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King of Gulps posted:I just realized a big advantage of hydronics, in certain situations: you can just put in pex relatively cheaply and worry about the actual heating part later (as per Motronic), as opposed to electric which is a large upfront that you can't retrofit. That is a good point. And I just found the solution to my under-BTU-capacity way-too-big-of-a-tank electric water heater that I've been running my radiant with (in the office - garage floor still not hooked up) on Craigslist for $350. A used tankless propane heater. Now instead of the 50+ gallons of antifreeze mixture I was going to need to properly freeze protect the system I'll only need about 6-10 gallons with everything hooked up.
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Mar 12, 2015 19:20
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Yeah the great thing about hydronic heating is you aren't limited to direct electric. Properly designed one could plug a number of sources into the system to work together. I've got hydronc floor heating in the house and a heat pump taking heat from a borehole, my electric bill was around 250 euros for january and february for our house. That includes all electrical use, heating, lighting, cooking (no gas), including my freestanding workshop and its machines and the heating of it, which uses a direct electric resistance element. I have a cousin with direct electric and IIRC he's said he pays like 400 a month in winter.... I think one nifty thing one could add to that is a solar collector to preheat the brine fluid coming from the borehole to the heat pump for a better COP. Though some kind of system to bypass it when the sun doesn't shine would be needed so it quickly gets complicated...
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Mar 13, 2015 07:15
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I'm currently going through the limbo of being happy to have my own tools and being sad about not needing to use my dad's shop as much. Helped a buddy build a window-well cat-patio for his client and ended up making a minor but big mistake. We needed to take a half inch off width wise and my dad, starting a big remodel, needed his chop saw back. Picked up a Rigid 15amp 12"single bevel miter at home depot in a pinch and I'm pretty impressed with the build of this thing. Don't know if I'll ever blindly use the laser guide but the quick vice is handy and the miter detention bypass thumb wheel is brilliant. A lifetime service agreement is nice too. Now I need rigid to hurry up and make a fixed/plunger based router as that's the next tool on my list. I'll probably go with Bosch. Build a thing -> Get paid -> Buy tool -> Repeat... if only it were that simple.
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Mar 14, 2015 07:10
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I'm coming to the internet to tell me what to buy. Just bought a house, and with warmer weather coming up, I'll be tackling the usual inside and outside projects. I don't have a drill. I'm thinking I need one. I stopped at Home Depot for something unrelated and stopped in the tools section, and basically shrugged and walked away. There's way too many different ones out there, and I have no idea what's good, what I need, and what's way overkill. Drill/impact driver package? 12v, 18v, 20v, brushless, holy poo poo. And of course 30 different brands. Just tell me what to use my credit card on.
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Mar 14, 2015 09:26
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If I were starting fresh today, I'd probably buy this M12 combo
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Mar 14, 2015 14:15
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Panthrax posted:I'm coming to the internet to tell me what to buy. Just bought a house, and with warmer weather coming up, I'll be tackling the usual inside and outside projects. I don't have a drill. I'm thinking I need one. I stopped at Home Depot for something unrelated and stopped in the tools section, and basically shrugged and walked away. There's way too many different ones out there, and I have no idea what's good, what I need, and what's way overkill. Drill/impact driver package? 12v, 18v, 20v, brushless, holy poo poo. And of course 30 different brands. Just tell me what to use my credit card on. For cordless, go with whatever brand you have already. Batteries aren't interchangeable between brands. Other than that the question is what do you need to drill in to. For structural reinforced concrete you'll want a hammer drill that can put out a few joules in impact. For cement and brick you can make due with a regular drill that has a hammer setting. If all you need to drill is wood and gypsum or sheet rock, no hammering is needed at all. Personally I prefer my drills to be corded, but I hate cordless tools in general. I've got two drills both corded, one of them is an entry level drill that can hammer (€50) the other is an sds hammer drill, the €30 Aldi special. I also have a cordless impact driver, which is my only cordless tool at the moment. One of them cutesy blue Bosch units, all it does is drive screws and bolts, but it does so much better than any drill driver I have used. Also get keyed chucks if you can, they are much better than those grip-n-twist chucks. All in all I've spent maybe €150 between the three tools. If you want I can look up the model numbers when I get home, to give you an idea what to look for.
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Mar 14, 2015 14:20
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Panthrax posted:I'm coming to the internet to tell me what to buy. Just bought a house, and with warmer weather coming up, I'll be tackling the usual inside and outside projects. I don't have a drill. I'm thinking I need one. I stopped at Home Depot for something unrelated and stopped in the tools section, and basically shrugged and walked away. There's way too many different ones out there, and I have no idea what's good, what I need, and what's way overkill. Drill/impact driver package? 12v, 18v, 20v, brushless, holy poo poo. And of course 30 different brands. Just tell me what to use my credit card on. Go with a quick charge 18v lithium set from any of the bigger brands. I like Milwaukee's quality and Rigid's lifetime service agreement.
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Mar 14, 2015 16:57
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Panthrax posted:Just tell me what to use my credit card on. For cordless pick a brand that has a crap ton of tools that use the same battery. I've always been a Makita fan but there are other good brands like Milwaukee, Dewalt. Bosch is a good brand but I don't know if they have a lot of variety. If money is not a thing, there is Festool. I own an 18v Porter Cable set and it's good, I have no major complaints (except I hate the 5" circular saw which sprays wood chips at your face). I got a ridiculously cheap deal on the set which is why I bought it. The cordless tools I use the most are drill and reciprocating saw (great for demolition and pruning). When it comes to corded tools, just buy whatever is best for the buck. I have a Black & Decker drill that is probably 20 years old and still works as good as new. Also, cordless tools get asked and answered every 3 or 4 pages so flip back for a lot of discussion on sets.
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Mar 14, 2015 23:05
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Seconding Makita. They last forever.
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Mar 15, 2015 01:43
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Third on the Makita. Huge fan of all their cordless gear.
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Mar 15, 2015 02:30
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It's highly likely that I go to Home Depot or Lowes tomorrow to buy a jigsaw (or suggest otherwise, I want to cut rectangles, etc into sheets of plywood) so I don't have to use my coping saw for everything. All my current tools are corded but I don't have to buy corded. Just buying for home use, any recommendations?
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Mar 15, 2015 04:14
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Totally TWISTED posted:It's highly likely that I go to Home Depot or Lowes tomorrow to buy a jigsaw (or suggest otherwise, I want to cut rectangles, etc into sheets of plywood) so I don't have to use my coping saw for everything. All my current tools are corded but I don't have to buy corded. Just buying for home use, any recommendations? I got the Porter Cable 18v cordless jigsaw at lowes and I love it.
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Mar 15, 2015 04:53
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Totally TWISTED posted:It's highly likely that I go to Home Depot or Lowes tomorrow to buy a jigsaw (or suggest otherwise, I want to cut rectangles, etc into sheets of plywood) so I don't have to use my coping saw for everything. All my current tools are corded but I don't have to buy corded. Just buying for home use, any recommendations? Jigsaws aren't very good at cutting straight, generally making long straight cuts is easier with a circular saw.
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Mar 15, 2015 04:54
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Deedle posted:Jigsaws aren't very good at cutting straight, generally making long straight cuts is easier with a circular saw. I need to have the rectangle enclosed though and i don't think i can control a circular that well. Any guides to do this?
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Mar 15, 2015 14:49
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Seconding that jigsaws suck for making straight cuts, however it sucks less if the material is thin and you make plenty of relief cuts. A scroll saw would be ideal for this type of thing, assuming your material is small enough to maneuver in a scroll saw. I've never attempted a plunge cut with a circular saw, but Jane makes it look easy: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5rz0OgrP3Zk
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Mar 15, 2015 14:58
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You could just use the jigsaw and cut short of the line, then go back with a plane or something to clean the line up. Dunno how well plywood takes to a plane, though, especially the edge.
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Mar 15, 2015 15:12
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Crotch Fruit posted:Seconding that jigsaws suck for making straight cuts, however it sucks less if the material is thin and you make plenty of relief cuts. A scroll saw would be ideal for this type of thing, assuming your material is small enough to maneuver in a scroll saw. Hmm I think I'll try this at least. If I have to buy another sheet of plywood vs. the cost of a jigsaw it's probably worth the shot to try.
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Mar 15, 2015 15:20
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the spyder posted:Third on the Makita. Huge fan of all their cordless gear. Yup. My cordless set has seen heavy homeowner use for 6 years, and I'm still on the first batteries. I bought a spare to go in the saw when I need the drill/impact, the grinder, vacuum (it is awesome for small cleanups, like a dustbuster with a long detachable floor wand), sander, and some other stuff. Much love for Makita. However, I'm being tempted by Milwaukee's expanding ling of brushless stuff, and some seriously cool stuff (bandsaw, PEX Tools, etc).
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Mar 16, 2015 03:15
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Couldn't you just use a straight edge with the jigsaw? Please say yes because I plan on doing this for a cutout.
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Mar 16, 2015 03:39
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Doctor Zero posted:Couldn't you just use a straight edge with the jigsaw? Please say yes because I plan on doing this for a cutout. You can but a jigsaw blade can have some lateral flex if you cut to fast or through a knot. So take your time and go slow.
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Mar 16, 2015 04:45
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Atticus_1354 posted:go slow. This, and don't waste time with dull blades. They don't cost all that much. A dull blade will go where it wants, not where you want.
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Mar 17, 2015 01:32
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One Legged Ninja posted:This, and don't waste time with dull blades. They don't cost all that much. A dull blade will go where it wants, not where you want. Also I feel like an idiot because I thought my jigsaw sucked or jigsaws in general were incapable of making clean cuts, then I found an aggressiveness dial on mine. Setting it to zero suddenly made it cut nice and clean without the horrible tear out I always got before. I think the aggressiveness setting makes the blade move in an ellipse instead of just up and down. I guess that makes it cut a bit faster or something? Anyway, it's nice because now I feel like I can actually make things with curves rather than just using table saw cuts.
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Mar 18, 2015 05:47
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Squibbles posted:Also I feel like an idiot because I thought my jigsaw sucked or jigsaws in general were incapable of making clean cuts, then I found an aggressiveness dial on mine. Setting it to zero suddenly made it cut nice and clean without the horrible tear out I always got before. I think the aggressiveness setting makes the blade move in an ellipse instead of just up and down. I guess that makes it cut a bit faster or something? Anyway, it's nice because now I feel like I can actually make things with curves rather than just using table saw cuts. Pretty sure what you're referring to is the knob that adjusts tension on the blade, which will either keep it tighter for straighter cuts, or allow it to be loose for your scrolling cuts. The only other adjustment on any jigsaw I've ever used has been for the RPM limit of the motor.
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Mar 18, 2015 14:42
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metallicaeg posted:Pretty sure what you're referring to is the knob that adjusts tension on the blade, which will either keep it tighter for straighter cuts, or allow it to be loose for your scrolling cuts. The only other adjustment on any jigsaw I've ever used has been for the RPM limit of the motor. It's the orbital control, most jigsaws have it now. I don't know how you would adjust tension on a jigsaw blade since it is only held by one end.
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Mar 18, 2015 15:23
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Elston Gunn posted:It's the orbital control, most jigsaws have it now. I don't know how you would adjust tension on a jigsaw blade since it is only held by one end. Yeah, if you zoom in on the first picture here: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-6-1-Amp-Variable-Speed-Orbital-Jigsaw-with-Speed-Match-JS651L/203146378 Up near the top of the handle is a little dial that controls the speed but down on the side at the front is the Orbital control. I foolishly tried to follow the images it gives you for what setting to use for which material but even having it set to 1 instead of zero made it cause terrible tearout on plywood or anything else I tried to cut.
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Mar 18, 2015 15:29
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My festool jigsaw has two little tungsten carbide feet that help keep the blade aligned and you definitely need to adjust tension or it'll either overheat or get wobbly. You adjust it with an allen key though. It also has a little plastic insert thingy that really minimizes tearout.
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Mar 18, 2015 15:33
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Elston Gunn posted:It's the orbital control, most jigsaws have it now. I don't know how you would adjust tension on a jigsaw blade since it is only held by one end.
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Mar 18, 2015 16:06
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 Finally retrieved the planer from it's previous home and hooked it up to the dust collector in my shop. No dust at all escapes this thing, it's fantastic. Only bad thing is I had forgotten how much you have to fight with this planer to avoid snipe.
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Mar 18, 2015 20:21
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Totally TWISTED posted:Hmm I think I'll try this at least. If I have to buy another sheet of plywood vs. the cost of a jigsaw it's probably worth the shot to try. Update, made two plunge cut rectangles, two to go. Following the video makes it really easy (at least for the loose tolerances of a chicken coop).
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Mar 23, 2015 00:53
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swampface posted:Finally retrieved the planer from it's previous home and hooked it up to the dust collector in my shop. No dust at all escapes this thing, it's fantastic. Only bad thing is I had forgotten how much you have to fight with this planer to avoid snipe. Would anyone else call this a Thicknesser? Or am I mixed up.
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Mar 23, 2015 14:02
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Looks like the same model as mine. I spent a long time adjusting the tables to minimize snipe but it's impossible to eliminate it. pazrs posted:Would anyone else call this a Thicknesser? Or am I mixed up. Just depends on where you live. I usually hear them called thickness planers, planer, or less commonly thicknesser. As opposed to a jointer which is similar but designed for making wood flat and edges perpendicular.
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Mar 23, 2015 17:19
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wormil posted:Looks like the same model as mine. I spent a long time adjusting the tables to minimize snipe but it's impossible to eliminate it. Yep that's what I figured out. Those hand planes are still useful after all!
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Mar 23, 2015 17:25
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Lee valley is having a sale where you get 15% of anything you spend on Veritas stuff back in gift cards if you need an excuse to buy tools that comes with a built in excuse to buy tools.
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Mar 27, 2015 15:33
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Man this sucks europe, why don't get any worm drive circular saws 
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Mar 28, 2015 12:09
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His Divine Shadow posted:Man this sucks europe, why don't get any worm drive circular saws They're also too small to be able to cut a 25mm board. They're still sort of tempting, as they are €100 plunge saws that will work fine up to 18mm boards.
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Mar 28, 2015 15:46
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What I'm considering is buying a 110V transformer, I could get a 3.3kw one for £65 shipped from the UK, though the euro is weak in relation right now so it's not the best time to buy. That'd allow me to get US tools, they'd be at 50hz instead of 60hz but I hear its no big deal from people who do this already. It'd also allow me to buy router motors only, here you can basically only get them as integrated plunge routers.
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Mar 28, 2015 17:40
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I'm looking to make my own composting barrel following the instructions here: http://www.wikihow.com/Build-a-Tumbling-Composter This'll be my first real project, and as such I don't have many tools. I've got an 18v cordless drill, but no bit sets, and a hammer. I'm thinking I'll need a few drill bit sets and probably a reciprocating saw to cut the holes in the barrel? We've also got a ton of stumps and long branches in the yard, including one that's about 6 feet long and up to 10 inches or so in diameter that I'd like to cut up. Would something like the item below be fine for home use, if I'm planning to do most of the cutting inside my garage, or should I go for something nicer? I hear mixed things about Harbor Freight so I don't know yet what is good to pick up there and what I should look for elsewhere. Assume the price is ~20% lower than listing. http://www.harborfreight.com/9-amp-professional-variable-speed-reciprocating-saw-69066.html GobiasIndustries fucked around with this message at 18:49 on Mar 28, 2015 |
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Mar 28, 2015 18:46
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I have a Ryboi wood bandsaw, can I use it to cut some sheet metal? I want to cut a piece just thick enough to hold it's shape for a panel about a foot square in size. Ideally I would be using aluminum or steel just depending on what I can get a hold of.
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Mar 28, 2015 19:13
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GobiasIndustries posted:I'm looking to make my own composting barrel following the instructions here: You can do the holes in the barrel with your drill and some hole saws, which are basically cylindrical saws that can chuck into a drill. Just make certain you drill a pilot hole first with a normal drill bit, because hole saws can be really hard to aim properly. quote:We've also got a ton of stumps and long branches in the yard, including one that's about 6 feet long and up to 10 inches or so in diameter that I'd like to cut up. Would something like the item below be fine for home use, if I'm planning to do most of the cutting inside my garage, or should I go for something nicer? I hear mixed things about Harbor Freight so I don't know yet what is good to pick up there and what I should look for elsewhere. Assume the price is ~20% lower than listing. A chainsaw is really the proper tool for cutting up branches and logs. You can get a small electric chainsaw that'll get those jobs done for about the same price as a reciprocating saw, but it'll do a far better job.
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Mar 28, 2015 19:59
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Crotch Fruit posted:I have a Ryboi wood bandsaw, can I use it to cut some sheet metal? I want to cut a piece just thick enough to hold it's shape for a panel about a foot square in size. Ideally I would be using aluminum or steel just depending on what I can get a hold of. Probably, yes, if Jimmy Diresta is anything to go by. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gA4lpsEWM5k
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Mar 28, 2015 20:58
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