new tires I stuck on there before winter give me the impression I'm riding a much better bike than the one I bought. I just made sure the tires had the right pressure and lubed the chain on my CBR today. Only 800 miles until the next service interval in the manual, so I'm just going to pound that out quickly before I do anything else. I also did a stupid thing. After I'd checked the tires and the chain I decided to take the CBR for a little loop in town to see if I even remembered how it works. I have one of those nifty Abba stands. By this point I'm sure anyone can guess I scratched the frame taking it off the stand. I was in too much of a hurry and got careless, and there are some marks on either side of the frame. What's the best way to get these touched up? I don't feel like Q-tipping barbecue paint on is the classiest idea, and of course the less obvious the touch-up is, the better. My only thought right now is I guess I'll call the dealership and ask if they can take care of it or hook me up with who can. I don't really like the attitude they take with me, though, and it makes me reluctant to actually contact them.   In related news, the stand is rad and everyone should have one. As long one doesn't behave as I did (like an rear end in a top hat) it won't gently caress anything up.  Innit pretty? I'm so bored and my car is no fun at all. Supposedly it'll be over 50 on Thursday, so I guess I am rescued.
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Mar 25, 2015 01:15
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BlackMK4 posted:Pads are contaminated, I'd toss them. Slavvy posted:Yeap. Thanks; just ordered some new EBC HH pads for the front. I guess the fork oil soaks into the pads past the surface then, yeah?
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Mar 25, 2015 01:34
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Once again tried and failed to get it up on the centre stand so I can start doing things to the chain. It's just impossible to use without the footpeg  (the footpeg is snapped/rusted off somehow, apparently this is super common on 125s yet replacement stands are not)Flip-flopping on whether to shell out for a used stand from a wreck, or pay slightly less for a shiny new paddock stand. 
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Mar 25, 2015 22:05
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Take it off and have some shop weld on a little foot peg for it.
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Mar 25, 2015 22:09
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Armchair Calvinist posted:Thanks; just ordered some new EBC HH pads for the front. I guess the fork oil soaks into the pads past the surface then, yeah? Yeah pad material is porous so it stays in there and fucks everything. I've heard of people blow-torching pads to boil all the fluid out but I've never tried it myself and it's kind of a waste of time anyway considering how cheap they are. clutchpuck posted:Take it off and have some shop weld on a little foot peg for it. Seriously this, just get them to weld a piece of rod there or something. It's a CB125 for god's sake, it's never going to be worth more than twenty bucks anyway.
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Mar 25, 2015 22:37
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Get Osram Nightbreakers (and hat tip again to whoever it was on CA who suggested them to me) - they put out a lot more light and are much closer to pure white than stock bulbs without having to mess about with LEDs. Weirdly I've got a chance to to demonstrate how good they are, after I had to replace my low bulb after it blew at the worst possible time, so I had to chuck the first thing I could get my hands on to get hom - taken on consecutive nights from my helmet camera. Before: Generic bulb from a petrol station (had a blue filter on it for some reason):  After: Osram Nightbreaker  They're really loving good. Also what I did to my ride on Sunday - replaced that bulb and stuffed a load of silica get packets in the bottom of the housing because somehow there's condensation in there and it had rusted the high-beam terminals. Also tempted the gently caress out of fate by giving it it's first wash since September. e: I realise it looks like the after picture is more overexposed than the before and there's possibly some truth to it but that really is how different the two are, or at least how I perceived them to be.
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Mar 25, 2015 23:39
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clutchpuck posted:Take it off and have some shop weld on a little foot peg for it. I'll probably try drilling through the convenient hole where the peg used to be and jamming a part-thread M12 bolt in there first, since I know where I'm at with that (and wouldn't know who to ask for a tiny welding job). Can't make it worse at any rate.
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Mar 26, 2015 00:20
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If you live anywhere near Portland, I could weld a new footpeg on there for you, wouldn't take more than a few minutes. In related news, I fabbed up one of a pair of front stands for my fizzer so I can yank the forks off and install new seals and fresh oil. There's small lugs on the front of the engine case on both sides, so I'm making a pair of stands to prop it up at the front when it's on the center stand.  And here is where the peg hooks in to support the bike:  Just need to weld up the second one for the other side tomorrow. Not pretty, but they don't really have to be.
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Mar 26, 2015 05:59
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Good god I wish I had a welder. I can do all this poo poo but I can't weld because I haven't got one and only have a rudimentary idea of how. So many useful things I could make 
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Mar 26, 2015 06:50
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Try brazing. Before I learned to weld / had a welder I used to braze everything. The plus is all you need is a £30-40 MAPP torch (or oxy/propane) from the hardware shop and some pre-fluxed brazing rods. The downside is that to get a strong bond you really want to take the care to fit the parts up very well before brazing them, where with welding you can just go ahead and fill those gaps in. Youtube will show you how. ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 10:10 on Mar 26, 2015 |
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Mar 26, 2015 10:08
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I was planning on powdercoating my Duc frame red... until I realized that buying a used red 999 frame w/ title off eBay is not only cheaper but I get the adjustable swingarm pivot, adjustable rearset mounts, and adjustable headtube angle that came on everything but the base 749. Woop. Upgrade in four ways for little money after I sell my clean title w/ frame.
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 19:45 on Mar 26, 2015 |
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Mar 26, 2015 19:39
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I managed to kill a tube today.  Great timing too since there isn't a spare to be had for at least 2 days and my Woodsman Cup is Saturday morning. Guess there's always next year... 
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Mar 26, 2015 19:48
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BlackMK4 posted:I was planning on powdercoating my Duc frame red... until I realized that buying a used red 999 frame w/ title off eBay is not only cheaper but I get the adjustable swingarm pivot, adjustable rearset mounts, and adjustable headtube angle that came on everything but the base 749. Woop. Upgrade in four ways for little money after I sell my clean title w/ frame. Won't you lose a lot on resale having a "rebuilt"bike versus a numbers matching?
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Mar 26, 2015 20:11
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Scrapez posted:Won't you lose a lot on resale having a "rebuilt"bike versus a numbers matching? It's just a track bike 
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Mar 26, 2015 20:50
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